jebster's lcc

[jebster]

i think i got the servo an battery mounts to my liking. put it all together last night. slapped on some large offset wheels i've been running on my bully to see if i get the clearance i want. seems to work fine.

i also started mocking up the front links. everything clears fine except the electronics tray, which was binding on the upper links. i found that if i tilt the tray up no more binding. just hope it gives me enough room for my goat 3s with the fan on top.

i picked up a DMG ALT topper. love it! can't wait to get this finished up and running. still trying to decide what wheels i want to run (last pic).

[ghtpdm5]

really good job on it what are you thinking steering wise?

[jebster]

Originally Posted by ghtpdm5

really good job on it what are you thinking steering wise?

I do have the stock steering setup I was planning on installing. The only issue is I will have to run the servo arm up top. I did see some pics in this forum where people had a link that ran up and over the axle. Any idea who makes something like that? If I had I might be able to run everything higher and improve my clearance for approaches.

[dentonmac]

Very nice, I must admit that I thought that would never work. Looks great, best LCG option I have seen.

Subscribed. Keep the updates coming.

[jebster]

working on links right now. using the suggestion to short the front links to get a more forward weight bias.

once i get those installed i'll be on to the electronics.

more to come...

[ghtpdm5]

ahh, i see what you're looking to do with the steering. the rcbros ota link is what you're thinking of. not going to be easy to find one, better off making your own. i was running into the same issues when i made my first front plate, the stock steering setup would get jammed on the rocks pretty hard, hence why i made my bta steering arm to move the tierod behind the axle, still have the drag link hanging out there, but if you make everything correctly and have the right steering arm, you can make it work really well. with your servo as low as it is, you're going to be running a dinky little horn if you choose to go that way.

[jebster]

Originally Posted by ghtpdm5

ahh, i see what you're looking to do with the steering. the rcbros ota link is what you're thinking of. not going to be easy to find one, better off making your own. i was running into the same issues when i made my first front plate, the stock steering setup would get jammed on the rocks pretty hard, hence why i made my bta steering arm to move the tierod behind the axle, still have the drag link hanging out there, but if you make everything correctly and have the right steering arm, you can make it work really well. with your servo as low as it is, you're going to be running a dinky little horn if you choose to go that way.

for now i think i'm going to run it with the stock steering link and see what issues i have with it. just got the link today so i have to connect it up and see what trimming i need to do on my battery and servo mounts. i think it should just be the corners.

i run a bta setup on my venom creeper and it works well. like you i have the drag link hanging down but it hasn't really caused me any issues. once i get use to the link geometry, shock locations, etc. i'll see what options i want to try to get a bta on my lcc.

[jebster]

made up some lower links tonight. as you can see i took the advice to run short links up front and longer in the rear to get the weight bias forward. still need to make upper links but i have some temporary links in place so i could check clearances. everything moves smoothly with no binding. need some new rod ends and i'll be good to go.

i also got the front steering links today and mounted them up. i had to round the drivers side of the servo mount to give enough clearance for the link at full steer but beyond that everything works fine. i will be running the servo arm up as shown in the picture (once i get my hi-torque servo and longer arm).

all in all i'm liking this project a lot. hope to get it out on the rocks soon.

[jebster]

Got all my links made and installed. Did the shock cap mod and mounted them up. Also painted the tubes of the topper. Going to leave the panels raw. I will be making panels for the sides soon. He wheels are narrowed xr10s and I'm using junfac wideners. Everything clears nicely.

Started working on the electronics but haven't gotten to far.

Now for a few pics.

[jebster]

question: how powerful of a servo do i need to operate the dig on my lcc? i have a ht 82mg laying around i was thinking of popping in.

[hoghead5150]

i run a hobbico cs 35mg servo for my dig. it's like 67oz at 6v. works great.

[jebster]

Got the rig together and running. Still need a dig servo and heavy duty servo arm but did run it around the basement. Worked fine. The front axle mounts for the servo and battery worked fine without binding. I did have a question. Not experienced with brushless systems. When I was running the rig around it was faster in reverse. Any suggestions on what to do about that? Swap a pair of wires and reverse the rotation of the motor via the esc?

Some pics:

[jebster]

Oh yeah, need to make up some side panels. Probably just some raw aluminum like the topper.

[DRTMI]

Hey, I just got the same servo for mine but now I need another axle as 3 of the 4 holes broke. How do you like it? Of course the stock losi servo from my rtr is really strong at 6.8 volts on the rear. Never fails, get a mew radio and can't even use it until I get at least one new axle. As for the faster in reverse, on a sensored brushless you don't want to change the motor phasing, just match up the abc on both motor and esc. Seems like I read here somewhere that there is nothing you can do about that. My MMP does the same thing although not as bad as my old novak.

Sent from my DROIDX using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

[jebster]

Originally Posted by DRTMI

Hey, I just got the same servo for mine but now I need another axle as 3 of the 4 holes broke. How do you like it? Of course the stock losi servo from my rtr is really strong at 6.8 volts on the rear. Never fails, get a mew radio and can't even use it until I get at least one new axle. As for the faster in reverse, on a sensored brushless you don't want to change the motor phasing, just match up the abc on both motor and esc. Seems like I read here somewhere that there is nothing you can do about that. My MMP does the same thing although not as bad as my old novak.

Sent from my DROIDX using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

I have the same servo in my bully bashed and it has worked fine. Not a completely level servo but for the price it works pretty well.

[jebster]

Originally Posted by DRTMI

Hey, I just got the same servo for mine but now I need another axle as 3 of the 4 holes broke. How do you like it? Of course the stock losi servo from my rtr is really strong at 6.8 volts on the rear. Never fails, get a mew radio and can't even use it until I get at least one new axle. As for the faster in reverse, on a sensored brushless you don't want to change the motor phasing, just match up the abc on both motor and esc. Seems like I read here somewhere that there is nothing you can do about that. My MMP does the same thing although not as bad as my old novak.

Sent from my DROIDX using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

how many other people have had this issue (faster in reverse than forward)? could it be something with my esc? i'm running a goat 3s.

[hoghead5150]

on a sensored brushless i was told you can't swap wires to make the motor run the other way like a brushed motor. on the mmp i have i can reverse the esc.

since i'm not familiar with the novak esc's, do they have lights on the esc to show forward and reverse? on the mmp green is forward, red is reverse. on mine if i leave the esc normal, and reverse the channel in the radio when i go to throttle the esc lights up red, if i go reverse the esc lights up green. in this instance mine runs faster in reverse than forward due to motor timing. now if i put the radio in normal, and reverse the esc it all works as it should. would be something to check out anyway, i'm not sure if the goat esc has the capabilities of reversing inside the esc.

if it doesn't have that ability i guess you could change your motor timing to make it faster in forward than reverse.

[jebster]

Originally Posted by hoghead5150

on a sensored brushless i was told you can't swap wires to make the motor run the other way like a brushed motor. on the mmp i have i can reverse the esc.

since i'm not familiar with the novak esc's, do they have lights on the esc to show forward and reverse? on the mmp green is forward, red is reverse. on mine if i leave the esc normal, and reverse the channel in the radio when i go to throttle the esc lights up red, if i go reverse the esc lights up green. in this instance mine runs faster in reverse than forward due to motor timing. now if i put the radio in normal, and reverse the esc it all works as it should. would be something to check out anyway, i'm not sure if the goat esc has the capabilities of reversing inside the esc.

if it doesn't have that ability i guess you could change your motor timing to make it faster in forward than reverse.

that is a good idea. the goat can reverse the rotation on brushless. so, reverse the throttle on the radio and then reverse the rotation on the esc. worst case i end up right back where i'm at!

[hoghead5150]

yeah. just look at the manual for the goat (or on line) and see if it has lights for forward and reverse. make sure your lighting up the right one's!!

[jebster]

Seems like all the lights are in the right order. I tried reversing the throttle channel and the motor rotation but it didn't help. Oh well, not something I'll lose sleep over.