09-03-2010, 11:49 AM | #81 | |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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Having said that... I was running close to 12oz in each front wheel (total tire/wheel weight). I was running the rears with no weight (think i was 5oz or so??). It was working fantastic for where I was driving. I went to my first comp and to say the least, I had my ass handed to me. I was running late and didnt even get to try the rock out. I found out real quick that my 12oz in the front didnt have a chance. After the first course I put in all my bullets so I ran close to 16oz in the front and kept the rear the same. Front was doing really good now and I was able to make a lot of climbs. Not having weight in the rear really made for a lot of sketchy sections and made me feel unstable for the most part. It couldnt get better for a straight climb though. Since then I have kept the 16 oz total weight in the front. I think I want to lose an oz. but it has not been a big enough deal. I lightened up my rear even more to 4.6oz total weight and it climbs even better. I did buy some more wheels for the rear and now have 8.5oz total weight in each corner. It feels a TON more stable but I am not able to make some of the climbs. Guess its a trade off. I am going to keep my 4.6 setup for the place I go the most but I will take my heavier setup for comps and different terrain. The place I practice most needs a lot of wheel speed and big bumps to make it up stuff. Not much crawling. To answer your original question... Yes, I did lighten up my fronts after moving the weight forward. I found I needed it back for crawling vertical sticky climbs. Right now I will take the rear as light as possible for the slick, no off camber, no downhill stuff and I will take a heavier setups in the rear (still figuring that out) for the other stuff. Also, I think I was trying to lose weight in the front as an attempt at to gain more wheel speed. I think I have that now without having to lose the weight. Thats why I dont mind running the full setup in the front. | |
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09-04-2010, 09:21 AM | #82 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Knee deep in a creek with a fish on the line
Posts: 456
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I am sitting at 1244g right now with a pretty stock LCC. I removed all of the losi mounting trays, and i use the RCbros dig mount and the Rcbros low pro steering mount. I just ordered the alum set from rob so i will lose 35g on monday, plus I have the alum tranny parts on order, and i think that is another 55g so with those 2 mods i should be at 1154 by the end of next week.
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09-06-2010, 01:22 PM | #83 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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Well,... I got sick of the battery on the front servo. Servo was getting hot, my lipos were taking a beating, the weight placement was not bothering me but I knew there was a better spot and worst of all, I could not roll myself back over with the added height on the front servo. I thought about putting my lipo back on my rear axle. I couldnt get myself to do it. My car just climbs so much better with the weight up front. So... here is what I came up with. Just put everything on the front links. LOL. Its the "10lbs of shit in a 5lb sack" mod. Here are some pictures. On the front links there is a 1800mah 3s lipo, Mamba max pro, Castle BEC, and a TX. I had to move the shocks around a little bit. The front shocks only ended up to be .100 further out than stock, less than an 1/8" |
09-10-2010, 03:05 PM | #84 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 318
| lugs
By the look of these lugs, these tires either have a bunch of hrs on em or you're all about wheel speed. Quote:
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09-15-2010, 11:53 AM | #85 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Nevada City, CA
Posts: 301
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100% AGREE with the above post !!! That has got to be the most wore down set of rc crawler tires I have seen !! But keep in mind a wore down tire is LIGHTER than a new fresh tall lug tire !!! LOL !!! DLux: I just placed an order for worms and pins....now take that money and go buy a new set of tires !!! |
09-15-2010, 01:35 PM | #86 | |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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Yeah, they are pretty worn. I think I only have a month on those front tires??? I would have to check. I would post up with how many hours I think I have on my worms. I have held back though because I thought everybody would assume I was lying about it. I should be considered a non profit org. All of my profits go right back into this thing! | |
09-16-2010, 10:02 PM | #87 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 596
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please do tell us how many hours you got on a set of your worms. The way those tires worn after a month i doubt any one is gonna flat out call you a liar, besides if the tires are worn from lots of wheel speed use than all the better, shows that they'll hold up to some wheel speed. If i ever have worm gear trouble out of the moa losi i bought (havent got it yet but looking forward to running it) id like to know there is a long term fix avaible with proper care. |
09-17-2010, 12:48 AM | #88 | |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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09-23-2010, 05:22 PM | #89 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: With the ATL Crawlers
Posts: 707
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I'm in the process of reducing a little weight, sprung/total, and rearranging electronics. I'm trying to keep as little sprung weight as possible, I hear that helps , and also keeping a LCG. Is mounting electronics on upper links still sprung weight? I believe it counts 50/50 or something like that?
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09-26-2010, 12:43 AM | #90 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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I changed my setup around. In my last setup I moved my battery from on top of my servo to on top of my front links. I did not do this because I was not happy with weight distribution but rather how poorly it affected other aspects. I could feel a major change when I did this and did not like it. I really wanted my battery on my front axle again but I could not figure out a way to do it. What I came up with is putting my battery on my rear axle (approx 4.7oz) and I took off my heavier wheels (approx 5oz each) and replaced them with my stock LNC wheels (approx 1.6oz each). In doing this I did not move weight further back since I took weight off with the wheels. I took weight off the entire car AND the back. I hope my thinking makes sense...? |
09-26-2010, 12:46 AM | #91 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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Next, I jumped on board by attaching a poly carb plate under my servo that will hold my ESC, RX and BEC. By doing this EVERY part that I can move is now weighted on my axles with the exception of my dig, motor and trans. |
09-26-2010, 12:47 AM | #92 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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She is slim now! RTR. I can feel how light it is. It is driving so much better. Last edited by Erik D_lux; 09-26-2010 at 12:52 AM. |
09-26-2010, 12:49 AM | #93 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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I switched to LNC driveshafts. Much skinnier and lighter. LNC shaft Stock LCC shaft Junfac shaft MIP shaft |
09-26-2010, 12:51 AM | #94 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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In case anybody is curious like I was. Here is a castle motor fan. This thing works awesome! I wont run without one again. |
09-27-2010, 07:28 AM | #95 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: kirby tx
Posts: 75
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really good stuff here, i managed to slim down my crawler pretty good. here it is fully loaded. |
09-27-2010, 11:22 AM | #96 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: QC-AZ
Posts: 2,352
| 50/50 is a good approximation. But technically that would only stand true if the weight was perfectly centered on the links and they were also perfectly flat. Any other orientation would bias the weight to one end of the link. Its a classic high school physics class calculation at that point, but that might be overkill.
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09-28-2010, 04:02 AM | #97 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Istanbul
Posts: 55
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Erik How Much does your old steering link weight (the wierd contraption that goes from back to front)
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09-28-2010, 11:29 AM | #98 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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10-01-2010, 03:09 AM | #99 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Istanbul
Posts: 55
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Wouldn't it be better to have light wheels and heavy axle as apposed to heavy wheel and light axle. the overall result is the same, yes, but the rotation mass changes... has anyone tested with very light wheels and tire combo but all that needed weight on the axle? first you have heavy wheels which makes more work for the motor and esc and it is there for less efficient. second you will get faster response from your car (faster wheel spin and brake) due to less inertia on the wheels... Of course the whole weight shifting (dead weight will move from outside to the inside and will not rotate) and the feel of the car will change any ideas? |
10-01-2010, 07:12 AM | #100 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Austin Tx
Posts: 46
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I'm confused, Wieght on a crawler is it's friend.How come take weight out?? If the crawler is heavy it's more stable. Is this a rock racer? how much is your over all weight? I've seen that it's not uncommon to have rigs up to 6lbs.if the cralwer is too light it'll get scetchy snd too hard to predict how it's going to come down. Of course this is my opinion.
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