RCCrawler Forums

run2jeepn · 01-18-2007, 08:57 PM

Man thats alot of crap to put on a 2.2....But would be cool.

TwistedCreations · 01-18-2007, 09:12 PM

it would just be another switch... have your servo horn stright up... then throw your TQ3 switch one way to shut off the front and the other way for the rear

locktite · 01-18-2007, 10:02 PM

Ordered up the parts I need so I can try this on my STICK. when it gets here..Cant wait

run2jeepn · 01-30-2007, 09:29 PM

As anyone tried it with front and rear yet?

yeti69 · 02-14-2007, 07:04 AM

That's a nice how-to. I did it to my Bronclod as well,
just used a micro servo to save some space. Works good:

It's a real cool and cheap mod.

Trikster · 02-14-2007, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeti69

That's a nice how-to. I did it to my Bronclod as well,
just used a micro servo to save some space. Works good:

It's a real cool and cheap mod.

Got any pictures or a write up on your rig? Looks very interesting from this picture.

yeti69 · 02-15-2007, 10:45 AM

Well, you can look here for a write up of my build:
Bronclod, 2nd try

and some more detailed description of the frame here, its bronclods evil big brother:
Monsterclod 1:6 with Nylint body
and here are some more recent pictures:
With my new Ford Ford F 100 Body:

i just removed the rear steering and added the rear dig:

rear lock out

rear setup

the original Bronco Bodied pic

Rear dig close-up's:

switch disengaged, rear motor ON

switch engaged, rear motor OFF

btw, the next organ donor is already wating for treatment:

this time I think I 'll build a "pimp cane" sort of crawler...

Team Aluminum · 02-16-2007, 06:20 PM

I found a switch at radio shack hear is the link to this item http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2049719&cp Just got done setting up my 2.2 With dig works good

run2jeepn · 02-22-2007, 01:34 PM

Here is another Short Vid why the DUD is so great. Ever try to drop off a ledge and have a sharp turn at the bottom. Well you can do both with the DUD set up.

DaViolentOne · 02-22-2007, 02:03 PM

run2... Thanks for that vid... That puts more in favour for doin' D.U.D over 4WS in my mind... Less to deal with and works like a charm...

run2jeepn · 02-22-2007, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaViolentOne

run2... Thanks for that vid... That puts more in favour for doin' D.U.D over 4WS in my mind... Less to deal with and works like a charm...

Well this is more for 2.2's. For a Super I'd run dual ESC so you can have Digs front and rear with 4WS.

DaViolentOne · 02-22-2007, 02:32 PM

I'm running a rather short chassis... The Gecko II is only 13 1/2" WB and I use rather small tires as well... The D.U.D. would do me rather well for the time being... I'm not really interested in dual ESC and 4WS yet... Maybe on a longer chassis or if I put bigger wheels on it... And the D.U.D. would be more cost effective at this time in my crawlers life... I just need a 3ch radio now...

Trikster · 02-22-2007, 02:58 PM

Looks good man! Makes me want to convert my Super to a 2.2.

Tzi · 02-23-2007, 01:41 AM

I thought of this mid last year, but havent done it yet because i only have 3 chanels, and already have 4ws on my super.
With all the knowlege on this board i am very suprised that nobody has suggested an idea to lock the motor by its own strength.
... when you turn a motor, it generates electricity.

Try this...Grab your clod... remove the battery and spin one of the axles quickly..... the other one will move, running on the electricity generated by the axle in your hand.
If you grab a spare wire (with aligator ends is easiest), and short across the motor (without battery in)... you will notice it is a lot harder to turn.
So, by wiring the dig switch to remove the power and short the motor, you effectivly gain a free brake.

If you use a microswitch such as this one, you will notice there are 3 poles on the switch.

Wire up a dig as described in this thread, and make sure it works like it should.
Then, add a wire to the positive on your motor, then solder that to the spare pole on the switch.

now, when you trip the switch, not only does it disconnect the power from the esc... it now shorts across the + and - on the motor, providing resistance for your dig.
instant brake

roktoy · 02-23-2007, 06:56 AM

Nice observation and an interesting idea.

Wouldn't you have to make sure you break the ESC connection before you make the motor short connection?

Jay

run2jeepn · 02-23-2007, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaViolentOne

I'm running a rather short chassis... The Gecko II is only 13 1/2" WB and I use rather small tires as well... The D.U.D. would do me rather well for the time being... I'm not really interested in dual ESC and 4WS yet... Maybe on a longer chassis or if I put bigger wheels on it... And the D.U.D. would be more cost effective at this time in my crawlers life... I just need a 3ch radio now...

Mine already locks up pretty good. The last 3 times out. I never had the rear even roll. And I use my DUD set up on almost everything. Hills, Dropoffs, and turnning. More then anything I use it the most for hill climbs. Who would have ever thought that killing the rear motor and locking it up would help during hill climbs.

Tzi · 02-23-2007, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roktoy

Nice observation and an interesting idea.

Wouldn't you have to make sure you break the ESC connection before you make the motor short connection?

Jay

I trust a good switch would do that anyway... something like a microswitch

yeti69 · 02-24-2007, 02:26 AM

Yes, Tzi, you are absolute right, but...
The only reason not to do it is that I don't trust the microswitch, i know that technically it disconnects the 1 contact and then connects the other but I don't want to bust my esc...
'cos the switch is very inexeppensive, the ESC not.
And, as run2... explained, it already works good without the shortcutted motor

DaViolentOne · 02-24-2007, 09:54 AM

Far as I know, all you're doing with the switch is disconnecting the feed from the ESC... That won't do anything bad.. It'll send full power to the front motor but I can't see if frying anything out as long as yer not tryin' to dig while yer movin'...

yeti69 · 03-05-2007, 01:45 PM

Hi, Tzi, I tried that one out, but there occurs a problem. If you use the 3rd contact to connect the "plus" line from the motor you end up with a short cut in the back AND the front motor, due to the parrallel connection of the 2 motors. So you have 2 shortcut motors and will end up with a ruined ESC, so it is good enough to disconnect the rear "minus" line.

Markus

02-14-2007, 07:04 AM	#45
yeti69 Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Germany Posts: 52	Thanks for the write up That's a nice how-to. I did it to my Bronclod as well, just used a micro servo to save some space. Works good: It's a real cool and cheap mod.

02-15-2007, 10:45 AM	#47
yeti69 Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Germany Posts: 52	My Bronclod build Well, you can look here for a write up of my build: Bronclod, 2nd try and some more detailed description of the frame here, its bronclods evil big brother: Monsterclod 1:6 with Nylint body and here are some more recent pictures: With my new Ford Ford F 100 Body: i just removed the rear steering and added the rear dig: rear lock out rear setup the original Bronco Bodied pic Rear dig close-up's: switch disengaged, rear motor ON switch engaged, rear motor OFF btw, the next organ donor is already wating for treatment: this time I think I 'll build a "pimp cane" sort of crawler... Last edited by yeti69; 02-15-2007 at 11:01 AM.

03-05-2007, 01:45 PM	#60
yeti69 Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Germany Posts: 52	shortcut won't work Hi, Tzi, I tried that one out, but there occurs a problem. If you use the 3rd contact to connect the "plus" line from the motor you end up with a short cut in the back AND the front motor, due to the parrallel connection of the 2 motors. So you have 2 shortcut motors and will end up with a ruined ESC, so it is good enough to disconnect the rear "minus" line. Markus

01-18-2007, 08:57 PM	#41
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Man thats alot of crap to put on a 2.2....But would be cool.

01-18-2007, 09:12 PM	#42
TwistedCreations Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo! Posts: 8,626	it would just be another switch... have your servo horn stright up... then throw your TQ3 switch one way to shut off the front and the other way for the rear

01-18-2007, 10:02 PM	#43
locktite Newbie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: new jersey Posts: 46	Ordered up the parts I need so I can try this on my STICK. when it gets here..Cant wait

01-30-2007, 09:29 PM	#44
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	As anyone tried it with front and rear yet?

02-16-2007, 06:20 PM	#48
Team Aluminum Newbie Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: blue springs Posts: 25	I found a switch at radio shack hear is the link to this item http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2049719&cp Just got done setting up my 2.2 With dig works good

02-22-2007, 01:34 PM	#49
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Here is another Short Vid why the DUD is so great. Ever try to drop off a ledge and have a sharp turn at the bottom. Well you can do both with the DUD set up.

02-22-2007, 02:03 PM	#50
DaViolentOne Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 870	run2... Thanks for that vid... That puts more in favour for doin' D.U.D over 4WS in my mind... Less to deal with and works like a charm...

02-22-2007, 02:32 PM	#52
DaViolentOne Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 870	I'm running a rather short chassis... The Gecko II is only 13 1/2" WB and I use rather small tires as well... The D.U.D. would do me rather well for the time being... I'm not really interested in dual ESC and 4WS yet... Maybe on a longer chassis or if I put bigger wheels on it... And the D.U.D. would be more cost effective at this time in my crawlers life... I just need a 3ch radio now...

02-22-2007, 02:58 PM	#53
Trikster RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Roseville Posts: 1,469	Looks good man! Makes me want to convert my Super to a 2.2.

02-23-2007, 01:41 AM	#54
Tzi Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Australia Posts: 495	I thought of this mid last year, but havent done it yet because i only have 3 chanels, and already have 4ws on my super. With all the knowlege on this board i am very suprised that nobody has suggested an idea to lock the motor by its own strength. ... when you turn a motor, it generates electricity. Try this...Grab your clod... remove the battery and spin one of the axles quickly..... the other one will move, running on the electricity generated by the axle in your hand. If you grab a spare wire (with aligator ends is easiest), and short across the motor (without battery in)... you will notice it is a lot harder to turn. So, by wiring the dig switch to remove the power and short the motor, you effectivly gain a free brake. If you use a microswitch such as this one, you will notice there are 3 poles on the switch. Wire up a dig as described in this thread, and make sure it works like it should. Then, add a wire to the positive on your motor, then solder that to the spare pole on the switch. now, when you trip the switch, not only does it disconnect the power from the esc... it now shorts across the + and - on the motor, providing resistance for your dig. instant brake

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02-23-2007, 06:56 AM	#55
roktoy Dirt Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stumblin' thru the parking lot of an invisible 7-Eleven Posts: 1,053	Nice observation and an interesting idea. Wouldn't you have to make sure you break the ESC connection before you make the motor short connection? Jay

02-24-2007, 02:26 AM	#58
yeti69 Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Germany Posts: 52	Yes, Tzi, you are absolute right, but... The only reason not to do it is that I don't trust the microswitch, i know that technically it disconnects the 1 contact and then connects the other but I don't want to bust my esc... 'cos the switch is very inexeppensive, the ESC not. And, as run2... explained, it already works good without the shortcutted motor

02-24-2007, 09:54 AM	#59
DaViolentOne Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 870	Far as I know, all you're doing with the switch is disconnecting the feed from the ESC... That won't do anything bad.. It'll send full power to the front motor but I can't see if frying anything out as long as yer not tryin' to dig while yer movin'...

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