My IFS Bomber Build

[Lanky]

When I built my yeti kit, per axial's directions, I noticed that the Dog bone end of the front universals would bottom in the diff cup(94mm uni's)... I think this is the main problem that people have with their universals/ front end setups. Trying to dial negative camber plus trying to get maximum travel out of these front ends is hard without binding. Binding usually ends up breaking or bending the universals. Then adding a locker into the mix on top of a powerful motor/esc/ battery, we are really pushing things...

I've noticed RPM's "revo replacement" rod ends will limit travel via steering/ and upper link binding at the rod end. This and using the 90mm shocks in the front, utilizing the outer most shock link position on the a arm have proven a great combo. I have yet to have an issue with my yeti/B1b front end period. I also don't run a locker, witch I am certain also plays a huge role in my trouble free front end. I am currently running 2mil fluid, but it's looking like I am going back to 500k, as I prefer the on power characteristics of the lighter fluid.

I did recently pickup a set of 92mm Axial UNi's that are now on my B1b. I was hoping increase negative camber while maintaining the same amount of travel. My next purchase will no doubt be Dlux's as soon as he gets front bulkheads with over sized bearings in stock

[84yoda]

You should pick up some limit straps for the front.

[Mr Hyde]

Originally Posted by Lanky

When I built my yeti kit, per axial's directions, I noticed that the Dog bone end of the front universals would bottom in the diff cup(94mm uni's)... I think this is the main problem that people have with their universals/ front end setups. Trying to dial negative camber plus trying to get maximum travel out of these front ends is hard without binding. Binding usually ends up breaking or bending the universals. Then adding a locker into the mix on top of a powerful motor/esc/ battery, we are really pushing things...

I've noticed RPM's "revo replacement" rod ends will limit travel via steering/ and upper link binding at the rod end. This and using the 90mm shocks in the front, utilizing the outer most shock link position on the a arm have proven a great combo. I have yet to have an issue with my yeti/B1b front end period. I also don't run a locker, witch I am certain also plays a huge role in my trouble free front end. I am currently running 2mil fluid, but it's looking like I am going back to 500k, as I prefer the on power characteristics of the lighter fluid.

I did recently pickup a set of 92mm Axial UNi's that are now on my B1b. I was hoping increase negative camber while maintaining the same amount of travel. My next purchase will no doubt be Dlux's as soon as he gets front bulkheads with over sized bearings in stock

Agreed with front locker,once I stopped using locker no more bent unis...

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by Mr Hyde

Getting ready to build the front in anticipation of the complete DMG IFS kit coming and I am very impressed how u explained so much in detail the build process...I know it takes time to shoot a pic and then explanation...thanks.i will be using your thread as a cheat sheet so have u to build mine

Thanks Mr. Hyde. I think this site is great and learned a lot from everyone here. My way of giving back to the community I guess.

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by DenisLM

IFS need to be straight as possible. Those absurd angles will bend anything you put there. Just a matter of time and right situations.
I learned it in the hard way in my yeti. Since I lowered the front my incision VDI are running great. no bends, no self clearing.

Originally Posted by Originally Posted by Lanky View Post

When I built my yeti kit, per axial's directions, I noticed that the Dog bone end of the front universals would bottom in the diff cup(94mm uni's)... I think this is the main problem that people have with their universals/ front end setups. Trying to dial negative camber plus trying to get maximum travel out of these front ends is hard without binding. Binding usually ends up breaking or bending the universals. Then adding a locker into the mix on top of a powerful motor/esc/ battery, we are really pushing things...

I've noticed RPM's "revo replacement" rod ends will limit travel via steering/ and upper link binding at the rod end. This and using the 90mm shocks in the front, utilizing the outer most shock link position on the a arm have proven a great combo. I have yet to have an issue with my yeti/B1b front end period. I also don't run a locker, witch I am certain also plays a huge role in my trouble free front end. I am currently running 2mil fluid, but it's looking like I am going back to 500k, as I prefer the on power characteristics of the lighter fluid.

I did recently pickup a set of 92mm Axial UNi's that are now on my B1b. I was hoping increase negative camber while maintaining the same amount of travel. My next purchase will no doubt be Dlux's as soon as he gets front bulkheads with over sized bearings in stock

Denis, You could be right, but I like the ground clearance though . I don't mind the self clearance, as it wasn't much

Lanky -I agree with you, I'm thinking the bent axles are more from the locker and power... and also my stupidity and pushing it to the limit.
Using the RPM rod ends is an interesting idea. I may try that, but hate the idea of limiting the already limited turning radius.
But, I don't believe the dog bones bottom out with the Dlux. The pic i had showing the length comparison between the Axial and Dlux, that was the 92mm Axial.

Here are a couple photos showing the Dlux in the cup with the shock fully extended and fully compressed, and it doesn't bottom out, so you can run them with confidence on that.

Fully compressed - note the gap


Fully extended.




I never tried running the front open with 500k fluid. Does it really work? does it really lock up when you need it? This might be something I look into. I really like the front locker for my purpose.

Thank you

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by DenisLM

IFS need to be straight as possible. Those absurd angles will bend anything you put there. Just a matter of time and right situations.
I learned it in the hard way in my yeti. Since I lowered the front my incision VDI are running great. no bends, no self clearing.

I'm going to have to disagree with that. I had problems with Vanquish VVDs because they are inferior to even Axial unis. Not because the front of my truck wasn't perfectly flat with travel limited to 12mm. Since installing my DLux setup, I've been running this truck like a rental on 4s for months and there have been zero issues. I'm certain Old's bent axles are a fluke simply because he's the only one that's managed to bend them. An open front is a band aid fix for weak parts. If you want it to crawl you need to be locked or running 20 million weight diff putty like I'll be trying soon. Don't build your truck around weak parts, find stronger parts and build your truck to do what you want it to do. Old, if you like the locker for your purposes by all means keep it. You've got the right shafts in there so they will handle it.

[84yoda]

20 million? Highest I've seen is 2.5 million.

[SCREAMER]

Came across this stuff in a really good U4 build thread. I knew there had to be something better than earplugs and silly putty. From the way the guys were talking that actually use this stuff it should be perfect for what I'm wanting, true limited slip.

[Lanky]

Old- For crawling, no doubt, your going to want to be running the locker.... I run the front end open, mainly because I've noticed that with the front locked or close to it, the front end will pull the truck side to side under power. Under braking, your basically gonna go straight, no matter how much steering is inputted. With the front open, it's easier for me to control under braking into, and on power out of a corner. I'm impressed with how far I have come with my B1b's setup. I never expected a solid locked rear to handle as well as it is. With the rear limited in travel like mine, obviously I don't have much traction roll as it stay's flatter. So how I find myself driving it is to tap the brake to unsettle it, then use the throttle to oversteer it a touch. Again, its setup is for going fast, so totally apples to oranges. Big hat tip to how dynamic the B1b truly is.

The RPM ends basically provide a form of mechanical stop in droop(not Ideal by any means), not soo much in bump. However doesn't limit the steering abilities. I wouldn't recommend it for your use. Those Dlux cups are sweet for sure! thanks for the pic! with the cup vertical, does the top dogbone end come close to falling out of the cup? Full droop on your setup is provided by maximum shock extension, or something binding? I just can't believe you bent them uni's.... You must have been having FUN!

SCREAMER- as usual our logic's are in line... I love the fact that my use dictates me not breaking parts for once! Feels good, as it's not usually the case... I use that Gravity RC 20 mil in the front of a speed run car.... It does not thin out like a typical silicone based diff fluid... it stays the same consistency under power witch is extremely nice, and lets my car track straight. Last year my Mugen went 160MPH using it

[84yoda]

Good to know. That is the next best option instead of a locker.

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by Lanky

Those Dlux cups are sweet for sure! thanks for the pic! with the cup vertical, does the top dogbone end come close to falling out of the cup? Full droop on your setup is provided by maximum shock extension, or something binding? I just can't believe you bent them uni's.... You must have been having FUN!

SCREAMER- as usual our logic's are in line... I love the fact that my use dictates me not breaking parts for once! Feels good, as it's not usually the case... I use that Gravity RC 20 mil in the front of a speed run car.... It does not thin out like a typical silicone based diff fluid... it stays the same consistency under power witch is extremely nice, and lets my car track straight. Last year my Mugen went 160MPH using it

At full droop it does not come close to falling out the cup. No binding either.
I run the 93mm Gmades Piggyback and use the upper most outer mounting point on the DMG shock bracket.

The bottom line is I'm very happy with the Dlux shafts. I think the stockers would've twisted off - Not mad that they bent, I know I'm rough on these rigs. I didn't build to baby, built to punish .

Here are pics on both sides full droop.

Full droop.

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Don't build your truck around weak parts, find stronger parts and build your truck to do what you want it to do.

Love that line

Real curious about that 20mil wt. Can't wait to hear your results.

[*Old*]

Just learning how to do video and uploading online, so wanted to post a couple slow mo vids to highlight the suspension movement of the IFS front end and the solid rear with the Vanquish Currie Sway bars.
Had my kids take the video and was telling them to try and stay in front of it, low and close to watch the suspension at work. It was a tough task for them, but whatever.

The truck was moving through with ease. I ran the same line with my sons solid axle Bomber and felt the IFS was cruising through much easier. His bomber performed well through this terrain, but the IFS was just on another level.
I like how soft the Curries are, allowing good articulation with the rear. I'm happy to report that the MIP blue thread gel kept the crews in place with no movement.


https://vimeo.com/user63077290/ifs-b...-garden-slo-mo


Tried to hop it through, but whoops!
https://vimeo.com/user63077290/ifs-bomber-tree-crash


My son F'ing around with his solid axle.
https://vimeo.com/user63077290/bomber-flip

Don't mind the little kid in the way
https://vimeo.com/user63077290/ifs-b1b-and-bomber-crawl

[DenisLM]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I'm going to have to disagree with that. I had problems with Vanquish VVDs because they are inferior to even Axial unis. Not because the front of my truck wasn't perfectly flat with travel limited to 12mm. Since installing my DLux setup, I've been running this truck like a rental on 4s for months and there have been zero issues. I'm certain Old's bent axles are a fluke simply because he's the only one that's managed to bend them. An open front is a band aid fix for weak parts. If you want it to crawl you need to be locked or running 20 million weight diff putty like I'll be trying soon. Don't build your truck around weak parts, find stronger parts and build your truck to do what you want it to do. Old, if you like the locker for your purposes by all means keep it. You've got the right shafts in there so they will handle it.

The problems happened in my case with dogbones in the yeti, several sets until I leveled the front suspension and never had problems again. The Incision VDI came later, but no problems. No idea if the Vanquish VVD are any different, but the incision ones are working great, so the dogbones after correct the suspension travel.

Originally Posted by *Old*

Denis, You could be right, but I like the ground clearance though . I don't mind the self clearance, as it wasn't much

I never tried running the front open with 500k fluid. Does it really work? does it really lock up when you need it? This might be something I look into. I really like the front locker for my purpose.

Thank you

Ground clearance it's just a matter of how you see it. if you have a lot of droop, you'll get by the same obstacles and with a big advantage of lower the COG (which looks like a lot of crawler only guys completely forget about it)
I try to keep my trucks lower as possible, and will as much suspension travel up and down too.
I mainly build my trucks for U4 (and they get beaten a lot) but I eventually crawl in my backyard and a few local events.

I run open with 1 million wt front and back in my yeti and it is great for go fast, but not that good for general crawling. ok for trailing. was better when i had the rear diff locked.

Originally Posted by *Old*

At full droop it does not come close to falling out the cup. No binding either.
I run the 93mm Gmades Piggyback and use the upper most outer mounting point on the DMG shock bracket.

The bottom line is I'm very happy with the Dlux shafts. I think the stockers would've twisted off - Not mad that they bent, I know I'm rough on these rigs. I didn't build to baby, built to punish .

I think the problem is when the shaft falls in the edges of the cups, not slipping out if it.

[Deckard]

DenisLM's U4 Bomber and 2-Shot's BGR Bomber are what I model my ride height after pre-b1b and even more so as the B1B really shines with a low CoG. Getting the front end low enough was a trick for me. I modded the DMG tower and now I'm happy with my ride height. I love the way this rig handles at all speeds now. I also suggest retaining straps. Keep the front and rear from extending too much has really helped keep the front axles from potential further destruction and the rig feels more balanced in the air.

Someone mentioned it early how at full compression the RPM a-arms flex. Depending on the speed and terrain, it makes sense that they could flex enough to bend the axles (stock axles definitely). I've seen a few B1Bs with Metal Concept a-arms (Terrible1's bad ass B1B is one). Usually I'm not a fan of metal on the a-arms but those Metal Concept a-arms look bad ass enough for me to switch. When I break my RPMs, I'm going with the MCs. Maybe their lack of flex will help save some axle shafts.

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by Deckard

DenisLM's U4 Bomber and 2-Shot's BGR Bomber are what I model my ride height after pre-b1b and even more so as the B1B really shines with a low CoG. Getting the front end low enough was a trick for me. I modded the DMG tower and now I'm happy with my ride height. I love the way this rig handles at all speeds now. I also suggest retaining straps. Keep the front and rear from extending too much has really helped keep the front axles from potential further destruction and the rig feels more balanced in the air.

Someone mentioned it early how at full compression the RPM a-arms flex. Depending on the speed and terrain, it makes sense that they could flex enough to bend the axles (stock axles definitely). I've seen a few B1Bs with Metal Concept a-arms (Terrible1's bad ass B1B is one). Usually I'm not a fan of metal on the a-arms but those Metal Concept a-arms look bad ass enough for me to switch. When I break my RPMs, I'm going with the MCs. Maybe their lack of flex will help save some axle shafts.

Thanks Deck,

What did you do to mod the DMG shock tower?
I lowered my B1B over the weekend by moving the top of the front shocks more inward and angled the rear shocks a little more on the trailing arm.
The result, better handling and less rollover on turns going high speed.
No noticeable difference crawling through the smaller rock garden area (my test zone) , but the belly did get hung up some when crawling over larger rocks and shit. May have to look into that flat skid plate you have if it added clearance they provide is noticeable

[*Old*]

Just wanted to post an observation on waterproof.

Been running this truck every weekend and some weekdays for a while now and last weekend by truck rolled into a creek and was completely submerged for approx. 20 seconds. I was trying to climb up a large mound and gave my son my radio to hold and he accidently moved the trigger to reverse and my truck rolled off this cliff and into the creek and sank to the bottom.
So after fishing it out, the truck was still able to run , so I carried on like nothing happened.

Over the week, I broke it down completely to clean it out and re-grease etc.

Here are my findings:

-SSD rear axle - completely dry and no sign of water entered the diff.

-Axial Yeti Bulkhead - completely dry and no sign of water entered the diff

-Axial Bomber Receiver box with Axial silicone gasket - kept the receiver completely dry. No sign of water intrusion.

-Castle MMX ESC - waterproof works as advertised, even the fan, which is not waterproof, is still working as well.

-HH PP 540BL Motor waterproof - waterproofing works as advertised

-HH SHV500 Servo - I didn't get the waterproof version if there is one, but it appears that water did not enter it, and it still worked. I did noticed I sheared off one of the pins, but that is for another post.

-Fast Eddy Bearings - the bearings in the axles and steering knuckles, etc are all still working fine. No squeeks or anything. I did spray them down with some silicon spray when cleaning them, but very pleased about this.

-Wraith tranny - bombproof - water definately got inside it but I had enough grease in there that it wasn't an issue. I did notice one of the bearings in the middle gear was completely disintegrated, but I'm not sure when it happened. I don't believe it's from the water though.

Just a couple pics of the blown bearing in the tranny. You can see the seal tore off exsposing the tiny bearings in there. The odd thing is the tranny did seem to spin really smooth with this failure. When I replaced it with a fresh bearing, it still spun free and smooth, but not as smooth

[*Old*]

Just wanted to post my findings on Holmes SHV500 Servo. I may or may not have mentioned that my sons solid axle Bomber bent the servo pin three times on his and I sheared off a servo pin once on mine. My other sons Wraith had a very slight bend on his pin but not too bad.
All trucks are run in pretty much the same fashion, stupid , so I was curious to why my sons Bomber kept bending so easily while the Wraith was not.

From reading some reviews on this servo, many seem very happy with it, while some are complaining about the weak pins. I believe I have found out the culprit.

After breaking down all 3 servo, I finally noticed that the pin hole on the servo that bent 3 pins are oval shape, whereas the pin hole on the one that hasn't broken one yet is circular.

It goes without saying, but the oval shape allows the pin to move around, which then allows the gears to move around causing the gears to grind and pin to bend or shear.

Now I don't know if it came like this from the factory or it happened after we ran it, but I don't believe these are manufactured in the States, so who knows..
I can understand if the rough riding caused the pin hole to oval out, but how would the ring also be oval shaped?

So I sent an email with photos to HH on this so we'll see what they say. I will say that they have been great with me so far and their service is outstanding!

Here is the servo cap on the servo that bent 3 pins. Notice the middle pin hole is oval shaped. Even the outer ring of the hole is oval shaped



and here is the housing for the servo cap above. The middle pin hole/ring is also oval shape.



Sheared pin and broken gears.



The two pics below is what it's supposed to look like. Round pin hole and ring.

[durok]

My understanding is that the hole (and possibly the ring around it) both get ovalized by the bent pin, I'm pretty sure that JRH from Holmes said they were working on that fix.

BTW - the excellent (but lower-torque) ProModeler servo went through multiple revisions based on failures or worn items returned to the company, they ended up installing a heavy duty brass bushing in the housing for the pin to ride in, - it was supposedly taking care of the problem.

EDIT: Found the post where Holmes discusses this:

HH Servo

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by durok

My understanding is that the hole (and possibly the ring around it) both get ovalized by the bent pin, I'm pretty sure that JRH from Holmes said they were working on that fix.

BTW - the excellent (but lower-torque) ProModeler servo went through multiple revisions based on failures or worn items returned to the company, they ended up installing a heavy duty brass bushing in the housing for the pin to ride in, - it was supposedly taking care of the problem.

EDIT: Found the post where Holmes discusses this:

HH Servo

Thanks Durok,

Adding a bushing on both ends sounds like a great idea. I'm wondering if I can find a bushing that will fit this pin and drill out the hole for it to fit...You got me thinking, thank you

I'll check out that link you sent when I get a moment. Thanks again.