01-30-2017, 04:37 PM | #81 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: south shore Ma
Posts: 803
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
Ok, I kinda thought so. I was hoping for something a bit bigger. Its great to have parts that dont take 3 weeks to show up now. Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH Fierce using Tapatalk |
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01-30-2017, 10:07 PM | #82 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Usa
Posts: 17
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
I ordered the jeep kit and an extra esc. I plan to use some orlandoo esc's and motors for a bruiser dozer. I burnt up my first orlandoo esc today so that's a bummer. I guess while I was stuffing everything under the f150 cab something touched and burnt a square off of the esc so it's toast now.
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02-04-2017, 06:42 PM | #83 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: West Michigan
Posts: 259
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
Now that I have my rig done, do I need a low voltage alarm, or will it beep or stop when it reaches like 3 volts per cell?
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02-04-2017, 07:03 PM | #84 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: south shore Ma
Posts: 803
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
I dont run one. Not sure if it has cut off or not. I just stop when I notice any drop in power. Normally its at 3.2v per cell at that point. Might not be the best/safest thing to do but its been working fine for me. Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH Fierce using Tapatalk |
02-04-2017, 07:49 PM | #85 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: West Michigan
Posts: 259
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
Cool I'll just run it like that then. The batteries are cheap anyway if I toast one
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02-04-2017, 07:52 PM | #86 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: south shore Ma
Posts: 803
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
Thats what I figured too Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH Fierce using Tapatalk |
02-19-2017, 11:23 AM | #87 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Vienna Austria
Posts: 555
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
Hi, I am finishing my Orlandoo Ford right now, canopy still in painting progress and did not yet install the LEDs. My pics of wiring. Will post pics of the Jeep Renegade, soon. I like the Orlandoo, but do not know why they used the "normal large" servo plugs and the big red JST plugs. I tried and found, this will not work for me. I changed the red JST plugs to JST PH2 plugs (motor) and JST PH3 plugs (battery), and soldered two JST 1.0 female plugs to the ESC, which will be used for front- and rear LEDs. I also changed the servo wires and soldered the servo wires directly to the boards. Also included the sound module board to this (throttle from ESC to sound module board and then to the rx. I used a "normal" (not micro) RX (Hobbyking/Flysky), but removed the case and removed the "normal" servo plugs. I also soldered an On/Off plug to the ESC and put it to the bottom plate fom inside, switch can be used from outside (similar to Mini-Zs, at the bottom - made a small opening). So I do not have any problems putting all the stuff including the "large" loudspeaker under the canopy. On the pics i have "only" a 200 mAh 2s battery inside, but I could also use larger ones up to 450 mAh (have a ton of those batteries 2s from 180 - 450 mAh with UMX = JST PH plugs for my small helicopters and planes). I highly recommend removing the big plugs and also the "thick" servo wires and using smaller/thinner equipment. Walter |
02-19-2017, 11:30 AM | #88 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: West Michigan
Posts: 259
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
Looks good. I would recommend covering the boards in silicone or heat shrink to keep anything from frying the boards
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02-19-2017, 11:49 AM | #89 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Vienna Austria
Posts: 555
| Re: Orlandoo wiring Quote:
no - I insulated the boards with 3M tape (so no danger of shortcut) - against each other and of course to the car. But I do not want to heatshrink those, because I need to be able to i.e. bind the RX to another TX, want to program the sound board (waiting for USB dongle), need to be able to get to the LED plugs... If the 3 boards would have been "3 single boards" only connected by wires and plugs, I would have used heatshrink. But because they are connected to each other by soldered wires, I wont. Walter BTW: Found I put on the back-canopy wrong for the pic ;) - everything fits even better in the correct direction. Last edited by donaldsneffe; 02-19-2017 at 11:56 AM. | |
03-04-2017, 11:51 AM | #90 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: south shore Ma
Posts: 803
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
Just got a new project today. The wheel base is to long for the jeep so im thinking about getting the f150 kit. The width is pretty close, might have to figure out some wheel wideners but i want the tires to tuck into the fenders. There is so much detail on this kit. Im hoping to get the interior in there. This body will at least give me more room then the jeep for electronics. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk |
03-27-2017, 06:43 PM | #91 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 3,643
| Re: Orlandoo wiring So almost finished with mine, and I'm also getting pulsing. Loosened the gearbox a little on both axles, and that seemed to help, but it's still pulsing. How long does it take to wear these gears in and make the pulsing go away?
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03-27-2017, 06:54 PM | #92 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: south shore Ma
Posts: 803
| Re: Orlandoo wiring
I havent run mine much at all really. I think the pulsing was mostly gone last time i ran it. I will get it out one of these days and see how bad it is. Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk |
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