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Thread: D.U.D. Rear Dig "Write up"

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Old 03-07-2007, 03:53 PM   #61
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Ok... I finally got my D.U.D. set-up done and installed... Just waitin' on the silicone to dry on the radio box so's I can mount the servo and switch...

I made my version modular... I can unplug it and have it disabled as I have Deans on my motor leads so I made the D.U.D. in between some Deans...

I've tested it dry with no wheels on the truck and it works perfectly... I hafta wait til Sunday to hit the rocks and see how good it really does...

I'd also take pics, but, my cam don't have batteries right now.... Mebbe later on down the road I will...;)

I have high hopes for this set-up as being something new on the rocks here that's never been done before... I'm the ground breaker, per se, in my group here...
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Old 03-08-2007, 01:31 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeti69
Hi, Tzi, I tried that one out, but there occurs a problem. If you use the 3rd contact to connect the "plus" line from the motor you end up with a short cut in the back AND the front motor, due to the parrallel connection of the 2 motors. So you have 2 shortcut motors and will end up with a ruined ESC, so it is good enough to disconnect the rear "minus" line.

Markus
I thought this too, but the only way this is possible, is if the front is connected from the esc first, and then to the rear (as in the diagram on page 1). or if you wire each motor equally from the esc in a Y
Either way, your cutting the power from the rear motor... and if you wire the front motor straight off that, then you have just cut power to both.

If you look at the diagram on page one, when you press the switch, your isolating the rear motor, so even if you short it (while switch is pressed)... its not connected to the front
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:18 AM   #63
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Seeing I run an EVX, I'm not concerned about the issues Tzi mentions...

You could use a micro switch like I have... It has poles to be a "normally open" or "normally closed" and would fit a motor to motor parallel set-up... The switch is for forklifts that I got from a friend who used to repair them... I'm sure there's other variants of it out there... I have it in the "normally closed" configuration...

When the servo horn turns and trips the switch, it has another position to be "normally open" which you could run the front motor off of, with a diode to keep the power from flowing back into the rear motor, when the dig is engaged as the middle pole would be energized from the rear motor feed... With nothing off it, it just does nothing in my rig... Mebbe I'll put a light on it or something to indicate dig in use...

I really do need to take some pics of the setup...

Last edited by DaViolentOne; 03-08-2007 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:26 AM   #64
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Quote:
Hi, Tzi, I tried that one out, but there occurs a problem. If you use the 3rd contact to connect the "plus" line from the motor you end up with a short cut in the back AND the front motor, due to the parrallel connection of the 2 motors. So you have 2 shortcut motors and will end up with a ruined ESC, so it is good enough to disconnect the rear "minus" line.

Markus
i disagree, if you hook it up right, the rear motor would have no connection to the esc. also, the only hook between motors would be the + and that would not matter, because there is no complete loop. i will show you.



Actually, instead of going from switch to esc, you would go from the switch to the front motor. Make sure your esc hooks to the front motor first.
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:40 AM   #65
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Here's a drawing of my set-up... And yes.. I know I suck at making drawings of things...;)


And here's a variant for those with SuperChickens or MoPeds that use 1 pair of wires for the motors instead of 2...


As you can see, the switch is useable in 2 configurations... It can be used to power both motors in the "normally closed" position and then just the front in the "normally open" position...

When the switch is pressed, the feed will go from the top lug to the middle lug and then to the front motor on it's own...

EDIT: I noticed just now that I have the diode on the wrong wire... It should be on the one that goes between the motors...

Last edited by DaViolentOne; 03-10-2007 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 03-11-2007, 07:59 PM   #66
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Guess what guys? I did it on my super clod, and did the part where it shorts the rear motor out to turn it into a brake. It works great. If you guys need to know exactly how, i will draw up a diagram.
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:00 PM   #67
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Yea that'd be cool... I found my rear axle free-wheels WAY too easy... If I can make it brake or even aid in slowing, that'd help a lot...
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:01 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedMetal
Guess what guys? I did it on my super clod, and did the part where it shorts the rear motor out to turn it into a brake. It works great. If you guys need to know exactly how, i will draw up a diagram.
Of course post it up, that's why this tread was made.
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:16 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedMetal
Guess what guys? I did it on my super clod, and did the part where it shorts the rear motor out to turn it into a brake. It works great. If you guys need to know exactly how, i will draw up a diagram.
I'm still waiting........
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:24 PM   #70
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Its not perfect, but im sure you can look at it and tell whats what. I used an ohm meter to test the switch. you need to hook the - wire going to the motor (not from the esc) to the pole that is the main pole of the switch. anyway, heres the diagram.

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Old 03-11-2007, 09:04 PM   #71
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What? you guys were so anxious, now you cant say anything?
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:32 AM   #72
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I finally got around to riggin' up a kill switch to the rear motor on my 2.2" Clod last weekend. I used parts I had laying around (a heavy duty toggle switch and a 645MG Hitec). Works awesome! Can't believe I waited so long to do this mod!

Crappy camera phone pics....
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:43 AM   #73
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It's looks like a D.U.D.!
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:02 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezfan
It's looks like a D.U.D.!
Looks like a DUD, but it works like a charm!

The 645MG is overkill for a dig switch, but that's all I had at the house. I set the EPA's on my Agressor to keep from breaking the toggle off.:-P
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:22 PM   #75
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Gotta love a DUD....
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:34 AM   #76
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Thanks Chris

Was sitting here getting ideas for my sons new truck(getting re-worked) and was looking at ideas on how to do it, instead of the brush crap and seeing how others did it without that type of switch.. Nice idea. Didn't think of just a basic toggle. already have plenty of those sitting around.
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Old 03-20-2007, 11:41 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSR
I finally got around to riggin' up a kill switch to the rear motor on my 2.2" Clod last weekend. I used parts I had laying around (a heavy duty toggle switch and a 645MG Hitec). Works awesome! Can't believe I waited so long to do this mod!

Crappy camera phone pics....
Works great like that on that chassis. Wouldn't do so good on a Stick or Torsion chassis.
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Old 03-20-2007, 12:13 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run2jeepn
Wouldn't do so good on a Stick or Torsion chassis.
I now have one installed on my sons torsion now.. works great
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Old 03-20-2007, 12:34 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run2jeepn
Works great like that on that chassis. Wouldn't do so good on a Stick or Torsion chassis.
My Stick 2.2 (the original functioning D.U.D.) used a toggle switch with the toggle inside a hole in the servo horn.
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Old 03-20-2007, 01:54 PM   #80
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I'm glad to see this work! About a year ago when I had my clod crawler I was toying with this same concept. I sold the crawler before trying anything out. I still used the same concept on my tank! I used auto relays though to get the tracks to coordinate. Same basic principle though!

Full skid steering from two servos







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