Rckcrwlr's Demon Child...Kyosho DRX VE

[Rckcrwlr]

So I put a really low offer on one on ebay and now I'm the proud owner of....

[Stburr91]

I think that's one of the best looking generic bodies from a manufacturer, even the paint scheme isn't too bad.

Just wait until you hit the dirt with it.

[Rckcrwlr]

Originally Posted by Stburr91

I think that's one of the best looking generic bodies from a manufacturer, even the paint scheme isn't too bad.

Just wait until you hit the dirt with it.

I agree. Not a Ford guy and someone else has the Subi so I opted for this. I think it will look great in a picture coming into a dirt slide with the Ford and Subi in the background.

[Stburr91]

Originally Posted by Rckcrwlr

I agree. Not a Ford guy and someone else has the Subi so I opted for this. I think it will look great in a picture coming into a dirt slide with the Ford and Subi in the background.

Or it may be eating dust from a Ford.

[Rckcrwlr]

Originally Posted by Stburr91

Or it may be eating dust from a Ford.

Hard to tell the difference between dust and smoke...

[Stburr91]

If Jake is driving that Citroen, we both may be eating dust.

[Rckcrwlr]

It's here, It's Here



Compared to the TF2 for size



I love the clear glass. Think I will mount the Replay on the under body when I get it to get from the driver seat video. also can aim it back through the rear window...

[Rckcrwlr]

The giggling has started...

[Rckcrwlr]

As suggested, I added the side guards to the chassis. This will be beneficial two fold...one to protect the components once the buggy body is attached to it and two, it gives some support to the Rally body if there should be a side impact...



They are close to a perfect fit. You need to drill holes in the guards to match the chassis holes and cut about a quarter inch off the ends of the rear where they hit the diff case. Other thing that I did was cut the nubs off the battery side of the guard so that the battery tray mounts flat.



I just used some 3x8mm screws to hold it in place


Next thing I did was put the JConcepts Chassis Protector on. I have used these on pretty much all of my go fast rigs. Not only does it protect your chassis, it also holds screws in place and offers a smooth surface to avoid snagging or dirt getting up through the holes.


I normally start at the rear of the chassis and work my way up. This allows me to overlap the edges so there is no places for it to snag. I didn't do it on this one.

I started at the front of the chassis and lined it up. They rough cut the material to make it easier to handle.




Next I wiped the chassis down with alcohol to get any of the packing grease or dirt off it. You can see the dirt that came off it.






Now starting at the edge, I stuck it to make sure it doesn't move. Stick once..this stuff is a bear to take off and re-apply.



Now work it back slowly making sure that you apply it from the center out to ensure that there are no air bubbles.



When you have it completely applied use your hands and a hairdryer to get it so you really can't see it anymore. There will be air bubbles around the screw heads. Unless you remove all the screws, you will have to deal with it.



Once it is on well, you need to trim it. I angle my knife from the inside of the chassis to the outside so that there are no edges to catch. You are basically beveling the edge.



For extra re-enforcement, I left the Chassis Protector overlapped on the side guards to help tie it all together.



I cut the buggy body to fit (JConcepts Finnisher for the MP9). Will add velcro tonight.



And her she is "DEMON CHILD" ready to run...

[Rckcrwlr]

I want to start off with...everything is trial and error...

So I finally got my parts that I needed:

Extra Spider Gears
Extra Drive Pins
Diff Gaskets

It was time to get this thing in racing condition...

Doing some research, most people that were using Diff Fluid were in the sub 10K range. My thinking is that (and it could be wrong) you don't want the diffs to unload on different terrains that a "rally" car could be running on. So I opted to go with 10K for the front and center diff and 30K for the rear diff.

It was time to tear into this thing. It is built almost like an 8th buggy. I started with the center diff...



Just make sure that you get all the grease out of there or you will contaminate the fluid. Also while in there make sure that the O-Ring at the output shaft is in place and the gears are shimmed correctly. I added the gasket and after letting the fluid settle, I topped it off and reassembled it. Did the same thing to the Front.



It was time for the rear...this one I went with 30K Fluid.



Took it for a test ride in the driveway...wow is this thing fun. Can't wait to get it on the terrain on Sunday.

[Rckcrwlr]

Under body is mounted up...



Important Sponsor Decal and Driver Script






Tomorrow I will charge batteries and get ready for Sunday Morning...And find a mounting position for the RePlay HD Camera.

[Szczerba]

Looking good so far. If you have anyway to reinforce the front of the body it might last longer. The body is pretty brittle and gets torn up pretty quick if you bash it around like do. I didn't know to do it on the Demon body but I will reinforce the new Lancer body I have coming. I was told fiberglass tape and shoo goo. Or something along those lines.

Just wait til you drive this car, you'll be grinning from ear to ear.

[imthatguy]

Looks great! Would you folks agree that the additional spider gears are mandatory?

[Stburr91]

Originally Posted by imthatguy

Looks great! Would you folks agree that the additional spider gears are mandatory?

That's a good question. I've run about 8 or 9, 3s packs through mine without the extras gears, and no problems so far. Despite that, I'll be putting in the extra gears. If you're only going to be using 2s packs, I'd bet you would be able to do without the extra gears. However, the extra gears are a pretty cheap upgrade, so why not just put them in if you're going to run the car hard.

[Rckcrwlr]

Originally Posted by imthatguy

Looks great! Would you folks agree that the additional spider gears are mandatory?

Originally Posted by Stburr91

That's a good question. I've run about 8 or 9, 3s packs through mine without the extras gears, and no problems so far. Despite that, I'll be putting in the extra gears. If you're only going to be using 2s packs, I'd bet you would be able to do without the extra gears. However, the extra gears are a pretty cheap upgrade, so why not just put them in if you're going to run the car hard.

It also will tighten up the diff. Just make sure you shim them good so there is no slop.

[Rckcrwlr]

And we're off.

[JesterSpec]

Need more photos...

[buzzbuzzard]

Yeah, That's a freakin awsome lineup. I love the RedBull. Show us the race.

[Creepy Inc.]

Originally Posted by Rckcrwlr

They are close to a perfect fit. You need to drill holes in the guards to match the chassis holes and cut about a quarter inch off the ends of the rear where they hit the diff case. Other thing that I did was cut the nubs off the battery side of the guard so that the battery tray mounts flat.


Now starting at the edge, I stuck it to make sure it doesn't move. Stick once..this stuff is a bear to take off and re-apply.

The side guards I picked up don't let the batt set flat, I had to use small spacers to rise up . Won't that Chassis Plate be a pain in the ass to remove and reapply every time you want to change diff oil?

[Creepy Inc.]

Originally Posted by Rckcrwlr

And we're off.

Attachment 214335

We need some video for that race