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Old 09-16-2011, 09:39 AM   #101
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Shelby...which hexes are on my axles?
Those look like the Ofna buggy hexes...
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:16 AM   #102
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Those look like the Ofna buggy hexes...
Thanks and thanks I'm looking forward to getting it out this weekend...it's made the "normal" comp locations a lot more fun again!
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Old 09-18-2011, 07:30 PM   #103
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Well I was looking forward to trying out all of the changes I made this week on some familiar rocks, but a broken XVD pin before I completed the first gate on the first course kept that from happening. I cleaned out the XVD and three wheeled a few gates just for fun though. Did anyone ever sort out the weak pins and find a stronger version?
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:57 PM   #104
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Here's what the other front XVD pin looked like...the smashed end is a result of trying to get it out. The side that broke lost both ends of the pin so I'm sure this other side wasn't too far behind it. Both of the rear pins look like new. I've replaced both front pins with #37 drill bits....let's see where the next weak point is!

edit...I forgot the pic earlier


Last edited by ittybitty; 09-19-2011 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:05 PM   #105
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I've been using 2.5mm dowel pins from mcmaster and I haven't had a prob with them yet. I tried some black oxide drill bits in the past and they just weren't hard enough.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:38 PM   #106
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That's what I was looking at when I got home Sunday after breaking one, but after I took it apart I realized that the holes were larger than that. They probably weren't when new, but they are now...I didn't drill anything out to fit the #37 drill bits which measure .104" or 2.64mm according to the package. They were a snug fit and had to be tapped in. I'll beat on them and see if they give up. If they do I might order a new set of XVD's and throw some of the Mcmaster dowel pins in them and keep this set of shafts for spares.

Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:29 AM   #107
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Ya the 2.5mm are a tad smaller diameter than what comes out of there but they seem to be working really well for me. Not sure what others are using.
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:23 PM   #108
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How wide is it with the blasts now?
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:13 AM   #109
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SICK! Rig Ryan! Cant wait to see how ya do with it at the turkey crawl
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:11 AM   #110
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How wide is it with the blasts now?
Right on 14". I've been running it at our GTG's using the gates we set up for 2.2 rigs and haven't had much trouble getting it to squeeze through them so I'm happy with the width. They look A LOT better than the Tech 5's in my opinion.

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SICK! Rig Ryan! Cant wait to see how ya do with it at the turkey crawl
Thanks Colby! I'm really looking forward to running it against some other drivers and seeing where I need to improve. I know it's obvious, but these things are a completely different animal when it comes to tuning/driving them. The rear steer adds a whole other set of variables that affect the suspension loading and unloading.

I definitely should've built one sooner!
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:14 AM   #111
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I've been running it at our GTG's using the gates we set up for 2.2 rigs and haven't had much trouble getting it to squeeze through them so I'm happy with the width.
That is often what I do to practice with my super......setup a 2.2 course, run it with my 2.2......then follow with the super forcing me to focus on the width of the gates and be careful around them.
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:54 AM   #112
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Do you have a pic of how you clocked the tubes?

I have heard of people doing it, but I haven't seen any pics.

Thanks
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:56 AM   #113
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Do you have a pic of how you clocked the tubes?
There are a few ways...use the Eritex clocking jig which allows you to redrill the holes in the tubes. Nabil took a different approach....he drilled new holes in the gearcases.
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:49 AM   #114
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But how do u get a clocked set of tubes to work with the crawl spec 7980 mounts? The motor moves up and forward relative to the tubes so the servo doesnt fit...
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:05 PM   #115
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but how do u get a clocked set of tubes to work with the crawl spec 7980 mounts? The motor moves up and forward relative to the tubes so the servo doesnt fit...

been trying to figure that out myself. I just built a set of servo mounts for my 7980's and they fit perfect with the stock tubes but i'm not sure if the tubes are clocked.
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Old 09-24-2011, 04:56 PM   #116
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Heres a few pics of mine clocked. I am really liking having the front clocked. Although I don't have the single servo mounts. I had to cut the servo mount and I just threw together a quick bracket otherwise it runs into the case.





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Old 09-24-2011, 06:05 PM   #117
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Thanks for those pics! I'm thinking I might move my rear 7980 to the front and run dual 7950s on the rear...I've already got the mounts and servos to do it. Would that be the best way to go or would the 7980s be better in the rear ya think? I've seen some people mention that the rear tends to need more steering power in a lot of situations since it takes the weight of the rig and all a lot of the time. I do like not having them sticking up, but I would like to clock the tubes and get the trans case raised up...what do ya'll think?
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:57 PM   #118
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I prefer the front to have the most power.
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:24 PM   #119
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Just a small update...I added some internal springs to the front and swapped the blue mini-t springs to the rear and put some black MRC springs on the front...seems to have helped some of the issues I was having...
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Old 09-28-2011, 06:48 PM   #120
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Just a small update...I added some internal springs to the front and swapped the blue mini-t springs to the rear and put some black MRC springs on the front...seems to have helped some of the issues I was having...
Nice, I knew you would like the stiffer springs. I would run really heavy oil in those shocks as well, whats in them now?
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