"New to crawling; what to buy?" Guide

[StomperCrawler]

Dear Crawler n00b,

First off, regarding pictures showing an "update your account to enable 3rd party hosting" error message: it's not a problem with your account or RCC, but rather that PhotoB(S?)uckit committed hosting suicide. You can get around this on your desktop computer by using this "Photobuckit Hotlink Fix" plugin for Chrome browser:

https://goo.gl/XSJJfY

... and on your mobile by installing Firefox from the Play Store plus this add-on:

https://goo.gl/uDeiTm

Now that's fixed, if you are planning to crawl competitively ("comp-crawling" or just plain "comp"), check with your local crawling organization on what vehicles (pronounced "rigs") they run/compete with. You don't want to spend $500-1,000 only to find out that your local club doesn't run that particular class. If you wanna know what clubs are in your area, click: here.

That being said, if you're reading this and new to crawling, or RC (Radio Control) in-general, below are some tips to help you choose your first shaft-driven (i.e. "shafty") scale crawler (AKA "scaler"); note that this is the opposite of a Motor-On-Axle ("MOA") crawler.

If you're having trouble deciding between RTR (Ready-To-Run) and kit version, click here.

Let's say you decide that you want to build it yourself with your choice of components, probably the first things you'll need besides the rig kit are:

1. Radio - Transmitter (TX) & Receiver (RX)
2. Steering servo - Metal Gear & Torquey (think POWER!!!)
3. Motor & ESC - Usage-dependent

Click on the motor & ESC link (in #3 just above) to help you decide which ones are best for you, then come back here to find a radio, external BEC, battery pack, and charger..

Note: Only a brushed setup is recommended for durability with water, mud, etc. & the best slow-crawling experience. If you want to be able to go fast as well, you may use up to a 6s lipo battery (3-4s recommended) with the BR-XL ESC (link below) to give yourself a larger range of speeds.

Perhaps you would prefer to buy a pre-built RTR rig (aka "stocker"). In most cases you'll still need to purchase:

1. External BEC - here's why
2. Battery Packs and
3. Battery Charger

...plus a small subset of tools to help you keep your rig movin'; here's an idea of what to get for maintenance.

Most of the purchasing links below are to vendors who support this website (RPP, Holmes, etc.), unless they either don't carry the part or its equivalent, or they charge significantly more than the competition. Bear in mind that purchasing multiple items from one shop may save on shipping and/or afford you the use of a larger discount coupon. Please note that these prices may be outdated.

1. Discount Codes - RPP Hobbies - Coupons and Tower Hobbies; note that some manufacturers do not allow coupons to be used :( but you may be able to earn eCash at Tower:check here
2. $20 - Castle 10a BEC - reviewed
3. Rig (or RIGS if you want to make it a family hobby):
   A. $299 - RTR - Axial 1/10 SCX10 (OriGinal or OG) Deadbolt - 4WD, 2.4ghz, includes upgraded AE-5 waterproof 2-3s-capable ESC, dual-slipper clutch, WB8 drive-shafts, 150oz metal-gear servo, light bar (w/o lights).
   B. Varie$ - More crawlers to choose from. Remember to choose the scale size (1/10, 1/16, 1/24, etc) you want & note that some of the other stuff below is specific to the 1/10th scale crawlers (motors, batteries, etc.). If I had the funds, I'd go with the $400 Vaterra Ascender, $410 SCX10 II, or $450 TRX-4 since they're already upgraded out-of-the-box.
   C. $146/200/280 - For those of us in the poor house (where I am now, for instance), or not wanting to invest much before the addiction sets in (it won't take long!), there are the $146 Everest 10 and the soon-to-be-released $200/280 Everest Gen7, available from Tower Hobbies who even offers an easy 3-payment plan. Note that out-of-the box the E10 requires at least two upgrades: $14 Axial ax30500 "iron cross" lockers and $9 Traxxas 1953 driveshafts).
   D. Buy used from RC Crawler Classifieds; read up on how to do this here.
   
   A ton of info may be found on these and other rigs here (my favorites are listed by name):
   
   
   • Redcat Everest 10 - entry-level crawler
   • Redcat Gen7 - entry-level scaler; set to release on Sept. 29
   • Axial SCX10 OriGinal (OG) - outdated, but still a good option
   • Vaterra Ascender - compared to SCX10 II here
   • Updated SCX10 ii (version 2) - here's a comparison with the OriGinal and another
   • Traxxas TRX-4 - here's an article and a comparison with SCX10 ii
   • Others
   
   Other tools/supplies you might need, depending on what you already have:
   
   
4. $8 - Hobbico Soldering Iron 60 Watt
5. $4 - Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 50 Weight 2 oz
6. $4 - Thread Lock (blue) - for metal-to-metal no-nylon threaded connectors
7. $2 - Green Slime - (shock leak preventative)
8. $27 - Turnigy Accucel-6 Balancer/Charger - 50W 6A DC w/ Accessories - I've used these for years with no trouble; if back-ordered, alternates would be ECO6, B6 models, B405.
9. $10 x 2 - Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Battery Pack or from RPP - Note that 3s lipo requires an external BEC if used with the older AE-2 ESC, and larger/higher C-rated batteries are required for running brushless power; alternates are available using HobbyKing's "lipo finder" here. Also, this won't fit the Ascender or anything requiring a "shorty" pack, so try this instead; max size is 105x45mm.
10. $14 - HobbyKing Power Supply - 100~240v to 15v 7A (for the charger, unless you're going to run it off your 1:1 car's battery)
11. $19 - Long Shaft 4pc Hex driver set
12. $13 - Turnigy or Wiha 4pcs hex socket driver set
13. $4 - Nylon XT60 Connectors - Male/Female (5 pairs) or from RPP - upgrade your ESC & motor connectors; remember power-output gets the female connector, and mind your + & - polarity to keep from damaging things
14. $4 -
    Xt60 EasyOff disconnect tool and 10 pairs of adapters
15. $1 - Turnigy 5mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLUE (1mtr)
16. $3 - solder - for upgrading battery/motor/ESC connectors
17. $6 - TriFlow Dry Lube - for exposed moving parts like out-drives & drive-shafts
18. $7 - Lucas Red Tacky grease or marine grease - for the differentials
19. $6 - Helping hands with magnifying glass here
20. $4 - Servo/lights tester here
21. $3 - Lipo-safe charging bag
    
    If you are building the rig yourself (i.e. buying/bought a kit) you'll also need a steering servo, perhaps something like:
    
    
22. $20 - Hextronik HK15298B Servo - High Voltage Coreless Digital MG/BB 66g / 20kg / 0.16s, or from RPP - This is also a good upgrade for you RTR-ers! If it's out of stock, here's another option, and another from RPP.
23. $4 - Futaba-type 25-tooth Clamping Aluminum Arm for the servo listed above: Short (slower, more torque), and Long (faster, less torque); I recommend one of each for custom fitting/adjustment purposes.
    
    ...a radio transmitter & receiver combo:
    
    
24. $50 - GT3C transmitter & receiver - includes battery & charger, plus is hack-able up to 8 channels & 99-model memory; cheap 3ch & 8ch spare RX's for your other models are available at Hobbyking for $7-10 here and here.
    
    ...an Electronoc Speed Control (or ESC):
    
    
25. $100 - Holmes BR-XL Water Resistant ESC for Brushed Motors or from RPP - 2s to 6s lipo input, 6v 5a switchmode BEC, no 540 motor limit, Castle Link programmable, Regenerative Drag Brake, Active Hold Brake and Quiet mode; according to this poll, the BR-XL is the favorite brushed-motor ESC among RCC members.
26. $42 - Hobbywing WP 1080 ESC may just be the best n00b-friendly brushed-motor ESC for crawling/trailing, plus it has a built-in 6/7.4v 3A BEC which could mean skipping the $20 Castle BEC. (Thanks @JatoTheRipper!)
27. $147 - A more versatile but more expensive ESC option (Thanks @Allanon1965!) would be the Castle Mamba X from RPP which can run brushed OR sensored/sensorless brushless motors; built-in 8A, adjustable BEC (5.25V-8.0V), 2-6s lipo support, waterproof, programmable.
    
    ...and a motor to make it go:
    
    
28. $57 - Motor Holmes Hobbies CrawlMaster Expert 13t or from RPP - Brushed, rebuildable 5-slot motor, equivalent to a 27t 3-slot MOTOR, or $10 for a 35t RC4WD motor; click here for more motor options & advice.

Final damage: $169+ for RTR & $418+ for a kit version, depending on what you may already have and which ESC/motor setup you go with; this includes: rig, radio, servo, esc, motor, battery & charger.

Here are links to Harley's SCX10 Build and the SCX10 Tips & Tricks threads to keep you going once you've got a rig in-hand. This is assuming you choose the SCX10. Similar tips and build threads may be found on RCC for pretty much all of the crawlers, definitely for the popular ones that have been out for at least a couple of months.

If you know of RCC-supporting vendors that sell these items and I missed them, please let me know so I can update these links.

N00bz: please remember to use the search button.

One last thing: hit LIKE on the bottom right of this post if you appreciate any/all of this info, and clicking on 5 stars near the top right wouldn't make me sad either (this was a lotta work!). ;)

[Shoe]

What do you think about the G6 Falkin RTR?
What would be your second and third choice RTR and kit.
Are the G6 rigs worth it.

[bshaw95]

Falkin is basically the same with the exception of a g6 body painted for falken and falken tires. Most of the rtrs are the exact same. You just pay for licensing on the bodies. Deadbolt has no 1:1 counterpart that it is made for so it is cheapest. Even if it does resemble a scout


Long time racer, first time crawler

[StomperCrawler]

Falken has the same upgrades: AE-5 waterproof 3s-capable ESC, dual-slipper clutch, WB8 drive-shafts, 150oz metal-gear servo, light bar w/o lights.

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

... If you are building it yourself you'll also need:

1. $33 - Turnigy TrackStar 17.5T Sensored Brushless Motor 2270KV

I'd stay away from this motor. I've got the older iteration of it and the low speed characteristics isn't good.
Much better to use a brushed motor, 35-50T depending on desired speed and battery voltage. $10 Brushed motors are also better suited for running in murky water.

[sic1to]

I would prob go with rtr! The stock electronics are just as good as that generic list of parts. Wheelspeed is only major gain between the two. I know people use those parts, I have used them also until using quality product.Just remember with any hobby(especially electronics) its always better to buy it once. Imo Holmes Hobbies is the best with product & cust service!!! Upgrade as ya break or want added performance! The most commom on rtr failure is plastic links & servo

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by Olle P

I'd stay away from this motor. I've got the older iteration of it and the low speed characteristics isn't good.
Much better to use a brushed motor, 35-50T depending on desired speed and battery voltage. $10 Brushed motors are also better suited for running in murky water.

Aparrently the newest iteration is good: 5/5 stars and a ton of great reviews. However I would be interested to know what sensored brushless inexpensive motor others would recommend.

[eddiemeddiem]

Thanks for the write up!

Good call on the GT3C transmitter, I have one and like it. Folks might also consider Tacon motors and Solar servos, I find these to be a pretty good value.

[Norton]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/payments.php

[Leaderbeanjr]

Ha that's what I did last time.. Will probably have to do it again. I am normally just lurker and don't post enough. Some much has changed in the last couple of years I have to relearn all the different crawlers that are out. It's tough to decide what to buy. Need to go to the local shop and see what classes they have the most of but guides like this help steer you in a direction.

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

Aparrently the newest iteration is good: 5/5 stars and a ton of great reviews.

Those reviews doesn't reflect the crawling aspect, which is my point! You don't want a crawler motor with 15 degrees timing on the sensor.

For racing I wouldn't hesitate to use it at all. My Turnigy motor has found a new home in a drift car while I wait for a proper motor.

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

However I would be interested to know what sensored brushless inexpensive motor others would recommend.

None, really.
For crawling slow a brushed motor is the number one option, but if good top speed is also a requirement brushless motor options include:
Tekin ROC 412 (~$150)
HH Trailmaster series (out of stock)
HH Revolver S (out of stock)
HH Puller Pro (out of stock)
Tekin RS (available at <$100, but worse than those above)

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by Olle P

Those reviews doesn't reflect the crawling aspect, which is my point! You don't want a crawler motor with 15 degrees timing on the sensor...

For crawling slow a brushed motor is the number one option, but if good top speed is also a requirement brushless motor options include:

• Tekin ROC 412 (~$150)
• HH Trailmaster series (out of stock)
• HH Revolver S (out of stock)
• HH Puller Pro (out of stock)
• Tekin RS (available at more than $100, but worse than those above)

That seems expensive to me, but to each his/her own. Upon further research, it would seem that going brushless for crawling is less than ideal unless one is willing to spend at least $200 to do it.

[bshaw95]

Yeah the trackstar is a really common choice for people who run stock racing classes and don't want to pay for a ROAR legal motor. I would think that most of those reviews are from racers.

[Leaderbeanjr]

so i have been looking at the rtr and kits. I think I have it narrowed down to a g6 or rubicon kit for my first crawler. Is the difference between the 2 just the bodies?

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

That's crazy expensive! No way would I spend that kind of money on a motor alone. ...

... which is why I recommend a $10 brushed motor as a BETTER PERFORMING option!

STAY AWAY FROM BRUSHLESS unless absolutely required for high top speed!

The "ROAR approved" label is a clear indication that the design is unsuitable for crawling (as stated by John Holmes in another thread). (Magnet material, rotor size and shape, air gaps, etc. All not favourable for a crawler's needs.)
Yes, the timing isn't locked to 15 degrees. It's adjustable from 15 to 45 degrees, but it can't be set closer to 0.

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by Olle P

... which is why I recommend a $10 brushed motor as a BETTER PERFORMING option!

STAY AWAY FROM BRUSHLESS unless absolutely required for high top speed!

The "ROAR approved" label is a clear indication that the design is unsuitable for crawling (as stated by John Holmes in another thread). (Magnet material, rotor size and shape, air gaps, etc. All not favourable for a crawler's needs.)
Yes, the timing isn't locked to 15 degrees. It's adjustable from 15 to 45 degrees, but it can't be set closer to 0.

I think I'm beginning to understand. You're saying that cheap ($20-40) brushed motors out-perform sensored brushless motors for crawling unless you're willing to spend $100-150 minimum on a brushless motor, plus the cost of a sensored brushless esc (with drag brake) , correct?

[Olle P]

That's correct!
$50 is sufficient for a brushed motor AND ESC that will perform excellent, while it takes about $200 to get similar very low speed performance from a brushless motor and ESC.

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by Leaderbeanjr

so i have been looking at the rtr and kits. I think I have it narrowed down to a g6 or rubicon kit for my first crawler. Is the difference between the 2 just the bodies?

See for yourself:

• G6
• Rubicon

[StomperCrawler]

Here's a fresh active thread on what folks are using to power their scx10s: What is your favorite electronics?

[StomperCrawler]

And one for Wraiths (ie speed) Choosing a motor and ESC for your Wraith - Gearing Added!