on road cars anyone?

[y2kgtp]

Originally Posted by jetboat

We have gotten the bonus for 4 yrs now and it along with tax returns have went to pay off vehicles, vehicle repairs, student loans, savings goals etc. This is the first yr we have been essentialy debt free and have made our savings goals. I know with the baby that our spending will have to be contained and I think that is why Anita pushed for me to get the toy now as she knows this is my last chance. I do have to sell 2 rc's though but that's to make room for the tc...also, no new builds for 6 months which I think is fair.

What's really kind of sad, when you compare a 5b ss kit to let's say an e-revo, they come out to almost the same by the time you include the batteries needed to run the revo for any length of time. And the 5b can be driven non stop all day on about $3 worth of fuel. That's not me rationalizing, just saying how expensive rc has gotten (heck a crawler setup will cost you about the same if you can't build the parts yourself)


Back to road cars... a couple of coworkers that live near me have tc3 nitro's and think they can hold their own against bl power. They said the parking lot by the Romeoville highscool baseball field is fair game (1 of the guys is on the towns citizen police force and checked it out). As long its adults causing no harm and in a semi organized fasion we are free to use the lot if there is no other event going on.

Im sure you will be fine against a NTC3. I had a RTR one and it topped out 54mph on a venom speed meter best run.

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by xirtic

I am trying (looking on eBay and RCTech) for a Factory Team TC4 Roller that is in good condition. I have patience....and will keep looking. Thinking of dropping a sidewinder and a 5700 castle motor into it....running on 2 cells for racing and 3 cells for FUN.

Looks like I found a car. I just PayPal'd the guy the $$ for a Factory Team TC4 Roller. (with a Hitec HS5645MG servo, a NEW R9 F Body, and some extra misc parts). The price was right. I am gonna drop in a Castle Sidewinder....but still trying to make a decision on the motor. I am seriously leaning towards a TEKIN 448 (Sensorless 4800kv). People really rave about how smooth it is, and it also offers a bit more torque than the Mamba 4600....while I could still throw 3 cells at it for speed runs and 2 cells for racing. I will probably buy a 2nd body as well....just not certain which one yet.

[jetboat]

The sidewinder/4600 deal Erik offered up sealed the deal for me. I've got the same combo in my slash and it works very well... if we were doing real racing I might consider something else but, for some autocross and throw downs against nitro's it will be fine.

As for you body choice... come on, stay with the vintage trend.

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by jetboat

As for you body choice... come on, stay with the vintage trend.

MOST vintage bodies that I am finding are set for 200mm. The TC4 is a narrow body with a 190mm. The 190mm choices are pretty ugly (BOLINK and PARMA make a few vintage uglies)...I think that I am going to have to choose a 190mm HPI body. I am leaning towards the LOTUS....unless there is a way to stretch the width of the TC4 to 200mm.

[jetboat]

I thought 200/190 reffered to the width? According to the hpi site, you can run a 200mm body by changing the wheel offset which tells me width not length. (200mm would be a really short wb)

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by jetboat

I thought 200/190 reffered to the width? According to the hpi site, you can run a 200mm body by changing the wheel offset which tells me width not length. (200mm would be a really short wb)

You are correct. I am still learning this as well. I have NEVER had a RC Touring Car.

[jetboat]

This is all new to me so, I have been reading a ton of stuff. The tire and wheel stuff is what's really confusing me... slicks versus tread, 26mm or 32mm. And then you get into drift tires and vintage tires. This was supposed to be a fun way to use up the parking lots that keep staring at me, not a learning experience.

If you want a different body, check out abcmodels. They have the old (late 70s) skyline gtr and the 240z racer bodies that they tried to get scca to let them run in t/a racing. They of course weren't allowed but, I do believe they allowed them in gt class which at some tracks was on course at the same time as the t/a cars

[AreCee]

Jeff is correct about using different offset wheels to fit the 200mm bodies. All the Vintage Trans-Am bodies are 200mm but the Camaro is 200 in front and 220 in the rear and fits better with the wider Vintage rear Wheel/tire at the 6* offset. The Vintage fronts are 3* offset. Problem is that you need the Vintage tires to use those Vintage wheels.

Or you can get HPIs regular 26mm wheels in offsets and those will accept the regular 1/10 tire.

Slicks or treaded? For clean areas the slicks rule, throw in some dust and dirt and the treaded rule.

Drift tires are designed to have minimum traction, they are very hard so you can throw the car into a sideways drift.

Racing slicks are nice and tacky but wear out very fast on asphalt.

Welome to the world or touring cars.

I have tons of older tires/wheels that are no longer useful for the track but have lots left for the parking lot. I'll be willing to let them go for real cheap.

[AreCee]

Originally Posted by jetboat

This is all new to me so, I have been reading a ton of stuff. The tire and wheel stuff is what's really confusing me... slicks versus tread, 26mm or 32mm. And then you get into drift tires and vintage tires. This was supposed to be a fun way to use up the parking lots that keep staring at me, not a learning experience.

If you want a different body, check out abcmodels. They have the old (late 70s) skyline gtr and the 240z racer bodies that they tried to get scca to let them run in t/a racing. They of course weren't allowed but, I do believe they allowed them in gt class which at some tracks was on course at the same time as the t/a cars

I believe those abcmodel bodies would be too small to fit either a TC3 or TC4. They are closer to the 1/10 scale Mini class or HPIs Cup Racer.

[AreCee]

If anyone is interested, I have a Schumacher Axsis II, a Tamiya TL-01 and a Corally RDX that I would be willing to sell. The Corally RDX woud be the most expensive at $125. I would sell the Schumacher for $50 and the Tamiya for $25.

[AreCee]

I just had a thought about your choice of ESC. If I remember correctly the Sidewinder doesn't have the smallest footprint. There is a space between the motor and the servo where the electronics go on the TC3/4. It's a very tight fit to get both an ESC and RX in that space. I managed with the smallest ESC at the time.

Worst case is that you servo tape the RX on top of the servo to make room for the ESC.

[jetboat]

You couldn't mention the schumacher before????

I played around with the tc3 and I think it shouldn't be bad getting it all in... worse case ill mount the rx on the battery bar like I did with my old indy car....actually esc and rx were on the bar.

Some of the abc fit the tc's some don't...you really have to pay attention

[AreCee]

I didn't know you guys were looking for on road bashers.

The Tamiya would be perfect 4wd, enclosed drivetrain, gear diffs, limited motor options and very durable.

Back to the TC3, I would keep the RX on the same side that the antenna fitting is and not stick it on a movable chassis member, hence the top of the servo. Did I mention that I had 2 TC3s and a NTC3?

I may have some spare diff parts up in Chicago and I will ferret out whatever TC3 items I still have and give them to you. Free

[jetboat]

Antenna hole??? What's that for? Spektrum... remember antenna prolly won't reach out of the body. The basher box always needs spare parts, I think several guys will be running tc3's due to there relative cheap price and enclosed gears...

I'm debating picking up some of the steel gears for the pti, they drop in the tc's but will they need them.

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by jetboat

Antenna hole??? What's that for? Spektrum... remember antenna prolly won't reach out of the body. The basher box always needs spare parts, I think several guys will be running tc3's due to there relative cheap price and enclosed gears...

I'm debating picking up some of the steel gears for the pti, they drop in the tc's but will they need them.

Everything that I am reading on the TC3/TC4 says that PROPER SHIMMING is the key to diffs not stripping. Metal just puts more forces thru the already high-stress driveline. Even a FRONT ONE-WAY causes some pretty serious part-breaking stress on these cars.

[AreCee]

Originally Posted by jetboat

Antenna hole??? What's that for? Spektrum... remember antenna prolly won't reach out of the body. The basher box always needs spare parts, I think several guys will be running tc3's due to there relative cheap price and enclosed gears...

I'm debating picking up some of the steel gears for the pti, they drop in the tc's but will they need them.

Didn't know if you were using Spektrum. The hole I was referring to is in the bottom of the chassis on the right side just behind the servo.

No, do not put metal gears in there. Those TC3 diffs are ball diffs not geared. It is the NTC3 that is geared.

[AreCee]

Originally Posted by xirtic

Everything that I am reading on the TC3/TC4 says that PROPER SHIMMING is the key to diffs not stripping. Metal just puts more forces thru the already high-stress driveline. Even a FRONT ONE-WAY causes some pretty serious part-breaking stress on these cars.

The shimming you speak of is to set the mesh of the pinion gear from the center shaft to the ring gear in the diff. You use shims where the outdrive bearings rest to move the inner assembly closer to the pinion. The differential itself is a ball diff (the part that the outdrives attach).

[jetboat]

Dave... we finally found a use for you

Seriously, its a good thing someone around here has a clue about going fast. All we know is crawling.

[AreCee]

Like I said, I've been racing TC since the mid 90s. I've raced both electric and nitro but prefer the electric.

Currently I'm racing 1S 13.5 1/12 scale and WGT. If you think TC is fast you ain't seen nuttn yet! These are strictly on carpet missiles though some will race them on very smooth prepared asphalt or concrete. The ground clearence is a mere 3mm for the 1/12 and 4mm for WGT.

BTW, that Schumacher only uses saddle packs.

[AreCee]

If you want to check out TC racing you should go to Underground Raceway located at 54th and State St. in Chicago's South Side (near the Former Robert Taylor Homes). They race on Sundays.

See Heinrich for some speed secrets (he cheats ) you can't miss him, he's the fast Fillipino or Kenji who has gone through just about every RC car imaginable (he bought my NTC3 and Yokomo GT-4).