Krakkers F-10 TAG. new ground.

[Krakker]

Also this past couple of days, I have taken weight ou of my 2.2 DNA Snipers. (as well my 1.9s) I left the fronts alone except for drilling a few vent holes in them.
Used the mill on my Smithy and hogged out the holes, then reamed them and drilled some vent holes in every other spot on the wheel. (three total)

Need to make a jig for hole placement in the future for other wheels, I'm thinking of doing the Eritex comp heavies as well.
Turning the rear tubes and lightening the rear wheels has made a significant amount af weight bias towards the front.

[53 willys]

nice job looks like it turned out great!!

[Krakker]

Milled down the top of the front axle today, I've got plenty of room for what ever steering arm I choose now. Also working on a BTA steering setup of my own. I've placed the arm towards the back, flipped the link/shock mounts upside down and cut off the bottom link hole position. Waiting on a new tap for the cross link, but everything looks to be do-able at this point.

[53 willys]

so did you mill the top so the servo does not hit the upper link mount??

[Krakker]

Originally Posted by 53 willys

so did you mill the top so the servo does not hit the upper link mount??

I milled it just to give more room for a thicker servo arm. My stock 7950 arm was filed down just so it would not rest on the axle and bind. even when barely touching, the mounting screws were still against the upper link mount on the gear housing. Now nothing touches. I milled down almost as far as the stock link mount on the tube. I also left a ridge on both sides just for the link mount to set in, (add in assembling.)
I also filed a notch on the mounting flange both front and back depending on how the horn was mounted. (facing front or rear)
I'll get some pics posted up later. I did use the stock aluminum arm for mounting it in the BTA position using the farthest hole modded for a standard 3M screw. The only thing I"m concerned with is having to use threaded rod for the horn to knuckle steering link. IF it works out I'll probably bend a new one after it's sleeved first but I needed to get the length right first.

[Krakker]

Here's a bunck of pics the show the BTA steering using the Xertic mount.

[Krakker]

Re did the Axle shave to smooth things up. I found that the extra holes on the axles that are taped can actually open into the inside of the tube.
After I machined mine down, I put JBweld into the exposed holes to smooth the axle. Once hardened, I filed them smooth and painted them black. I also used the dremel on the underside of the link mount to make it the same as the shaved part. They now look clean, and cool.

[lil' lucifer]

I like, I like!

Two for you.

[rmdesignworks]

what kind of paint did you use Rory? looks good man,,wanna do mine one of these days?

[Krakker]

Originally Posted by lil' lucifer

I like, I like!

Two for you.

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

what kind of paint did you use Rory? looks good man,,wanna do mine one of these days?

Thanks guys.
I used a high temp aluminum first (like for headers) then went over it with a scotch brite pad and a few coats of standard gloss black.

[ROCKEDUP RICKY]

Originally Posted by Krakker

Re did the Axle shave to smooth things up. I found that the extra holes on the axles that are taped can actually open into the inside of the tube.
After I machined mine down, I put JBweld into the exposed holes to smooth the axle. Once hardened, I filed them smooth and painted them black. I also used the dremel on the underside of the link mount to make it the same as the shaved part. They now look clean, and cool.

Nice job on the axles and putting the JB weld in the holes to clean it up was a good idea.

For those of you who try this there's a good tip to go along with this.

Bit of info on the top screw holes you should know

[Krakker]

In the process of making some wheels for use with the Bully. (actually just modding some stock Berg wheels)
So far things are better than I thought they would be. I'll jsut add in the link from the tread in the wheels forum. but leave a pic or 2 to show how it's turned out so far.

Narrowing aluminum (Berg) wheels

[Kraqa]

are you at all conserned with the scrub radius with those rims?

[lil' lucifer]

can't really tell but are the rims .75" wide? or less?

[Krakker]

Originally Posted by Kraqa

are you at all conserned with the scrub radius with those rims?

Not at all. I essentially only moved the inner bead surface outward. If anything, I should just have a "polish" radius.

Originally Posted by lil' lucifer

can't really tell but are the rims .75" wide? or less?

They are .800 wide at the mounting surface.
They also are the same hole separattion as Axial wheels since they are 6 hole wheels. I think 6 hole wheels are fine, I'm just not too keen on the uber smooth and thin BL rings that the Bergs have. I Like the fact that I can use different color AX rings on them but I want some thick rings that I can counter sink the screw heads into.

[Krakker]

Here's the finished wheels pics.
I went ahead and re-drilled the Berg BL rings and milled hole surface. On the back side, I just drilled out some AX10 rings since they are the same spacing. The fronts you can see have holes drilled through the wheels spokes. this is where I will be able to attach a "brass ring" from the back side to add weight if needed with out having to take a BL ring off.
The pics show them at full lock with out touching the links or shocks (like they did easily before.) I didn't touch the foams, or even sipe the Chisels yet, and I think they flex and conform pretty damn good.
I also drilled 3 vent holes in the rims. After siping the Chisels, I think this'll be a pretty good set up. (of course it's all in the driver.)

[ROCKEDUP RICKY]

Nice job on the wheels. I like the clearance you got with them.

I'd like to have some .800 hubs for my SLW wheels. It have a little more clearance.

[R2j]

Best use of a Berg wheel I've ever seen!


X2 on the .800 Ricky that would do the trick.

[GEARSCIENCE]

is that all the steering angle u got? doesnt seem like as much as u can get with the steering shaved... hows the scrub radius i know its been asked but maybe ur opinion changed if youve ran it more. im interested in opening up my fronts to get rid of some tire rub. thanks

[Krakker]

I can get more steering out of for sure, at current setup (under the axle) I can only achieve stock angles. The link is also resting outward, Not as near to the motor as it could be. There will much more steering when I change back to "in front" steering. I tend to run "toe in" on my rigs, so the "scrub" radius is helping in my opinion. So far the only tests have been done indoors but the dig radius hasn't changed and the grab effect from the side is easier. I'm pretty happy with the setup for now and will report back after I've had a change to get some rocks. (with NO SNOW!) perhaps the rocks will tell a different story but with over 400oz. of steering and plenty strong shafts I'm pretty confident that these will be the bees knees.:-P