Coming soon Yikong crawler

[BP6666VR]

I have been reading a lot on this forum regarding plastic vs aluminum vs brass, axels & parts

So i learned the following from all you guys

NO brass or aluminum axels as they do not flex like plastic & not "slide" over rocks compared to plastic, then it seems parts of brass is better or stronger then aluminum

Of course i just lost another super small part, a steering knuckle bushing, yet again a replacement needed ( i will add a picture of this part )

So because all the above posts about stripped tread and lost bushing i ordered the following

Brass C bushings (see picture)
Brass C hubb or block
Brass front steering portal
Brass rear portal
Brass weight (maybe no need this)
Brass wheel shaft extension 12 mm

Then the axels can stay plastic to reduce weight, one day, one day i will have this RC unbreakable, ha ha

Do you guys break stock parts like i do ? This is becoming extremely expensive hobby, but i like it a lot

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by BP6666VR

Do you guys break stock parts like i do ? This is becoming extremely expensive hobby, but i like it a lot
Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

yes thats one of the reasons i dont buy kits or rtrs i just buy the upgrade parts and peice the rig together from upgrades that way once its done your not breaking parts or spending more money
the other big reason is i cant aford to shell out the money for a complete kit or rtr so i guess it works out

once its built its built you end up saving money in the long run

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by ferp420

yes thats one of the reasons i dont buy kits or rtrs i just buy the upgrade parts and peice the rig together from upgrades that way once its done your not breaking parts or spending more money
the other big reason is i cant aford to shell out the money for a complete kit or rtr so i guess it works out

once its built its built you end up saving money in the long run

So you buy a frame & body then buy all the upgraded items like i am doing now ?

That sir is very awesome,

Frame, axels, gearbox, motors, the whole lightning kit, everything ... shebang pieced together?

You will end up with a unbreakable RC, not like me i am more fixing stuff then driving, ha ha

I paid USD 555.00 but i just went through my purchases and i already am another 555 into this RC, all the tools, spares, etc etc

I only have 1 RC



Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by ferp420

yes thats one of the reasons i dont buy kits or rtrs i just buy the upgrade parts and peice the rig together from upgrades that way once its done your not breaking parts or spending more money
the other big reason is i cant aford to shell out the money for a complete kit or rtr so i guess it works out

once its built its built you end up saving money in the long run

Any link to a RC build you did ?

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[twade984]

Originally Posted by BP6666VR

So you buy a frame & body then buy all the upgraded items like i am doing now ?

That sir is very awesome,

Frame, axels, gearbox, motors, the whole lightning kit, everything ... shebang pieced together?

You will end up with a unbreakable RC, not like me i am more fixing stuff then driving, ha ha

I paid USD 555.00 but i just went through my purchases and i already am another 555 into this RC, all the tools, spares, etc etc

I only have 1 RC



Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

Piecing together a rig can be a more cost effective way to build a reliable rig, but you also need to know what your end goal is. And if you don’t have experience with the different platforms, you may not know what works best for you.

Similar to you, I started with a less expensive truck (10.2 deadbolt) and had about $600 into it before realizing it would take a lot more to make it what I wanted.

It also depends on what part of the hobby you get the most enjoyment out of. Some people like buying an rtr or kit and upgrading little by little, some people like full scratch builds, some people are after pure performance, and some people just want the most accurate rig that looks good in pictures


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by twade984

It also depends on what part of the hobby you get the most enjoyment out of. Some people like buying an rtr or kit and upgrading little by little, some people like full scratch builds, some people are after pure performance, and some people just want the most accurate rig that looks good in pictures


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or be like me and build semi scale realism that kind of performs almost like a comp rig.

[BP6666VR]

After the boys RC all day the brushed motor was a bit too hot to touch, this is the second time i feel it has been too hot in the last few months, warm is good but burn your skin is not, ha ha

Did you guys installed motor fans ? Or is overheating only on brushed motors ? It's a brushed 775 black leather motor

There is not a lot of space to install a fan but i found one on AliExpress that is special for YK4082 ....



Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[lonleycreeper]

A brushed motor that is too hot generally means you are geared too high in a crawler.

[tigris99]

Originally Posted by BP6666VR

After the boys RC all day the brushed motor was a bit too hot to touch, this is the second time i feel it has been too hot in the last few months, warm is good but burn your skin is not, ha ha

Did you guys installed motor fans ? Or is overheating only on brushed motors ? It's a brushed 775 black leather motor

There is not a lot of space to install a fan but i found one on AliExpress that is special for YK4082 ....



Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

Brushed DC motors getting hot enough to burn your skin is 100% normal. Don't want it getting that hot, drive slower or don't let kids use it.

Heat sink will help a bit but isn't going to save anything, Still going to get hot if you run it hard.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by BP6666VR

Any link to a RC build you did ?

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

sure what flavor
scx10ii based gen7 pro gen7 super secret service build


lmc based d12 build i just couldent help my self wpl d-12 build


trx4 based truggie build the anti-traxxass trx4 build


scx6 build a nylint for axialfest build

og scx10/wraith based f150 newbright "the work truck" scx6 another f150 new bright build

wraith based new bright heep build barbies old jeep

scx10ii based barbie can build another new project 1/8 mini cooper

and a little guy from scrap parts build thrift store score and scrap build

these are just a few of my scratch builds and there are alot more that are built around ether used or new rtr or kits

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by tigris99

Brushed DC motors getting hot enough to burn your skin is 100% normal. Don't want it getting that hot, drive slower or don't let kids use it.

Heat sink will help a bit but isn't going to save anything, Still going to get hot if you run it hard.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Some good advice right there, thanks

If it is "normal" then i do not want the hassle of a cooling fan ... And you are right, over hot is of course not good, but it doesn't smell or doesn't feel it's super-hot

The car only gets hot on 3S when driving top speed for a long time, driving top speed up & down the road (that's what the kids like), crawling or playing doesn't make it hot (that's what I like)

Also i have in my parts box a stock a extra 775 motor that was only €19 euro





.

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

A brushed motor that is too hot generally means you are geared too high in a crawler.

I was searching for lower gear, but on a YiKong you cannot change the gear "yet" it's 16t hi/lo speed, but for now no reduction on the market yet ...

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[ferp420]

ive herd that brown leather motors run cooler than black leather motors but
metal motors work alot better who uses leather to build motors lol

sorry couldent help my self black leather motor lol
im sure they mean black lable lol but the website says its a black leather motor

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by ferp420

ive herd that brown leather motors run cooler than black leather motors but
metal motors work alot better who uses leather to build motors lol

sorry couldent help my self black leather motor lol
im sure they mean black lable lol but the website says its a black leather motor

Haaaaaa i was wondering this myself, such a strange name on the YiKongs website, chinese-ingrish to its finest

Just checked the motor name on the spare motor and it's just a normal name " 775 Brushed Motor 14062 Original Parts"

Mate, i am scrolling through your builds and they are so awesome, hats off to you my friend....



Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by BP6666VR

Mate, i am scrolling through your builds and they are so awesome, hats off to you my friend....


Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

thank you sir i got my insperation from this forum i couldent have built them if it wasent for what i learned from reading thousands of posts on here

i know there not up to the quality of some of these guys here some of these builds are just insane i still have fun with them and i enjoy yhe building prossess

[tigris99]

Originally Posted by BP6666VR

Some good advice right there, thanks

If it is "normal" then i do not want the hassle of a cooling fan ... And you are right, over hot is of course not good, but it doesn't smell or doesn't feel it's super-hot

The car only gets hot on 3S when driving top speed for a long time, driving top speed up & down the road (that's what the kids like), crawling or playing doesn't make it hot (that's what I like)

Also i have in my parts box a stock a extra 775 motor that was only €19 euro





.

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

It's a crawler, it's not meant to be driven at full throttle constantly. Get the kids something meant for them to run up and down the street.

That said, my boys have traxxas slash. I've been around rcs (never been really into the hobby until scale crawlers started becoming a bigger thing) most of my life. One of the first things I learn as a kid with my brother who raced RV professionally, NEVER EVER TOUCH THE MOTOR AFTER A RUN. Will burn the hell out of you.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

[BP6666VR]

Gentleman, i build a small crawler track in my garden, up in the tree, trough a waterhole in the tree, down again we go, it is a difficult track

2x the hand of the devil was used in this video, ha ha

https://youtu.be/owUd4I_4qSo

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[BP6666VR]

The foam inside the tires are really wet, if i squeeze water comes out, do i have to dismantle the tire / rim / foam ? Then it will be wet again ¿ What do you guys do ?

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk

[ferp420]

foams i side the tire really wouldent those suck up massive amounts of water if you look at them sideways why not use something that dosent matter if it gets wet like rubber or something

[BP6666VR]

Originally Posted by ferp420

foams i side the tire really wouldent those suck up massive amounts of water if you look at them sideways why not use something that dosent matter if it gets wet like rubber or something

I looked on YouTube about water inside RC tires

Do you mean that the foam doesn't suck up much water ? Maybe it's closed cell foam in the tires ? I used a lot of open & closed cell foam in my younger days

Just leave it as it is ? It doesn't bother me while driving...

EDIT: ok got it, drill 4 very small holes in each tire and be gone water, ha ha

https://youtu.be/10Ypor4_FBA

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk