3Racing Crawler Ex (EX Real)

[k_bojar]

For the record, the motor spacer is made of aluminum so it'll help with any heat disbursement

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[k_bojar]

Next part was attaching the spur gear to the main shaft and then mounting it to the gear cover. This time there was different size screws like the manual said

I missed a couple of pics along the way, but it goes together pretty easy. You'll notice a ton of space between where the e-clip attached. It does go away ones everything is mounted together

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[k_bojar]

Test

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[kaybo]

Some pics of Bag 2. This one seems to have to correct collection of screws

The motor is going to be interesting, I'm not much of a sealed can kind of guy, so we'll see how long this lasts before a rebuildable 35t goes in

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[StomperCrawler]

This is a very interesting design to solve pinion mesh issues. Has anyone seen this before? I wonder how it will work with varied pinion-gear design, casting, and CNC differences/tolerances.

Also, with all those holes, it doesn't look like there's much meat between the inner and outer "rings"; time will tell if it's enough "meat" to keep from separating as the weight of the motor bounces on the rocks.

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by StomperCrawler

This is a very interesting design to solve pinion mesh issues. Has anyone seen this before? I wonder how it will work with varied pinion-gear design, casting, and CNC differences/tolerances.

Also, with all those holes, it doesn't look like there's much meat between the inner and outer "rings"; time will tell if it's enough "meat" to keep from separating as the weight of the motor bounces on the rocks.

It shouldn't take too much stress, at least not with a 35t or even a mild BL motor.

Really don't need a lot of meat on the screw holes, just gotta remember not to over crank the screws to the motor can

Tamiya uses that same setup on the m-chassis and the TT- chassis and the non-Evo TB-chassis, and they survived

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[cartronicshn]

Nice, now i want one of these kits for the price i am going ahead an getting one.

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by cartronicshn

Nice, now i want one of these kits for the price i am going ahead an getting one.

So far it builds super easy, even the transmission looks like it'll be a piece of cake to assemble

I'll try to finish up the transmission tonight or tomorrow morning and post pics

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[jebster]

Looks good so far. What I'm most interested in is how much steering angle it provides.

[smog]

Originally Posted by kaybo

I'm disappointed about the body as well. But I can find about 8,000 D90 bodies on ebay. Sadly, the 3Racing is so damn expensive

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How much is the D90 from 3Racing? Perhaps it has the same specs as all of those ebay D90 hard bodies.

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by smog

How much is the D90 from 3Racing? Perhaps it has the same specs as all of those ebay D90 hard bodies.

Last I saw $65, plus $35 shipping

I was planning on going with the Xtra speed version

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[Brake Weight]

https://www.banggood.com/RC-110th-Sc...ottom-alsolike

[kaybo]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

https://www.banggood.com/RC-110th-Sc...ottom-alsolike

Cool, but I already have like 5 marked on ebay lol

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[Kylar]

Looks great so far!
Please post up some axle pics when you have a chance

[kaybo]

Got a little more done tonight - just a little bit more of the 2-speed transmission done. Really neat and builds real easy, assuming you're not like me and don't read all the directions

Shift fork is plastic, but the same super stiff stuff everything else is made from. I like that the fork actually snaps to the sliders, unlike my Tamiya hi-lift where it just sat. The metal gears are nice

When assembly the case, make sure you put the 5x10 bearing in (unlike me the first time) or else youll get some gritty noise that'll drive you nuts like me

I threw some 'extra ceramic grease on my gears, just because I could

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[Dungas]

these look like a pretty mad bit of gear for the money, i'll be following this build and probably making more bad financial decisions because of it.

[kaybo]

So, today was interesting. Had to pull the transmission apart multiple times, first time was because I used the wrong pin in the wrong places, then the 2nd time because I forgot a bearing. The last time was the final - I didn't follow the pictures correctly and had everything mounted upside down, so then I had to fix everything.

Other than my mistakes, it was an easy build as long as you following the directions and images correctly

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[kaybo]

Next step was to attach 1/2 the drive shafts to the transmission.

Metals ends attach to plastic 1/2 shafts. The nice thing 3Racing did was to have a sleeve that slides over the pic and pivot joint and they gets a beefy step screw to attach it to the output shaft.

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[kaybo]

This part is where I noticed my big boo-boo. When I attached the motor, I had the plastic piece upside down, so it all had to be pulled apart until I found where I messed up.

3Racing should have marked the parts a little better, but hey, I could have read the instructions better - so we'll call it a wash

Attaching the motor braces to the chassis was fun because of the plastic spacers, but once you get one on the one side done, the other will slide in. Then just repeat doe the other side

Drivetrain and motor attached

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[StomperCrawler]

If you don't like the gold M2x6mm beadlock bolts, here are a couple of cheap replacement options. I like the round button heads because they don't snag as much, but you could even go countersunk if you have the tools to drill the rings, and don't mind the tedium.

What I'm most interested in this rig is the steering angle it can do with the included CV front axles. I can't find specs, details, reviews, or even pics of it anywhere! :(