RCCrawler Forums

pigeonfarmboy · 09-29-2006, 08:40 PM

Forgot the Hitec 5996TG is a pig. Put in a lesser servo and it's all good.

EeePee · 09-30-2006, 05:44 AM

The instructions have only two screws holding the shifting servo in place. It didn't take long for the servo to become loose. I suggest using four.

My travel adjust on the DX3 is set at 48.

Insanity · 09-30-2006, 10:37 AM

what are you guys using for radios, i just got my truck and bought an attack radio but its not as nice as my spektrum radio

mudrinner4ever · 09-30-2006, 03:14 PM

the spectrum is RELE nice i just wish i had the money to buy another receiver for it. instead i bought a Hitec 4 channel for the same price as one rx for the spectrum.

Warn Off Road · 09-30-2006, 03:35 PM

SPRING TIP

This truck is very nose heavy, somthing like 70/30. Use a ligher seconddary spring in the rear or the front will sag pretty good.

NaZ-T · 09-30-2006, 05:23 PM

I'll be using my M11 cause I can rob an RX out of one of my other cars but plan on getting an Attack 4wd to add to the realism.

Anyone try using a clod body yet? I've got one sitting around, I might try it out. Anyone have pics of the rig with different tires and wheels?

microgoat · 09-30-2006, 05:56 PM

I'm using my JR R-1. The third channel is so versatile it's insane. 1-stop, 2-stop (for the Hi-lift and other 3-speeds), 5-stop, 7-stop or fully proportional, assignable to any button or rocker switch

Too bad they don't make it any more

Insanity · 09-30-2006, 06:07 PM

So it sounds like the radio I bought is the right one. I guess i have to pick up another reciever so i can put it in my gecko too

EeePee · 10-01-2006, 10:57 AM

I noticed something funny happening when the right front tire was up on a rock. The truck wouldn't steer to the left sometimes.

I found the upper leaf was blocking the steering arm. I did two things at this point. I added in the caster blocks to the front axle because it was actually leaning forward from the springs taking on a new arc, and zip tied the two leafs together. Now I've got a good caster angle, and leaf spring clearance for the steering arm.

In the first picture you can see the main leaf is slightly bent, causing the axle to lean forward. Which is terrible for straight line stability.

You can almost make out the difference in where the yoke is located also.

mulletman427 · 10-01-2006, 12:09 PM

Couple of things for you guys:

1. I'm getting really bad drivetrain binding from my build; every so often the truck just refuses to move (slipper clutch is doing it's job). Could it be the bushings? (my bearings never came in, so i had to build it stock for now). Or did something else go wrong?

2. My steering is jamming up if i turn hard to the right; the bellcrank turns all the way over and jams against the chassis rail when the servo tries to center itself. I'm using a Futaba 4WD attack radio, so i don't have any EPA (damn

); any suggestions?

3. Shifting isn't working too well; it sometimes doesn't even go into gear. That little shift collar doesn't have anything to stop it from turning when you shift to 3rd, so mine keeps skipping gears. Either that or it binds up really bad.

Hey, i'm a noob when it comes to 3 speeds; like i said i wasn't alive for the originals

.

EeePee · 10-01-2006, 12:35 PM

Mulletman427,

1. My truck would suck in second gear any time the tires would get in a bind. I'd shift into first, and everything was fine. That led me to tightening the slipper some more. Tamiya spec'd two turns out from all the way tight, I'm probably at one turn out now. If it's not a loose slipper, you should remove the motor pinion gear and spin everything while changing gears by hand to see if there actually is a binding problem.

2. I had the same problem. I lengthened the rod from the servo to the bellcrank. Then lengthened the rod from the bellcrank to the knuckle. So I've moved the bellcrank's center spot over further away from the chassis. I should have posted that earlier, I had that problem on it's first run, and after lengthening the rods it never happen again. I think the whole steering system is way too sloppy. I've since gotten rid of the servo saver, and use a DuBro arm, and the steering is much better.

3. You mentioned your Attack doesn't have EPAs. If my Spektrum isn't set up right, not every gear works. I suggest trying a more inboard hole on the servo arm if you haven't already. The shifting servo doesn't need much travel.

mulletman427 · 10-01-2006, 07:08 PM

Fixed some of that stuff EeePee, but i'm still having nasty binding problems and shifting issues.

It's definately in the axles now; i found that the rubber plugs had been pushed into the diff and were dragging on it massively (i put both the plugs and diff covers on, and the covers smashed the plugs into the diff). I think the bushings are dragging badly as well; i've greased them several times, but it's not getting in there for some reason. I'll just wait until my bearings arrive and then eliminate those from the equation.

Shifting i'm thinking is now inside the transmission; the servo isn't causing the problems. I've moved it several times already, and get the same results; actually on the last move i lost second gear. Didn't have time to change it back, so i'll just futz with it next weekend.

Let's just hope nothing major has been damaged inside the trans, or i'll have to try and get spares. It almost sounds like the shift collars aren't working right, like they're not engaging completely.

I'll keep trying; it's frustrating a bit, but i'll sort it out eventually.

SW2Kid · 10-02-2006, 02:56 PM

I have a couple of questins:

1. can the stearing servo be put in the frint beside the shifting servo?
2. what is this that I hear about locking the axles with a grub screw?

Thanks

EeePee · 10-02-2006, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mulletman427

actually on the last move i lost second gear.

Well that's definately not good, because the transmission rests in second gear. The springs inside keep it in second gear even if there is no servo hooked up. At least I think it did, it's already been too long to remember.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SW2Kid

1. can the stearing servo be put in the frint beside the shifting servo?
2. what is this that I hear about locking the axles with a grub screw?

1. The shifting servo horn and linkage is right there. You can see in post #22. I thought it'd be a great place too, but that shifting stuff is right there. I'm sure something can be worked out. Move the arm and bend the linkage around or something.

2. A grub screw goes into the hole and locks one of the axles to the gear thing (technical term) and locks it all together.

microgoat · 10-02-2006, 04:02 PM

Fortunately, the tranny gears are the same as the big rigs (that's what the mystery gear is for), so spares should be readily available by mail order. I'd be really surprised to find a shop that stocks them

Mulletman, I'm guessing here: if you've lost second the fingers have probably broken off the long shift selector on the gear hub, the one that never fully disengages. You running a lathe motor with a tight slipper?

Cory- "gear thing"?

EeePee · 10-02-2006, 04:08 PM

Yeah the metal thing that holds the gears.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mulletman427

I think the bushings are dragging badly as well

Oh yeah, make sure your knuckles are on the correct side. I think these are the same as the TLT and they are in fact right and left specific.

I bet that's it.

mulletman427 · 10-02-2006, 04:18 PM

Stu: nope, no lathe; just the 540 that came with the kit.
I don't think i broke the shift hub; i think the servo might just be out a bit (like it's resting out of gear). There's many adjustments i have yet to make.

First things first though; i have to find out what the crap is causing the entire drivetrain to be so bound up; something in either the axles or tranny (or both) is causing some serious problems with this thing. Like so bad i can't even shift to third without the thing bogging to a stop. So that's my first issue to sort out. i think i'ma sneak home tomorrow and snag it out of my room to work on up here at school; i need something to do besides homework, loafing, videogames, my girl....

. Sorry, had to throw that in there.

EeePee: hmm, never thought of that. when i built my TLT axles i never had any trouble; guess i just grabbed the right ones

.

Like i said, once i get it tomorrow, i'll be able to figure out what's going on.

toyota_yes_please · 10-04-2006, 09:27 PM

When I was puting my trany together I kept spinning the gears to make sure it was rotating freely, but about the time I got the trany casing on it I noticed it was binding in one spot on rotation. I took the casing off the trany and inspected all the gears and I found a shaving from the parts tree stuck in a set of gears. I have not idea where I was going with this....

mulletman427 · 10-05-2006, 08:40 AM

Ok, here's what i found when i tore everything down:

1.) The binding was in the axles, not the transmission. Once everything was disconnected, the trans turned freely.

2.) If you are going to stay with bushings, make sure they get plenty of grease AND you get the knuckles on the right side. Mine were swapped, much like EeePee thought

; combine that with the bushings inherent lack of free rolling, and you get bound up axles.

After removing all the bushings and putting bearings in their places, this thing runs like a dream now; had it out last night to do some bashing and had a blast. I lost a nut on the steering bellcrank (Put a locknut in it's place) and had the steering arm to the servo come off, but other than that things worked great.

perfictsib · 10-06-2006, 03:08 PM

i have a question why is it you are all putting the shorter springs on top of the main spring, normally they would sit under the main spring (on a full size truck). so they should not catch on the steering arm and it would increase the ride height by the thickness of the spring, i know it would make the spring slightly stiffer to compress depending which leaf you used but it wouldnt effect droop travel.

got to wait for santa to deliver mine.

10-01-2006, 10:57 AM	#29
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	I noticed something funny happening when the right front tire was up on a rock. The truck wouldn't steer to the left sometimes. I found the upper leaf was blocking the steering arm. I did two things at this point. I added in the caster blocks to the front axle because it was actually leaning forward from the springs taking on a new arc, and zip tied the two leafs together. Now I've got a good caster angle, and leaf spring clearance for the steering arm. In the first picture you can see the main leaf is slightly bent, causing the axle to lean forward. Which is terrible for straight line stability. You can almost make out the difference in where the yoke is located also. Attached Images

10-02-2006, 04:18 PM	#37
mulletman427 Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ambridge Posts: 75	Stu: nope, no lathe; just the 540 that came with the kit. I don't think i broke the shift hub; i think the servo might just be out a bit (like it's resting out of gear). There's many adjustments i have yet to make. First things first though; i have to find out what the crap is causing the entire drivetrain to be so bound up; something in either the axles or tranny (or both) is causing some serious problems with this thing. Like so bad i can't even shift to third without the thing bogging to a stop. So that's my first issue to sort out. i think i'ma sneak home tomorrow and snag it out of my room to work on up here at school; i need something to do besides homework, loafing, videogames, my girl.... . Sorry, had to throw that in there. EeePee: hmm, never thought of that. when i built my TLT axles i never had any trouble; guess i just grabbed the right ones . Like i said, once i get it tomorrow, i'll be able to figure out what's going on. Last edited by mulletman427; 10-02-2006 at 04:24 PM.

09-29-2006, 08:40 PM	#21
pigeonfarmboy Official Scale Nazi Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Monticello, IL Posts: 1,240	Forgot the Hitec 5996TG is a pig. Put in a lesser servo and it's all good.

09-30-2006, 05:44 AM	#22
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	The instructions have only two screws holding the shifting servo in place. It didn't take long for the servo to become loose. I suggest using four. My travel adjust on the DX3 is set at 48. Attached Images

09-30-2006, 10:37 AM	#23
Insanity Newbie Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: White Rock Posts: 6	what are you guys using for radios, i just got my truck and bought an attack radio but its not as nice as my spektrum radio

09-30-2006, 03:14 PM	#24
mudrinner4ever Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2005 Location: Minnesota Posts: 588	the spectrum is RELE nice i just wish i had the money to buy another receiver for it. instead i bought a Hitec 4 channel for the same price as one rx for the spectrum.

09-30-2006, 03:35 PM	#25
Warn Off Road Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Lake Mary Posts: 206	SPRING TIP This truck is very nose heavy, somthing like 70/30. Use a ligher seconddary spring in the rear or the front will sag pretty good.

09-30-2006, 05:23 PM	#26
NaZ-T RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Behind the wheel of an Axial R/C Posts: 1,921	I'll be using my M11 cause I can rob an RX out of one of my other cars but plan on getting an Attack 4wd to add to the realism. Anyone try using a clod body yet? I've got one sitting around, I might try it out. Anyone have pics of the rig with different tires and wheels?

09-30-2006, 05:56 PM	#27
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	I'm using my JR R-1. The third channel is so versatile it's insane. 1-stop, 2-stop (for the Hi-lift and other 3-speeds), 5-stop, 7-stop or fully proportional, assignable to any button or rocker switch Too bad they don't make it any more

09-30-2006, 06:07 PM	#28
Insanity Newbie Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: White Rock Posts: 6	So it sounds like the radio I bought is the right one. I guess i have to pick up another reciever so i can put it in my gecko too

10-01-2006, 12:09 PM	#30
mulletman427 Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ambridge Posts: 75	Couple of things for you guys: 1. I'm getting really bad drivetrain binding from my build; every so often the truck just refuses to move (slipper clutch is doing it's job). Could it be the bushings? (my bearings never came in, so i had to build it stock for now). Or did something else go wrong? 2. My steering is jamming up if i turn hard to the right; the bellcrank turns all the way over and jams against the chassis rail when the servo tries to center itself. I'm using a Futaba 4WD attack radio, so i don't have any EPA (damn ); any suggestions? 3. Shifting isn't working too well; it sometimes doesn't even go into gear. That little shift collar doesn't have anything to stop it from turning when you shift to 3rd, so mine keeps skipping gears. Either that or it binds up really bad. Hey, i'm a noob when it comes to 3 speeds; like i said i wasn't alive for the originals .

10-01-2006, 12:35 PM	#31
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	Mulletman427, 1. My truck would suck in second gear any time the tires would get in a bind. I'd shift into first, and everything was fine. That led me to tightening the slipper some more. Tamiya spec'd two turns out from all the way tight, I'm probably at one turn out now. If it's not a loose slipper, you should remove the motor pinion gear and spin everything while changing gears by hand to see if there actually is a binding problem. 2. I had the same problem. I lengthened the rod from the servo to the bellcrank. Then lengthened the rod from the bellcrank to the knuckle. So I've moved the bellcrank's center spot over further away from the chassis. I should have posted that earlier, I had that problem on it's first run, and after lengthening the rods it never happen again. I think the whole steering system is way too sloppy. I've since gotten rid of the servo saver, and use a DuBro arm, and the steering is much better. 3. You mentioned your Attack doesn't have EPAs. If my Spektrum isn't set up right, not every gear works. I suggest trying a more inboard hole on the servo arm if you haven't already. The shifting servo doesn't need much travel.

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10-01-2006, 07:08 PM	#32
mulletman427 Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ambridge Posts: 75	Fixed some of that stuff EeePee, but i'm still having nasty binding problems and shifting issues. It's definately in the axles now; i found that the rubber plugs had been pushed into the diff and were dragging on it massively (i put both the plugs and diff covers on, and the covers smashed the plugs into the diff). I think the bushings are dragging badly as well; i've greased them several times, but it's not getting in there for some reason. I'll just wait until my bearings arrive and then eliminate those from the equation. Shifting i'm thinking is now inside the transmission; the servo isn't causing the problems. I've moved it several times already, and get the same results; actually on the last move i lost second gear. Didn't have time to change it back, so i'll just futz with it next weekend. Let's just hope nothing major has been damaged inside the trans, or i'll have to try and get spares. It almost sounds like the shift collars aren't working right, like they're not engaging completely. I'll keep trying; it's frustrating a bit, but i'll sort it out eventually.

10-02-2006, 02:56 PM	#33
SW2Kid Newbie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bedford Posts: 18	I have a couple of questins: 1. can the stearing servo be put in the frint beside the shifting servo? 2. what is this that I hear about locking the axles with a grub screw? Thanks

10-02-2006, 04:02 PM	#35
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	Fortunately, the tranny gears are the same as the big rigs (that's what the mystery gear is for), so spares should be readily available by mail order. I'd be really surprised to find a shop that stocks them Mulletman, I'm guessing here: if you've lost second the fingers have probably broken off the long shift selector on the gear hub, the one that never fully disengages. You running a lathe motor with a tight slipper? Cory- "gear thing"?

10-04-2006, 09:27 PM	#38
toyota_yes_please Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville Posts: 169	When I was puting my trany together I kept spinning the gears to make sure it was rotating freely, but about the time I got the trany casing on it I noticed it was binding in one spot on rotation. I took the casing off the trany and inspected all the gears and I found a shaving from the parts tree stuck in a set of gears. I have not idea where I was going with this....

10-05-2006, 08:40 AM	#39
mulletman427 Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ambridge Posts: 75	Ok, here's what i found when i tore everything down: 1.) The binding was in the axles, not the transmission. Once everything was disconnected, the trans turned freely. 2.) If you are going to stay with bushings, make sure they get plenty of grease AND you get the knuckles on the right side. Mine were swapped, much like EeePee thought ; combine that with the bushings inherent lack of free rolling, and you get bound up axles. After removing all the bushings and putting bearings in their places, this thing runs like a dream now; had it out last night to do some bashing and had a blast. I lost a nut on the steering bellcrank (Put a locknut in it's place) and had the steering arm to the servo come off, but other than that things worked great.

10-06-2006, 03:08 PM	#40
perfictsib Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: uk s,wales blackwood Posts: 449	i have a question why is it you are all putting the shorter springs on top of the main spring, normally they would sit under the main spring (on a full size truck). so they should not catch on the steering arm and it would increase the ride height by the thickness of the spring, i know it would make the spring slightly stiffer to compress depending which leaf you used but it wouldnt effect droop travel. got to wait for santa to deliver mine.

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