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Old 09-13-2011, 08:22 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by 4xFord View Post
Yes all of the blast wheels are maching narrowed for a slip joint. The only option is whether you want to run the slw hubs or not.

Track width is really personal preference on supers. But 14" is on the wide side, and I would hate to see you do all that work and end up with a super wide setup that you don't like. I think the only 12mm hexes that would work are going to already add another 1/2", then another 1/4"-1/2" from the hubs. I would just run the 17mm setup, I doubt you will want to get any wider than that.
Thanks for the info Shelby. I've looked around for some more info on drilling out the 17mm adapters to a larger pin to see what size pin or type of pin someone might have used, but haven't found anything. This wobble is driving me nuts. After I get the tubes clocked and rear lowers and uppers redone this week the wobble is my next target

Here's where it stands now...



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Old 09-13-2011, 08:55 AM   #82
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I've looked around for some more info on drilling out the 17mm adapters to a larger pin to see what size pin or type of pin someone might have used, but haven't found anything.
I drilled out the holes in the CVD to run the pins that came with my Ofna 17mm hexes and that seemed to work quite well.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:45 AM   #83
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I drilled out the holes in the CVD to run the pins that came with my Ofna 17mm hexes and that seemed to work quite well.
These pins?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:18 AM   #84
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If those are what fit in these hexes, then yes
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Hard-Coated-2
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:33 PM   #85
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The bottom of each of those two links lists the same cars for parts compatability, so I think those pins are a safe bet.
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:46 PM   #86
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Shelby...which hexes are on my axles?
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:34 PM   #87
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I spent some time in the shop tonight to make one rear lower link just to see what shape it needs to be and go from there. This is my first attempt...I'm going to move the bend at the chassis end back towards the axle around 25mm which will provide more breakover...anyone else see any issues? I like the angle the shock has now a lot better than before and the link provides a better transition from chassis to axle...keeping the transmission protected.






I'll get two more made up with the upper bend adjusted and hopefully some uppers to go with them while I'm at it. Getting one made up and having something to base the next ones on will make things move a lot faster.

Last edited by ittybitty; 09-13-2011 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:47 PM   #88
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I got the rear lowers finished up...ended up making two new ones with the bend at the chassis end moved away which really helped out as you can see...





I'm uploading some videos from this past weekend right now and I'll post them up as soon as they finish.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:24 PM   #89
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I'm not sure what brand hexes they are. S links are what Krawlfreak runs, but those to look a little agressive of a bend. They clear everything ok?
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:26 PM   #90
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Yeah they do...I either need to swap to different shocks or figure something out for limiting these...it's got too much travel as is. After I make the rear uppers with the hex bar it'll be finished for a little while...I'll spend some time driving it and then decide what needs to be tweaked from there. It just wasn't even close to being right with the arched links...
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:21 PM   #91
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Yeah they do...I either need to swap to different shocks or figure something out for limiting these...it's got too much travel as is. After I make the rear uppers with the hex bar it'll be finished for a little while...I'll spend some time driving it and then decide what needs to be tweaked from there. It just wasn't even close to being right with the arched links...
Sorry they worked awesome on the berg axles, I thought they would work better on the bully. Those shocks do have a ton of travel for their length. I run 3.5" big bores and limit their travel.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:47 PM   #92
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No worries man! That wasn't a jab at you...it's probably just because I didn't have the tubes clocked yet...and the shocks I'm running just weren't right in that setup.

Not to mention...I'm still figuring this super stuff out...and will be for a long time
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:19 PM   #93
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I would put a spring inside the shock in a droop setup to lower it down. The upper links need to be much closer to level.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:50 PM   #94
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In that pic above I had picked it up by the bottom of the chassis and sat it down so it wasn't sitting at normal ride height. Here's a shot of it if I "drop" it...where it settles...

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Old 09-15-2011, 10:08 PM   #95
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I made another set of lowers and a set of uppers. I left these lowers a little long...I'm right on 18" this time if not a little over with the idea being to see how it works like this and maybe add a little more bend to the chassis end of them for more clearance. I'll be testing this setup out this weekend and will adjust from there. I added some internal springs to the rear shocks today as well.



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Old 09-15-2011, 10:13 PM   #96
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One more shot from above showing the shape of the uppers...



A video from last weekend before all of these changes

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Old 09-15-2011, 11:22 PM   #97
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That looks killer right there, nice work on the links.
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:12 AM   #98
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waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better!
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:19 AM   #99
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waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better!
Thanks guys...what number should I aim for for wheelbase? I left room in the lowers to shorten it up by up to .5"
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:23 AM   #100
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