Bud

[RCTom]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Have to say what a pleasure to build. Everything fits, plastics are totally different and I love them. All gears are beefy , few minor manual issues, but nothing major.
Body is totally painted now, I do need another can of PS55 to finish, so I can assemble so off to my enablers my LHS
Hang up and Drive

Well, I swung by the Jeep dealer on my way home from work today because wanted to pick out a color for my 10.3 that's also a factory JL Wrangler color. I saw a Wrangler in this really sweet bright green.

While catching up on some necessary reading before I start building my rig, low and behold, you have the same color green I wanted! I should've figure someone would've beat me to it already. .

So I have to ask: What exact brand and color of paint did you use?

[AK KRAWLER]

Tamiya PS8, as noted in Post #18.

[RCTom]

Originally Posted by AK KRAWLER

Tamiya PS8, as noted in Post #18.

D'Oh! I even read that post and still missed it. Guess I was just too excited. Thanks for the help though AK KRAWLER.

Does anyone that has painted one these bodies know if one can is enough or do I need to get two? Also, I'm not seeing what color he backed it up with--any ideas?

Unfortunately, my LHS has decided to stay closed for COVID-19 during the entire month of April so I'll need to mail order all of the paint materials. I just want to be sure I get everything on one order.

[AK KRAWLER]

Originally Posted by RCTom

D'Oh! I even read that post and still missed it. Guess I was just too excited. Thanks for the help though AK KRAWLER.

Does anyone that has painted one these bodies know if one can is enough or do I need to get two? Also, I'm not seeing what color he backed it up with--any ideas?

Unfortunately, my LHS has decided to stay closed for COVID-19 during the entire month of April so I'll need to mail order all of the paint materials. I just want to be sure I get everything on one order.

No worries, I completely understand In some of the pics it looks like it was backed with white, but there could be other layers in there that we can't see.

[RCTom]

Originally Posted by AK KRAWLER

No worries, I completely understand In some of the pics it looks like it was backed with white, but there could be other layers in there that we can't see.

That's what I was thinking too but I was hoping mikemcE was online tonight to let us know what he did.

[mikemcE]

Yessir PS 8 backed with white.
Blame the lights on Josh’s.......
I always buy two cans..... One if done neatly should be more than enough backed with white. I used Spaz Solid White Backer SZX00209.....
Really makes fluorescents pop

Hang up and Drive

[RCTom]

Thanks so much mikemcE!

One last question (I hope). You don't have any problem using the Spaz Solid White Backer with the Tamiya paint?

I hate to sound like a paint noob (I sort of am) because I thought different brands didn't work well together, or at least shouldn't be used together.

[mikemcE]

I have found most of these play well, if dry. Hair dryers work well to speed it up. HemiStorm also taught me you don’t need a opaque paint job, just solid from the top.... don’t look thru it from the inside, when you back it your done.... saves paint and dry time just no mottles


Hang up and Drive

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

HemiStorm also taught me you don’t need a opaque paint job, just solid from the top.... don’t look thru it from the inside, when you back it your done.... saves paint and dry time just no mottles

So funny that you'd mention that. I was always taught to hold the body up to the light, sun even, to know when the paint was thick enough. After hearing that tip from hemistorm last week (2012 video...?), I shot this one thinner and slower and didn't look through it from inside. Best I've ever had paint come out!

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by 2mtech

So funny that you'd mention that. I was always taught to hold the body up to the light, sun even, to know when the paint was thick enough. After hearing that tip from hemistorm last week (2012 video...?), I shot this one thinner and slower and didn't look through it from inside. Best I've ever had paint come out!

I’ve done the last three that way.... after all we see reflected colors... it works!


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

I have found most of these play well, if dry. Hair dryers work well to speed it up. HemiStorm also taught me you don’t need a opaque paint job, just solid from the top.... don’t look thru it from the inside, when you back it your done.... saves paint and dry time just no mottles


Hang up and Drive

That's my problem. I put tons of paint on a body so it's opaque. I keep telling myself I'll only put two coats on and then back it, but I've tried that in the past and the black backer could be seen through the paint.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

That's my problem. I put tons of paint on a body so it's opaque. I keep telling myself I'll only put two coats on and then back it, but I've tried that in the past and the black backer could be seen through the paint.

Well all I can say is heat the paint and mist it. 3 light coats is all you need, but it has to be even. Distance of the can/ airbrush is critical, also overlap of strokes, 1/2 to 1/3 overlap..... more opacity tighter strokes.Candys are the supreme test.


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Well all I can say is heat the paint and mist it. 3 light coats is all you need, but it has to be even. Distance of the can/ airbrush is critical, also overlap of strokes, 1/2 to 1/3 overlap..... more opacity tighter strokes.Candys are the supreme test.


Hang up and Drive

I don't warm my paint, unless the can is cold, but I shake the hell out of it. I think I tried heating my can once and didn't notice a difference.

That's why I don't have the guys to spray candy paints.

My biggest problem areas are, for instance, something like the top of a window lip. I have a tough time getting paint down in there between the window lip and the roof.

[mikemcE]

That’s why you heat the paint. Tamiya when run under hot tap water , shaken vigorously will mist out. If you mist those spots first, you’ll usually get full coverage. I’ve learned to “pre paint “ without paint, a habit I got from learning airbrushing. I visualize with my AB where I’m going to spray, as I don’t want crossing in corners. I’ve spent 40 years painting, and still learn daily. An engineer buddy taught me “Plan your work” and “Work your plan” ...... it helps.


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

That’s why you heat the paint. Tamiya when run under hot tap water , shaken vigorously will mist out. If you mist those spots first, you’ll usually get full coverage. I’ve learned to “pre paint “ without paint, a habit I got from learning airbrushing. I visualize with my AB where I’m going to spray, as I don’t want crossing in corners. I’ve spent 40 years painting, and still learn daily. An engineer buddy taught me “Plan your work” and “Work your plan” ...... it helps.


Hang up and Drive

Maybe I didn't get the paint hot enough. I'll give it another shot.

Painting is one of those never ending works in progress for me. Learning every time I pick up a can for sure.

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

That’s why you heat the paint. Tamiya when run under hot tap water , shaken vigorously will mist out.
Hang up and Drive

All right, Mike, you opened the door lol. How hot, and for how long? And I'm assuming one would just roll the can under the running water? Spill.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by 2mtech

All right, Mike, you opened the door lol. How hot, and for how long? And I'm assuming one would just roll the can under the running water? Spill.

Tap water in a coffee cup.... till you feel the warm can when shaking. Even temps. I’m gonna say a couple/ three minutes. When I did styrene builds, Tamiya TS was the best laying around. When heated it atomizes better and seems to be even pressure.But it’s the “mist” that works best. Painting teaches me patience..... when I don’t it always sucks.


Hang up and Drive

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Tap water in a coffee cup.... till you feel the warm can when shaking. Even temps. I’m gonna say a couple/ three minutes. When I did styrene builds, Tamiya TS was the best laying around. When heated it atomizes better and seems to be even pressure.But it’s the “mist” that works best. Painting teaches me patience..... when I don’t it always sucks.


Hang up and Drive

Ok, that's clear...I thought you were suggesting something new. I'll actually try that next time instead of saying I'll try that next time. I did do a 30 minute crotch warming this time, may well have helped with atomization.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'm back to Tamiya paint exclusively, small cans notwithstanding.

Patience is not a virtue I possess in spades...maybe I'll get there. Still refining the basics like distance from material and stroke speed. I have overlap down.

Thanks!

[mikemcE]

I live in Florida... my paint is always 75 degrees. I routinely warm all paints I spray... biggest problem to watch for is water still on the can, I use a fresh paper towel


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

I live in Florida... my paint is always 75 degrees. I routinely warm all paints I spray... biggest problem to watch for is water still on the can, I use a fresh paper towel


Hang up and Drive

And that's one of the reasons I hate warming them in water. The water can drip if you miss any and the label disintegrates.