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Old 11-17-2014, 06:22 AM   #41
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The ProSpecs are great! They're super smooth and very tunable (I have a ton of springs, pistons, etc that will work with 12mm big bore shocks). They are about the widest shock you can run on the front of the Yeti, as I have about 2mm before the spring hits the universal. I filled the stock rears with some heavier weight oil (for now) and they were like a toy compared to the ProSpecs.

I think also make this upgrades in my YETI

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Old 11-17-2014, 07:35 AM   #42
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Default Re: The RCNetwork's Yeti Build!

the proline shocks you used up front, are those front or rear originally?
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Old 11-17-2014, 07:43 AM   #43
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the proline shocks you used up front, are those front or rear originally?
Pro-Line PRO-2, ProTrac Upgrades for your Axial Yeti – Part 1 | Pro-Line Factory Team
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:40 PM   #44
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Default Re: The RCNetwork's Yeti Build!

Thanks for the kind words on the link mounts. One of my favorite tuning features. If you do swap them make sure you flip the upper shock bushings as Carter mentioned.

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Originally Posted by RichMTB01 View Post
The ProSpecs are great! They're super smooth and very tunable (I have a ton of springs, pistons, etc that will work with 12mm big bore shocks). They are about the widest shock you can run on the front of the Yeti, as I have about 2mm before the spring hits the universal. I filled the stock rears with some heavier weight oil (for now) and they were like a toy compared to the ProSpecs.
Problem with the bigger diameter shocks is that clearance you speak of. 2mm is nowhere near enough. The front arms (unless Aluminum) flex like crazy under impact. You are guaranteed to end up with bent universal shafts. Be careful recommending larger diameter shocks to people without warning them of the risks.
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:13 PM   #45
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Problem with the bigger diameter shocks is that clearance you speak of. 2mm is nowhere near enough. The front arms (unless Aluminum) flex like crazy under impact. You are guaranteed to end up with bent universal shafts. Be careful recommending larger diameter shocks to people without warning them of the risks.

I had to mount my shocks on the front side of the arm due to clearance issues...
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:19 PM   #46
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Thanks for the kind words on the link mounts. One of my favorite tuning features. If you do swap them make sure you flip the upper shock bushings as Carter mentioned.







Problem with the bigger diameter shocks is that clearance you speak of. 2mm is nowhere near enough. The front arms (unless Aluminum) flex like crazy under impact. You are guaranteed to end up with bent universal shafts. Be careful recommending larger diameter shocks to people without warning them of the risks.

The comment on the ProSpecs and the clearance to universals was from another post with someone wanting to throw in D8 shocks. From installing the ProSpecs, the clearance looks to be perfect even with flex from the arms. Thanks for checking out the thread.


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Old 11-17-2014, 03:21 PM   #47
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the proline shocks you used up front, are those front or rear originally?

They're the fronts. The rears are too long and will cause dogbones/universals to pop out.


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Old 11-17-2014, 03:21 PM   #48
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I had to mount my shocks on the front side of the arm due to clearance issues...

You mounted the ProSpecs as well?


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Old 11-18-2014, 07:43 AM   #49
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You mounted the ProSpecs as well?

I'm actually running the PowerStrokes off the rear of my Slash... But I think they are very similar in size?
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Old 11-18-2014, 09:55 AM   #50
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i cant see how running bigger shocks would increase the chance of bending an axle shaft when the entire arm moves. seems to me the chance of bending an axle shaft would be more from the stock a arms flexing like wet noodles and enabling the axle shaft to potentially get in a bind from being bent or twisted beyond the mechanical limit of the the axle shaft.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:40 PM   #51
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I got in a few more newly released Hot Racing parts. The quality seems to be great and they installed nicely!



The Stock plastic front body mount vs the HR aluminum mount. Mounted on perfect with the stock hardware.


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Old 11-18-2014, 03:44 PM   #52
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Now for the HR aluminum transfer case!







The stock transmission mated to the aluminum transfer case nicely and the fit was perfect. Maybe not a huge durability item, but it sure does look good!


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Old 11-18-2014, 03:45 PM   #53
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I agree..wonder how many people will use these in other projects..sorta like an atlas t case
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Old 11-19-2014, 12:02 AM   #54
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The Hot Racing sway bar clamp was next. Bright blue!




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Old 11-19-2014, 01:33 AM   #55
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Now time to start on the wheels, foams and tires. Probably one of the items I spent the most time deciding on.

First off the wheels - Vanquish Method 101's



Wow these look good!


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Old 11-19-2014, 01:34 AM   #56
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After some research, the claimed 1" vanquish cans are actually .75". So Carter Fab, here I come for some true 1" cans and hardware:






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Old 11-19-2014, 01:51 AM   #57
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Tire choice was easy.......Ottsix Voodoo U4 tires:



Of course I couldn't use some cheesy foams, So Crawler InNovations' Deuces Wild closed cell foams are the ticket for my 3s powered Yeti




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Old 11-19-2014, 01:54 AM   #58
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The CarterFab 1" cans fit perfectly



Then time to bolt up those beautiful Vanquish beadlocks.





Ended up venting the tires with a leather punch on 3 equal sides (as recommended by CI)


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Old 11-19-2014, 06:45 AM   #59
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Rich, van you post a pic of the inside of the wheel? Including the 'extra hardware'. If it's mounted as i think it should be mounted doesn't it collect a lot of dirt and mud?

Also very interested in how 'deep' these wheels go over the knuckles.
Thnx.
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:53 AM   #60
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Rich, van you post a pic of the inside of the wheel? Including the 'extra hardware'. If it's mounted as i think it should be mounted doesn't it collect a lot of dirt and mud?

Also very interested in how 'deep' these wheels go over the knuckles.
Thnx.
Just to chip in here...

So I've used this setup extensively (I have the 1.250 cans though), and although it does collect some degree of muck, it's easy to wash or brush (after you let it dry) off.

As for clearance on the inside, .350 adaptors will clear 1" cans. I have to use .475 for my 1.250 & Method combo, otherwise there's a whole lot of contact going on.
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