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Thread: My Must Stop Buying AX10 build using Fastback II chassis.

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Old 08-09-2011, 12:39 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawford View Post
it's like the holes were drilled off. the motor is just too far back. Which is why I measured the holes and sent out pics to Juan to confirm they are right... next step is just figuring out wtf is wrong... I've been assembling/disassembling the trans/motor all day playing with it trying to get it to fit properly without luck. I keep coming back to the mounting holes every time.
since you brought that upp.. just went searching.. your going to hate me for this answer..

Im sorry to say.. BUT IT LOOKS WAY OFF..

look at the pics in the thread.. looks like your holes are mounted a few mm closer to the center.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:53 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by MRCCRAWLER1.9 View Post
since you brought that upp.. just went searching.. your going to hate me for this answer..

Im sorry to say.. BUT IT LOOKS WAY OFF..

look at the pics in the thread.. looks like your holes are mounted a few mm closer to the center.
V3's Good Guy Fastback
haha right on man I've been trying to find a pic of someone else's measurements! I owe you a taco Saturday since you can't drink beer yet

In his pic the hole is 3/4 from edge of the plate, mine is 7/8ths so thats explaining the 1/8th inch gap I have between the motor mounting surface to the frame.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:55 AM   #83
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haha right on man I've been trying to find a pic of someone else's measurements! I owe you a taco Saturday since you can't drink beer yet

In his pic the hole is 3/4 from edge of the plate, mine is 7/8ths so thats explaining the 1/8th inch gap I have between the motor mounting surface to the frame.
oh dont worry man. Its part of being in a forum and it feels great to help other people

Ah well, at least we know whats wrong.. I think if Juan can get the message by tomorrow, and sends it by tomorrow, you could possibly be able to get the plate before saturday. fingers crossed.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:11 AM   #84
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oh dont worry man. Its part of being in a forum and it feels great to help other people

Ah well, at least we know whats wrong.. I think if Juan can get the message by tomorrow, and sends it by tomorrow, you could possibly be able to get the plate before saturday. fingers crossed.
reading through the thread. found this...

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Originally Posted by version_three View Post
There is one complication... The skid was drilled for a losi trans, so I'll also have to re-drill it for the axial trans.
Not to say the holes still aren't off... but it's funny holding it up to the picture, the holes match up remarkably well. and I still have the off-set issue. Juan is the final word hopefully he'll be back in action tomorrow.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:15 AM   #85
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ooh, should have read instead of looking at just pics. my bad.

Lol! this it self is getting complicated. but it seems like your tranny could go up forward 1/8"
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:17 AM   #86
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ooh, should have read instead of looking at just pics. my bad.

Lol! this it self is getting complicated. but it seems like your tranny could go up forward 1/8"
get's more complicated...

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Originally Posted by DickyT View Post
I have a drilled skid at home though, I can take some pics for you with a tape measure in place so you can see where i mounted. It is not the "stock" location for fastbacks though. My placement requires motor plate trimming as it is shoved as far forward as possible.

Nice start to the FB, I love those panels!
Those pics' dicky posted aren't factory location....
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:19 AM   #87
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oh snap.. busted! LOL
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:24 AM   #88
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After searching.. Seems like the skid wasnt drilled for the stock endbell too, since the "modified" motors are clearing just fine without a complaint.
Sportsman Fastback II
fitting ax10 tranny in FASTBACK chassis

Last edited by MRCCRAWLER1.9; 08-09-2011 at 01:39 AM.
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:04 AM   #89
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The pictures of DickyT's skid are a forward mounting location. This is something I did with my own personal skid, Richard liked it and asked for the same thing. The forward mounting of the motor requires grinding down the motor mounting plate to clear the chassis in the front...something Richard and I both didn't mind doing.

This actually started way back before the Fastback with the FF-4 (FF-4s and Fastbacks share the same geometry)



Only a few people have asked for this to be done, and most people prefer the standard mounting location. The standard location is more driveshaft friendly, and gives more room overall. Richard is just one of those rogue kind of crawlers.

Your problem looks to be the way the can extends out the back on the stock motor. The photos of jlsandkes truck shows the same skid you have...I drill them all together in batches.

A few solutions:

1. New motor with a more exposed endbell like the pictures in jlsandkes thread. I don't know much about the stock motors, but I only run Holmes motors now and love them. Brood is also a very sought after motor.

2. New skid with a forward mounting location.

3. Drill the skid you have now on the other side. The skid is symmetrical (as you have already discovered by flipping it). I have had people order a blank skid before, screw up the holes when drilling and then just flip it and drill again.

Let me know what you decide on.

Last edited by C*H*U*D; 08-09-2011 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:17 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post
The pictures of DickyT's skid are a forward mounting location. This is something I did with my own personal skid, Richard liked it and asked for the same thing. The forward mounting of the motor requires grinding down the motor mounting plate to clear the chassis in the front...something Richard and I both didn't mind doing.

This actually started way back before the Fastback with the FF-4 (FF-4s and Fastbacks share the same geometry)



Only a few people have asked for this to be done, and most people prefer the standard mounting location. The standard location is more driveshaft friendly, and gives more room overall. Richard is just one of those rogue kind of crawlers.

Your problem looks to be the way the can extends out the back on the stock motor. The photos of jlsandkes truck shows the same skid you have...I drill them all together in batches.

A few solutions:

1. New motor with a more exposed endbell like the pictures in jlsandkes thread. I don't know much about the stock motors, but I only run Holmes motors now and love them. Brood is also a very sought after motor.

2. New skid with a forward mounting location.

3. Drill the skid you have now on the other side. The skid is symmetrical (as you have already discovered by flipping it). I have had people order a blank skid before, screw up the holes when drilling and then just flip it and drill again.

Let me know what you decide on.
Time for a new motor I think juan

I didn't realize the stock motor was so long. Now which hh motor to go with... Hmm....

Thanks mrc and juan!
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:48 AM   #91
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not to ruin them for you, but ive read that bearings fail, brushes fail, the shaft gets unbalanced.. i think ive posted a thread and someone said that.. ill go digging for it

Well, actually.. going back to the thread.. seems like its okay, but this is what i read of the most bad comment on them from another user.
Integy Pro Lathe motors any good?

wow...this was like three pages ago or something...lot's of chat since I visited last. I'm running 55t Integy's...I must admit, I take care of them though...clean the com, check the brushes and keep the ends well lubed. that's from the old days I guess back when all you had was a brushed motor. I haven't seen any issues with them so far...and for the price, well I guess I can't complain even if one or both failed.

MRC seems to like the wheel speed a lot...seems like a 35t might be a bit much for your rig Crawford....just my 2 cents...
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:17 AM   #92
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wow...this was like three pages ago or something...lot's of chat since I visited last. I'm running 55t Integy's...I must admit, I take care of them though...clean the com, check the brushes and keep the ends well lubed. that's from the old days I guess back when all you had was a brushed motor. I haven't seen any issues with them so far...and for the price, well I guess I can't complain even if one or both failed.

MRC seems to like the wheel speed a lot...seems like a 35t might be a bit much for your rig Crawford....just my 2 cents...
I'm kinda curious how large the differences are in the motors to be honest... What do you think post higher turn?
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:40 PM   #93
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higher wind = more torque...and less wheel speed...I suppose it's a matter of prefferance...I see plenty of wheel speed out of my 55's though. Nothing like Ink's an Meatwad's rigs...but I didn't build this for speed either. When I build the tuber/scaler..that might be quick though

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Old 08-09-2011, 07:08 PM   #94
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Finished my shock cap mod.... Looks like ass, don't care. It works and wont leak.

My sweet vice:



Pilot hole...

Apparently the internal recess that looks like a centering mark/punch is actually not aligned with the outside eyelet.... Found out the hard way on 3 other caps.





My super duper drill press... Need to finally get in a house w/ a garage.



Special Sauce



Just take a Q-tip and while going around the edge, rotate the tip to get the excess out, helps to poke the UB down with something small like a tooth pick.



Shortened Revo ends



All done up & curing. What also helps seal everything is dabbing the UB onto the rear bladder/seal and then put that in the top of the shock and screw the cap on to seat it till it cures.

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Old 08-09-2011, 08:52 PM   #95
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Oh, Picked up some MP grease today, don't believe in spending 15 bucks an oz. on some mystery blend with no specifications or MSDS sheets to back up the cost.... 14oz. 5.99... can't beat that.



packed a pill bottle full of this crap to throw in the kit i'm making.
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:08 PM   #96
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Ya...the gear science stuff seemed a bit overplayed...I use marine grease...every time I've pulled the tranny apart the stuff is still stuck to the gears. 14 Oz is going to last a long time...I think it was $6.99
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:15 PM   #97
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So I noticed different #'s on your rod ends...that's not an issue is it?

I've never seen that done Crawford....pretty interesting...the gasket stuff keeps it pretty sealed ?? I have an issue with my tops and this would cure it...but I 'm chicken to try it. My tools are limited
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:16 PM   #98
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Ya...the gear science stuff seemed a bit overplayed...I use marine grease...every time I've pulled the tranny apart the stuff is still stuck to the gears. 14 Oz is going to last a long time...I think it was $6.99
That stuffs great to but nobody had it. I wish someone carried Schaeffer's 274 grease.
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:26 PM   #99
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MRC seems to like the wheel speed a lot...seems like a 35t might be a bit much for your rig Crawford....just my 2 cents...
not really.. i am a down to earth crawler who loves going slow and taking my time.. but once i unleash the 1/8 buggy side of me.. oh man... you will just miss my xr in a blink of an eye
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:29 PM   #100
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I'm kinda curious how large the differences are in the motors to be honest... What do you think post higher turn?
Personally, i believe you need a perfect balance of torque and speed.. too little speed, and your just not going to make a few obstacles.. ESP at monterey. there are some climbs that do require a lot more wheel speed.

but then... having too much speed will have its downsides while trying to get technical on the course.

personally, i believe 45T is best of both worlds. not too fast, not too little torque. Just about right..

but since you've been running a 27T.... AND stock motor.. seems like a modified 35T will fit you better, because the jump from 27t to 45T is huge...
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