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Old 09-07-2011, 12:02 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by ittybitty View Post
Okay fine...

What in the hell is that mess right in the middle of the chassis?
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:10 PM   #62
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Yeah yeah yeah...I spent quite a few hours starring at that mess last night before I finally started working on it. I didn't shorten any wires but got it straightened out a bit to where I can at least put some body panels on it before this weekend. I still need to figure out how I'm gonna mount my batteries for now...
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:28 PM   #63
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Lexan under the front uppers, until you tap the gearbox for a mount. The hubs are sloppy, I was going to drill the stubs out or bigger pins if I built it again.
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:01 PM   #64
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WOW RYAN, I SEE WHAT YA MEANT ABOUT YOUR WIRING , I WOULD'NT TAKE A CLOSE UP EITHER , BUT IT REALLY IS LOOKING GOOD, I WISH I WAS THAT FAR ON MINE. I JUST ORDERED A 4PL A FEW DAYS AGO .
2 7980'S TO GO .
HEY MAN, YA MENTIONED EARLIER YA BOUGHT 12' OF 1/4"HEX, DO YA WANT TO SELL A COUPLE FEET?


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Okay fine...


Last edited by CREEPERBOB; 09-07-2011 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:23 PM   #65
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Check here for the hex bar...its pretty cheap and they'll ship you various sizes of your choosing...

http://www.discountsteel.com/items/6...exagon_Bar.cfm
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:31 PM   #66
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Well I finally got some time to run to the hobby store to pick up some more lexan...only to find out that they were out of the .030 that I have been using on all of my rigs. I ended up buying some .015...yes its very THIN! I probably wouldn't run it on the roof panel simply because it wouldn't last long enough to spend the time painting it. It ended up working out pretty well for the side panels though since they have to conform to the chassis between the lower link mounts and the cab.

All I have left to do before this weekends practice gtg is solder a new male deans plug on for the battery. I'll probably start working on narrowing the HPI wheels tomorrow and get some more foams on the way. I'm considering modifying the wheels to accept the VP hubs like 4XFord's rig, but I'm not entirely sure what the best approach is to making that happen. I considered using a 7/8" forstner bit like the one below...but if you have a better idea let me know!

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Old 09-07-2011, 11:33 PM   #67
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Here's a few pics with the new panels...it's looking a lot better now!



I also decided to try running the battery pack on the front axle...




Sorry for the blurry cell pics...at 1:30am I can't make myself break out the DSLR...
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:09 PM   #68
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Looks pretty good Ryan, but i'm still not building one.
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:44 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by easleycrawler View Post
Looks pretty good Ryan, but i'm still not building one.
Well then theres still hope that you'll buy one already built!

...or I'll build one for you (with your funding of course)!
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:54 PM   #70
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Well then theres still hope that you'll buy one already built!

...or I'll build one for you (with your funding of course)!
Nah, that's not going to happen either. I need to sell my scaler, and get interested in comping again, working all the time i have lost interest.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:49 PM   #71
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Looking good! I can't wait to see it in person I liked it better black tho.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:57 PM   #72
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Can't wait to see it Saturday good work as always
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:01 PM   #73
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The start of a busy week...



First step completed...

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Old 09-12-2011, 05:06 PM   #74
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Working on second step...had to get creative with weights to hold the wheels together while they cure...

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Old 09-12-2011, 05:14 PM   #75
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Looking good, they look pretty narrow.
What foams are you using in your tires?
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:53 PM   #76
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They're cut down to 1.5" wide with Nova Super Foams...the 7.75" tall foams with 2" firm inners and soft outers for use in my 8" rovers
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:05 PM   #77
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Gluing wheels takes a lot more patience than tires. I followed v84x4's process and everything has worked out well. I bought the fiberglass tape thinking I would use it on these, but since you can't cut the blast wheels and leave the seam in the middle of the narrowed wheel it really wouldnt strengthen them at this point since the tape wouldnt be laid over the glued seam.
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:26 PM   #78
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Thats looking really good! I like the blue.

I purchased my wheels from Crawler Innovations. They were professionally machined to take the SLW hubs. I'm not sure how I would do it on a super bully as the minimum hub (225) may make it too wide. I believe blasts put a super bully axle at around 14" TW.
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:32 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4xFord View Post
Thats looking really good! I like the blue.

I purchased my wheels from Crawler Innovations. They were professionally machined to take the SLW hubs. I'm not sure how I would do it on a super bully as the minimum hub (225) may make it too wide. I believe blasts put a super bully axle at around 14" TW.
What TW are ya'll shooting for? Does Eddie do the machined lip method of narrowing on all of the narrowed blasts or is that a special request?
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:41 PM   #80
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What TW are ya'll shooting for? Does Eddie do the machined lip method of narrowing on all of the narrowed blasts or is that a special request?
Yes all of the blast wheels are maching narrowed for a slip joint. The only option is whether you want to run the slw hubs or not.

Track width is really personal preference on supers. But 14" is on the wide side, and I would hate to see you do all that work and end up with a super wide setup that you don't like. I think the only 12mm hexes that would work are going to already add another 1/2", then another 1/4"-1/2" from the hubs. I would just run the 17mm setup, I doubt you will want to get any wider than that.
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