RCCrawler Forums

talon0713 · 05-14-2010, 12:45 PM

hres some pics of the wiring theres a close up of the single switch for both esc's and a pic of the parallel y harness i made for the batt. power to the esc's.

this is the y connection from the 2 esc's to the single switch.

talon0713 · 05-14-2010, 01:05 PM

ok so i have been playing with how to properly program the esc's for this application and this is what i came up with seeming to work the best.

step 1: i did the one-touch setup at the same time both esc's at the same time.
step 2: i changed both esc's to expo mode at the exact same time
step 3: i changed the front motors direction of rotation.
step 4: i changed both esc's stall brake at the exact same time.
step 5: i changed both esc's dead band at the exact same time.

and that is the best way i have found to program them to insure all the settings were matched. i think this way makes for less confusion on what has been set and what you still need to set. took me about 5 mins doing it this way.

hope this helps anyone thats going to use this setup. happy crawling guys. i will get some more vid's up this weekend.

seven_gun · 05-14-2010, 02:33 PM

looking good, going to be roasting tires like no tomorrow.
cleaned up well

talon0713 · 05-16-2010, 10:14 PM

ok so i have been doing some test and tune on the truck the last couple days and was wondering what you guys have been doing for wheel weight? i know that im in dire need of weight in my front end and a bit in the back. i have heard of guys puting b.b.'s in the tires and was wondering if this worked pretty well? it sounds logical to me that it would take some of the strain off the motors it not having to rotate a heavier mass like adding wire or actual wheel weights. i would hate to add more load to my motors due to the fact im already trying to fight off an over heating problem. i know part of the motor heat problem i have right now is i have a really bad gear mesh problem because i drilled my pinion holes out and they are slightly off center now lol. but also im working on a heat sink design for them as well because they have no vent or fan to keep them cool. anyway any thoughts on the wheel weight would be great.

eggie · 05-16-2010, 10:39 PM

Heat issue:
What about something like this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSE5

I know it won't fit the tiny motor we have, but you can use thermal adhesive compound used for video card memory or pc system memory when adding heatsinks.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm
http://www.directron.com/silveramsinks.html

Weights:
In another post, we are talking about harbor frieght having lead free adhesive weights and wal-mart fishing department for coiled weights.
http://web1.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249904

talon0713 · 05-16-2010, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eggie

Heat issue:
What about something like this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSE5

I know it won't fit the tiny motor we have, but you can use thermal adhesive compound used for video card memory or pc system memory when adding heatsinks.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm
http://www.directron.com/silveramsinks.html

Weights:
In another post, we are talking about harbor frieght having lead free adhesive weights and wal-mart fishing department for coiled weights.
http://web1.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249904

never thought about using the adhesive actually i totally forgot about that stuff thx and ya thats kinda what im working on just trying to make it small enough to not get in the way but big enough to maybe attach a fan to. thanx for the reminder about the adhesive.

talon0713 · 05-18-2010, 04:12 PM

ok so im just noticing one bad thing about the mongoose setup and thats the built in bec its output is 6v@2amps... not so hot on the amps lol... so i was wondering if it is possible to add an external bec to boost that or will it default to the esc bec?

DinoCrawler · 05-19-2010, 10:13 AM

To run an external BEC you have to clip the center wire on the ESC wire going to the Rx. Then connect the BEC to the Rx in any open spot.

DinoCrawler · 05-19-2010, 05:15 PM

I made me a new skid plate so I can put everything down lower and have more room. You mentioned having a space problem with two ESCs so it made me think a little. We may add it to our list of parts if it works well.
Tell me what you think. By the way those dots you see on the bottom are LED lights. Something we are playing with.

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Size: 83.4 KB

talon0713 · 05-19-2010, 06:45 PM

hey thats pretty cool stuff also something i have been tossing around in my head is making a spot to put the lower links closer together to make them more triangulated as well so kinda do like the bully beattlejuice 2 has them in the middle of the skid plate instead of on the outside of the chassis on both sides. then you would have triangulated links top and bottom to controll axle walk better.

talon0713 · 05-19-2010, 08:29 PM

ok so fowk the mg 995 servo's they are worthless... i have been fighting with these things for like 4 days now every now and then my front servo will decide it doesnt want to work and then poof it works again not sure whats causing it but its driving me bonkers. the rear one did it once too. so all that being said dont buy them they will just frustrate you lol...

jsowens · 05-19-2010, 08:53 PM

Have you tried unplugging one servo and seeing if the problem happens to the one that's still plugged up? Or you could swap the rear servo to the front...and the front to the rear, since the front one seems to be the one with the most problems...and see if the problem follows it. You may be experiencing some extreme glitching.

FSJCRAWLER · 05-19-2010, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by talon0713

hey thats pretty cool stuff also something i have been tossing around in my head is making a spot to put the lower links closer together to make them more triangulated as well so kinda do like the bully beattlejuice 2 has them in the middle of the skid plate instead of on the outside of the chassis on both sides. then you would have triangulated links top and bottom to controll axle walk better.

That the way i did it. my skid has to be kinda small. but haven't found it to be a pro yet.

DinoCrawler · 05-20-2010, 09:16 AM

We thought about doing that originally but wanted to keep better clearence around the motor when we narrowed the chassis. That look good from here.

eggie · 05-20-2010, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by talon0713

ok so fowk the mg 995 servo's they are worthless... i have been fighting with these things for like 4 days now every now and then my front servo will decide it doesnt want to work and then poof it works again not sure whats causing it but its driving me bonkers. the rear one did it once too. so all that being said dont buy them they will just frustrate you lol...

I had a feeling this was the case.

As for skips, I fabricated something the other day. I'll post up pictures once I get things back together.

DinoCrawler · 05-20-2010, 09:27 AM

Hey Talon, refresh my memory. You are running an external BEC right?

talon0713 · 05-20-2010, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DinoCrawler

Hey Talon, refresh my memory. You are running an external BEC right?

not yet... here in the near future i will be.

DinoCrawler · 05-20-2010, 11:28 AM

That my friend is your problem with the servos. I would put money on it.

DinoCrawler · 05-20-2010, 11:28 AM

Not my money but someones money

talon0713 · 05-20-2010, 11:38 AM

well it worked fine runing off the mongoose esc's bec for several days and the other day it just decided to wig out

05-14-2010, 12:45 PM	#61
talon0713 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: lake havasu city Posts: 285	hres some pics of the wiring theres a close up of the single switch for both esc's and a pic of the parallel y harness i made for the batt. power to the esc's. this is the y connection from the 2 esc's to the single switch. Last edited by talon0713; 05-14-2010 at 12:53 PM. Reason: forgot to put in the pics...

05-19-2010, 10:13 AM	#68
DinoCrawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 148	To run an external BEC you have to clip the center wire on the ESC wire going to the Rx. Then connect the BEC to the Rx in any open spot. Last edited by DinoCrawler; 05-19-2010 at 10:15 AM.

05-14-2010, 01:05 PM	#62
talon0713 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: lake havasu city Posts: 285	ok so i have been playing with how to properly program the esc's for this application and this is what i came up with seeming to work the best. step 1: i did the one-touch setup at the same time both esc's at the same time. step 2: i changed both esc's to expo mode at the exact same time step 3: i changed the front motors direction of rotation. step 4: i changed both esc's stall brake at the exact same time. step 5: i changed both esc's dead band at the exact same time. and that is the best way i have found to program them to insure all the settings were matched. i think this way makes for less confusion on what has been set and what you still need to set. took me about 5 mins doing it this way. hope this helps anyone thats going to use this setup. happy crawling guys. i will get some more vid's up this weekend.

05-14-2010, 02:33 PM	#63
seven_gun Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: PNW Posts: 31	looking good, going to be roasting tires like no tomorrow. cleaned up well

05-16-2010, 10:14 PM	#64
talon0713 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: lake havasu city Posts: 285	ok so i have been doing some test and tune on the truck the last couple days and was wondering what you guys have been doing for wheel weight? i know that im in dire need of weight in my front end and a bit in the back. i have heard of guys puting b.b.'s in the tires and was wondering if this worked pretty well? it sounds logical to me that it would take some of the strain off the motors it not having to rotate a heavier mass like adding wire or actual wheel weights. i would hate to add more load to my motors due to the fact im already trying to fight off an over heating problem. i know part of the motor heat problem i have right now is i have a really bad gear mesh problem because i drilled my pinion holes out and they are slightly off center now lol. but also im working on a heat sink design for them as well because they have no vent or fan to keep them cool. anyway any thoughts on the wheel weight would be great.

05-16-2010, 10:39 PM	#65
eggie Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2010 Location: Central Coast Posts: 111	Heat issue: What about something like this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSE5 I know it won't fit the tiny motor we have, but you can use thermal adhesive compound used for video card memory or pc system memory when adding heatsinks. http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm http://www.directron.com/silveramsinks.html Weights: In another post, we are talking about harbor frieght having lead free adhesive weights and wal-mart fishing department for coiled weights. http://web1.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249904

05-18-2010, 04:12 PM	#67
talon0713 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: lake havasu city Posts: 285	ok so im just noticing one bad thing about the mongoose setup and thats the built in bec its output is 6v@2amps... not so hot on the amps lol... so i was wondering if it is possible to add an external bec to boost that or will it default to the esc bec?

05-19-2010, 05:15 PM	#69
DinoCrawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 148	I made me a new skid plate so I can put everything down lower and have more room. You mentioned having a space problem with two ESCs so it made me think a little. We may add it to our list of parts if it works well. Tell me what you think. By the way those dots you see on the bottom are LED lights. Something we are playing with.

05-19-2010, 06:45 PM	#70
talon0713 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: lake havasu city Posts: 285	hey thats pretty cool stuff also something i have been tossing around in my head is making a spot to put the lower links closer together to make them more triangulated as well so kinda do like the bully beattlejuice 2 has them in the middle of the skid plate instead of on the outside of the chassis on both sides. then you would have triangulated links top and bottom to controll axle walk better.

05-19-2010, 08:29 PM	#71
talon0713 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: lake havasu city Posts: 285	ok so fowk the mg 995 servo's they are worthless... i have been fighting with these things for like 4 days now every now and then my front servo will decide it doesnt want to work and then poof it works again not sure whats causing it but its driving me bonkers. the rear one did it once too. so all that being said dont buy them they will just frustrate you lol...

05-19-2010, 08:53 PM	#72
jsowens RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,882	Have you tried unplugging one servo and seeing if the problem happens to the one that's still plugged up? Or you could swap the rear servo to the front...and the front to the rear, since the front one seems to be the one with the most problems...and see if the problem follows it. You may be experiencing some extreme glitching.

05-20-2010, 09:16 AM	#74
DinoCrawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 148	We thought about doing that originally but wanted to keep better clearence around the motor when we narrowed the chassis. That look good from here.

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05-20-2010, 09:27 AM	#76
DinoCrawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 148	Hey Talon, refresh my memory. You are running an external BEC right?

05-20-2010, 11:28 AM	#78
DinoCrawler Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 148	That my friend is your problem with the servos. I would put money on it.

05-20-2010, 11:38 AM	#80
talon0713 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: lake havasu city Posts: 285	well it worked fine runing off the mongoose esc's bec for several days and the other day it just decided to wig out

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