another ax10 build, it's a 2.2 esse

[sanchez]

like to see the finished product

[d34thw1sh]

I like the new chassis Shane! And your servo placement looks really similar to the new setup I've been playing with, let us know how it works out for you. Cya at the comp!

Danny

[opek]

Originally Posted by Erin

Did you narrow them? Comp with them, I've been waiting for someone to pave the way.

They are completely stock. The wheels are 1" wide berg offset DNA thrashers. It looks like it wants some 86jeep style servo mount.

Originally Posted by d34thw1sh

I like the new chassis Shane! And your servo placement looks really similar to the new setup I've been playing with, let us know how it works out for you. Cya at the comp!

Danny

Me too! I dunno if I should cut a new side plate to let the motor hang out, if I should run it wide, or if I should just try to imagine the geometry when set up with some berg axles. Can't wait to see the cool shit you come up with, man! As far as how it works, it's low and it works! I have some electrical stuff I'm sorting out at the moment, but I should be all up and running by the 10th.

[Nabil]

Originally Posted by opek

Or if I should just try to imagine the geometry when set up with some berg axles.

What do you need to make imagining easier? I'm sure I got a stock berg axle lying around

[TSK]

I'm actually gonna run stock width AR60's on my SSS-R. I'm gonna use my .650" wide DNA Psychos. I don't tnk it's too wide as my XR is about the same width.

No tire rub at full lock seems like the best benefit.

The down side is terrible a plink seperation. An AX 4 link plate will bolt on, bolt on, but it needs to have a bracket made to keep it from twist front to back. If you don't run an AX style link plate, run the VP truss. I just don't trust the offset upper link geometry the stock truss offers.

[opek]

Originally Posted by Nabil

What do you need to make imagining easier? I'm sure I got a stock berg axle lying around

It would be great to see and measure the link mounts and shock mounts!

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

I'm actually gonna run stock width AR60's on my SSS-R. I'm gonna use my .650" wide DNA Psychos. I don't tnk it's too wide as my XR is about the same width.

No tire rub at full lock seems like the best benefit.

The down side is terrible a plink seperation. An AX 4 link plate will bolt on, bolt on, but it needs to have a bracket made to keep it from twist front to back. If you don't run an AX style link plate, run the VP truss. I just don't trust the offset upper link geometry the stock truss offers.

I think it will end just over 11" wide with tires on and my narrow offset wheels.

The upper link bracket looks like it would be a bit harder to make well than on an ax10 axle, but it looks to be easier to make a strong bracket that is very low. At the same time my rig took TONS of falls and TONS of abuse before sheering a mount with only 2 screws holding the rear 4 link plate in. (Even though my links mounted very far away from the 2 screws!) I have yet to break one with the mounts ground down to the height of the pumpkin, so I will probably just run 2 screws on a plate until it breaks. Stock geometry, what?

[opek]

Originally Posted by sanchez

like to see the finished product

Me too!

[josh6575]

I checked out your thread. It was a good read. I especially like the tubing filled tires like the airless equipment tires. It looks like you really enjoy tinkering with your rig. I hope you will try a behind the axle steering set up to see if a proper ackerman will make any difference. I corrected mine some by adding plates to the knuckles out front, but do not have enough room to get out where I would like it. I tried running toe out to get each wheel to go to full lock and it worked great while turning. Driving straight across a long side hill would cause the front to slide down the hill. After correction it works much better. Please take a look at my bully build thread. I have some out of the box ideas that I am going to try.

[opek]

Originally Posted by josh6575

I checked out your thread. It was a good read. I especially like the tubing filled tires like the airless equipment tires. It looks like you really enjoy tinkering with your rig. I hope you will try a behind the axle steering set up to see if a proper ackerman will make any difference. I corrected mine some by adding plates to the knuckles out front, but do not have enough room to get out where I would like it. I tried running toe out to get each wheel to go to full lock and it worked great while turning. Driving straight across a long side hill would cause the front to slide down the hill. After correction it works much better. Please take a look at my bully build thread. I have some out of the box ideas that I am going to try.

Thanks! I'm not sure if I like tinkering with it or I have an insatiable desire to learn how cars work, these things are an awfully affordable way for me to get hands on. I have run with reverse, 0, and correct ackerman. Right now I'm using reverse ackerman so I can get my shocks and links spread at the axle the same as the rear. With a specific antisquat value and roll center height I found reverse ackerman to give me better steering when turning from a sidehill to an uphill.

[opek]

Out with the old, in with the new. This is my 7th servo plate, starting from the bent up stock stick pack plate. Now I just have to find a spot for the esc. I'm sure the plate could be at it's best if I put the esc where the battery is and put the battery down where the servo is, but on the drivers side. My pack is just a bit too big to fit there, so I will ignore it and just battle with esc mounting for now!

[opek]

And here it is. The uppers are both flat at ride height, here you can see full extension. The wheelbase is a teeny bit long so I will bring the rear lowers in, which should help lift the rear driveshaft up a bit. I will probably make a new rear upper mount with lots of triangulation.

The skid is 3" wide (it needs to be 3.1 inches wide ). The rig sits sturdily at full extension on an inclined board, so I'm not too concerned about the shocks not being leaned in. There isn't very much triangulation in the lowers, which should level my roll axis out. But that roll axis being tilted inwards did help me turn more sharply up hills and up obstacles.

I'm pretty happy with it!

[TSK]

Pretty interesting setup.

Why not make an 8th servo plate and run the lipo longitudinally opposite the servo?

[opek]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Pretty interesting setup.

Why not make an 8th servo plate and run the lipo longitudinally opposite the servo?

I'll eventually square away with a proper set of links bent for this rig and I will also play with the rear pinion angle. As for right now, it could use a tad bit of weight up front, as it's almost 50/50... It's awfully stable, though!

You can see full extension, ride height, and a few shots of the electronics mounting.

All the suspension doohikey's in the world aren't worth a damn next to less weight up high!

If I can wake up early enough I'll toss some plastic wheels on the rear. I'm sure the extra width (both track and wheel) will help on the sidehill.


Right now I have Losi pink foams in the rear (the ones that come with the red claws) and about 10 cotton balls worth of cotton in each front tire.

[opek]

Originally Posted by Nabil

What do you need to make imagining easier? I'm sure I got a stock berg axle lying around

Come hang out with us at the next comp, you busy ass bastard!

So far I'm really liking the 'no foam' approach. I figured since I have all this extra stability in the tire from the tubing why even bother with a foam. I tore up a few cotton balls and stuck them in each tire. They are a little bit less bouncy than the Proline Dual stages and quite a bit less bouncy than the Losi Pinks. The tweels do a pretty good job soaking up some of the fall and not returning it. The tires wad up like there is no tomorrow, and still do OK on a sidehill. This last comp was on rip rap (where I would assume a foam setup like this to excel), so I'll have to get out to some rolling rock to see how it handles on some big off camber stuff. I tossed the plastic wheels on the back this morning and the weight distribution is almost perfect. Once I kill off all the extra wiring I bet it will be spot on to my liking.

The truck is very neutral, although this may be partly the result of the near even weight distribution. Getting the upper links up away from the axle has raised my roll axis and roll center in the front considerably, and it's a great improvement. The extra width in the rear is most definitely going to help (the DH's are berg offset).

A big shout out and thank you to RCHuffer for supplying me with a pinion when I needed it most!

edit - Just got back from some rocks, and the negatives about equal the positives. Extra rollover of the tire and increased ground clearance balance out the higher roll center and lower components. It's about as good as it was before on a sidehill. Some foams up front are probably in my future. It does grip like a madman. I easily made it up a bunch of low traction surfaces that I normally can't. No wheel hop unless the rear tires are hitting an overhang, just consistent and predictable spinning as it hunts for traction!

[d34thw1sh]

Nice work on your rig Shane, it worked awesome! I'm sure a little bit of it had to do with the driver as well lol! Let me know when you want to meet up for a "test" session. Cya!

[opek]

Originally Posted by d34thw1sh

Nice work on your rig Shane, it worked awesome! I'm sure a little bit of it had to do with the driver as well lol! Let me know when you want to meet up for a "test" session. Cya!

I think the worst part about this rig is the driver! All of the local sporty's work really well, the whole class is full of fun. I finally bought some steel stock to work with.

Got some rears lowers set up for now (I would call them temporary, but my temporary stuff tends to stay around until it breaks). If I shorten the rear upper links my pinion angle will improve as the suspension cycles, instead of staying constant like it does now. I can't raise the pinion any higher without running into issues at full compression. If I get around to sorting that out I'll try and bend up a more aggressive pair of rear lowers. There is still a bunch of room left between the rear lowers and the driveshaft.

Picked up a new body and hopefully I can keep it kind of clean. It's so ugly compared to the exciter (the color doesn't help ).

I also grabbed some 3/16 aluminum for a set of uppers. That will all happen sooner or later, but probably not for a little while.

The cotton/tweel combo in the front is really working well for me now. It's almost like having no foam. The tire can wad up on almost anything, but it's still reasonably well supported. A shorter tweel wouldn't offer the support, and a taller tweel wouldn't offer the wadding.

I got the plastic wheels on and everything is moving along nicely, now.

When the truck picks up a tire in an off camber or uneven situation I can almost always just throttle through. I'm looking around for some softer springs, I bet something in the order of .5-.7lb will be really nice. Only time will tell, but I still have no shock oil in the passenger rear. It's not that big of a deal and it really lets me see how stiffly sprung the rear can be in some situations. I hope what I'm seeing is not binding!

I finally got some overdrive gears installed this morning. I can't wait for the rain to let up so I can go see what all the fuss is about with this whole ud/od thing.

[d34thw1sh]

You my friend, never sleep...

[opek]

Sleep is for the weak, 9.25 hours every night is what I shoot for!

I came here wanting to say I cleaned up the wiring, but I really didn't. I got rid of some! Here are a few shots to better show the battery and servo placement. Tape and zip ties, is there a better way to put things together?

[opek]

Some new electronics are on the way to make sure the truck covers for my poor decisions while on course. I will write a how to for removing a heatsink when I do the BRXL. That most definitely says 14.8 volts.

Getting the esc relocated will allow me to use the shock positioning I want, softening the front and rear as well as lowering the chassis considerably. And finally, a set of CI soft outers to try out in the front.

[d34thw1sh]

Ain't no rest for the wicked!

Did I mention I hate shoot outs??? Lol!