01-25-2011, 10:18 PM | #41 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
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Big pimpin bro... thanks... feel free to highjack anytime man lol.
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01-26-2011, 07:39 AM | #42 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
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01-26-2011, 09:29 PM | #43 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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Thanks DT if I ever get any motivation to work on it (damn snow) i'll change the skinz so it doesnt look so much like its yours still. Oh and Ive been playing with my HH 35t with a 15t pinion and 4s lipo around the house. Holy crap is all I can say. Its just stupid. All I can think is why oh why didnt I use 4s all last season. The xr is gettin 4s for sure I remember your fb flip over test video. Picture that except jumping up the wall about 10'' first. Wish I had a way to record my roll over test. |
01-27-2011, 07:03 PM | #44 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
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holy 15t on 4s? That must be just nuts. I'm doing 4s in my xr for sure... still debating if I should sell my stuff on my fb and convert over to 4s.
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01-27-2011, 09:18 PM | #45 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Elk Grove
Posts: 225
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Okay!!!!! Everyone needs to knock it off with all this XR10 and 4s nonsense! I got my FB and now EVERYONE'S moving to XR's and now this lipo stuff, I can't afford to keep up arrrrrrrrgggggjhhhh. I had a Guy at my local course, walk up and say " wow, it lives", meaning the shafty, he followed this up by praising them and saying its a great place to start. I have to admit, its tough being one of if not the only shafty competing on a course designed around MOA rigs. What I need everyone of you to do is stick with a shafty and go back to stick packs, I feel this is fair, whadda ya say guys?. All kidding aside, keep up the great work, I get a lot of great ideas from watching these builds. |
01-27-2011, 09:22 PM | #46 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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LoL I hear you. Im not giving up on the shafty either. I am building a xr but I still plan to comp the shafty every once in awhile. Plus its just fun to drive.. You can keep your stick packs tho | |
01-27-2011, 10:08 PM | #47 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
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Here my thing... If I'm building a 2.2 comp rig I'll do moa... why bother with a shafty and dig? It's just a waste of time. But sporty is a whole other ball of wax. I built a sporty rig for sportsman and I'll build an xr for a 2.2 comp rig. Best of both worlds |
01-27-2011, 10:19 PM | #48 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: NTXRCC
Posts: 488
| I know my Fastback will go sporty when I get an MOA built |
01-28-2011, 03:25 PM | #49 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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My club ditched sportsman so sense I have a vp dig in it now it might as well stay there. I really dont have the need to make it sportsman. Plus if I did want to I can always unplug the dig servo and zip tie the arm, 2.2 pro shafty it will stay. It will be for those days when I feel I need to prove a shafty is still some what competitive. Yes my primary 2.2 comp rig is moa. I still have love for the shafty class tho, thats why I will keep it and continue to use it. The way it looks right now my pops is going to comp with it this spring. So I guess that means I will have to maintain 2 rigs for the upcoming series. I am excited to get him into the comp sceen more. I think this will be a great starter rig for him. |
01-28-2011, 04:10 PM | #50 | ||
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew.
Posts: 7,843
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But I do agree build a MOA if your buying a new rig. Quote:
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01-28-2011, 06:42 PM | #51 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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Thanks norm, ya the shafty did shine one time with a flawless day. I figured you would be happy to hear about my dad runnin my fastback. | |
01-28-2011, 08:25 PM | #52 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
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Ya shafties are good don't get me wrong but a great driver with a shafty or moa, the moa will be better lol. But ya shafties are a ton of fun... I would love if my pops would come.. maybe after my xr is done and if my wife won't drive the fb all the time I'll see if dad will try it... but I doubt it.
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02-19-2011, 06:14 PM | #53 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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Ok So I finally did a rebuild on the FB. I actually have a roller again as I type this but I'll start from the begining. If anyone has any questions fire away. I also finally installed some of the parts I have had for a long time and never got around to using. I put in a set of tubes similar to gunnars but I made them myself. I also got my felenfest lockers put in. I did steal the handwound motor and 7950 I had in it for another project... The shafty now rocks a hobbico cs-170 and a HH 35t sport, but hey it still rocks on 4s so tell I decide to buy another handwound this one will work. So I started by taking the pannels off and snapping some pics of the slapped together where ever it fit setup I was running when I first got the chassis from DT. It was the night before a comp and then it worked so I just left it that way. Then I pulled the good motor and put in the sport and the install got even more ugly after that. Here is the uglyness in all its glory Then before I knew it I had just a pile of parts. I then thought I wish I would have confirmed my RTR weight before I tore it down so I piled every last screw onto the scale to double check. Yep still 6.2 lbs. It should be well under 6lbs after the rebuild is complete. I took a bunch of pics of random items weight too as I was taking it apart. I still need to upload a bunch of pics so Ill post them up here and there. Front axle before mods rtr Rear axle before mods rtr esc and bec plus crap wiring Tranny vp dig and dig servo before mods Ok well that should do it for now. I need to sort the pics in my camera and upload them to photobucket. I'll update when I have more time. Things that are coming; Tube install, wicked clocked C's, lowered servo battery/ 4link plate, pain in the a$$ bta steering setup, all electronics uncased and moved to front links and front axle. I moved everything as low and as far forward as possible. And I am shooting for a RTR weight of 5.5 lbs with the same weight in the tires that I ran before. Should be a good time stay tuned...... |
02-21-2011, 11:49 PM | #54 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
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Right on bro looking good. BTA is a PITA for sure but the clocked C's are so worth the pita bta!
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02-22-2011, 05:52 PM | #55 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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Ya pipedreams I agree way clocked c's and BTA is such a pain in the a$$... well worth it tho! I still havent went through all my pics and uploaded them yet but here is a crappy cell pic of the madness the rig is a little tipped towards the rear from level in this pic so it does appear to be a bit much but then again I've been wrong before and a pic of the wicked clocked c's on my mrc |
02-22-2011, 05:54 PM | #56 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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02-23-2011, 01:52 PM | #57 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew.
Posts: 7,843
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Mike did you drill new holes in the axle and rotate the Cs to get that much clocking? Your drive shaft would indicate that.
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02-23-2011, 02:34 PM | #58 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,848
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You might have already thought through this but here are some ideas. Before I went MOA and gave my FB to my son I did some stuff that I think made a difference in terms of dropping and lowering weight. 1. I groved both the top and bottom of the skid with my drill press. It helps slide easier and also helps create wires channels under the tranny.. 2. I have a MMP on the back links and I went ahead and ran the battery wires through the underside of the tranny to try and get that weight as low as possible. Same with the dig servo. 3. I stuck my bec under my servo trey which was lowered as well. I tried to stick my WAS dig adapter under that as well but it wound up not working out and it is up on top of the servo tray with the battery. 4. I drilled the crapola out of my servo tray. (for weight) Moral of the story is that I was trying to get as much weight as close to the axle height as possible, and then reduce weight where possible. I trimmed all wiring to make sure no excessive wiring was running everywhere. Just after I wrapped that up a used MOA hit the market that was to good to refuse so off I went. I did drive my son's rig some this weekend and it was sure fun to be back with the shafty. Fun to play with for sure. Most importantly though Irok is nice build! |
02-24-2011, 09:11 AM | #59 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 750
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Ya norm I drilled new holes. I also drilled holes in the middle of the axle housing to attach the tubes to, just too be sure they wouldn't move. I have better pics I'll get up as soon as I can. If u got any questions let me know. Rick, if u look close u can see the bec under the steering servo, and the rx is under the other side. I am running a uncased sidewinder and mounted it under the front links. All wires are trimmed to length and motor wires are ran under the tranny. So ya I agree. I moved everything as low and as far forward as I could. I haven't drilled any holes to make things lighter.. Yet..... |
02-24-2011, 09:16 AM | #60 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,848
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OK. I see what you are talking about. Very cool. By dripping my servo/batt tray I was not able to shove much more under there than my bec which is unfortunate in some regards but I decided a heavy servo/battery is better to have lower than an uncased rx. I like the ESC idea though. Now I might have to tinker some.
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