My Must Stop Buying AX10 build using Fastback II chassis.

[Crawling Calvin]

Sedonas depend, I'm a rover guy so enough said there in their element the sedona is nice...

Note on the hi-clearance links, make them so that they follow the bottom profile of the driveshaft and dont make it rub the rocks

[Crawford]

Weighted the new to me wheels last night.




Had some breakage 10 minutes into crawling today....





Hopefully that broken c-hub carrier will be fixed by something like this...



...If I can't find anyone to machine that out for me, i'll just end up buying a set of knuckles...

[Crawling Calvin]

What is it made from?

Not to be mean but that would be more than a set of knuckles and beef tubes!

Slick rims

[Crawford]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

What is it made from?

Not to be mean but that would be more than a set of knuckles and beef tubes!

Slick rims

would have been made from steel round stock, local forum member was thinking about doing it but I may just go with some axial clockables as those seem to be very popular and cheap, hopefully they work with the vanquish high steers...


Also, I didn't see it mentioned in the "longer beef toobs" threads, but are there beef toobs out there that work with the ax10 or is it xr10 only?

[calikingcrawler]

Hey bud. The beef toobs are made for the ax 10 and scx 10. Both long and original. They work awesome to. You can clock the C's To whatever you want. I run them on the front and rear of my scx10.

The mirrored trans requires no additional parts, just disassemble and reassemble the opposite way.

As for tires I run trimmed boss claws on my XR and LOVE them. But for the sandy stuff ur prolly in I would fall back on a old favorite and run white rovers with CI foams.

[Crawling Calvin]

The axial Clockables are great! I got it with hi-steers and no issues. Just use m3x8-10 screws on them instead of the set screws

I think the long tubes work with xr-10 stuff on an ax10, just don't take my word on it...

[calikingcrawler]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

I think the long tubes work with xr-10 stuff on an ax10, just don't take my word on it...

That is correct.

[Crawford]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

The axial Clockables are great! I got it with hi-steers and no issues. Just use m3x8-10 screws on them instead of the set screws

I think the long tubes work with xr-10 stuff on an ax10, just don't take my word on it...

Originally Posted by calikingcrawler

That is correct.

so which version works with ax10/ax10 stuff?

[Crawling Calvin]

Long is XR
Regular is stock ax10

I don't know what your machine capabilities are but the tubes are a sinch to make that said they are cheap! Plus it puts weight on the axle which helps reduce rotational mass

[Crawford]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

The axial Clockables are great! I got it with hi-steers and no issues. Just use m3x8-10 screws on them instead of the set screws

I think the long tubes work with xr-10 stuff on an ax10, just don't take my word on it...

I'll order them soon if no one wants to trade for sedonas lol which i doubt they will

[Crawford]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Long is XR
Regular is stock ax10

I don't know what your machine capabilities are but the tubes are a sinch to make that said they are cheap! Plus it puts weight on the axle which helps reduce rotational mass

aha, thank you sir.

trying to find 4 link threads, couldn't come up with jack so i'm reading on pirate trying to equate stuff to the r/c world lol.

ordered a d-mount, ordering c-hubs, and if RPP has one in stock an EEM double triangulated mount.

after that i'm thinking it's finally time for some shocks.

[Crawling Calvin]

D-links rock... If you need new upper links I got about 4' of 1/4" aluminum rod sitting from an idea that never became so if you need uppers shoot me abomination and they are yours for shipping

That said you can do some stuff with the stock chassis but an aftermarket is really a better idea. Heck I remember going from stock To my own home made one and going when I saw what the heck it walk over and up

- Calvin

[Crawford]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

D-links rock... If you need new upper links I got about 4' of 1/4" aluminum rod sitting from an idea that never became so if you need uppers shoot me abomination and they are yours for shipping

That said you can do some stuff with the stock chassis but an aftermarket is really a better idea. Heck I remember going from stock To my own home made one and going when I saw what the heck it walk over and up

- Calvin

Thanks Calvin I appreciate the offer!

I think I'm going to go with 8/32 all thread as I've already threaded all my revo ends for it and extra all thread laying around.

I also think i'm going to get rid of my high clearance links for now and try to find someone who wants to sell theirs down the road.

I've also been on the fence (money) about getting the fastback II chassis... Your not helping

[Crawling Calvin]

Fair enough! thought I'd offer

For now Delrin rods (or tubes with all-thread) work great for links. I've never been able to make any hi-clearance links for my self but Delrin is so slick it doesn't make a huge difference in my $.02! I know EEM has hi-clearance for stock ends (...) but it can be re-drilled and tapped for M4 or 8-32 and trimmed slightly for revo ends!

[Crawford]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Fair enough! thought I'd offer

For now Delrin rods (or tubes with all-thread) work great for links. I've never been able to make any hi-clearance links for my self but Delrin is so slick it doesn't make a huge difference in my $.02! I know EEM has hi-clearance for stock ends (...) but it can be re-drilled and tapped for M4 or 8-32 and trimmed slightly for revo ends!

I didn't realize it was that slick. in that case I may try to find some delrin rod around here and play with it i don't think the local home depot carries it though but

lazy question, what dia. do most folks go with? probably not 1/4", more like 3/8's?

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by Crawford

I didn't realize it was that slick. in that case I may try to find some delrin rod around here and play with it i don't think the local home depot carries it though but

lazy question, what dia. do most folks go with? probably not 1/4", more like 3/8's?

I use 3/8" lowers, 1/4" uppers. Some guys use 5/16 but I like 3/8, way more common.

Delrin is "common" but also "not common" I have some kicking around if you want a lil I tend to buy up for "planned things" and then they fall through and I wonder why I got Delrin rods growing out of my shoes

[forbid89]

I also use 3/8" delrin rod for my lower links. I picked mine up at the local Tapp plastics for pretty cheap. Also if you plan to make links make sure you pick up some of jeepindoug's drill guides. It makes it so much easier to drill.

[Crawford]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

I use 3/8" lowers, 1/4" uppers. Some guys use 5/16 but I like 3/8, way more common.

Delrin is "common" but also "not common" I have some kicking around if you want a lil I tend to buy up for "planned things" and then they fall through and I wonder why I got Delrin rods growing out of my shoes

I still have like 3 1/2 feet of 1/4" brake line, so I know how you feel.

Originally Posted by forbid89

I also use 3/8" delrin rod for my lower links. I picked mine up at the local Tapp plastics for pretty cheap. Also if you plan to make links make sure you pick up some of jeepindoug's drill guides. It makes it so much easier to drill.

I've seen those, kinda neat actually. beats trying to find center, then punching it, then drilling it, then drilling it bigger, then cutting it off because you drilled crooked. i might just pick up one of those.

Does anyone make delrin high clearance links w/ 8/32 studs?

[forbid89]

Originally Posted by Crawford

I've seen those, kinda neat actually. beats trying to find center, then punching it, then drilling it, then drilling it bigger, then cutting it off because you drilled crooked. i might just pick up one of those.

Does anyone make delrin high clearance links w/ 8/32 studs?

Do yourself a favor a get a whole set or at least the 3/8" and 1/4", cheaper in the long run IMO. You could always make a couple links for friends and get a couple bucks back or a least a beer.

[Crawling Calvin]

No joke I'll trade you the brake line for some Delrin

As for 8-32 your out of luck :/ M3/4 is most popular in the crawler world sadly for you. I Am 90% sure you could get some M3 links, and re-drill/tap but that's not the same in terms of ease... But begars aren't choosers!