Hobbywing Quicrun Waterproof 1080 Brushed Crawling ESC

[Hardcoretam]

Originally Posted by NOFX

Cheers mate. So it potentially does have a low power mode before cutting right out.

I'm pretty sure it does but hopefully someone else can confirm.
I wasn't sure if it was either a low power mode just before LVC stopped power completely or if it was the way Lipos perform, just when they're about to reach LVC.

It's always obvious though when LVC is approaching and i have about 50% power tops before it.

[akatz]

Originally Posted by Hardcoretam

I'm pretty sure it does but hopefully someone else can confirm.

I wasn't sure if it was either a low power mode just before LVC stopped power completely or if it was the way Lipos perform, just when they're about to reach LVC.



It's always obvious though when LVC is approaching and i have about 50% power tops before it.

I can't %100 confirm that's what it is but mine does the same, goes to about half power but I always just change my battery and have never tried seeing if it completely stops.

[NOFX]

Cheers guys, it sounds like it is dropping to 50% power like the 1060 does. The 1060 goes to 50% power when the pack hits 6.5v, then full cut when it hits 6.0v.

I'll have mine up and running in just over a week so this is something i'll test out and report back

[Ambis]

About the power button:

There was a post here about removing the power button and connecting the two reds after calibration for always-on.

Has anyone tried if the SET button actually just connects the black and white wires?

I was thinking if this is the case, I could add a JST to them and make a "bind plug" with another connector.

[Ambis]

Originally Posted by Ambis

Has anyone tried if the SET button actually just connects the black and white wires?

I tried this yesterday.

Answer is NO. With multimeter, nothing happened between black and white when SET was pressed. But something did happen between the middle red and black.

I tried starting the ESC up with the red ones connected and it indeed worked.

I decided to put the power button back on. Very ugly, and now that ESC is the spare.

I'll be here waitin' with my subscription if anyone ever posts a way to get rid of the power button and still retain the SET functionality... My skills with electronics ended here.

[Ambis]

And oh, BTW, you can run your lights (at least a few simple LEDs) off of the programming port if you are short on free ports on your receiver. It supplies 6 volts at all times.*** Plug in a servo lead (with no signal wire) and your good to go!

*** I didn't test the 6v, but the programming card only works on 6v, so even if you run the BEC at 7.4v, shouldn't the programming port put out only 6v still?

[redemon]

Originally Posted by Ambis

And oh, BTW, you can run your lights (at least a few simple LEDs) off of the programming port if you are short on free ports on your receiver. It supplies 6 volts at all times.*** Plug in a servo lead (with no signal wire) and your good to go!

*** I didn't test the 6v, but the programming card only works on 6v, so even if you run the BEC at 7.4v, shouldn't the programming port put out only 6v still?

If this is true and doesnt burn the truck down that would be sweet. I just need to run a 2 inch light bar in the front of my truck

[Ambis]

I did test it with my Simple Axial LED light controller and the lights did turn on from the programming port. Altough I have absolutely no clue how much load it can take. So careful with them light bars etc.

[redemon]

I would think a smaller light bar would be fine, they have maybe three leds in them.

[Hardcoretam]

Had a problem with mines tonight sadly and it's a pretty bad one i think

Was doing rock crawling, hill climbing etc and everything was super cool.
Done it dozens of times on same set up. Doesn't even get warm
Driving back down the hill, i had about 3/4 throttle.
Front axle hooked onto a rock and motor went under extreme load for about 1 and a half seconds. I released power, and hear a loud and sharp hiss, like someone had stabbed a car tyre but not as loud
On visual inspection, the capacitor has swollen a little at the top and the hiss was it spraying oil out onto the wires and smell of burning electrics

Reconnected battery and tested for about 20 seconds and still "seems" fine but worried about

1) What caused the capacitor to pop. Everyone was still cold to the touch
2) What is the capacitor's purpose?
3) Can it still be used?

[Ninomaniac]

The cap is an energy buffer between battery and ESC, basically. Helps smooth out current peaks that the ESC demands from the battery. Don't know if it serves any other purpose.

Could be a fluke, they're not the most dependable components in general. Looks like a bitch to replace, I'd give it another test and run without it, but that's just me. :P

[NOFX]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

The cap is an energy buffer between battery and ESC, basically. Helps smooth out current peaks that the ESC demands from the battery. Don't know if it serves any other purpose.

Could be a fluke, they're not the most dependable components in general. Looks like a bitch to replace, I'd give it another test and run without it, but that's just me. :P

Agreed, The capacitor helps smooth out voltage when there is a high load and the battery can't supply the required amps/volts. Capacitors can be a bit unreliable, i've never worked out what makes them go pop but they do it from time to time. It looks fairly in-built in the esc, effectively impossible to change out, i had thought of running an additional capacitor by stripping some of the insulation around the battery wires close to the esc and soldering on one of those capacitor packs hobbywing make

in short though, your esc should still work without it and i dont think it'll melt down because the capacitor is not working, or you could send it to HW for repair i suppose

[NOFX]

I wired up my 1080 in my car last night, its a quality piece of kit, the on/off/setup button feels really solid, whats the reason people are looking to remove it?

Calibration went smoothly, i had to reverse channel 2 on my radio so it would pick up that i was pulling the throttle, i tested a few of the settings. for those who want to understand/utilise the neutral width setting, the key is, once you have calibrated the esc, drop the neutral bandwith to the lowest setting (you want to use the smallest bandwidth that works with your radio because i was finding i had a fair amount of trigger movement from neutral before the esc picked up any throttle on the standard setting). on the lowest setting i ran it through a to full throttle and back to neutral and the led was off so i knew it was fine, i pulled the brake and went back to neutral and found it was still flashing like it was still applying a little brake, so i went up to the level 2 retested it and re-calibrated to make sure and it was perfect.

As reported by others the PWM setting has an effect, you can hear it in the motor on low throttle, the "whining" is gone when using the higher frequencies

I'll be giving it a run on Sunday so i'll test out the low voltage cutoff and a few other settings

Cheers

[MiteyF]

Originally Posted by NOFX

Agreed, The capacitor helps smooth out voltage when there is a high load and the battery can't supply the required amps/volts. Capacitors can be a bit unreliable, i've never worked out what makes them go pop but they do it from time to time. It looks fairly in-built in the esc, effectively impossible to change out, i had thought of running an additional capacitor by stripping some of the insulation around the battery wires close to the esc and soldering on one of those capacitor packs hobbywing make

in short though, your esc should still work without it and i dont think it'll melt down because the capacitor is not working, or you could send it to HW for repair i suppose

If you mash the throttle with a big motor and an ESC capable of pulling big amps, and a battery that is unable to match that, your caps can die. I killed a SW3 this way, with a battery that was not capable of supplying the amps that the ESC was asking for.

[Hardcoretam]

I usually run a 5000mah 30c 3s so "should" be good for approx 150a constant so hoping i will be able to get away with driving it this weekend on a 35t motor without too much voltage ripple then will try and solder in another cap into the wires prior to the blown one

[Ninomaniac]

Y U no ask for replacement?

[Hardcoretam]

Originally Posted by Ninomaniac

Y U no ask for replacement?

I'm gonna try but either way it won't help me for my clubs main event this weekend. We only get 1 every couple of months so going to run it on a good battery to prevent voltage ripple i think and see how i get on. If it survives and they don't replace it, i'll try soldering another cap on externally and see how i get on.

[Ambis]

Originally Posted by NOFX

the on/off/setup button feels really solid, whats the reason people are looking to remove it?

Mainly because it's something you have to remember to use when you put the battery in (and BEFORE) you put the body on in most cases.

Also, if you use an external BEC, it will power the servo (or whatever) even when the ESC is off.

Yesterday I removed CCBEC from my Jeep (mainly because of space limitations) and added an extra cap. I'm hoping the ESC's BEC will be enough to power SB-2270SG (32kg).


I just realized: It has been proven that if you eg. tape down the power button, it will keep the ESC on. Since the power button case is held together only by two small phillips screws: I'm going to make a styrene replacement for the red power button that will keep the underlying power button firmly pressed down at all times \o/

[NOFX]

Originally Posted by Ambis

Mainly because it's something you have to remember to use when you put the battery in (and BEFORE) you put the body on in most cases.

Also, if you use an external BEC, it will power the servo (or whatever) even when the ESC is off.

Yesterday I removed CCBEC from my Jeep (mainly because of space limitations) and added an extra cap. I'm hoping the ESC's BEC will be enough to power SB-2270SG (32kg).


I just realized: It has been proven that if you eg. tape down the power button, it will keep the ESC on. Since the power button case is held together only by two small phillips screws: I'm going to make a styrene replacement for the red power button that will keep the underlying power button firmly pressed down at all times \o/

Cool that makes sense. How did you add the extra cap? just on the battery wires?

Cheers

[xkill]

NOFX
I like them too ;)

Cheers from Portugal!!