Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[Panther6834]

Just realized I forgot to ask something, and figured it might be best to create a separate post, as opposed to editing my previous one.

As many have noted, the stock wheels aren't all that good...and the tires are better, but not a whole lot better. I'd appreciate suggestions/recommendations for alternate tire choices...but, more importantly, I'm looking for wheels recommendations. If wheels other than 2.2"/3.0" SCT wheels can be used, please, let me know.

Whether I have to stick with standard SCT wheels, or other sizes (such as 2.8") can be used, the more important question is what offset do I need to get? Unfortunately, few manufacturers indicate the actual offset, or 'backspace' (DE Racing is one exception). As such, if those responding can indicate wheels by what said wheels would normally be used on, that's probably a good way to do it. If specific wheels (brand & model) can be mentioned, that would help even more.

Ok...back to "playing in the street".

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[edjo69]

In my beater B-rey I run a HW XR10 Pro G2 ESC with a Exrun 3660 3600kv sensored motor, this truck is 2s only. On my scale project truck at the moment I am running a Mamba X with a Tekin ROC-HD 3100kV sensored motor, this truck is 3s, I have a CC 1415 1Y 2400kV on order but it hasn't arrived in almost a year so until it does its either the Tekin or another HW, once I have it up and running for tuning. As for aluminum axle housings I think the only option left in production is a Vitavon setup. I run the Vanquish, limited in my experience with Vitavon except for the B-rey transmission housing.

[Panther6834]

I'm also somewhat 'limited' in my Vitamin Racing experience, but, what little I have of their products has seen to be extremely high-quality. For the Capra, I've got the machined transmission housing, the brass portal weighs, and the carbon fiber body panels. ALL have shown to be outstanding. If I can locate the Vanquish axle, I wouldn't have any problems ordering the Vitavon axle.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[mass-hole]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

The SSD 3rd member, I was already considering...but I'm also considering one of the aluminum axle offerings. Curious as to which might be better/smarter to go with. As for the ring & pinion, my plan is to already have a higher-quality replacement (have to find out what's available, but I do know I like VP & SSD) ready, for when it's needed. Regarding bearings, I've already been looking into that. My two Capras (Capri?) have Fast Eddie standard bearings, my race vehicles have Avid & Acer ceramic bearings, and my bashers have Avid Revolution Aura bearings. For the BR, are there any specific bearing recommendations (performance oriented, but requiring less maintenance than pure performance bearings)?

Switching over to the diffs, I've been looking at that Exotek cup. From what little I've read (so far), I'm guessing the Mint 400, still being based on the Raptor, already has an open diff. If it isn't, I'm guessing I'd need LOS232051, plus the diff cup, to convert the rear to running a diff. Is there anything else I'd need ? As for the center diff, I'm thinking I'll keep it. However, in regards to all three (front/center/rear), thinking back to how Traxxas does they're, I'm guessing it might be a good idea to replace the diff fluid in all three. Are there recommendations for diff fluid weights?
---------------------------------
Looking to what I've done, today I learned to remove the cage from the chassis (which also required removing the center body piece, because of the LEDs. 26 screws later, I had the internals exposed, and I was finally able to do my first upgrade - replacing the shock oil. To start, I put 30wt up front, and 37.5wt in the rear (I'm open to recommendations, if people know better oil weights to use). In replacing the oil, I also discovered that the rear shock had no preload added at the factory (the front was approx 2/5 down from the top), which I 'corrected'...suspension now feels right.

So that I don't have to go through the same trouble when working on the BR in the future, I'm planning on adding a decent-length servo extension to the lightbar wiring. This way, instead of having to remove everything I did today, I'd only have to remove 12 screws. Since I'll be replacing the Spektrum Rx with a Futaba, I also plan to install a Powerbooster Switch on Ch3, so that I can remotely turn the lightbars on/off. I'm still debating whether to keep the correct ESC & motor, replace both (with Mamba X & HH PP-XL V2), or just replace the motor. As with other upgrades, I'm open to suggestions/recommendations.

I am slowly starting to get a better picture of what other hop-ups to consider, but one that I can't make heads or tails about is the top plate. Is it better to stick with the stock aluminum piece, or go with the carbon fiber part?

Ok, that's enough for today...time to go 'violate' that "shelter in place" order, and see how the upgraded shocks preform.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

As far as I know there is no upgraded R&P. The only “upgrade” would be going to the rock rey gears as they are a higher numerical ratio.

I havent heard of anyone damaging the R&P, only the diff cup and ring screws.

[lonleycreeper]

For tires and wheels! Proline has the Tall Hyrax, and Bfg all terrains, both 4.75" like stock. Wheels are only the wide offset.. proline Protrac, f11 beadlocks?

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

For tires and wheels! Proline has the Tall Hyrax, and Bfg all terrains, both 4.75" like stock. Wheels are only the wide offset.. proline Protrac, f11 beadlocks?

Wouldn't 4.75" be a bit tall, as the stock tires are only 4.4". I'd think 4.75" tires would cause excessive rubbing of the body. Even worse, I don't see how they'd even clear the fenders during suspension compression...the front, possibly, but I'm not seeing (in my mind) the rears clearing. The tires I was primarily considering are the Pro-Line Badlands 2.0 SC, Pro-Line Interco TSL SX Super Swamper SC...or, my top-pick, the Pit Bull Rock Beast XOR.

As for wheels, I was figuring the ProTrac wheels were a fitment-possibility...but, I thought the F11s (as well as the Split Six) had the same offset as standard Slash 4x4 wheels? Speaking of beadlock wheels, I thought they probably wouldn't be a good idea...I mean, wouldn't tires just pull out from the beadlocks with continuous higher speeds? Are there any other wheels that people have found to work really well? Since the wheels that come with the Slash 4x4 ProTrac Suspension Kit also fit the TEN-SCTE 4WD, SCT410, & SC10 4x4, I would think that any wheels designed for these last three vehicle's should also fit the Baja Rey. Besides, the wheels that come on the Baja Rey (LOS43006) are the exact same wheels that come on the Tenacity...so, any wheels known to fit the Tenacity should/would also fit the Baja Rey...right?


~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[lonleycreeper]

The Baja Rey uses a 4.75" tire. The standard Shortcourse truck uses 4.4" tires. As far as wheels, you probably know better than I do. I haven't raced since the late 90's

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

The Baja Rey uses a 4.75" tire. The standard Shortcourse truck uses 4.4" tires. As far as wheels, you probably know better than I do. I haven't raced since the late 90's

The Baja Rey tires are NOT 4.75"...they are 4.4", as I originally stated.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[JDM74]

For everybody's info:

Stock wheels/tires:
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

Stock Traxxas Slash 4x4 tires/wheels:
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

Axial Yeti Methods with Vanquish 225 hubs stock Yeti short course tires:
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

RC4WD M/T Beadlock short course wheels with Proline TSL short course tires:
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

Stock BR wheel tire compared to Stock Traxxas Slash 4x4 tire height:
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr

Hope that helps somebody.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by JDM74

For everybody's info:

Stock wheels/tires:
Stock Traxxas Slash 4x4 tires/wheels:
Stock BR wheel tire compared to Stock Traxxas Slash 4x4 tire height:
Hope that helps somebody.

Thanks, JDM74...that DOES help. In regards to wheels/tires, this is the best info I've seen. It shows me that stock Slash 4x4 wheels shouldn't have any problem. It also shows that the RC4WD M/Ts are a definite "no go"...lol.

Regarding the Slash wheels & tires, how do they look on the rear (can you show a photo)? Also, under compression (front & rear), how well do they clear the body (again, can you show photos)?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[snivilous]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Speaking of upgrades, I've got a few questions I'm hoping other BR owners can help me with. The first upgrades I'm thinking I should actually do are replacing the rear upper links & lower trailing arms, and possibly the front upper & lower A-arms. Starting with the front end, I've seen some plastic (including from RPM, a company I typically avoid), as well as some aluminum, offerings. With my off-road & on-road race vehicles, aluminum A-arms aren't ever options. With my bashing vehicles (2 Rusty 4x4s, and a Sl4sh), aluminum A-arms are considered "bling", and should be avoided. With the BR, I honestly don't know. Would they be recommended? Should they be considered a 'necessity'? Or, should they be avoided? I'd really appreciate some advise, and suggestions, in this area.

My girlfriend and I each have a BR for about two months now, and run 80% of the time on 3s. Between the two of us we probably broke 8-10 A-arms (both uppers and lowers) with varying levels of breakage from ripping off of the mounting pin to blowing the arm in half to snapping the ball joints off. First I did was put MetalConcept aluminum lowers on mine, and I have aluminum uppers and lowers showing up tomorrow for the girlfriends (and just put aluminum spindles on since I broke one the other day). The aluminum arms have a plate that clamps the ball joint with two little screws, and I have ripped those screws out (and then tapped them out to a larger size) once, but otherwise the aluminum has held up great. The aluminum arms while maybe not mandatory, are definitely a big upgrade. My main worry has been the chassis holding up to the abuse since the arms wont break, but so far seems fine. I would definitely recommend aluminum A arms at least since lawn darting the truck or running into rocks quickly overloads the plastic.

We haven't had any issues with the rear suspension. I ripped a trailing arm mount off the chassis so made a replacement aluminum one, but otherwise the links and everything else has been fine (so far).

The biggest other issue we've had, which is mainly just on my girlfriends, is the rear diff blew up fast and the center diff melted down and took the housing with it. Replaced that and lubed and sealed the shit out of everything, but I noticed yesterday the rear driveshaft ouput has a ton of slop, so might upgrade that to aluminum if another plastic housing wears out fast. Besides the shitty stock tires, a couple diff issues on one truck, and the front suspension consistently blowing apart, the trucks have been really reliable on 3s imo.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by snivilous

My girlfriend and I each have a BR for about two months now, and run 80% of the time on 3s. Between the two of us we probably broke 8-10 A-arms (both uppers and lowers) with varying levels of breakage from ripping off of the mounting pin to blowing the arm in half to snapping the ball joints off. First I did was put MetalConcept aluminum lowers on mine, and I have aluminum uppers and lowers showing up tomorrow for the girlfriends (and just put aluminum spindles on since I broke one the other day). The aluminum arms have a plate that clamps the ball joint with two little screws, and I have ripped those screws out (and then tapped them out to a larger size) once, but otherwise the aluminum has held up great. The aluminum arms while maybe not mandatory, are definitely a big upgrade. My main worry has been the chassis holding up to the abuse since the arms wont break, but so far seems fine. I would definitely recommend aluminum A arms at least since lawn darting the truck or running into rocks quickly overloads the plastic.



We haven't had any issues with the rear suspension. I ripped a trailing arm mount off the chassis so made a replacement aluminum one, but otherwise the links and everything else has been fine (so far).



The biggest other issue we've had, which is mainly just on my girlfriends, is the rear diff blew up fast and the center diff melted down and took the housing with it. Replaced that and lubed and sealed the shit out of everything, but I noticed yesterday the rear driveshaft ouput has a ton of slop, so might upgrade that to aluminum if another plastic housing wears out fast. Besides the shitty stock tires, a couple diff issues on one truck, and the front suspension consistently blowing apart, the trucks have been really reliable on 3s imo.

This is exactly the type of useful information that all BR owners can use. It also confirms what I was suspecting in regards to the A-arms. Fantastic, and thank you. Putting my list of spare & replacement parts together.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[snivilous]

I just got tires in last night. These are 2.2x3.0 Pro-Line "M2" and "XTR" tires. Looking forward to how they do. They're a lot harder than the stock tires, and don't have any air breather holes (which is good since the stock tires kept filling up with sand).

https://www.rcplanet.com/tires-wheel...ade-pro119013/
https://www.rcplanet.com/tires-wheel...s-2-pro115817/

[edjo69]

Just added a photo album (public) to my User CP that shows details of my scale Baja Rey project. The photos show the complete chassis, drivetrain & electronics as well as the mods made for 3s and lighting equipment for the lightbars. Cage will be installed tonight and lightbars/scale detailing is Phase 3. The final phase being the body which is going to be a combination of V1/V2 Baja Rey and the Proline Yeti Raptor body. Once that is cut up and sorted out it gets shipped to Mr Custom in Iowa for a completely unique scale team livery paint job. This truck has been a year in the making, mostly because I built it up to this point once before and then decided I want this truck to be 3s so I tore it down and rebuilt it again!!!!!

[smirk-racing]

Hey all, new BR owner here looking for some help... I bought a brand new baja rey (black rhino, since the blue one is out of stock) and on my very first run, I heard all kinds of "ripping" or "grinding" noises on both acceleration and braking.

So clearly one of the diffs (if not multiple) have something wrong with them.

I will tear into everything but thought I'd also ask to see if anyone else has had this problem, and what the fix was.

I have both the SSD 3rd member and front gearbox in the mail, but given this was a brand new truck on the first run, I'm pretty surprised there is an issue. I doubt there is a defect just in my truck (although I suppose that is possible)...

Anything I can do to fix this today (and get a few runs in) while waiting for the mail? I am not even sure either of those parts will fix the problem just yet.

Thanks!

[edjo69]

Originally Posted by smirk-racing

Hey all, new BR owner here looking for some help... I bought a brand new baja rey (black rhino, since the blue one is out of stock) and on my very first run, I heard all kinds of "ripping" or "grinding" noises on both acceleration and braking.

So clearly one of the diffs (if not multiple) have something wrong with them.

I will tear into everything but thought I'd also ask to see if anyone else has had this problem, and what the fix was.

I have both the SSD 3rd member and front gearbox in the mail, but given this was a brand new truck on the first run, I'm pretty surprised there is an issue. I doubt there is a defect just in my truck (although I suppose that is possible)...

Anything I can do to fix this today (and get a few runs in) while waiting for the mail? I am not even sure either of those parts will fix the problem just yet.

Thanks!

Order 3 Exotec diff cups and rebuild all 3, then when you are assembling the output shafts in the front and rear diffs makes sure you have 5x3 shims handy to set the gear lash properly, on the rear I also found it necessary to shim the driveshaft coupler to keep the proper back tension on the pinion output shaft to keep it from walking in and binding/grinding on the ring gear

[smirk-racing]

Thanks! While we're at it, does the rear diff (the ones with the axles, obviously) hold oil? I am thinking of adding 10k in the rear.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by edjo69

Just added a photo album (public) to my User CP that shows details of my scale Baja Rey project. The photos show the complete chassis, drivetrain & electronics as well as the mods made for 3s and lighting equipment for the lightbars.

There's no link to the album you mentioned. Can you fix?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Sniper4370]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

There's no link to the album you mentioned. Can you fix?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...albums4600.htm


Or, click username>view public profile> album is on the right hand side.

[edjo69]

Originally Posted by Sniper4370

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/membe...albums4600.htm


Or, click username>view public profile> album is on the right hand side.

Thank you sniper