89redranger's MRC Pro build/rebuild for 2014

[89redranger]

Or the stainless I mentioned before?

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

K&S 1/4"x0.035" aluminun tube.
Picked up these 9/16" shaft collars this morning for a little rear weight. Guessing they're around 3/4 oz each at this point, need a scale though. Also picked up some M2x20 screws to outboard my shocks. The cut down servo screws just weren't cutting it. These use a flathead driver, but will work just fine.



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I did this exact same thing, sort of. Same flathead hardware sourced at the local hardware store for the outboarding.

Locking collar used as the "bracket" for my wheel weight system out back.

Great minds think alike!! Hahaha

One quick suggestion would be to run a 2mm flat washer on the outside of your shock ball.

If the shock pops off the ball during a hard impact, it could escape the screw completely.

The factory location keeps the shock contained. The outboard setup does not.

Disconnected shock halfway through a course would be a real downer.

[89redranger]

Got a new problem. Ordered a few Associated 66T spurs, which showed up today. I drilled and installed one of them, only to find that it rubs on my front MIP. I'm not quite sure how the rest of you are running these, but I can't get it to fit. The spur centers up nicely on the MRC slipper, just won't clear the driveshaft. I guess I'll get to digging and find my 62T spur gear, was hoping to start out a little deeper geared on 3s.

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Got a new problem. Ordered a few Associated 66T spurs, which showed up today. I drilled and installed one of them, only to find that it rubs on my front MIP. I'm not quite sure how the rest of you are running these, but I can't get it to fit. The spur centers up nicely on the MRC slipper, just won't clear the driveshaft. I guess I'll get to digging and find my 62T spur gear, was hoping to start out a little deeper geared on 3s.

When I did my 66t mod, I only drilled the hole out big enough to fit over the input shaft.

Then I shaved the round raised section off the rear plate that used to align the 60t stock spur.

This brought the spur closer to the transmission.

I put the smooth side of the spur against the shaved back plate (backed it up a mm more than putting the pentagon/hexagon toward the trans).

Not sure if that would help you or not. I'm assuming it's hitting the cup of the MIP, and not the part that mounts to the transmission output.

That couple of millimeters might get you "behind" the cup and give you room to install the shaft.

Double check before doing it. I can't run my 62t spur now that I've shaved off the back plate. I always figured I could get a new one if I wanted to go back, but never have.

I'm not running MIP's, but maybe this will help.

[89redranger]

PM me with your address and I'll pop a slipper back plate in an envelope for ya. I've got BOXES of them from doing billet slipper swaps. Thank you for the info, too bad I already drilled the spur for the MRC slipper size. Good thing I ordered two of them...

[89redranger]

Just got to looking, my Venom GPV-1 motorcycle uses a bolt-on spur, with a billet hub, which could be adapted to the MRC trans input. It's a 64T, and is the correct Mod 0.5 pitch. The fixed hub for the spur would eliminate any slipper though, guess I can't let the kids drive this one...

I'll tear the bike down tonight and get a good look. If I can find a few spare spurs online, I may make the swap. Don't wanna be dedicated to this, mod my trans, then find out I can't get parts...

[MRCrackhead]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Just got to looking, my Venom GPV-1 motorcycle uses a bolt-on spur, with a billet hub, which could be adapted to the MRC trans input. It's a 64T, and is the correct Mod 0.5 pitch. The fixed hub for the spur would eliminate any slipper though, guess I can't let the kids drive this one...

I'll tear the bike down tonight and get a good look. If I can find a few spare spurs online, I may make the swap. Don't wanna be dedicated to this, mod my trans, then find out I can't get parts...

Very interested in what you find.

Might be nice to have a bolt on spur gear if they're available.

Wouldn't mind trying a 64t spur also.

Looked quite a few times to find something between 62t and 66t, but had no luck.

I'll pm you for that back plate.

Wife says I have to work tomorrow, make money, feed the family.......yada, yada, yada.....so I should get some sleep.....thanks for the offer.

[89redranger]

The Venom gears are available in a ton of tooth counts. No need for the fixed hub though. Ream out the hex hole in the Atomic gear with a body reamer to fit over the MRC slipper. Done deal. Mates up to the 9t on my Xtreme motor perfectly!







Sent from my SCH-I535

[steven a rockcrawler]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

The Venom gears are available in a ton of tooth counts. No need for the fixed hub though. Ream out the hex hole in the Atomic gear with a body reamer to fit over the MRC slipper. Done deal. Mates up to the 9t on my Xtreme motor perfectly!







Sent from my SCH-I535

Wow thts awesome would you mind tellin us were u got those?
Thank you very much and nice build-steve

[89redranger]

The Venom spur is off my Venom GPV-1 motorcycle, which I've already said. Just do a google search for "Venom GPV-1 spur gear" for a bunch of results. I'll look in the manual tomorrow to see what tooth counts Venom offers, and list their corresponding part numbers. I've seen them on google in 61-64t counts, which is enough to make me want to order a handful of all 3 on my next order.

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[89redranger]

A few more pics of the motor/trans installed. LCC stuff should be here in the morning!

BTW, do NOT use the screws that Xtreme gives you with the 380. They are too long, and hit the armature. I took the dremel to the included screws, but original MRC motor screws would probably be your best bet. They are an M2.5, and should probably be around 6-7mm long at the threads.







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[daver18qc]

can you do a running video with that heli motor ?
i'd like to see how fast they are and if the low end is smoother than my RX280..

[89redranger]

As soon as I have it running I'll get a video. It's all in the gearing though. My daughter's rig has the same motor in it, and stock gearing. The bottom end is smooth with stock gearing, but could use gearing down a tad.

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[MRCrackhead]

Excellent ground work sir!

That's a great option for sure and super easy to do according to your write-up.

I'll be ordering a 64t for sure, 63t if they have it just for fun.

Always love having more options.

[89redranger]

Got the front axle together minus shafts...



Ran into a new problem...







Can't find rod ends that clear my knuckle weight. Any ideas for a small body M3 rod end that clears? A 7955tg is in the plans, all the steering has to be well built, no ghetto fab ideas please.

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[89redranger]

More pics of the knuckle weights. Even the LCC tie-rod touches the knuckle weights. I'm not sure what to do here. I can't afford to slide the weight out on the knuckle, and I don't want a bunch of hacked crap.

Axial rod end with Traxxas ball. Won't even slide down.




LCC tie rod, doesn't even have an articulating rod end, and way too long. Just for demonstration. It hits the knuckle weight as well. It doen't get much smaller than this.






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[Nickpequignot]

My guess would be take a file to the weight and clearance it out

[89redranger]

I'm not filing on a brand new set of $53 weights. I see many running the same combo, without problems. I'm doing something wrong, or the weight is wrong. No reason for hacking.

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[Nickpequignot]

I don't blame you on that then haha

[bullas1022]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

More pics of the knuckle weights. Even the LCC tie-rod touches the knuckle weights. I'm not sure what to do here. I can't afford to slide the weight out on the knuckle, and I don't want a bunch of hacked crap.

Axial rod end with Traxxas ball. Won't even slide down.


LCC tie rod, doesn't even have an articulating rod end, and way too long. Just for demonstration. It hits the knuckle weight as well. It doen't get much smaller than this.


Sent from my SCH-I535

Do you know someone who has a good mill?
I f so you could have the re-leaf where the rod end goes milled out with a nice radius