Building aluminum links question

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by PIMPNROCKS

Back when I was first on this website in 2007 we/I always built the links out of aluminum stock from the hardware store. The new method sounds much better!! Thanks again.

I've drilled/tapped steel rod on a couple of rigs. A little harder to work with but makes for a hella stout lower link.

[Charlie-III]

I've used Traxxas steel links with Nylon tubing over it (for lower links). The Nylon resists wear a ton better than "plastic plumbing line" since most of that is PE (PolyEthelyine) and is a lot softer.
I have also found harder plastic tubing on McMaster-Carr, issue is that most of it comes in a "minimum length" coil....... I can build a LOT of links & sleeve them.

A few years ago I tried various heat shrink tubes (Teflon was one) over steel & aluminum links but they have too thin a wall and tended to rip apart quickly.

Plain Delrin can be flimsy unless either large or with steel inside it.

[T_A]

i`m using 4mm all thread with a 4mm hole - 6mm od brass tubing , pretty strong and doesn't scratch so much.
the negative side is that its brass colored (orange) which isn't so bad for me since my SCX10 Rubicon is painted in gold...
as for rod ends , im using traxxas 5347 (4mm)

[crawlhog]

[QUOTE=6sharky9;4619254]Let me redeem myself for you.

To the OP....only buy VP links...Anything else material wise you try to make links from will just be garbage and worthless.


more useless advise from 6guppy9. yes VP links are good, but to say using any other material wont work is just plain ignorant. I've made links from all sorts of material and never had a problem.

I think the fact that your a crappy builder is why you come up with your useless comments maybe you should get a job , move out of moms basement and do something constructive other than giving out false information.

[BoyFreakWonder]

I have seen on some of the older rigs and recent one that they use some type of chromeish rod with a flat spot in the middle. It has threaded ends as well. Any ideas what they are called or where to get them?

[lemonhead]

Originally Posted by BoyFreakWonder

I have seen on some of the older rigs and recent one that they use some type of chromeish rod with a flat spot in the middle. It has threaded ends as well. Any ideas what they are called or where to get them?

its called a turn buckle

[BoyFreakWonder]

Looked it up. All I find are the ones used to tension wire.

[redneckracerx]

I understand that methods of build are always evolving, but, why is the "arrow" method not used as much? That's what I've been doing and never had problems. On a side note I want to make some bent links, obviously the arrow method will not work here, will the 8-32 allthread and 1/4" tube and JATO ends work for a heavy MOA super?

[WAM]

I'm not a fan of 8-32 allthread. I've never found it in decent grades and have had it snap right at the junction between the rod end and sleeve. 4mm threaded rod from McMaster is a better choice. On thread charts 8-32 is bigger than 4mm. In my hands with a digital caliper, the 4mm was actually the bigger. And more importantly you'll find McMaster sells a high strength 4mm TR. Look for the stuff graded 8.8 with a tensile strength of 115,000 psi. That's about double the strength of mild steel.

[Odd-M]

I've had VP titanium snapp right off on my Wraith. I don't know which type of titanium they use, but it seems a bit fragile when pushed to it's limits. TRX 5347 rod end is still in use, tells a lot of the strength in these.

The thing about materials is thay you can't have the best of both worlds, strength and ductility. Some materials are better than others combining this. Some materials break on yeild force, others stretch or bend. Aluminium is one of these that will bend a lot before it breaks, depending on alloy. Steel is a bit difficult, as there's countless types of it. I've done lab tests on rebar and you'd be amased how much is stretches before it looses force.

I'm kn the process of building my first own links. 5347, stainless 4 mm alltread, sleeved with some brass tubing i found at our local dealer. Could't find anything in aluminium or steel that would fit.

[Whiplashdjs]

Alum links is the question guys
7075 alum rod can be purchased online, I never could source 4mm 7075 on eBay. But I did find it in ?spelling? travers.
I haven't gotten time to make the links yet using that stock. But I think it will hold up fine for my crawlers. I like to cut to my desired length and bevel the ends before threading the rod ends, but I suppose you could drill out the rod ends and epoxy them on? I got some CF tube also, but it requires a resin based glue to put the rod ends on properly.
Let us know what u use if u try something not listed here, love hearing new ideas!

[WAM]

I guess I'm pretty hard on links, but I don't think 4mm or 1/8" solid aluminum rod is strong enough for my rigs. I've used 4mm CF rod with glued on rod ends and it's worked on short straight uppers, but buckled on longer rear uppers. So I recently bought some short lengths of Grade-5 titanium to replace the rears. Inexpensive from McMaster, but be sure to get only Grade-5. I haven't decided yet whether to thread the ends or just match drill the rod ends and epoxy them on like my CF links. I've previously purchased custom 1/8 Ti links and found the threads cut crooked, so it might be harder than it looks.

For bent lowers I use solid 3/16 Ti from VP. My aluminum links built like you guys are talking about just don't stand up to my 5-lb rigs. Another idea, I have a friend who bends up stainless steel tube and welds 4x30mm set screws into the ends. He used to do it with 3mm ends, but bent/broke them. The 4mm design has held up fine. Note set screws are of much stronger material than all-thread. Sorry if all this doesn't fit so well in an aluminum link thread, but been-there-done-that.


.

[JokersWild]

3/16 solid alum rod 6061 and a 10-24 die using revo rod ends.... #24 drill bit to open ends of rods.

[Whiplashdjs]

That's what I used for my first links I made, worked ok as long as bends were minimal, I accordioned the rear lowers on my Xr made from that. I really don't know wether the 4mm 7075 rod will hold up to me either, just the next step in my own evolution and though I might help u skip a couple steps.

Beside ti links, the strongest I've used is pegboard hooks. Some were steel, some an extremely hard alum. Had to drill the rod ends out to 5mm and bevel the ends of rod before using the die on them

[SINister]

Originally Posted by JokersWild

3/16 solid alum rod 6061 and a 10-24 die using revo rod ends.... #24 drill bit to open ends of rods.

This is the setup I use on my upper links and it works great, the aluminum rod does not hold up when used for lowers though.