klampyz 1/18 HSP Kulak / Losi MRC

[winnerone23]

Glad the info an thread is a help... Yeah the rx doesn't weigh anything, specially of you de-case it.. plus saves room.. ur battery up front on the links maybe the forward weight ur looking for.. always good to try before adding more to the wheels.. that's hard on the drive train..

Ok, just got done with the videos... I see, think, there are a couple things that will help.. one, ROVERS!... lol... Even chisels.. the tires an foams look to work right, on that limestone tho.. you need some crawler tires.. next is ur front end..
Try getting ur servo level or closer to it.. it aids in climbing an descending.. it won't be working against its self.. just by moving ur upper links back o hole in the chassis or by making th link ends shorter, if you don't have a hole to move back.. limit ur front shocks some.. good articulation, when sitting on ur table, lift one wheel until the back wheel just bout starts to lift.. out of my 3 I just checked, 3-4" is plenty an 3" is my comp 1.9.. 4" is the one I just got, so I haven touched that yet, to limit it or any setup for that matter.. just my thoughts an experience.

[klampykixx]

flex is just over the height of its tires. which i have always used as reference for capable rigs. i have limited it heaps from what it started with.

but ill definately suss out the servo position, but id be concerned that it will interfere with having the battery on the links if i drop the servo down.

thanks for the tips

[klampykixx]

i just did a bunch of what you suggested. measured the battery, and it fits between the shocks as they are. so i slipped it under the servo, on top of the upper front links. its only about 1/4 inch lower than it was, but thats still 10% lower and 2inches forwards =16%, which is good either way you look at it.. i also removed the heatsink off the ESC, it actually weighs a fair bit! and shifted the RX to where the battery was. ill take pics later, but can already feel that its more stable when i drive it on the couch... its my only reference point thats inside.... lol i also ground down the servo plate mounts, so it sits lower as well, still angled, but im not sure the angle is hindering anything, more so the lack of castor on the front steering. it was positive, now its pretty much 90 degree/ straight up-down.

it now balances on both sides when put rims to the table. only just, but it does!

cant think of anything else to add at this point. only thing left to do now is drive it and see how it runs! might get a chance tomorrow.

[klampykixx]

[klampykixx]

ok, so had a blow out tonight.

flipped backwards off my rockwall and broke the rim right off the hub :( kinda lucky i stopped when i did coz the other side was about to do the same, 3/5 spokes had separated.

so i then decided to try and unglue my tires from the rims in the hope i could just swap them over to the other set i have of the same rim. but no. i dont have any acetone to try with, and boiling them wasnt doing anything....

i bit the bullet.

ordered these>>

Leaving Facebook... | Facebook



zero offset compared to the 3mm offset i currently have, so will tuck them in a little, and also ordered a set of






ROVERS







so ill see if the hype about them is worthy. been told to get either rovers or sedonas or something like that... so be interesting for sure.

[klampykixx]

pc has been uncapped! so PICS AHOY!! :update:


firstly, the broken rim. kinda annoying coz i could NOT get the tire off. i havent tried any solvents on it, but boiling it didnt work, freezing it didnt work. and ive already bought tires n rims, so dont tell me some fandango way to get tires off plastic rims that were glued with Cyberbond!! :crazy:




and im running these stupid tires till i get my new ones... they well n truly SUCK!!! :banghead:




but previous mods that were unable to be photographed were new alloy steering link>




bent and narrowed rear end, including relocation of shocks to metal chassis instead of the plastic insert






shifted my front upper link back and down slightly on the chassis



which has dropped my pinion angle a bit, but has also returned my castor back to a slightly negative number instead of positive.




im thinking my ground clearance is a bit high, but any lower and it starts to hinder it, ill wait and see when i get the new rims/tires to see if i can lower it a bit.



and flex is only a smidgen over the height of its tires. its a little stiff atm, but i put that down to lighter rims on it atm.

[klampykixx]

ordered alloy C-hubs and swivel hubs last night for the front axle. ill probably order the alloy rear lockout and solid axle next week. trying to get it STRONG. its starting to bend stuff. . .

also thinking about stripping all the anodising off everything too. all black. ftw.


does anyone think that having an alloy skid is of any benefit over the plastic one?

[klampykixx]

heres pix.

my pile .




front setup




and the rear end, going to be extending rails out to accomodate the rear shocks, probably going to drop the short ones and replace them with the stock ones.

[klampykixx]

small progress, rear shocks/springs are attatched. they may have to get a bit softer yet.. dont want to risk bringing back the torque twist. still have to get a new front driveshaft after making one longer one out of two short ones. so currently only rear wheel drive, and ive managed to break one of the axle pins too.... :/

anyway, pics!

yes, MiniQLO chassis plates!








and bringing back the ford!



however, it doesnt fit on the chassis at all.... so next stop is to find me some aluminium or similar and cut and drill a fresh pair of TVPs to suit the new layout.

let me know what you think

[klampykixx]

got my rovers today!

theyre smaller than i was expecting... but really sticky

now i just need my rims to turn up...

[klampykixx]

omg. rovers. omg.

no weight on the front hubs at all, and it just attacks the lines my RockBashers would just spin at....






and then it broke again... :( so i put a longer screw in there. and also, now i need a new battery. mine isnt holding charge very well anymore. anyone know if the HSP ESC can handle 3s? its rated to 8.4V so im thinking not, but if someones tried it, im willing to as well.

[nelso92]

What i found to do is limit your flex very little in the rear and more in the front. When i first started my build i wanted as much flex as i could get after driving it for a while i liked it but it got bound up when it was really flexed out so i limited it and it handles alot better now.

[klampykixx]

thanks

the new setup is much better than before. i took it out yesterday, and discovered my CG had risen to an unacceptable level, so last night i drooped my rear shocks, and i must say, cg has dramatically improved, and flexes much better now too.

i also like the rear to be fairly stiff with a softer more flexxy front, but with the longer rear links, it seems to hinder it more than help. so drooped shocks seem softer and help the overall flex.

ill be taking it back out to the same spot tonight so will report back with results

[klampykixx]

and currently at 940g.

604g on the front, 340g on the rear.

[klampykixx]

running so well at the moment. very happy with it. needs a few bits attended to, like the steering, but waiting for my CVD shafts first.

got the body on. its just clipped on, but its ok for the moment.










and my new phone wallpaper.

[klampykixx]

did some stuff to my thing with some other things and such.



let there be light

[Jslick]

Rovers are comp winning tires. It still looks like your front axle and servo could be made more level. Like mentioned in a previous post it will improve the rigs ability to climb and turn even more.

[klampykixx]

Thanks for the input

The way the front axle is atm allows the suspension to compress when power is applied. More power gives more compression. which works really quite well when climbing coz it pulls the front down.

The axle itself is clocked to the best compromise of position vs space. My battery lives under the servo atm and if i clock it any further ill have to find a new home for the battery. So iv also clocked the Chubs back a bit more too.

Im really happy with it at this moment. Ill take it out tonight n see how it goes with the new body on

[thomass14]

zero ackerman knuckles help alot with steering. you can tap the knuckles you have, drill a new hole inline with the kingpins and make a longer link may help

[klampykixx]

yea thanks thomass, i have thought about that, but tbh, i think i like the ackerman factor, however, i do want to reverse the knuckles so the ackerman is working for me, not against me. and utilise a BTA draglink setup. just that theres not alot of room at all behind there as most people would know....


also just to add to Jslicks post, the angle of the servo is because i shortened the stubs that the servo normally sits on to achieve a lower CG. and now, its angled compared to the diff coz it sits down at the front more than the back.