I got a 97' cherokee, now what lol

[jetboat]

as long as you can get some slip from the driveline its ok to use 4wd. I never use 4wd on ice, you cant feel the vehicle slip so you cant correct until too late.

Between teh 2, I would go with the 97 xj. Most of the wear items are real easy to fix and xj's are dirt cheap for parts.

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by demonoid369

also I keep meaning to ask but forget easily, the 231 has no diff so on road use of the 4wd is bad but what if its snowy? like ice and snow is it alright or not to use it. reason for asking is if I went to mt hood and there is obviously going to be snow, I'd hate to be driving around in 2wd

it's just dry pavement that will hurt the t-case if you run it in 4-hi, snow covered or even really wet pavement won't be an issue. If you really like the XJ, see if you can have a garage put it on the lift, yank the tires and have a good once-over done to it. It could be the best $$ you will spend before buying a used vehicle.

I also agree that between the 2, the XJ looks like the better vehicle.

[demonoid369]

who's got a jeep?? this guy!!
got the 97 one with the bush guard, took it to a auto shop and had them inspect it before I purchased it. its got usual wear; shocks, standard oil leak, but amazingly the only bushings that were wore out was the sway bar ones, everything else was tight
slight almost not noticeable crack on the manifold, had the updated one with the ribs allowing for better expansion and what not. so later I'll replace it. can you get the updated manifolds?
electrical system is great, the only thing was the battery was kinda low on juice so by dead winter it'll need replacing.
amazingly it has the 8.25 rear axle so that makes me happy.
has tow package, roof rack, brush guard, grappler tires?(some form of off roading tire)
the ball joint/what ever the joint is called thats allows your front tires to turn are a slight bit rusted, the mechanic(which I'll give great praise to) said on road driving it'll be fine for a bit but it'll be good to get them replaced but if I do off roading, they most likely can break lol
other than that, the jeep is in great running shape, so I got me a pretty great deal I think.

[jetboat]

replace the ball joints sooner than later. You dont want one to break and they seem to always go at 70mph in rush hr traffic.

Buy a Good battery, dont just get a cheap one.

The tires look pretty big for no lift. When you buy a lift go with new springs. DONT cheap out and get spacers and blocks. They will end up tearing up the suspension. Ive had Rusty's Offroad and they were great for the price.

For the sway bar, replace it with one with quick detach ends. Definite improvement offroad.

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

[demonoid369]

I was thinking a cheap 2" lift would set it right, what about the rear? is it longer shackles or an extra leaf that raises it? for higher lifts I know steering geometry or something needs to be done to accommodate the higher lift but as of right now, is that something I would need to do to? or is it as simple as just adding a longer coils upfront and whatever you do to lift the rear?

[jetboat]

I highly recommend a full spring lift with a vehicle that age

Rusty's XJ Cherokee 3" Spring Pack Lift Kit - XJ Cherokee ('84-'01) - Jeep Suspension Lift Kits - Jeep Suspension

The reason being, your stock springs are not the height they came from teh factory. They have worn and compressed with age. Plus, if you had a heavy driver it most likely sags on the DS. Its not much to do it right the first time.

You will need an alignment once you complete the lift. $70 at sears will take care of it for you. Once the lift is done you may or may not need an sye or a trans drop. The trans drop is the cheapest sine its just some spacers and longer bolts. My old $180 xj didnt need one but I know several do, might be best to just order it at the same time.

Slip Yoke Eliminator SYE Kit - NP231 Transfer Case Short Shaft Conversions

[WICKEDWOLFRC]

I see no need for a SYE unless you're going offroad with a 2.5" lift. And a tcase drop probably isn't needed either unless you're going higher than 3.5".

If/when I ever get another XJ it will get an Old Man Emu lift or Teraflex, but I wheel my rigs. Both with rear lift springs and adjustable front links.

I've lifted and driven a lot of differant rigs. If you aren't going to wheel it rear blocks are fine, they only limit your articulation offroad.

Drive it as is and have fun with it, wheel it stock and upgrade as needed.

Just my $.02

[demonoid369]

ya right now I'm only going to upgrade or replace the parts needed like ball joint, manifold possibly, and the fog light(mainly I think its pointless to have lights that dont work)

afterwards I'll do a 3" lift, nothing super spectacular, just able to give me more room for either a bigger tire when needed and clearance.

to all that have cherokees, how did you replace your tranny filters?
took it to jiffy lube to get the oild and tranny fluid changed, took about 2 1/5 to 3 hours but it was mainly do to the oil pan plug had a hvac plug so we talked about it and didnt know if it had been installed properly and they didnt do hvac and if they took it out and added a plug themselves............
lol then they showed me the exhaust tubing is in the way of dropping the tranny pan so I could only do a flush system that worried me the most with possible shaving and what not coming out of their collection points and screwing my tranny.

[jetboat]

sounds to me like your exhaust was routed improperly in the past. If its in the way of the trans pan, that it will drag on everything offroad.

Changing your oil is about the easiest thing in the world to do on a vehicle. Do it yourself and dont take it to the drop outs at jiffylube. I would also recommend running full synthetic and a good filter.

[demonoid369]

I have them do it just because its cheap, only $20 which is about the same if I was to buy the oil, filter, and doing it myself. Main reason was I'm use to cars which are lower and have to do more to reach the filter and drain but seeing how easier it is on the jeep than the cars, ill probably start doing it myself lol

The exhaust isn't directly under the pan but its on the side of it sorting blocking one side of the pan to unbolt it. Is that common? How should it properly look? Pics lol

[demonoid369]

So I noticed my engine was running a little hot.... Hot enough to where if water was to hit the hood, it would start steaming........ Looked at the pump, was fine. So I did a basic thermostat change and viola, temp went down lol I'm guessing after 190,000 miles it probably needed changing.
But that also brought up a key point I noticed, the instrument cluster has no actual temp or pressure gauge, just dummy lights. I can get a triple cluster with the temp, pressure, and volt and I know where to plug them into but I don't know where to feed the wires through or where to put the cluster at? Anyone do this for their chero and have a pic or two? Greatly help me a lot lol

[demonoid369]

so the cluster change is on the back burner, the ball jointswill be replaced when I can find a proper place to buy and a good deal. now the question is lift kits.....
debating either 3" or a 4.5" lift. and for the rear if I should buy a used xj leaf pack and add a leaf or make a bastard pack from either s10 or dakota leafs or buy brand new leaf packs. any insight to this guys?
trying to get some pics of this thing flexed and sorta off roading, kinda hard when I think no one here in salem does lol

[WICKEDWOLFRC]

Originally Posted by demonoid369

so the cluster change is on the back burner, the ball jointswill be replaced when I can find a proper place to buy and a good deal. now the question is lift kits.....
debating either 3" or a 4.5" lift. and for the rear if I should buy a used xj leaf pack and add a leaf or make a bastard pack from either s10 or dakota leafs or buy brand new leaf packs. any insight to this guys?
trying to get some pics of this thing flexed and sorta off roading, kinda hard when I think no one here in salem does lol

Unless you're going to do any sort of offroading other than dirt roads, a block and /or an add a leaf in the back will be fine. Leaf springs have spring rates just like shock springs for RC's if you start mixing and matching who knows what your going to get. Even lift manuf. vary the spring rate. Just go blocks until you can afford a sprink pack for an XJ or a custom set from a company like Deaver if you get to that point.

As for the overheating issue. My 96 had the same issue mainly while sitting in traffic or on the trail in the summer with the AC going. Theres a lot of "stuff" shoe horned in a small area with a small radiator and limited airflow from the grill. Couple things I've done/seen to remedy this.

Lots of guys cut vents in the hood...Some look better than others. You can also upgrade to an aluminum radiator but they can be expensive . Or add another electric fan to help push some air through. Of course all this should be done after you make sure the OEM stuff is up to par.

[WICKEDWOLFRC]

Oh yeah....Go Join up on North American XJ Association they are going to be your best friends

You're making me want to go buy another one to tinker with....As if I don't have enough projects LOL

[demonoid369]

Ya it turned out to be the thermostat, I had done that with my olds and I figured it was a simple over look for most so I changed it out and the temp went down. The vents in the hood ill look into, be interesting to see how others do that.

[demonoid369]

Originally Posted by WICKEDWOLFRC

Unless you're going to do any sort of offroading other than dirt roads, a block and /or an add a leaf in the back will be fine. Leaf springs have spring rates just like shock springs for RC's if you start mixing and matching who knows what your going to get. Even lift manuf. vary the spring rate. Just go blocks until you can afford a sprink pack for an XJ or a custom set from a company like Deaver if you get to that point.

As for the overheating issue. My 96 had the same issue mainly while sitting in traffic or on the trail in the summer with the AC going. Theres a lot of "stuff" shoe horned in a small area with a small radiator and limited airflow from the grill. Couple things I've done/seen to remedy this.

Lots of guys cut vents in the hood...Some look better than others. You can also upgrade to an aluminum radiator but they can be expensive . Or add another electric fan to help push some air through. Of course all this should be done after you make sure the OEM stuff is up to par.

My jeep will be doing more than dirt roads lol I can assure you that lol it's going to be my dd and off road vehicle so it'll be light to medium offroading so that's why I'm stuck figuring out if I should do a 3" or a 4" lift.

[WICKEDWOLFRC]

Originally Posted by demonoid369

My jeep will be doing more than dirt roads lol I can assure you that lol it's going to be my dd and off road vehicle so it'll be light to medium offroading so that's why I'm stuck figuring out if I should do a 3" or a 4" lift.

It all depends on budget....If you're going to wheel it hard do it right and it may cost more in the beginning but will be cheaper in the long run to do it "right" the first time. I'd go with the 4.5" with long arms at a minimum. Rock Krawler makes a killer kit with Deaver rear spring kits, these flex like crazy PN#RKSXJ450002 but it's also triple the price of some other kits.

Or go all out and convert the rear to coils too with PN# RKSXJ450003

I miss the days of $400 kits

Now keep in mind when picking a kit that the type of wheeling you do will dictate the type of lift you need. If all you need is clearance for bigger tires to get through mud or over the occasional rock a short arm kit with little articulation might be fine. If you're planning on crawling in Moab or the Rubicon articulation is a must. With a unibody rig like the XJ that could get scary too...too much flex along with the flexing unibody can cause issues as well.


Start getting into this you will need drivelines, a SYE kit, sway bar disco's, regearing, etc... (why spend all this time and money and not be able to utilize it)

[demonoid369]

That's why I'm on the fence because the 4.5" lift can get me 32" to 33" tires and that would help me significantly for the trails they have here in Oregon like browns and horsecamp. But how much more significant is that over a 3" lift and 31" to 32" tires? I know over 33" tires will need re gearing so that's why I'm not going any bigger. And I think if its 3" you don't need to worry about brake line or pit man arm and such right? And at 4" you have to get longer brake tubing, drop you drop box, sways, lower arms, etc.... Which in turn cost more so that's why I'm torn on which one. Do I go bigger or does a 3" lift and 31"-32" suffice?

[demonoid369]

The height I lift it will then dictate where I go and what I do, I know on a 3" it's easy to do a bastard pack with s10 or Dakota leafs since they're smaller trucks the leafs are softer and near the same spring rate as the xj. But if I go 4.5" I might just buy new leafs. Cheap is better so that does factor a bit in to it but not enough where I go directly to the cheapest route

[tedo]

From what it sounds like you want to do with it, I would go with a 3 inch Rustys offload lift and 31's. Since its your dd, a smaller lift and tires save on mpgs. Plus you said all you want to do light to mild off road.

With that set up its totally capable of ALL your needs. Have fun man! XJs are great.