need help to get on right path

[hellbounder]

There's a whole lot of t cases out there besides rc4wd . You can make anything fit into anything and work with anything with a little work .

[808eng_rc]

pump the brakes.....what do yall know about jun fac can't find an english website but they got a sweet setup with that sawback

nvm my bad spoke to soon found website helps if you spell it right

but what are the interference issues on axle says planetary tcase only don't know why that would matter that's what I been stressed out about thing like that make no sense

[sickcivic95]

Originally Posted by 808eng_rc

an rc4wd dealer in so cal didn't even know but on the site it clearly says only compatible with certain trans I just didn't wanna buy a tcase with out it being the proper one even if I liked it better unless there was a custom fix

no where on the site do I see it saying it only works with a certain trans, they make recommendations to use theirs... Of course... Either way all you need to look at is the input shaft size and if its the same as the output shaft of the trans your running then any driveshaft will bolt up... Well as long as it uses same size pin openings. Most are Usually 5mm some are 6mm so just double check that and your fine. I run d40s on one of my trucks and I've had them on an r2 trans and killer transfer case, a tamiya 3 speed, and an axial trans

I did after I posted the reply find a reasnable batter placement with a 2c on either side of the tcase between frame rails with a y connector
any one know of a b.a.s setup for yota or trex or other rc4wd axles haven't found any so doesn't mean there not out there jusy means I need help if any one knows

sorry I don't know what b.a.s. Stands for so I can't help on this one.

I don't doubt there are helpfull threads but I honestly can't seem to find them thanks for the lead on bodies tho I searched like 16websites and they didn't have deminsions but ill stick with 1:10 thanks for that
how do I keep the posts under body and be able to clip in pins I do remember seeing a big thread about this a while back but can't seem to find it

most toy rc aren't specific to a certain scale, even though they say 1:10 or 1:12 many times their not. Search the body/paint section and you'll find many dimension on the bodies out there. To mount your body use rare earth magnets, super strong and better than Velcro, just glue them to the body and chassis and you are all set. Velcro would be second if there is no easy place for mounting magnets.


and I don't have access to these classifieds tho but the hunt continues

buy a star I highly recommend it not only for the classifieds but to support the site and the vendors and their are a ton of giveaways every year, especially around the holidays. Who can say no to free schwag.....well 20.00 schwag......

--Dan

[hellbounder]

Most of my stuff comes from lowes or Home Depot . If they don't have what you need local . I order from metalsdepot.com or mcmastercarr .

[808eng_rc]

I can't post the link but it explicitly says only use with such and suck transfer and transmissions but ill just run what I find on ebay that's water tight and low gearing ill cut chop and rebuild wen I fing an issue

hell bounder were would I find small metal material to make cross member for tcase if needed don't know were flat bar that size would be not any hobby shop I've ever seen

yea I know that site cool ill write that down

also earlier b.a.s behind axle steering conversion

[Johnnysplits]

Check this place out: Online Metal Store | Small Quantity Metal Orders | Metal Cutting, Sales & Shipping | Buy Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Stainless | Metal Product Guides at OnlineMetals.com

[sickcivic95]

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

Check this place out: Online Metal Store | Small Quantity Metal Orders | Metal Cutting, Sales & Shipping | Buy Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Stainless | Metal Product Guides at OnlineMetals.com

Ill second online metals, its a division of Thyssen Krupp who is a world wide metal seller with great quality metal. I buy from them all the time for personal and business use. They may not have some of the smaller dimensioned items we use but for steel, delrin,aluminum, etc they rock. They can cut stock down to pretty much any size you need


Also what axle are you talking about? All of their axles show recommendations but not MUST use
Unless it specifically notes it. These are excerpts from their pages and don't apply to all models I'm just using for examples. These are all recommendations for them to push more of their own product, other than the last one and that's explainable.


Transmission:

This axle is designed to work with our R2 Transmission, Planetary Reduction Tranny, or Transfer Case

This axle is designed to work with R2 black transmission (Z-U0009), R2 Silver (Z-U0010), R2 2 Speed (Z-U0011) or AX10 transmission.

You do have to purchase a special Punisher Shaft II with 5mm holes. This is because of a different output shaft size as I mentioned earlier.


Also most guys refer to the steering mod as B.T.A. -- Behind The Axle, hence my confusion.


--Dan

[demonut]

Originally Posted by GiJoe

I know braising has been covered, but the best set-up i've tried is a Turbo Torch and B-Tank (B-Tank is just a small Acetylene Tank.) No oxygen tank required, The turbo "Tip" pulls O2 from the air. It makes a very loud whistling noise, but gets very hot quick!

Mostly used by HVAC Techs and Plumbers. I bought my whole set-up with full tank used on Craigslist for $100. The guy even gave me a quick braising lesson!

here is torch i use:
BNIB TurboTorch WSF 3 Torch Kit Sof Flame for B Tank Air Acetylene 0386 0089 | eBay


this is flux coated rod:
New Hot Max 22068 3 32 inch by 18 inch Flux Coated Brazing Rod | eBay

Any welding supply such as Linde, Gas House or AGA can hook you up as well. Just tell them you need to braise 3/16 mild steel rod.

Not trying to steal from this thread, how do you like that torch? I'm currently using a mapp/oxygen disposable torch and costs about as much to run as my 3/4 ton truck.. I've been thinking of picking one of those up from my supply house but didn't know how small (fine) you could get the flame down too. I'm a plumber and we have b tanks at the shop but they haven't been used in Years. I use a smaller torch that runs off just mapp which allowse to sweat up to 2" copper but will not get hot enough for brazing.

[GiJoe]

I love the Turbo Torch! Not sure the part number, but I use the smallest tip available for the torch. I can braze a joint literally twice as fast with a turbo torch as I can with MAPP.

I keep a candle lit on my workbench for quick lighting. Also learned to keep the flux coated rod in the flame to pre-heat while heating up the metal. Once red hot, the pre-heated rod flows within seconds.

[808eng_rc]

any one have off the cuff links to some body dealers....I can't use search with my phone and its been rough going the 80 some odd pages of threads

let me rephrase that HARDBODY trying to get away from the common bodies

[GRIMGREG]

If you want a hard body that isn't the Tamiya or RC4WD offerings, you are going to be looking at toy grade RCs. In that case you'll buy the whole toy RC, take the body off it and set the rest aside. The only way to find those same bodies sold as just the body is to go on EBAY or the classifieds here. Try Amazon and flip through the toys. I will say, even then most of the bodies are Jeeps or Ford pickups.

Otherwise, buy a bunch of styrene and start learning to scratch build, then you can make anything you want. One nice thing with styrene is it is cheap, so you aren't out hundreds of dollars if it goes wrong.

[THX_138]

I highly suggest you find a computer and spend some time with the search function and a keyboard.


Lets do this.

Post some pictures of your current RC and ask a specific question to match what you post for the picture.

Your comments and questions are so scattered and mixed its confusing at best.

Sounds like you need some actual hands on time with your build and then come back with a specific question as each situation arises.