Panko's Twin Hammers

[Jus]

You've inspired me to look into making my own upper link mount. I'm not paying $30 for the ones I've seen, no disrespect towards our great RCC vendors. So the most important thing is to get the links closer together at the axle right? Or is it also the height that is important? I've never messed with link geometry at all. I really should have by now haha...

Great work btw.

[Panko]

Hey bud, its the height that matters. If anything, having the upper arms apart would be better. The main thing is the height though.

So you need to raise the diff end of the upper arms, and lower the chassis end of the arms. The stock cars have a lower hole at the chassis end of the arms, so thats the easy part. The diff end, i made mine 15mm high, and in total raised the upper arms at the back by about 12mm. The idea is, to get the upper arms sloping on a downhill angle from the diff forward, ehrn the truck is sitting natturally, with the diff flat, where the tail shaft is angled straight from the diff.

Have a look at one of my pics, you will see the angle im talking about.

[chevyjlewis]

makes me want a twin hammer

[Panko]

Latest photos. with new wheels and tyres. these are 10 times better than the stock tyres. the stock tyres are way too hard.

[Panko]

so this is off the road, again :(

i fitted a 3500KV sensorless, 2 pole brushless. and after only 2-3 weeks of running the new engine, pop. i have lost all drive. i have stripped a cog somewhere. i hope its just the spur gear (plastic) but i suspect its a little more serious. I didn't realise the actual gearbox cogs are plastic only, so i suspect they could be stripped. i can shift between high and low ratio, rev it up and hear the gearbox spin at different speeds, so i think I've blown it up :( SO, time to upgrade to the metal gearbox. otherwise, i was having lots of fun with it, until it went pop. with the brushless, it keeps up with my brother's Axial Yeti (stock brushless). so my TH is quite a fast little rocket, but broken...again :(

[Panko]

in the mean time, i have converted the front to a reverse opening bonnet, so i can fit a battery in the front to weigh it down a little. with the brushless, it has enough torque to pop the TH onto its back wheels, and in some cases completely over onto its roof. so i need some more weight over the front wheels.

also its currently running some super soft Mickey Thompson Baja King tyres. they are grouse for crawling, and stick like shit to a shoe, however with the torque of the brushless, i am literally shredding the tyres whenever i run it on a sealed road :/

[meatmonkey]

I see you've had this truck for over a year now. Way to stick with it.

Just curiously, what didn't you like about the stock shift servo-saver? My stock saver seems a little weak, but I tried it with a direct servo horn and it actually shifted worse, as far as sticking between gears and making the servo run hot. I am very particular about setting the endpoints.

I learned the hard way that while the stock rack is VERY sloppy, it somehow still binds horrifically. I burnt out a Hitec 7950 because it was binding so badly. I cannot reccomend enough the St. Erie dual bellcrank kit. It has transformed the high-speed handling from quirky and difficult to control, to straight as an arrow, easy to hold a line perfection. Plus, I can't stall out the servo due to binding anymore.

What holds the hood down on your flip up conversion?

[Panko]

I got the idea of the shift linkage off Squirrel (he is on Facebook and youtube) the reasom for putting a sprung shift linkage in is, so to stop the servo from burning out if the gearbox doesnt mesh properly, and puts the servo under load. It works like any manual gearbox in a real car, soometimes (rarely) it wont go into gear, and you need to either spin the motor, or role the car to get the gear teeth to line up. The thing is, if you shift gears, and it doesnt line up, that shift servo is sittig there buzzing away, trying to force it in. So i made the spring arrangement up, and made sure my end points were good so it would work properly. And its perfect now.

Thanks for the advice on the steering, ill have to check it out.

To hold the bonnet down, its just a big of solid wire that goes accross, with a body clip to hold it solid. Ill grab a pic in a second.

[Panko]

So its a little hard to see, but its a bit of steel wire, with a hook on one end, that i put through the holes on the strut tower, then a pink body clip on the opposite side to stop it from coming out. Between the strut towers where its fatter, that is a peice of brake cable outter fro a push bike. Just helps keep it tight.

[Panko]

So good news. The suspected stripped cog, was only the pinion had come loose and fell off the engine shaft.

[gac1983]

Nice rig GET THOSE WIRES CLEANED UP LOL