SCREAMER's F-Bomber

[ussprinceton2004]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Here's my quick tip for the day. Replace all of your 2x10mm pins with 2x11mm. Axles are the main places as well as the top shaft on the Wraith/SCX style trans. I haven't found a place yet where the 2x11mm was too long so a bit more strength and as you can see, a lot more engagement in whatever it's filling. This is a VP clamping hub but the longer pin also fills more of the stock set screw hex.

what are the part #s for those 2x11mm pins?

[SCREAMER]

Got the MIP installed and clearance looks good. Won't know for sure until everything's reassembled and I can cycle the suspension. I was able to check servo clearance by holding the chassis in place and everything looks good there too. Man, I'm glad I opted for the $6 two day shipping on that spur. It should be here tomorrow then first test run. I'm excited.

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004

what are the part #s for those 2x11mm pins?

AX31028

[mikebecher]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

I agree, the stock servo mount doesn't feel all that stout! I didn't want to run it either, but I couldn't get my servo located more rearward with the regular Wraith plate. Time will tell, plus there's a spare in the part's bag. I'm sure the aftermarket will have a replacement soon.

I think a spongy servo mount might work to our advantage. It gives the steering a place to flex, taking some stress off the servo itself. I might steal the spare from my sons' x-mas present and give it a try

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

VP flipped those link mounts for me when they designed the Currie. The left side can only mount one way and the right side has to match.

No plans to run knuckle weights on the bomber so I chose scale hubs and knuckles. After removing the stock servo mount from the stock axle I knew there was no way I would run it. It's more flexible than SCX10 plastic links. It won't even break, it'll just tear.

My MIP just showed up as I was typing so I'm gonna get this thing installed. Then I'm only waiting on my spur and I can button her up.

Originally Posted by bilinvic

I agree, the stock servo mount doesn't feel all that stout! I didn't want to run it either, but I couldn't get my servo located more rearward with the regular Wraith plate. Time will tell, plus there's a spare in the part's bag. I'm sure the aftermarket will have a replacement soon.

Duuuuuuuude's DCW DeWanger servo mount plate
Eyeball Engineering is now DCW!


EDIT: Screamer you're off to a nice start!

Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004

what are the part #s for those 2x11mm pins?

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

AX31028

W0W, that's crazy ridiculous, those longer pins should be included stock!

[SCREAMER]

In the first week of ownership all three of the local guys with RR10s have developed pretty leaky shocks. No real surprise from Axial stockers but I decided to go ahead and swap them out before even trying to run them. The upper mounts on all 4 are ridiculously sloppy anyway so there's a lot to be gained by changing out the stockers. If you stay with the stock shocks I would at least get rid of the top ball and swap in a Wraith style rubber grommet. It looks like the RR10 shocks are a bit longer than stock Wraith shocks like I thought so swapping in the Traxxas 2662 4 inch big bore will give me the added benefit of about a 1/4 inch of lowering all around. The Axial springs fit perfect with no preload and with ProLine's universal upper shock ball all slop is gone. Just nice smooth suspension cycling. Here's the comparison shot.

[SCREAMER]

Here it is installed.

[fr8cture]

Are you gonna run dual shocks?

[SCREAMER]

Yes, in the rear. I'm waiting for the ProLine 5 inch to become available.

[tedo]

I am installing the traxxas teflon big bores as well tomorrow when I get a bunch more parts.

The big bores have always been super reliable on bashing / crawling rigs.

Definitely will benefit by having the rig a tad lower with brushless speeds.

[SCREAMER]

My Robinson spur finally showed up and I immediately got it installed so I could reassemble everything and start some testing. After getting everything back together I discovered I had my MMP set to reverse and my remote set to reverse so the bomber ran faster in reverse than forward. This meant I had to pull everything back apart to reprogram my MMP but after all that I finally got her running right. First off, just to re establish my initial setup, I'm running a 2200kv Holmes puller pro on 3s with 13/64 spur and pinion. All I could do before it got too dark was some runs in and out of the garage and some crawling around my little test pile of rocks. I'm really surprised at how quick she is. I'm glad I stuck with the stock spur size because I feel like I'm right in the sweet spot for gearing. I did pick up even more low speed throttle control and that's one of the main goals I set. I would estimate top speed is around 16-17 miles an hour. I tried to get a neighbor to pace me but it was difficult and not very accurate. After 3 runs we agreed this was pretty close. In any case it's way more wheelspeed than I'll ever need for the type of crawling I do and plenty of umph to launch if needed. So far I love it and feel I made the perfect choice of motor for me. Enough talk, here's some more pics.

[SCREAMER]

Centered rear Currie goodness. Even with the MIP the driveshaft still makes contact with the spur cover at just before full compression and at full flex. I'm not really worried about it because it shouldn't happen often enough and at the speeds I'll be running the worst thing it could do is rub a hole in the spur cover. I may decide to run this centered rear on my Wraith and get an offset rear Currie for the bomber. I just don't think it's the best fit for this rig. Yes it can be made to work as I did but I had to make sacrifices that, to me, aren't worth it. We'll see. I may just be overthinking it.

[SCREAMER]

The front end has zero issues. The servo clears easily, plenty of steering throw even with VVDs, no binding, contact, or rubbing anywhere at full compression or at full flex even with the wheels turned lock to lock. I was surprised it turned as tight a circle as it did since it has a longer wheelbase than my Wraith. It's no XR10 modded SCX but will do great. I am running UD in the rear which helps.

[SCREAMER]

Just an underside shot showing driveline angles. The front links look weird because I'm running the passenger side link in a high clearance orientation. I couldn't do that on the drivers side without it making contact with the driveshaft at full droop.

[SCREAMER]

I'm not usually one for scale accessories but I saw this on RPP and had to have it. It's 100% functional just like the real Hi-Lift and all steel. I mounted it using two clamps that came in the Axial universal light bar mount. I really like how it came out.

[SCREAMER]

Finally got my wheels and tires assembled for this build. I used BDN's wheel widener kit which is top quality and looks amazing. I'm gonna order another kit today so I can get another set of methods. It was still a bit difficult due to the narrower Falken Wildpeaks and being a bit overstuffed with CI comp cut inners and medium outers but I'm extremely happy with the outcome and it would have been impossible without Bruce's kit. This thing just keeps getting better.

[GLHS592]

I have to say, those are the best looking wheels for a Bomber.

[SCREAMER]

Thanks, I agree.

[SCREAMER]

So because I am the kind of person I am and can never stop improving something, this just happened. Wraith length trailing arms from UCFab (about an inch shorter than stock) and VP Wraith upper links with the SSD scale driveshaft. This is so much better than what I had. This shortened up the wheelbase by an inch giving me a better break over angle to get the belly hung up less and a tighter turning radius. Two things that make a better crawler which is what I was trying to build. I basically swapped the whole AR60 rearend from my Wraith just to see if it worked and boy did it. The pinion angle is perfect and now suspension travel is limited by the shocks, not rubbing and interference from the driveshaft. I'm so happy I tried this and hope more people do. The stock TA length will work great for U4 racers and bashing but this is definitely the way to go if you're building something that will spend most of its time below 15 miles an hour and it was just too easy.

[SCREAMER]

Here's an overhead to show the rear axle is now forward of the rear "bumper". I don't have a before shot but with the stock length trailing arms, the center of the axle was dead even with the rear bumper. It's much more balanced now front to rear instead of looking like a hillclimber.