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Old 11-15-2009, 10:07 PM   #341
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OK i'm going from a AX10 to a berg (Bully 2.2)
here is what i have now: DX3R and 3100, 1-fxr, 1-bec, 2-45t motors
im going to buy a Bully 2.2
http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=2199

and put my stuff above, on it

my ? is, do i need the punk rc dig or the mini servo that switches the 2 switches....do these two, do the same thing? or do i need both

when the switch is neutral you have 4x4 and when you switch to one switch, it kills that motor = dig- it locks those wheels up right

also, do i need another bec for the second motor? or do i even need a bec for this set-up?

I would search this transformation over a little more but the wife says we have the funds, so get it now if you want it........so i want to get it before she changes her mind
thanks for any help
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:26 AM   #342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prusik333 View Post
ok i'm going from a ax10 to a berg (bully 2.2)
here is what i have now: Dx3r and 3100, 1-fxr, 1-bec, 2-45t motors
im going to buy a bully 2.2
http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=2199

and put my stuff above, on it

my ? Is, do i need the punk rc dig or the mini servo that switches the 2 switches....do these two, do the same thing? Or do i need both
they both do the same. I have only used the switches. The punk dig looks more reliable and seems to work very well for a lot of people.

when the switch is neutral you have 4x4 and when you switch to one switch, it kills that motor = dig- it locks those wheels up right
correct.

also, do i need another bec for the second motor? Or do i even need a bec for this set-up?
only 1 bec is needed.

i would search this transformation over a little more but the wife says we have the funds, so get it now if you want it........so i want to get it before she changes her mind
Thanks for any help
hth
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Old 11-16-2009, 09:22 AM   #343
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Yeah The punk dig is definetly the thing to get for a moa
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Old 11-16-2009, 04:24 PM   #344
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thanks a bunch guys
i just want to make sure on the punk rc

When i use my DX3R and flip the switch one way the brakes lock up one set of tires and the other way i can burn out so to speak right.......thats front tires or rear it works
Thanks again, this is a great thread
I'm off to buy and then lots of practice


Also, as heavy as the Bully is, would you sugset i put any weight in the wheels?
thanks in advance

Last edited by prusik333; 11-16-2009 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:47 PM   #345
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Originally Posted by prusik333 View Post
Also, as heavy as the Bully is, would you sugset i put any weight in the wheels?
thanks in advance
Thats all on your preference. I personally run alot of weight up front, and very light in the rear. That helps the truck suck to the rock, instead of wanting to tip backward. On the other hand a lighter truck is more likely to sidehill better, and the tires wont fold over as bad under a small bind. I have never ran a light truck, so I cant really tell you how they perform
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Old 11-17-2009, 03:22 AM   #346
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ok i got a newb question.. i've had my AX10 rtc for 12 days now.. i've replaced tons and am happy with it..

Well i came into possession of a Novak 55t and was wondering how far you can advance the timing safely? Or what side affects will you have? i know the faster you advance it the less torque you have.. but i would like to counteract the "faster in reverse" problem with these axials.. I think i have it tuned so it's equal both directions but just wondering if its safe for the motor.. (I am about to buy a new esc when i get paid so this is a temporary fix)

Link to my Build
311WJ's AX-10

Last edited by 311WJ; 11-17-2009 at 03:25 AM.
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:04 AM   #347
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I think we will see if someone else can help ya there buddy. I dont know a darn thing about tuning motors or whatever. I will get TLTryan to take a look at the thread, he would know ;)
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:11 AM   #348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColbyTheKid View Post
I think we will see if someone else can help ya there buddy. I dont know a darn thing about tuning motors or whatever. I will get TLTryan to take a look at the thread, he would know ;)
Ok thanks! I'm going crawling with k9popo in 2-3 hours and he'll check it out.. I just don't wanna fry it up so any advice will help!
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:16 PM   #349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 311WJ View Post
ok i got a newb question.. i've had my AX10 rtc for 12 days now.. i've replaced tons and am happy with it..

Well i came into possession of a Novak 55t and was wondering how far you can advance the timing safely? Or what side affects will you have? i know the faster you advance it the less torque you have.. but i would like to counteract the "faster in reverse" problem with these axials.. I think i have it tuned so it's equal both directions but just wondering if its safe for the motor.. (I am about to buy a new esc when i get paid so this is a temporary fix)

Link to my Build
311WJ's AX-10
I ran about 7 degrees of advance motor timing on my Berg and it worked well. To much advance timing will cause excessive brush wear when you drive in reverse.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:06 PM   #350
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New Berg driver here. Just built this rig, it's a 4.0 chassis, punk dig, tekin fxr, 45t's, cc bec. Im running a 13t pinion in the front, and a 12t in the rear. It still wants to clod stall when starting off on steep climbs. What is the best driver input to use in this situation??
Her is a pic.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:09 PM   #351
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Also it has limited big bore shocks with losi white springs, and I contoll it with a DX3R ,if any of that makes a difference?
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:12 PM   #352
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Whatsup Kyle? Glad to see you made your way over. In a situation where your rig is clod stalling, and the only other option you seem to have is goose the shit out of it, just see if you cant lock the rear and let the front try to pull the rig up. If that fails, then get the wheels spinning at a low Idle speed, then bump it just a bit more than that a few times and see if it wants to hook. You could also slowly increase the throttle if the rear just wont budge, but to do that you need to have that slow idle speed. If all else fails, nail the shit out of it and hope for the best
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:15 PM   #353
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The suspension plays a small part in the stall, but thats all on your preference. A little bit more stiffer suspension in the rear limits the pressure the rear of the rig has, because your rig compresses a bit when the weight slides back, but your weight in the rear is also something else to take into consideration.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:21 PM   #354
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I can lighten the rear up a little bit, I still have a few weights on the wheels left over from my shafty. I wanted to move the batt. to the front links, but it's really tight up there and my batt. actually hits the top links when mounted on the bottom links. So I'm running it on the KK batt. tray for now.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:24 PM   #355
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see about putting the battery on the skid plate. I did that in my 3.5 and it worked great!
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:34 PM   #356
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Well, after the dig switch, fxr, bec, and all the wires, the skid plate has no vacancy!!
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:35 PM   #357
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Sure it does Let me see if i cant find a pic of my truck when i ran the battery on the skid.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:39 PM   #358
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K, this was my Zero T, but I did the same thing on this truck:




Basically, use the dig tray to mount the esc, bec, and receiver, then run the dig under the tray, on top of the battery. I velcro'd my dig switch to my battery, then my battery to the skid. Its up to you, but it worked really well!
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:35 PM   #359
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one more ?
Bully axle plastic covers.........that are moldded underneath the axle to slid over rocks better.
not sure of the proper name or who sells them, tryed the search in the venders section but nothing came up.......i'm sure im typeing the wrong name is all:?
thanks in advance
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Old 11-20-2009, 11:20 PM   #360
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Not sure on that one man. Havent gone that far into accessories for my truck yet
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