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Thread: Scrappy Frog - The Poison Dart

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Old 05-25-2011, 11:20 AM   #121
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For the 9239912995th time, i changed the front shocks with SCX10 stock. Nothing changed concerning belly clearance - 2.87 inches ( i want 3 - 3.1 so f. bad). Analyzed, over analyzed - certanly they are a better choice than my modded Axial Alu Comp shocks. They perform better, though i mind using external spring shocks (the spring just pop-off from the bottom of the shock - spring holder it's called ??)

I really hate those tremmors when just pushing throttle just a little. They're still there.
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:24 PM   #122
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Well, worked a little bit at my other shafty crawler - green bitch - an SWX Bender's chassis based crawler, and i made my first "beef tube" - aluminium made, though, tomorrow i'll finish (i hope at list). Victory

I know Alu is not as hard as steel, but what the heck...i could do it and you cant compare an beef equiped axle with an stock one, even if the beef is Alu made.

Some tech spec....i bought an Alu tube, 10mm outer diameter, 1 mm thick. Measure it, cut it, drilled it, fixed it.....lovin' it
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:50 PM   #123
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Couldn't deal with the fact that front shocks are "classic" ones (with external spring), i got today an HPI Bullet (if anybody interested, i could search out the code) shock kit. Got some springs and throw them inside, so now i have internal spring shocks again. Buuuuuuut.....i did a little mod....here it is:


I "butchered" the shock cap, drilled and put in there an ... rodend. On the inside it is locked by a 10mm long, 3mm diameter screw. You know what ? I shot two rabits with a single bullet - better front suspension, with no rubbing at all (the tire @ full steering misses the shock by a few mm) and ... and....and....my belly clearance just raised to 3''.

Also, because i want give the word "insane" a new meaning....Scrappy got this:



Small, standard definition, spy cam. For specacular footage. Dont know how this thing performs - can't wait to see. Anyway , it was only 15$....

LE. Scrappy got an SAVOX 16kg/cm of torque....

Last edited by jimmyshor; 05-26-2011 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:24 PM   #124
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Tomorrow Scrappy will get a new ESC....wont tell you what it is...not yet
Q: What is a handwound motor ? (Sorry for being so silly)

Last edited by jimmyshor; 05-27-2011 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:16 PM   #125
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The new ESC is a Tekin RS Pro (the only one i could find in my country). Not very impressed though by it's performance - to be more specific, it's dragbrake. You cant call it dragbrake (or hillbrake as other refer it) - it's junk. To be perfectly honest with you, i regret the money i spent on this. I expected something totally different. Basicaly, it performs just like an stock AX10 ESC, but it cost a lot more.


To get a decent hillbrake i had to use all the features on my Sanwa MT4 and "emulate" one - i play with the lever for a little bit of throttle, throttle that keeps me from going downhill.

Anyway, swithced to an old LRP Crawler (i think it;s a handwund ??), and notice that in reverse i barely have any power.....anybody can tell me why ?

Also, drilled the wheels....
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:38 AM   #126
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The Savox servo died...the bad luck is haunting me.....damn it....
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:59 AM   #127
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Gees man you are having a really good run at the moment. Do you have the Tkin hot wire to program your ESC? Perhaps a PM to Ty@Tekin is in order he may be able to help get it sorted.
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:22 AM   #128
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I had a tekin FXR to in my rig and I loved the size of it and the ability to run 3s but that is pretty much it. I absolutely go crazy with the size of the Novak stuff I have but I can hang my truck almost comletely vertical and the Novak brakes will hold me rock steady, the FXR has more of a slow you down kind of brake. The brakes are just not there, I never got a chance to Hotwire program my FXR before it burnt up so not sure if there are more brakes available through programming.
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Old 05-29-2011, 02:44 PM   #129
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That's just what I want - the size of an FXR with the brakes of a Rooster. Think I'm just about settled on a HH but as I haven't even got the chassis together yet the ESC can wait a little longer...
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Old 05-29-2011, 03:45 PM   #130
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Well guys, here is my first outdoor session. Here is the final configuration:
a) LRP 55T Brushed Handwoond motor, 2oT pinion
b) Tekin RS Pro ESC
c) Eritex wheels - vented
d) Rover Tyres
e) Axial Alu Comp Shocks in the back, HPI Bullet shocks in the front, internal springs
f) Sanwa MT-4 Radio
g) DNA Dig unit, powerd by a Sanwa Servo)
h) Tower 11kg/cm torque steering servo
i) CKCR BTA Steering, custom modded
j) Gunnar PINS - THEY ROCK MAN !!!

Scrappy is a real performer, just a little bit of tunning necessary, mainly electronics related.

Please wathc in HD and pay attention at 2.08....that ROCKS !!!

Enjoy !!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6o9nMAT230

Last edited by jimmyshor; 05-29-2011 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:41 PM   #131
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Hey how does the dna dig fit in the chassis? I just ordered the poison dart and want to run a dig setup for my ax10 trany I have heard the vp hurst dig are the best? Just curious? Also where can I buy a dig?
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:56 PM   #132
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I run a Stage 3 Racing dig in my PD chassis.Its similar in size to DNA dig fits well but heavy.Vp dig is smaller and lighter I believe.You will be very pleased with the PD.
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Old 05-29-2011, 07:37 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xr10utah801 View Post
Hey how does the dna dig fit in the chassis? I just ordered the poison dart and want to run a dig setup for my ax10 trany I have heard the vp hurst dig are the best? Just curious? Also where can I buy a dig?
Correct the VP dig unit is the best. IMO . Heres the link VP Hurst
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Old 05-30-2011, 02:11 AM   #134
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Regarding the Dig Unit, from what i've read it seems VP is "the best" but since february it's "ETA 3-4WK", not it's "1-2 days"...come on guys, dont think it worth waiting that long.

I got HR Dig unit mounted on the other Ax10, works perfect, nothing to complain about. Well, maybe the fact that is pretty difficult to mount it on a SWX Chassis.

Ordered HotWire interface, but my intuition tells me i have thrown away my money. Well, we'll see about that anyway. In the mean time, can you tell me who can help me with Tekin settings ?
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Old 05-30-2011, 04:33 AM   #135
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I just bought and installed my Tekin FXR and used the Hotwire interface to adjust the settings. It worked first time for me.

The setup is quite simple. Just follow directions when the hotwire gets there. But, when you install the hotwire, of course, look to the Tekin website for the most up to date software. Then, do a firmware update on your FXR. After that, just make sure to set your cut off voltage to whatever LiPo you are using, and set your drag brake, etc. It is quite simple.

Casey
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Old 05-30-2011, 05:55 AM   #136
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Casey, i run RS not FX_R, but anyway.....tomorrow HotWire will arive and will see about it. But i thought that basic settings (like drag brake, for example) should be fully available on-sight, without needing the interface....but the drag brake i set without interface is C.R.A.P.....not to mention reverse power.....wich is SH!TTY!!!


Did you like the video ?
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:28 PM   #137
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Lovin' the video Jimmy ! I want see the footage from the Micro camera or did not survive the run ? It was missing by the end of the run.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:28 PM   #138
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"War report".....fu(k my luck....
I noticed yesterday on the rocks that my dig unit does not perform as it should so today i took a look. Nothing unusual, so i said to myself "it must be the LiPo, when it drops below a certain level, all the systems dont work normal...."...good ! I started to run some tests on a carpet, engaging and disengaging the dig....sudenly a really strange sound came from Scrappy...w t f. i said....

I looked at the dig in the back...everything was OK....i looked at the spur...holly crap....the pin from the JunFac driveshaft popped out...okay then let's put the Sh1t back in...no way man...no way....I torn apart Scrappy in my desperate try to unlock the damn junfac crap....no result....since al my options ran out - a used Dremel and cut the garbage out...

So from no on, i wont use JunFac anymore - that;s the 3rd pair driveshaft making the same problem. Why is crap ? I tell you why:
a) if you want the driveshaft to stay in place, you have to use threadlock
b) if you use threadlock, you wont be able to take it off
c) the pins keep popping of, no matter what

In the back i run Traxxas stuff, with Traxxas yokes. They brake too, but they are plastic, and to be honnest, they last longer than many others and they come cheaper.

Let's hope my turn of bad luck ends soon, as i am kind of tired of repairing and not having any fun.

@DRW Crawler - the camera did survive, but the footage taken is crap - you can see only the sky . It has quite a big focal range, and i have to relocate it in order to get something i could use.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:58 PM   #139
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So I guess you need some Junfac pins now?

On Junfacs, make the yoke setscrews 4mm, there is room to drill and tap.

If you get MIP's let me know

Last edited by gunnar; 05-30-2011 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 05-30-2011, 02:04 PM   #140
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Maybe someday i'll switch to MIP, we'll see about that...for the moment, i'll stick to Traxxas. I am aware these will fail at some point, but for now dont wanna hear about Junfac anymore

By the way Gunnar, your pins made it flawless...so far....happy with my purchase.
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