RMDW T's & T's & set up

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by razataz

Can some one help me I doing the bec and my wires are brown red and orange out of the bec . which wire is supposed to be yellow and witch one black . Thanks in advance

Brown is the black
Red is the red
Orange is the yellow

The red is always in the center
the darker wire on one side is always the Brown or black
the other lighter wire is always the Orange,Yellow or White

[rmdesignworks]

Thanks to "santa cruz crawler" for the pics from his thread on this tech tip concerning Venom's new diff lockers...SCC says the lockers are steel so thats a plus...the aluminum lockers out there just dont last. I suggested to SCC that he use a shim of some sort to make the Venom Upgrade lockers tighter in the stock plastic diff carrier housing. He did so using a piece of aluminum can and made a full wrap shim for each locker which made the locker sit tight inside the plastic diff carrier. Heres some pics from santa cruz crawler's thread for some referrence.

[santa cruz crawler]

RM for putting this in your thread, i hope it helps !!
I also have had no problems with my beer can shims, and for spare , i will jb weld the old spider gears that i removed...

[rmdesignworks]

From my build thread.....

OK.....so I've been at the end of an international build up since Saturday at about 8pm...I've been at the same end...over and over and over again...Firezook placed an order with me for some Pro built axles along with other stuff....not a big deal. I had a couple of issues with outsourced parts early on and resolved them and moved on into the build...Pro built axles include of course the Paradox Lincoln Lockers, HR lockouts-chubs-knuckles,Paradox trusses...

I got both axles together and discovered a significant hang up in the rear axle...as the drive shaft turned the pinion it would get real stiff in section of rotation...since the Lockers are welded gears and I have had issues before I took the axle apart...went over the locker very close..no issues found reassembled and rebuilt the axle...still binding.

Tore it apart again...the ring gear isnt truely flat on a hard flat surface so I shimmed the ring gear in one section between it and the diff carrier...reassembled...still binding.

Tore the axle apart 9 times...between Sunday morning and about 30 minutes ago.

Redrilled the shaft openings in the diff carrier, reset the diff carrier bearings twice, reshimmed the ring gear again, shimmed the pinion, used a micrometer on the ring gear to check gear pitch looking for a shallow spot in the teeth and did the same thing with the pinion gear, ran the pinion in my drill to check for out of round or bent shaft..............tried the axle with one shaft/lockout set up in and the other out then swapped, changed pinions and rings, changed bearings....that damned hop spot wouldnt go away.......

The hang up, as it turns out, wasnt even in the diff. The hop spot was being caused by the left rear axle shaft wrist pin. The pin was a couple of thousandths of an inch too long and was sticking out of the stub shaft which in turn was hanging up inside the HR Lock Out which I now know is not perfectly round inside where the stub shaft sits...

The moral of this little tale of Murphy is.....the last thing you look at is the last thing you need to look at...

If you have HR Lock Outs on your rig and have a tight spot in the rear axle that binds during rotation then check the stub shaft wrist pins and make sure they arent rubbing the inside of the lockout/s. Oh....BTW...it was only the left rear with the issue.

[Chappy4o]

Funny enough I have been having this problem either the pin breaks and locks up or it breaks in half and walks out then starts to bore a ring into the lockout till it finally protrudes

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

The hang up, as it turns out, wasnt even in the diff. The hop spot was being caused by the left rear axle shaft wrist pin. The pin was a couple of thousandths of an inch too long and was sticking out of the stub shaft which in turn was hanging up inside the HR Lock Out which I now know is not perfectly round inside where the stub shaft sits...

If you have HR Lock Outs on your rig and have a tight spot in the rear axle that binds during rotation then check the stub shaft wrist pins and make sure they arent rubbing the inside of the lockout/s. Oh....BTW...it was only the left rear with the issue.

Hmmmmmmmmm, I have about 7 feet of Titanium 1/4" rod .

[littletoyboy]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

Hmmmmmmmmm, I have about 7 feet of Titanium 1/4" rod .

And i know someone who would buy a set of the finished product!

[punishermustang]

I just put the venom steel lockers in my rig this weekend. The rear fit perfect its was real tight. No play at all. The front fit loose so I did the aluminum can trick! It was so tight I had to use pliers to get the case to close back together. Took it out for a run yesterday and had no slippage. Thumbs up santa cruz crawler

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

Hmmmmmmmmm, I have about 7 feet of Titanium 1/4" rod .

If you use Titanium rod then drill and tap the wheel hex ends for an M4 screw instead of threading them like stock...unless youre comfortable cutting the threads...just a thought.

maybe we should look at some stress proof steel or Titanium rod in 9 or 10mm and I can draw up some front shafts....not the stubs just the mains. Hmmmmm?!

[santa cruz crawler]

x2 on stainless lockouts , that would be cool , i like the look of stainless stuff, I spoke to venom the other day about the steel lockers, they did say there were a few batches of thouse lockers that were goofy,,
i asked if mabe the mold ,or casting was the problem , they didnt say , but they did say here is a fresh pair of lockers that will fit perfect , they should be here in the morning.
The person who i spoke to was able to looked at the thread here on rcc and said , wow ,,, who makes this paradox vr2 stuff , I sent him your way thomas !! he also said he had just finished his creeper and he would be starting a thread in here as soon as he checked out the creeper board a little more !! venom rocks

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

If you use Titanium rod then drill and tap the wheel hex ends for an M4 screw instead of threading them like stock...unless youre comfortable cutting the threads...just a thought.

maybe we should look at some stress proof steel or Titanium rod in 9 or 10mm and I can draw up some front shafts....not the stubs just the mains. Hmmmmm?!

We need to talk man, I'm welding up my stand today, it took me a while because I wanted a 10 ga. plate for the drip tray that I have to fab, and should have my baby up and running by this weekend.

[28offroader]

Bump for tips 1 and 2!!!


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

[farlok72]

What's the best way to get a response from rmdw to find out about an order I placed on 4-15? I sent a PM from this site and I sent an email directly to them but I haven't heard back.

The question was about how long does it take to make and ship a complete set of axle trusses?

Thanks

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by farlok72

What's the best way to get a response from rmdw to find out about an order I placed on 4-15? I sent a PM from this site and I sent an email directly to them but I haven't heard back.

The question was about how long does it take to make and ship a complete set of axle trusses?

Thanks

Identifying yourself would help...I assume the Order Email on Paypal was OTERO?

I havent received any Pm's or emails regarding your order...unless you sent something under a different name...but I have no PM's from farlok72...and I did not find any emails from R. Otero.

If Otero is the email used...then the order was shipped and is enroute.

[farlok72]

Yup that's my order. Thanks for the response. I can't wait to get my product so I can get back to wheelin.

Thanks again.

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by farlok72

Yup that's my order. Thanks for the response. I can't wait to get my product so I can get back to wheelin.

Thanks again.

I need you to forward the email/pm's you sent so I can get to the bottom of why you couldn't a hold of me....

EDIT: I did find an email from 4-20-2012 in my info@rockymountaindesignworks.com email...I have all of my email accounts set to forward to my primary business email accounts and for some reason this email did not forward...for this I am sorry...I will look into it.

I did reply to your email and provided tracking info which shows your package delivered 4-23-2012 @ 5:31pm

[rmdesignworks]

I figured I would post this in here instead of in my thread as this is more of a neutral thread....not meaning to irritate anyone either...but...when I mention to someone, anyone to post questions in their own build thread it has to do with several factors...not just paying for bandwidth. Looking at other forums and how they jump around and get all mixed up with this and that makes the forums jumpy. When questions by the same person are posted their thread you get a feel for where the information is at...where do I look for this answer or that one? Easy...look here, here,,,here,,,,,,here and there. A question with a short answer that doesnt get settled winds up 5-10 pages back and becomes part of the white noise. When you come into the Venom forum you can find everything you need on page one...up to page three maybe...go into other forums and you can read 6 pages deep and never see anything that relates to what you need...then suddenly find it...read a little more and find it posted again. Im not the Forum Police as Ive been called..or a POST NAZI...Im just trying to keep the forum that we all use so much as clean as it can be so its easier to use for us and new people who come in. If a new person comes in and looks...actually reads every thread on page one...they have all the Creeper info they could ever hope to have.

I apologize to anyone who has felt targeted or picked on for me trying to make our Creeper forum better then other forums...I never intended to annoy anyone or pi$$ them off or anything else. Its always been a genuine effort for only one purpose...

[jojo303d]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

I figured I would post this in here instead of in my thread as this is more of a neutral thread....not meaning to irritate anyone either...but...when I mention to someone, anyone to post questions in their own build thread it has to do with several factors...not just paying for bandwidth. Looking at other forums and how they jump around and get all mixed up with this and that makes the forums jumpy. When questions by the same person are posted their thread you get a feel for where the information is at...where do I look for this answer or that one? Easy...look here, here,,,here,,,,,,here and there. A question with a short answer that doesnt get settled winds up 5-10 pages back and becomes part of the white noise. When you come into the Venom forum you can find everything you need on page one...up to page three maybe...go into other forums and you can read 6 pages deep and never see anything that relates to what you need...then suddenly find it...read a little more and find it posted again. Im not the Forum Police as Ive been called..or a POST NAZI...Im just trying to keep the forum that we all use so much as clean as it can be so its easier to use for us and new people who come in. If a new person comes in and looks...actually reads every thread on page one...they have all the Creeper info they could ever hope to have.

I apologize to anyone who has felt targeted or picked on for me trying to make our Creeper forum better then other forums...I never intended to annoy anyone or pi$$ them off or anything else. Its always been a genuine effort for only one purpose...

couldnt of said it any better.

[rmdesignworks]

Straight from Venom's site...tech info for the Safari and its stock electronics...

The Creeper Safari RTR includes the DIG Unit pre-installed and powered by a powerful 35T 550 brushed motor. Comes with the VR3T 3Ch FM Radio with 15 Model Memory. New body mounting posts are included to mount almost any body along with front and rear bumpers to complete the scale realism. Available in Green or Blue.

Features:

Pre-painted Safari Polycarbonate Body
Front and Rear Locking Differentials
Beadlox 2.2in Crawling Wheels
Ridge Line 2.2in Competition Crawler Tires
Memory Foam Inserts
40 Degrees of Steering Deflection
Over 70 Degrees of Suspension Articulation
Internal Anti-roll Springs
True Triangulated 4-Link Suspension
Sealed Gear Box
Factory Installed DIG Unit
VC Drive System
Centered Drive Line
Scale chassis and body post set

Specifications:

Age Rating: 14+
Scale: 1:10
Length: 18.75 in (476.25 mm)
Height: 10.12 (257 mm)
Weight: 5 lb (2.27 kg)
Wheelbase: 12.5 in (317.5 mm)
Tire Dims: 127 x 55 R2.2
Motor or Engine: 35T 550 Brushed Motor
Batteries: 6-7 Cell NiMH or 2-Cell LiPO (Not Included)
Charger: Not Included
Radio: VR3T 3-Ch 27MHz FM TX/RX
Servos: Steering Servo: 1825 - Venom High Torque DIG Servo: 8270 Venom Mini Servo
ESC: 240A 1/10th Scale Brushed ESC

Recommended Batteries:
1532-7.2V 3000mAh NiMH
1554-20C 7.4V 4000mAh LiPO.Any size 2S (2 cell) lipo will work...from 800mah on up
ESC Specifications:
Continuous Current: 240amps forward, 160amps reverse
BEC: 5V/ 1AThe onboard BEC is not strong enough for the steering servo to work right...get a Castle Creations 10amp BEC.Especially if the servo is upgraded...300oz/in +.
Dimensions: 32 x 32 x 22 mm
Weight: 1.6 oz (45.35 g)
Waterproof: YesPeople have had issues with water.
Over Voltage Protection: Yes
Connector: EC3

Required Items:

Battery: 6-7 Cell NiMH or 2-Cell LiPO
Charger: Compatible with choice of battery

[corey900rr]

I used rmdw tips and tricks a few years ago when i first bought my creeper. They really work well and two years later i basically have the same basic set up. Kudos go to you my friend!