DLUX Front End Guide and Wheel Fitment

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by 802coma

Once I got the items in the front differential squared away it was time to bolt on the knuckle. With the chamber link bolted in the suspension was once again limited. The chamber link mount on the chassis side has 4 positions. At the time I was using the lowest and most inside hole. But with the new diff cups the space is now limited. I found the only chamber link position that would work without modding is the upper most outside setting, as yo can see in the pics it still doesn't provide much room.

There are probably a million different combinations of how to run the camber/shock setup but you should be able to run all the holes except the inner and lowest. I know Wheels7 runs the outer lowest. His rod end does rub but does not cause issues. He could simply add a washer to space it away from the drive cup or even use a Jato rod ball but he does not, because it just is not an issue. You could even look into an offset rod end or bent link if its that important?

Originally Posted by 802coma

Wheel Fitment list
Wheels that fit:

RC4wd Hitmans work really well and I am assuming many other RC4WD wheels.

Originally Posted by opie

You did a way better job at putting in writing then I ever could have. Lol

Yeah, thats no joke! Great job on this! Youre hired!

[802coma]

Thanks for the kind words everybody (especially Erik)!!



Updated post 1 with a open differential section and made a edit to the chamber link adjustment that Erik pointed out.

Updated post 2 with rough dimensions of the ID required for a wheel along with wheel mount surface to knuckle dimensions. Updated the wheels that fit list with RC4WD Hitmans

Updated CI 6 bolts post with ID measurement

Updated LURC wheel post with ID measurement

[JustinM]

Cool deal..Great write up btw!

[802coma]

Originally Posted by JustinM

Cool deal..Great write up btw!

Thanks a bunch!!

[Erik D_lux]

If wheel fitment ends up being a huge issue, I could make the spacers and upper/lower arms narrower which would save a good bit of room. Only problem is that I think it would look funny since it would not be the same width as the knuckle itself. Something to think about though.

[meatmonkey]

Couple general questions regarding your Yeti.

How does the scrub radius of your new setup compare to stock?

Do you know if the Yeti kit uses that darned "sintered" metal for the front spider gears? It would seem kinda silly to include HD ring and pinion, but still use powdered spiders?

We demand weight differences to make this absolutely scientific. I hear that unsprung weight on go-fast IFS is not as desirable as a crawler application.

Are those shafts an unmodified Ofna part #? If so, is that what determines the placement of the inner dogbone cups? Seems like longer shafts and a narrower cup spacing would be more ideal?

[802coma]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

Couple general questions regarding your Yeti.

How does the scrub radius of your new setup compare to stock?

Do you know if the Yeti kit uses that darned "sintered" metal for the front spider gears? It would seem kinda silly to include HD ring and pinion, but still use powdered spiders?

We demand weight differences to make this absolutely scientific. I hear that unsprung weight on go-fast IFS is not as desirable as a crawler application.

Are those shafts an unmodified Ofna part #? If so, is that what determines the placement of the inner dogbone cups? Seems like longer shafts and a narrower cup spacing would be more ideal?

Great questions,

Scrub radius I couldn't really tell you at the moment. My servo is coming out tomorrow. It hates life and has went downhill tremendously since I got the front squared away.

The spider gears in the kit I cannot confirm. Mine was a rtr.

Hmm, I will have to weigh the 2 setups one of these days unless someone is kind enough to do so before installing lol.

The shafts I would assume those are a standard part number, I to would think it would be more beneficial to have a hair longer shaft and the cups sucked in to the diff more. Would of helped prevent what dickyT did to his setup.

I'm sure some others will chime in with better answers.

[DickyT]

The spider gears are sintered metal in the kit. If you have concerns for their durability, go with the hpi spider gears.

[802coma]

Update for sh0rtbus...

The Gearhead aluminum glue ons will not work with Eriks slw hubs. The bolt pattern is larger.

If going with his bully hex adapters to run this you will need to confirm the spacing. If these worked...the less backspaced setting will rub the steering arm on the hubs narrow setting.






P.S. Sorry for the crappy pics. Only had my cell phone handy.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by 802coma

The Gearhead aluminum glue ons will not work with Eriks slw hubs. The bolt pattern is larger.

This annoys me... And not the Erik's configuration part of it, but that Gearhead steps away from the "industry standard" VP spacing that all other rims that don't have built in hexes seems to use.

At least 12mm Bully hexes should be able to rectify the gearhead issue, though as you said, you will most likely only be able to run them on the greater backspaced side.

Now I do get it, from a business perspective they make more money by using a non standard bolt pattern, forcing you to buy their hubs... It still annoys me though...

[Sh0rtBus]

Originally Posted by DickyT

This annoys me... And not the Erik's configuration part of it, but that Gearhead steps away from the "industry standard" VP spacing that all other rims that don't have built in hexes seems to use.

At least 12mm Bully hexes should be able to rectify the gearhead issue, though as you said, you will most likely only be able to run them on the greater backspaced side.

Now I do get it, from a business perspective they make more money by using a non standard bolt pattern, forcing you to buy their hubs... It still annoys me though...

Honestly it does me, too, but that's the wheel I wanted so I wasn't left with any options. I will say, though, that they don't seem to be much heavier than stock so when the say "lightweight" they really mean it! I'll see if I can weigh one of them this evening before I glue the RBIIs on. Fronts are done; still have the rears to go. Running them flipped in the rear for a little wider stance. Looks good, too, IMO with the deeper dish on the rear.

But if I'm reading right, I should be able to make it work if I run the Bully hex adapters? Don't really have any issue running the wider offset. Might decrease my turn radius some, but would provide a little more stability.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by Sh0rtBus

Honestly it does me, too, but that's the wheel I wanted so I wasn't left with any options. I will say, though, that they don't seem to be much heavier than stock so when the say "lightweight" they really mean it! I'll see if I can weigh one of them this evening before I glue the RBIIs on. Fronts are done; still have the rears to go. Running them flipped in the rear for a little wider stance. Looks good, too, IMO with the deeper dish on the rear.

But if I'm reading right, I should be able to make it work if I run the Bully hex adapters? Don't really have any issue running the wider offset. Might decrease my turn radius some, but would provide a little more stability.

You will need to be a little creative, but yes.

Use these: 12mm Wheel Hubs for V6 XVD and Super Bully Axle

Then 4 mm screws in to the center hole. The creative part will come with using some washers. A few with an 8mm hole in them to slide over the ofna stub and push against the wheel, then 1 with a 4mm hole in it to mount on the screw and provide pressure on ones on the stub to hold the wheel in place.

Does this make sense?


Another option is to get enough support on board to get Erik to make a hub at gearhead spacing. but that will take more than 1 or 2 people wanting it. He will need to design a new hub, so it needs to make business sense to him.


Edit: I have the bully hexes on my 2.2 pro rig, and superbully. I will test fit tonight to show exactly what clearances are, so you can gauge what you would need in the way of washers.

[dasco]

Originally Posted by DickyT

You will need to be a little creative, but yes.

Use these: 12mm Wheel Hubs for V6 XVD and Super Bully Axle

Then 4 mm screws in to the center hole. The creative part will come with using some washers. A few with an 8mm hole in them to slide over the ofna stub and push against the wheel, then 1 with a 4mm hole in it to mount on the screw and provide pressure on ones on the stub to hold the wheel in place.

Does this make sense?


Another option is to get enough support on board to get Erik to make a hub at gearhead spacing. but that will take more than 1 or 2 people wanting it. He will need to design a new hub, so it needs to make business sense to him.


Edit: I have the bully hexes on my 2.2 pro rig, and superbully. I will test fit tonight to show exactly what clearances are, so you can gauge what you would need in the way of washers.

Sweet I look forward to seeing what it looks like..Erick said it will be wider with them on..but my motoworx wheels are more of a flush mount to the front thatn deep dish

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by dasco

Sweet I look forward to seeing what it looks like..Erick said it will be wider with them on..but my motoworx wheels are more of a flush mount to the front thatn deep dish

I can only show as far as the hexes on the stubs. I do not have my gearhead wheels for my SCX build here yet. And when they do get here along with everything else coming in that box from RPP, I am sure as heck not going to be test fitting them to my Yeti

I'll have my work cut out for me! DT's WranglAR - Just another Jeep

But I will get pictures of the hexes on the stubs posted in this thread after I get home from work and get the family fed tonight

[DickyT]

Good news Yeti fans! The ofna stubs and bully stubs are the same length past the pin hole. The end of the stub sits flush with the edge of the hub.




The only messing around you will need to do is maybe sanding the wide shim (between the hex and knuckle bearing to fit, and maybe a little grinding on an M4 screw to securely seat the wheel and lock against the pin to retain it.



This is not the way I am setting my rig up, so sorry guys, I'm not going to chase down exact sizes needed, but it should be an easy process for anyone with some sand paper, a dremel and the willingness to make their setup work!

[DickyT]

A little more info on this. You will most likely need to sand\file a little bit off of the wide spacer to get the bully hex on. Go slow and test fit often:




You will probably also want a 4mm inner diameter washer to seat against the rim. The screw pictured barely covers the hole in a vp hub:

[802coma]

Very cool DickyT!! I'll add that info into the first post for people once I'm off my iPod lol. I have a few buddies that will be pumped about this!!

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by 802coma

Very cool DickyT!! I'll add that info into the first post for people once I'm off my iPod lol. I have a few buddies that will be pumped about this!!

Hope the info is useful to some people. We got lucky that I just happen to have a set super bully stubs and hexes mounted to sds super 300 shafts in my Dlux superlite berg axles... lol Yes that took a bit of work, but was worth it for a no slop hex setup!

I will add, take the time to get the m4 screw length perfect, do NOT rely on that little rubber band that comes with the hexes to retain the pin. The band will find a way to fall off and you will have a run away wheel and missing pin. The screw length is perfect when it holds the wheel on securely while bottoming out on the pin.

[Erik D_lux]

Good info, thanks Dicky!

Its a lot easier to use a set screw and a nut to hold the wheel on. Then its just like a typical Axial setup.

I had something else to say about this but forgot...

[Rockwolf]

Man I think I just screwed the pooch on this! I received my D Lux set up Saturday, and did not check here before ordering a set of aluminum rims from RPP! I am sure there is a chance they might work.... But with my luck, I won't hold my breath! But either way, I will snap pics and post em here for your "Fit / don't fit" list