Coming soon .....GMADE GOM-GR1 Rock Buggy

[TooOldForThis]

After hours of trimming, here we are. It actually fits a lot better than I expected. If the whole body were 1/2" longer it would be perfect, but this isn't bad. You have to take out the windshield and let the hoop at the front poke through the grill, but that's it. As a bonus, it will stay on by itself without any body clips.

[smog]

Originally Posted by TooOldForThis

After hours of trimming, here we are. It actually fits a lot better than I expected. If the whole body were 1/2" longer it would be perfect, but this isn't bad. You have to take out the windshield and let the hoop at the front poke through the grill, but that's it. As a bonus, it will stay on by itself without any body clips.

It’s hard to see the definition on the clear lexan, but from what I see it looks amazing. Nice trimming! Stoked to see it all painted up

[mikemcE]

Agreed! Looks killer as a truggie !


Hang up and Drive

[Dustinf]

Really nice work trimming...

I agree with everyone else. Looks great as a truggy.

[Dustinf]

i somehow bent one of the cva's on my first run.... i wasnt even jumping it. Just cornering.

I don't really understand it... and have no idea how to replace just the part without buying a whole other set.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Dustinf

i somehow bent one of the cva's on my first run.... i wasnt even jumping it. Just cornering.

I don't really understand it... and have no idea how to replace just the part without buying a whole other set.

Junfac has horrible quality.
I’ve exploded two sets on my R1,
Never found a cure .


Hang up and Drive

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Junfac has horrible quality.
I’ve exploded two sets on my R1,
Never found a cure .


Hang up and Drive

You tried telling me! You were right.

That turning radius was too good to be true.

But, yeti shaft ends might just work.

[soze]

So my parts were set to arrive today......that required signature..... that I missed by 5min. I guess I have to pick up at the P.O. on Monday...

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by soze

So my parts were set to arrive today......that required signature..... that I missed by 5min. I guess I have to pick up at the P.O. on Monday...

That's the worst. I had to sign for mine too.. luckily I made it a point to be there.

But none of it mattered.. gom is down until I figure out this bent cva situation.

[soze]

Originally Posted by Dustinf

That's the worst. I had to sign for mine too.. luckily I made it a point to be there.

But none of it mattered.. gom is down until I figure out this bent cva situation.

I'm hoping GPM or someone else ends up making CVAs for this truck. For my Sawback I bought the Junfac ones, but also got the GPM ones for backup. I have not had any issues with the Sawback ones yet though. Most people who wrecked them seemed to be running 3S power while I'm still running 2S.

[Dustinf]

Mine bent taking a sharp corner. Then a mild jump finished off the bend.

I don't see why exo/yeti parts won't work if retrofitted. I'm trying this soon and will report back.

I've never had an issue with the cvds on my yeti. And I put that thing through hell.

[mikemcE]

I’ve bent many on my Yeti.
Dlux titanium solved that issue for me. Bottoming out was causing it


Hang up and Drive

[Jay-Em]

Originally Posted by Dustinf

somehow bent one of the cva's on my first run.... i wasnt even jumping it. Just cornering.

I don't really understand it... and have no idea how to replace just the part without buying a whole other set.

I suddenly feel vindicated in my insistence on using the dogbones usually provided in the kits, instead of investing in -expensive- cvd’s, after a very bad, and -again, expensive- experience with my Wraiths. Usually I dó go CVD, but only after the dogbones give up the ghost, nòt as a ‘first must-have’

Shame though, because I was already considering CVD’s.

I dó understand how it happened, I think.

CVD’s have a max angle at which they function. The trick is knowing when they start to ‘bop’ ergo: when they start getting angle-locked. The ‘bopping’ is a sign they are at their max. When you are dilligent in adjusting steering, one usually backs-off a few degrees from that point by adjusting steering-throw accordingly. After that they might seem ok at first, no notchy feeling, but when driving a very sharp corner with a reasonably grippy and weighty car, the forces increase exponentially, and the induced wheel slap, swings the axle juuuust a bit beyond their max angle, resulting in either a shattered coupling, or a bent shaft ìn the housing, the long part.

If You bent the short bit holding the wheel, well, in that case I have no clue whatsoever. Crummy badly hardened -and thus bendy, instead of hardened- steel is the only thing I can think of. But that’s more common on brand-less china cars, not a ‘proper’ manufacturer like Gmade, or Junfac. Though, like in any mass-produced item, some duds dó slip through QC. (And the finish on junfac is often somewhat rough, admittedly)

Again, shame. Sad thing is, there’s more & more signs allover the interwebs that the GOM is not the best for hard bashing and/or crawling. It seems to be a reasonably capable trailing-rig, maybe even more than reasonable, but is not that good at the extremes.

Powerful BL systems -despite Gmade’s indications- should not be used in the GOM, me thinks, let alone 3s. I’ll keep it at my humble 17t double. It won’t break speed records, and won’t do big jumps, like the Yeti, or Bomber, but it also won’t break- and spit-out parts allover the place.

(Despite the niggles, I stìll don’t understand Harley’s insta-hate, though)

[soze]

So, I got my upgraded Hi-Lo shift fork part and had to take out the transmission (I've built up the truck all the way to the cage, but without the side panels on). I decided to make this part of my plan to figure out what the best way to get to it is.

I was able to take out the transmission without taking apart the front cage area/links/shocks apart. I basically took off the cage, pulled out the transfer case first.... then dropped and slid the transmission out (6 screws to remove).

Now looking at it some more. I think you might be able to pull the transmission out without even taking off the cage, but you would have to take apart the lower half of the front-end (not including cage) in order to drop the receiver/servo tray and see if you can slide out the transmission forwards.

[Jay-Em]

I am already looking at sliding-out the trans from the front by removing the electronics tray. Not because of nice alu shifter forks, but because of a booboo on my side... I forgot the little cover thingy for the slipper.... dang! Taped the hole shut, but, being a slightly ocd type, I cannot stand the idea of a part missing in a car, needed or not..

By the by, I wonder why Gmade seems to think that a slipper never needs any adjustment. The thing is unreachable when the car is fully built... weird.

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

I suddenly feel vindicated in my insistence on using the dogbones usually provided in the kits, instead of investing in -expensive- cvd’s, after a very bad, and -again, expensive- experience with my Wraiths. Usually I dó go CVD, but only after the dogbones give up the ghost, nòt as a ‘first must-have’

Shame though, because I was already considering CVD’s.

I dó understand how it happened, I think.

CVD’s have a max angle at which they function. The trick is knowing when they start to ‘bop’ ergo: when they start getting angle-locked. The ‘bopping’ is a sign they are at their max. When you are dilligent in adjusting steering, one usually backs-off a few degrees from that point by adjusting steering-throw accordingly. After that they might seem ok at first, no notchy feeling, but when driving a very sharp corner with a reasonably grippy and weighty car, the forces increase exponentially, and the induced wheel slap, swings the axle juuuust a bit beyond their max angle, resulting in either a shattered coupling, or a bent shaft ìn the housing, the long part.

If You bent the short bit holding the wheel, well, in that case I have no clue whatsoever. Crummy badly hardened -and thus bendy, instead of hardened- steel is the only thing I can think of. But that’s more common on brand-less china cars, not a ‘proper’ manufacturer like Gmade, or Junfac. Though, like in any mass-produced item, some duds dó slip through QC. (And the finish on junfac is often somewhat rough, admittedly)

Again, shame. Sad thing is, there’s more & more signs allover the interwebs that the GOM is not the best for hard bashing and/or crawling. It seems to be a reasonably capable trailing-rig, maybe even more than reasonable, but is not that good at the extremes.

Powerful BL systems -despite Gmade’s indications- should not be used in the GOM, me thinks, let alone 3s. I’ll keep it at my humble 17t double. It won’t break speed records, and won’t do big jumps, like the Yeti, or Bomber, but it also won’t break- and spit-out parts allover the place.

(Despite the niggles, I stìll don’t understand Harley’s insta-hate, though)

I bent the part that holds the wheel. I think it was just a dud. When I went to straighten it, the tiniest taps of a hammer would bend it with ease... I know how carbon spring steel reacts and that felt like stainless or something with a low carbon content.

I emailed them about buying just that piece and while they replied fast asking for pictures, I havnt heard back since I sent them.

I only use 2s, but 4100kv is a bit much. I'm debating pulling that setup and going for something slower... I could just drive it slower, But the temptation is too great.

That turning radius was too good to be true maybe. It was a whole different rig with an open diff, CVA''s and firm tires/new wheels.


Still though, I've yet to do any other damage and I have pushed it quite far. The only parts to break or have issues are ones Ive added myself.

I do like brushed motors, and it can be fun not having unlimited power in a rig like this.

[Jay-Em]

Did You open the front diff?

I did, and the dogbones are fine. I think, when wanting to go fast(er) open front diffs are a must. You cannot always trust the underground to be ‘slippery’ enough to act as a faux diff. Grippy tires (and the GOM has those when scuffed for a bit) and lotsa power on the wheels with a locker, well, it stresses every bit quite seriously, especially when there’s also steering going on.

I’m not ready yet to open the rear diff though. I like the remaining crawling ability with just the rear locked too much to give that up fully. I actually have all of my crawler/rockracer cars opened up at the front, be it filled with the thickest diff oil I could get my hands on 500000-something. It’s a compromise, I know, but I do not crawl competitively, so I don’t mind.

[Dustinf]

Originally Posted by Jay-Em

Did You open the front diff?

I did, and the dogbones are fine. I think, when wanting to go fast(er) open front diffs are a must. You cannot always trust the underground to be ‘slippery’ enough to act as a faux diff. Grippy tires (and the GOM has those when scuffed for a bit) and lotsa power on the wheels with a locker, well, it stresses every bit quite seriously, especially when there’s also steering going on.

I’m not ready yet to open the rear diff though. I like the remaining crawling ability with just the rear locked too much to give that up fully. I actually have all of my crawler/rockracer cars opened up at the front, be it filled with the thickest diff oil I could get my hands on 500000-something. It’s a compromise, I know, but I do not crawl competitively, so I don’t mind.

Yeah, front diff is opened. And much better.

The gom is still extremely capable with an open front diff I was happy to see.

I seriously just think I got a bad batch. The stock dog bone cups took 20x what I gave the cva's and are still fine.

The only issue were the pin in the dog bone started creeping to one side. I had to limit my steering quite a bit to stop this.

Bomber cva's do not fit. They act like they should... fit the axle, fit the diff... perfect lenght.. right up until you try to mount the knuckle. Then the part that goes through the bearings is too long.

The parts that goes through the knuckle and attaches to the wheel..

What do you call it?

[84yoda]

Stub shaft.

[RcAnt]

I finally got my Gom today, my kit is missing the 40mm transfer output shaft :(