Life of one YETI - Tom Frajer's Axial Yeti build log

[TomFrajer]

Underdriven bevel gears for front and rear just came in together with 3S LiPo battery pack. Today I will try new battery and then once again dissasemble both front and rear end to swap stock bevels for new HD ones. This time we will see how thick white teflon grease is performing Another thing I will do is installation of new sway bar (the one I have from factory has missing threading on right side).

[TomFrajer]

Back to the rod ends. I have done my research and found this:

Shorter Traxxas 5347 rod ends are long 22mm
Longer Traxxas 5525 rod ends are long 28mm

Summing this together, total length is 50mm
Ball hole is 3mm diameter and threading is M4

What I'm going to do is order bunch of these aluminium rod ends:
Ball Head Holder Tie Rod End 3mm Hole M4 4mm Thread 25mm Length Link Rod End For RC Hobby Model Car Upgraded Hop Up Parts AXIAL-in Parts & Accessories from Toys & Hobbies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

These are 25mm long and it means that I can use them on both ends of Vanquish Titanium Rear Upper Links and maintain total length of 50mm

My plan is to use same rod ends on front links - I will cut or file them as needed to shorten them to 22mm.

[TomFrajer]

Originally Posted by shiftauto

Are they threaded all the way into the rod ends? Hope you get it sorted out. All of my breaks have been stock parts, axle housing, driveshaft, steering linkage, servo horn. Now that I said that I'll probably breake something important.haha

I checked some photos of Yetis on the net and some people are putting longer rod ends towards the body and shorter ones to the axle. Will try this together with upper mount positions and I will also reverse rods (they are little longer on one side). Maybe this will help...

[DeviledEggs]

I used trx revo ends and a piece of 8-32 allthread (m4 works too) for my servo link. Much more robust than stock.
And with the rear links, you WILL keep breaking the longer rod ends. The issue is that the link doesnt thread all the way in, leaving a gap inside the rod end. The longer Currie upper links and normal length rod ends (revo's) will solve youre issue.
Oh, and good choice with the underdrive gears. You may also want to drop a tooth or two off your pinion before you use that 3s pack...

[TomFrajer]

Here is how it starts:



Aluminium rod ends are final solution, but for now I will try to swap longer and shorter plastic ones. We will see...

[Rjohn929]

Originally Posted by DeviledEggs

I used trx revo ends and a piece of 8-32 allthread (m4 works too) for my servo link. Much more robust than stock.
And with the rear links, you WILL keep breaking the longer rod ends. The issue is that the link doesnt thread all the way in, leaving a gap inside the rod end. The longer Currie upper links and normal length rod ends (revo's) will solve youre issue.
Oh, and good choice with the underdrive gears. You may also want to drop a tooth or two off your pinion before you use that 3s pack...

This is exactly why you are breaking them. You'll probably break the aluminum ones as well. You need longer links to really fix the problem.


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[TomFrajer]

Originally Posted by Rjohn929

This is exactly why you are breaking them. You'll probably break the aluminum ones as well. You need longer links to really fix the problem.


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Will the medium length aluminium rod ends (same on both ends) hold up? I already ordered them so I will do another experiment - maybe this will help other people too...

[Rjohn929]

It's hard to say. They might? I have found that the aluminum ends wear out quicker at the ball as well. So you may have added another failure point to your problem.


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[TomFrajer]

Originally Posted by DeviledEggs

I used trx revo ends and a piece of 8-32 allthread (m4 works too) for my servo link. Much more robust than stock.
And with the rear links, you WILL keep breaking the longer rod ends. The issue is that the link doesnt thread all the way in, leaving a gap inside the rod end. The longer Currie upper links and normal length rod ends (revo's) will solve youre issue.
Oh, and good choice with the underdrive gears. You may also want to drop a tooth or two off your pinion before you use that 3s pack...

Can you please put a link for the longer Currie links? I'm wondering wich ones are they. Right now I'm running 17 tooth pinion, should I drop down to 16 with UD bevels? I thought it will be OK running 17 pinion with UD's on 3S

[shiftauto]

Per the vanquish site, centered Currie must useTitanium upper link kit VPS07201 and traxxas jato rod endsVPS07500(TRA5525)

[Rjohn929]

Well that's not going to help at all. Those are just standard yeti rods with the long ends.


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[TomFrajer]

HELL! 3S is crazy power! Done this with stock bevels, reversed rear upper links (longer rod ends mounted to the body) and they hold! What broke is the steering link again!

[shiftauto]

[QUOTE=Rjohn929;5536943]Well that's not going to help at all. Those are just standard yeti rods with the long ends.


That's what I was thinking. Was trying to find the longer ones for the Currie but I found that info instead....

[shiftauto]

3S is where it's @ Tom! It's prob time you make your own link with the all thread and tubing. It'll hold up much better and is cheap.

[DeviledEggs]

^^ Yep, same as mine. But I see you went the extra mile and sleeved your allthread. I couldnt be bothered.

Tom, I couldnt find a link for the longer uppers but I got them from Dlux Fab. Hes a vendor here. Shoot him a PM and im sure he'll get you sorted. Eric is super helpful and wont sell you something you dont need.

[shiftauto]

Lol, I got lucky and had a piece of scrap sitting on the work bench that was almost perfect so I threw it on. It's actually just a tad short but the pic is disguising it. Dlux will be the next vendor on here I start purchasing some parts from. Heard nothing but good stuff about his products

[magic_yeti]

a yeti on 2s and on 3s is like dr. jekyll and mr. hyde

i have this feeling on 3s using 1st gear (2s) and 2nd gear (3s):-)


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[TomFrajer]

Yes, it was freakin powerfull. I was not able to go on full throttle most of the time like on 2S. On asphalt when full throttling from stop, front wheels was almost lifting from the ground and I started loosing track. Now it is real FUN. 2S is boooring :-D

I bent rear Currie axle once again. Still waiting for titanium ones from CREEPERBOB...

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

a yeti on 2s and on 3s is like dr. jekyll and mr. hyde

i have this feeling on 3s using 1st gear (2s) and 2nd gear (3s):-)


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[magic_yeti]

the front sway bar helps on mine to keep it way better controlable. and the rear shocks have to be a way stiffer with a little more pre load to keep front down. i have some test results in my thread cause i'm working on this with my setup
if i don't breake stuff ... and have to wait for replacements

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[TomFrajer]

Of course I will tune it up. This was just first test of new 3S battery. I dropped it in and get the car out to see how it runs and if it break something

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

the front sway bar helps on mine to keep it way better controlable. and the rear shocks have to be a way stiffer with a little more pre load to keep front down. i have some test results in my thread cause i'm working on this with my setup
if i don't breake stuff ... and have to wait for replacements

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