Another Rig in the Crashfab shop......

[rangercat23]

I just might need to install one of those in my old ford.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by rangercat23

I just might need to install one of those in my old ford.

Make it a bottle of Dr Pepper with REAL sugar.

[crash]

Dr Pepper bottles are .000000003 thinner--never work

[rangercat23]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Make it a bottle of Dr Pepper with REAL sugar.

Originally Posted by crash

Dr Pepper bottles are .000000003 thinner--never work

Its glass, it will totally work!

[crash]

So Chris stopped off some more stuff. He had picked up a used rear disc setup. So I turned the rotors and looked over the calipers--they were badly rusted/junk. So I grabbed a new pair, pads and hoses/hardline to get it done up.



So next I started working on getting the shocks figured out. I have always been a big fan of the Bilstein's and I have used the 5125's before with great success.

For the rear since I have plenty of room to play with the 12" stroke will be perfect.

For the front I can set the shock at ride height at 25-26.5" so a 14" stroke is really looking like the choice from compression/extension..

[crash]

I gotta say I am glad Chris decided to go with the rear disk setup because the rears did not sound good rolling the rig back/forth and the backing plates were just beat to shit.

Well it took me a while to get the drums off. One side the shoe lining came off and both drums the retaining pins (hold shoes against backing plate) broke--I didn't care I just destroyed shit to get them off,lol---damn mess..



I built this tool like 15 years ago and it has been its weight worth in gold--saved me hours of work..

[crash]

Once you remove the backing plate you have a few different options due to the spline length on the retaining studs. You can simply put them back on the bearing cup but the splines will dig into the flange on the axle housing. You can also just grind an 1/8" of the splines off, use some 1/8" washers or use the backing plate and cut a section out of it. I just cut the backing plate and made these--pretty quick with a plasma.

Had I forgotten about removing some of the splines I would have simply done that.




The axle's were a mess too at the WM surface. Toyota in all there glory used paper gaskets between the drum and the flange. This made for a rusty mess and I wanted the rotors to sit perfectly flush. I went ahead and knocked out the studs and polished the flanges up.




All back together and ready.

[crash]

I got the rear housing stripped of all the little brackets.



I got the upper shock mount made/finished. I went ahead and did a multi holed mount. I wanted to try and new method and came up with this.



And time to get the brake lines done up.

[crash]

So I got all the needed mounts done on the rear axle and got it all painrd up.

[crash]

So I installed the calipers and all the brake lines I made up. Since the front is still missing hard lines/brake hoses I plugged the front port at the master and bled the rear brakes. No leaks and good pedal.









So the bed is ready to go back on..

[crash]

Another busy day. I had a suburban scheduled in for diff work but it got delayed till this evening--so I went ahead and dug into the front shock hoops and I ended up getting both done along with the missing hardlines to the hoses.

[JeremyH]

Looking good Crash!

[crash]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Looking good Crash!

Thanks Jeremy......

I will get a pic as soon as I get the front tires on---the owner came over last night and was like "wow",lol....

[crash]

Ok I got a chance to get back to things... I got new front brake hoses and got everything finished up and bled the brakes--now has full working brakes.





As soon as Chris gets me shocks I will finish up giving them a lil more support. Chris will need to pull the front apart and clean the front up and probably turn the rotors--badly rusted.

[crash]

Here are the bling wheels Chris had picked up.



My first concern was the backspacing as they are close to 4" so the distance to the frame is pretty close (too close) which also means the tire will likely dig into the springs pretty good even with 1.5" spacers on front.

Well I drug the other 2 out to put on the front since it was ready--there I ran into a much worse problem and something I didn't think of..




These are more than likely off a later chev and the inner diameter is too small to fit over the hub assembly. So I got to roll them damn things back into storage and dig the other wheels out..

[crash]

So I didn't let that deter me and kept moving forward.

I threw the hood back on and Chris had dropped off the front bumper so that also went on.



Since the rear was ready I had the neighbor kids come over and hoist the bed back on. Chris had also dropped off some step bumper he wanted thrown on so it would be legal for now--I just had to set it up and drill the frame horns,





I got the tail light wiring all done. I ended up having to go right to the terminals in both plugs since the wiring was melted. There are not lic. lamps so the harness is just roughed in to where the lamps go.



Its been a long time since this truck has had these many parts on it,lol..

So my list is growing short...

[crash]

This is the last big piece going on the truck--I just have to prep them a little.

[crash]

Ok so it took a little work to rework these a bit but they fit perfectly now and all done. So that pretty much wipes out 99% of the metal work on the rig.






Chris came up last night and was really happy with how they turned out.

[crash]

So Chris dropped off another column that had a good ignition switch assembly. I started by getting the old ignition assy out (you have to chissel the break off bolts loose and work them out). The tumbler assy was gone and I found the back side of the case was blown out--in an odd spot too since the lock pawl that holds it in is on the top and close to the end.



So it was perfect except it had a different connector on it. I was going to simply swap the connector body but it also had different terminals. The only option was to re-use the origional electrical portion of the switch but the area that turns was all hogged out. So I simply tore bore switch's apart and swapped the guts over to the old switch and since the contacts on the old switch body were perfect it made for a good solid unit.



Checked it out and works perfect and could not get the cam sensor code to reset after multiple start ups.

[crash]

Chris also dropped off another bumper but it was a little different than what was on the rig. So I measured it and it looked like it should work.




And yup it fit like a glove---looks MUCH better...




In the morning I am going to get the electric seats wired up and bolted down hopefully.