RCCrawler Forums

KC_JoNeS · 11-08-2010, 09:24 PM

Heavy? Haha....the aluminum blocks weigh nothing. The upper links? I will weight them tonight, but they dont weight that much.

Casey

Crawling Calvin · 11-08-2010, 09:32 PM

Yeah just me though. The one advantage of bigger rear D-links is you can tap the aluminum and use no nuts, more streamlined

KC_JoNeS · 11-08-2010, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Yeah just me though. The one advantage of bigger rear D-links is you can tap the aluminum and use no nuts, more streamlined

Well, these link mounts are made specifically for my VP 4 link plates...there is a good space for them. Anyway, the rear and the front are the same as I am 4 wheel steered on this thing.

Casey

Crawling Calvin · 11-08-2010, 09:35 PM

OOooh gotcha, I thought they were stand alone units like the ones Juan sells, my bad then

KC_JoNeS · 11-08-2010, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

OOooh gotcha, I thought they were stand alone units like the ones Juan sells, my bad then

Yeah, you will have a good idea when I get them mounted up. Hopefully, the angle is not too steep, and I can run them.

We will see. Trial and error...trial and error.

Casey

Crawling Calvin · 11-08-2010, 09:43 PM

Trial and error, its all in a days work. Heck at least the titanium stuff looks bad, to bad its not to fun on tools to machine though

KC_JoNeS · 11-09-2010, 06:23 PM

So, this was the goal....

I still have a couple bugs to work out with the lower links and the shocks, but overall, I really like it. I measured the weight of the links, and they are 9.8 grams each. The total weight of the link mount, links, and hardware comes to 33 grams.

Casey

Highlucks · 11-09-2010, 08:02 PM

Very nice Casey, good work.

KC_JoNeS · 11-09-2010, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by highlucks

Very nice Casey, good work.

Thanks Camo...yeah, will definitely have to try Calvin's idea of threading the aluminum to get rid of the nuts.

Casey

Crawling Calvin · 11-09-2010, 09:28 PM

Wow the links and stuff are waaaay smaller than I thought, I was expecting it to be some huge unit, my bad then

Judging by the image you should be fine threading into aluminum, just make sure to use a lil threadlocker and stuff should be fine

maybe a radius or two on the edges would make it look nice n snazzy

KC_JoNeS · 11-09-2010, 09:39 PM

Yeah, the mount is tiny. It is 1.5cm by 1.5cm by 2.7cm.

When I get some time in the next couple days, I will attempt the threaded option with some thread locker. As for cleaning it up...not quite sure what I will do to it yet.

Casey

KC_JoNeS · 11-17-2010, 05:55 PM

I have been having TT issues with my Delrin lowers, as they are really fat and must be inboarded to clear the shocks. So, I placed an order to RPPHobby for some Lunsford Ti lowers and ends. The TT has been dramatically reduced, and it handles awesome now. The only thing that slightly irritates me is that my custom made uppers are thicker diameter than my lowers. Oh well.

Casey

Highlucks · 11-17-2010, 09:47 PM

Lookin good MR. Jones. you could always sleeve your lowers with a clear pen outer to bring up the thickness and still be able to see the shiney goodness of the TI

KC_JoNeS · 11-17-2010, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by highlucks

Lookin good MR. Jones. you could always sleeve your lowers with a clear pen outer to bring up the thickness and still be able to see the shiney goodness of the TI

Thanks Camo.

I hear what you're saying. But, I will just leave it for now as the clearance is good and the Ti slides really well over things.

Casey

muddigger123 · 02-23-2011, 10:56 AM

Nice rig makes me want to get one of those chassis for myself

CPT.HOOK · 02-25-2011, 05:23 AM

what did you use for the roof plate on your frogger looks sweet

KC_JoNeS · 02-26-2011, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CPT.HOOK

what did you use for the roof plate on your frogger looks sweet

Thanks mate...I bought a clear GMC topkick lexan body, and cut the piece out of the bed area. I find that the easiest way to make panels.

Casey

Crawling Calvin · 02-26-2011, 08:59 PM

Casey, did you ever re-make the rear aluminum blocks with taped holes or not

KC_JoNeS · 02-27-2011, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Casey, did you ever re-make the rear aluminum blocks with taped holes or not

I didn't bother...this works fine...and I have been busy doing other things.

Casey

Dasher · 02-27-2011, 04:36 PM

Like your roof Casey, wondered how you did that. I cut mine out yesterday out of 1mm lexan sheet and gently heated it to form the curve ( hair driers do have some uses)! Built one chassis up today just to get the feel of how it sits - very happy, just some tuning to remove the link / shocks interfering with each other, will be better when I go with a proper skid. You can add the Venom one to your STRC bin list - it's just the same. Well, worse actually, threaded and they don't even line up properly. I'm running stock length links, although looks like I may change the uppers, not sure yet. This chassis is a non-dig build, overdriven front, underdriven rear, mirrored tranny (shafts down the rhs) and four point linkage. Upper Links are above the plate. Steering is not BTA (yet), 3 racing cvds with Hot Racing "C's" and Knuckles. Electrics are nothing special, Rooster Combo (55T) and DX3e. I've set it up on 3racing shocks, running semi droop, they settle off the car at 113mm as the internal spring acts as a limiter but sit really low when built I've got differential rate springs on too, horizontally opposed across the body with the left rear /right front being one grade higher. I'm going to them out swap out for Losi 100mm tomorrow just to see the difference - they're on Losi golds.

Looks to sit well. Will shake it down and then get the camera out once it's on the rock - you can add some UK gritstone to your international collection!

11-09-2010, 06:23 PM	#87
KC_JoNeS Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma Posts: 1,826	So, this was the goal.... I still have a couple bugs to work out with the lower links and the shocks, but overall, I really like it. I measured the weight of the links, and they are 9.8 grams each. The total weight of the link mount, links, and hardware comes to 33 grams. Casey Last edited by KC_JoNeS; 11-09-2010 at 06:28 PM.

11-08-2010, 09:24 PM	#81
KC_JoNeS Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma Posts: 1,826	Heavy? Haha....the aluminum blocks weigh nothing. The upper links? I will weight them tonight, but they dont weight that much. Casey

11-08-2010, 09:32 PM	#82
Crawling Calvin RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,927	Yeah just me though. The one advantage of bigger rear D-links is you can tap the aluminum and use no nuts, more streamlined

11-08-2010, 09:35 PM	#84
Crawling Calvin RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,927	OOooh gotcha, I thought they were stand alone units like the ones Juan sells, my bad then

11-08-2010, 09:43 PM	#86
Crawling Calvin RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,927	Trial and error, its all in a days work. Heck at least the titanium stuff looks bad, to bad its not to fun on tools to machine though

11-09-2010, 08:02 PM	#88
Highlucks Try to Bend it Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Perth Australia Posts: 3,163	Very nice Casey, good work.

11-09-2010, 09:28 PM	#90
Crawling Calvin RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,927	Wow the links and stuff are waaaay smaller than I thought, I was expecting it to be some huge unit, my bad then Judging by the image you should be fine threading into aluminum, just make sure to use a lil threadlocker and stuff should be fine maybe a radius or two on the edges would make it look nice n snazzy

11-09-2010, 09:39 PM	#91
KC_JoNeS Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma Posts: 1,826	Yeah, the mount is tiny. It is 1.5cm by 1.5cm by 2.7cm. When I get some time in the next couple days, I will attempt the threaded option with some thread locker. As for cleaning it up...not quite sure what I will do to it yet. Casey

11-17-2010, 05:55 PM	#92
KC_JoNeS Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma Posts: 1,826	I have been having TT issues with my Delrin lowers, as they are really fat and must be inboarded to clear the shocks. So, I placed an order to RPPHobby for some Lunsford Ti lowers and ends. The TT has been dramatically reduced, and it handles awesome now. The only thing that slightly irritates me is that my custom made uppers are thicker diameter than my lowers. Oh well. Casey

11-17-2010, 09:47 PM	#93
Highlucks Try to Bend it Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Perth Australia Posts: 3,163	Lookin good MR. Jones. you could always sleeve your lowers with a clear pen outer to bring up the thickness and still be able to see the shiney goodness of the TI

02-23-2011, 10:56 AM	#95
muddigger123 Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: inman Posts: 81	Nice rig makes me want to get one of those chassis for myself

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02-25-2011, 05:23 AM	#96
CPT.HOOK Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: CARO Posts: 65	what did you use for the roof plate on your frogger looks sweet

02-26-2011, 08:59 PM	#98
Crawling Calvin RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,927	Casey, did you ever re-make the rear aluminum blocks with taped holes or not

02-27-2011, 04:36 PM	#100
Dasher Croakin' across the pond! Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 272	Like your roof Casey, wondered how you did that. I cut mine out yesterday out of 1mm lexan sheet and gently heated it to form the curve ( hair driers do have some uses)! Built one chassis up today just to get the feel of how it sits - very happy, just some tuning to remove the link / shocks interfering with each other, will be better when I go with a proper skid. You can add the Venom one to your STRC bin list - it's just the same. Well, worse actually, threaded and they don't even line up properly. I'm running stock length links, although looks like I may change the uppers, not sure yet. This chassis is a non-dig build, overdriven front, underdriven rear, mirrored tranny (shafts down the rhs) and four point linkage. Upper Links are above the plate. Steering is not BTA (yet), 3 racing cvds with Hot Racing "C's" and Knuckles. Electrics are nothing special, Rooster Combo (55T) and DX3e. I've set it up on 3racing shocks, running semi droop, they settle off the car at 113mm as the internal spring acts as a limiter but sit really low when built I've got differential rate springs on too, horizontally opposed across the body with the left rear /right front being one grade higher. I'm going to them out swap out for Losi 100mm tomorrow just to see the difference - they're on Losi golds. Looks to sit well. Will shake it down and then get the camera out once it's on the rock - you can add some UK gritstone to your international collection!

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