RCCrawler Forums

dezfan · 03-20-2007, 02:16 PM

My original D.U.D. on the Grunt was also a toggle switch.

Unfortunately the radio I used at the time didn't have EPA on it and while the switch worked perfectly at disabling the rear motor, the radio's lack of adjustment wouldn't allow the servo to operate the switch correctly.

That's when Unholy suggested the momentary switch which didn't require the use of EPA.

In reality, just about any switch would work w/ a radio w/ EPAs .

TwistedMetal · 04-09-2007, 11:45 PM

Has anyone else tried it the same way i did? Mine is still working great! Just interested to find out if anyone else is using my idea.

run2jeepn · 04-10-2007, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwistedMetal

Has anyone else tried it the same way i did? Mine is still working great! Just interested to find out if anyone else is using my idea.

I thought about it....I just don't trust a $3 switch to protect my $150 ESC...I don't think I will. Last comp I used my dig on the rocks to turn. It worked perfect even with my huge 2.2 Jordans. So right now I don't see a reason to switch. When climbing ledges. I wouldn't want it to lock up 100% anyway. I want the front end to be able to drag the rear up.

TwistedMetal · 04-10-2007, 07:59 AM

Ok. I am using 40 series moabs, so it works great for me. i can understand not doing it with 2.2 sized tires, as they are smaller.

DaViolentOne · 04-10-2007, 09:56 AM

There's a guy in my group here that used a toggle for a DUD style... And as mentioned above, the toggle travel was far less than the servo travel... So ut rand the link wire thru the toggle head and put some nitro springs and collars on it to allow the servo to go thru full swing but still hit the toggle right... Anyone here that's run nitro before should be familiar with the idea.. Kinda like on a brake arm... Collar - spring - caliper link - spring - collar...

On another note, I've tried my version of the DUD and, well, I need to do some kinda wheel locking dealio with it... Was thinking of moving the whole setup down to a rear servo mount then putting a piece of say, 3/32 piano wire on it so it goes thru a rim when the dig is in effect to lock out the rear end... I've used it as it once successfully, but, I also had a rear wheel against a rock... When I used it at that instance, it worked how I expected it to... The front end just dragged itslef around to where I wanted to be at...

I've tried to use it in a few other palces and it's not gonna do what I thought it would... I THOUGHT I might be able to use it to pull my Clod over them places when ya just don't have quite enuff length and the rear wheels will flip ya over backwards... Just kill the rear and let the front pull it up... Welp.. 1 Mabuchi don't have enuff guts to do that... It'll pull the truck all over flat ground, but not much else... I can't wait to get some lathes in there...

TwistedMetal · 04-11-2007, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaViolentOne

On another note, I've tried my version of the DUD and, well, I need to do some kinda wheel locking dealio with it...

Try my idea man, it works great. I havent had a problem with it yet.

DaViolentOne · 04-12-2007, 08:45 AM

I took a look at it, but I can't quite get the idea of how ya did it... Can't quite wrap my head around how ya did it and such... I'm not one for looking at a wiring diagram and knowing what's going on... Can probly tell that from my diagram of my wiring for my current setup...;)

TwistedMetal · 04-12-2007, 05:10 PM

If you would like i can make up a prewired switch for ya with deans on it, so it plugs in, and you can take it out.

DaViolentOne · 04-13-2007, 10:08 AM

Would that be a normally closed kinda switch? That's what I have on my unit now... But sure... Make one up for me and PM me yer info so's I can paypal ya somethin' for your time and shipping...

run2jeepn · 04-22-2007, 05:19 AM

Just saw that I had the diagram wrong. Fixed and is right now. Oooops

Also I'd like to add I now have the same Switch I use and Dezfan uses on for sale now. I have 20 in stock. This are heavy duty swicthes. These are made to last for a long time. Other little switches may not be up to handle the power that goes through them. This can.

STANG KILLA SS · 09-19-2007, 10:05 AM

i have a question. when the dig is ingages, ie the circuit is is broken, does the rear motor free wheel? ie obvioiusly a drag brake would not work, but would the motor free wheel more so than if it had both leads connected normally and the throttle was at nuetral?
with out a powered up magnetic feild would it spin free-er (maybe not freely, but free-er)

has anyone tryed this on a super? i reallize the big tires would probly just roll, but ill bet it could tighten the turning radius some. if for any other reason that just the rear tires not pushing the front tires forward. ie like a car going into a corner to fast with a push. the front tires would be pulling in the turned direction and not be pushed forward (parrallel with chassis rails) by the rear wheels

toy4crawlin · 09-19-2007, 11:15 AM

From my reading up

DIG is for Shaft Driven crawlers

When the Rear DIG is Engaged is locks the Rear but continues to allow the front to rotate.
hence the name DIG.

this holds the rear in place so you can turn your front tires and forward throttle to pull the front in a tighter turn.

Unholy · 09-19-2007, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toy4crawlin

From my reading up

DIG is for Shaft Driven crawlers

When the Rear DIG is Engaged is locks the Rear but continues to allow the front to rotate.
hence the name DIG.

Then maybe you should read some more.

Even this thread for instance.

Stang... This style dig on a super wouldn't work too well. the tire height gives it too much leverage and it would just roll. We tightened up the pinion lash on the rear axle to make it work well on 2.2 rigs, but a super wouldn't really work.

There is talk in this thread about basically grounding the motor leads after the switch disengages the ESC from the motor to increase breaking. To me it was just asking to short out your ESC.

dezfan · 09-19-2007, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toy4crawlin

From my reading up

DIG is for Shaft Driven crawlers

When the Rear DIG is Engaged is locks the Rear but continues to allow the front to rotate.
hence the name DIG.

Clod were "DIG"ing way before the shaftys.:-P

Stang, the rear motor does "freewheel" but, adding a set of heavy springs to the motor, some thick lube in the gear box and it works rather well.

toy4crawlin · 09-19-2007, 11:53 AM

[quote=Unholy;853267]Then maybe you should read some more.

Even this thread for instance.

oh something weird happend, I was replying to a dig question and I ended up here somehow.

huh.

Well I guess I can read up on it some more

LincolnBlack · 09-20-2007, 03:44 AM

Setting up a DUD switch that adds drag to the rear motor is simple:

I use a microswitch to do the job rated at 10A@240v. This switch has three connections: Common (C), Normally Closed (NC) and Normally Open (NO).

Pos from the ESC goes to NC
Neg from ESC goes to NO
Neg from motor also goes to NO
Pos from motor goes to C

This way when the switch is activated (switched from NC to NO) the power stops at the NC terminal and the motor wires get conneted, but isolated from the ESC.

A better way of course would be to have a two pole switch, or two mircoswitches together.

Dirty Jeepster · 09-20-2007, 09:21 AM

Tried this on a friends rig with a old esc, worked well until the esc decided to smoke screen my course.

Good thing he didn't have a rooster... Just from experience i wouldn't do this to my clod, as someone above already stated this mod is a gamble and asking for something to short. Just my .02

run2jeepn · 09-20-2007, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Jeepster

Tried this on a friends rig with a old esc, worked well until the esc decided to smoke screen my course.

Good thing he didn't have a rooster... Just from experience i wouldn't do this to my clod, as someone above already stated this mod is a gamble and asking for something to short. Just my .02

Which way did you hook it up? I've been running this for a while on 2 or three different Rigs and two different ESC's. Even ran it on a Mamba Max. Never had an issue.

dezfan · 09-21-2007, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Jeepster

Tried this on a friends rig with a old esc, worked well until the esc decided to smoke screen my course.

Good thing he didn't have a rooster... Just from experience i wouldn't do this to my clod, as someone above already stated this mod is a gamble and asking for something to short. Just my .02

Funny, been running this set up longer than anyone w/ a Moped ESC, a Novak Super Rooster, and a Mamba Max.

Still using the same switch for a year now.

Sounds to me like it was improperly installed.

Dirty Jeepster · 09-21-2007, 03:41 PM

chances are good it was, the clod it was on had some really old electronics, id possibly be willing to set this up on my stick once i get a refrigerator switch!

04-22-2007, 05:19 AM	#90
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Just saw that I had the diagram wrong. Fixed and is right now. Oooops Also I'd like to add I now have the same Switch I use and Dezfan uses on for sale now. I have 20 in stock. This are heavy duty swicthes. These are made to last for a long time. Other little switches may not be up to handle the power that goes through them. This can. Last edited by run2jeepn; 04-22-2007 at 05:22 AM.

09-19-2007, 10:05 AM	#91
STANG KILLA SS ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX Posts: 10,056	i have a question. when the dig is ingages, ie the circuit is is broken, does the rear motor free wheel? ie obvioiusly a drag brake would not work, but would the motor free wheel more so than if it had both leads connected normally and the throttle was at nuetral? with out a powered up magnetic feild would it spin free-er (maybe not freely, but free-er) has anyone tryed this on a super? i reallize the big tires would probly just roll, but ill bet it could tighten the turning radius some. if for any other reason that just the rear tires not pushing the front tires forward. ie like a car going into a corner to fast with a push. the front tires would be pulling in the turned direction and not be pushed forward (parrallel with chassis rails) by the rear wheels Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 09-19-2007 at 10:11 AM.

03-20-2007, 02:16 PM	#81
dezfan I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Happiness is a warm AK. Posts: 12,563	My original D.U.D. on the Grunt was also a toggle switch. Unfortunately the radio I used at the time didn't have EPA on it and while the switch worked perfectly at disabling the rear motor, the radio's lack of adjustment wouldn't allow the servo to operate the switch correctly. That's when Unholy suggested the momentary switch which didn't require the use of EPA. In reality, just about any switch would work w/ a radio w/ EPAs .

04-09-2007, 11:45 PM	#82
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	Has anyone else tried it the same way i did? Mine is still working great! Just interested to find out if anyone else is using my idea.

04-10-2007, 07:59 AM	#84
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	Ok. I am using 40 series moabs, so it works great for me. i can understand not doing it with 2.2 sized tires, as they are smaller.

04-10-2007, 09:56 AM	#85
DaViolentOne Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 870	There's a guy in my group here that used a toggle for a DUD style... And as mentioned above, the toggle travel was far less than the servo travel... So ut rand the link wire thru the toggle head and put some nitro springs and collars on it to allow the servo to go thru full swing but still hit the toggle right... Anyone here that's run nitro before should be familiar with the idea.. Kinda like on a brake arm... Collar - spring - caliper link - spring - collar... On another note, I've tried my version of the DUD and, well, I need to do some kinda wheel locking dealio with it... Was thinking of moving the whole setup down to a rear servo mount then putting a piece of say, 3/32 piano wire on it so it goes thru a rim when the dig is in effect to lock out the rear end... I've used it as it once successfully, but, I also had a rear wheel against a rock... When I used it at that instance, it worked how I expected it to... The front end just dragged itslef around to where I wanted to be at... I've tried to use it in a few other palces and it's not gonna do what I thought it would... I THOUGHT I might be able to use it to pull my Clod over them places when ya just don't have quite enuff length and the rear wheels will flip ya over backwards... Just kill the rear and let the front pull it up... Welp.. 1 Mabuchi don't have enuff guts to do that... It'll pull the truck all over flat ground, but not much else... I can't wait to get some lathes in there...

04-12-2007, 08:45 AM	#87
DaViolentOne Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 870	I took a look at it, but I can't quite get the idea of how ya did it... Can't quite wrap my head around how ya did it and such... I'm not one for looking at a wiring diagram and knowing what's going on... Can probly tell that from my diagram of my wiring for my current setup...;)

04-12-2007, 05:10 PM	#88
TwistedMetal Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Monrovia Posts: 178	If you would like i can make up a prewired switch for ya with deans on it, so it plugs in, and you can take it out.

04-13-2007, 10:08 AM	#89
DaViolentOne Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Surrey, BC, Canada Posts: 870	Would that be a normally closed kinda switch? That's what I have on my unit now... But sure... Make one up for me and PM me yer info so's I can paypal ya somethin' for your time and shipping...

09-19-2007, 11:15 AM	#92
toy4crawlin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Campbell, CA 4 hrs 2Rubicon ! Posts: 2,044	From my reading up DIG is for Shaft Driven crawlers When the Rear DIG is Engaged is locks the Rear but continues to allow the front to rotate. hence the name DIG. this holds the rear in place so you can turn your front tires and forward throttle to pull the front in a tighter turn.

09-19-2007, 11:53 AM	#95
toy4crawlin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Campbell, CA 4 hrs 2Rubicon ! Posts: 2,044	[quote=Unholy;853267]Then maybe you should read some more. Even this thread for instance. oh something weird happend, I was replying to a dig question and I ended up here somehow. huh. Well I guess I can read up on it some more

09-20-2007, 03:44 AM	#96
LincolnBlack Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia Posts: 277	Setting up a DUD switch that adds drag to the rear motor is simple: I use a microswitch to do the job rated at 10A@240v. This switch has three connections: Common (C), Normally Closed (NC) and Normally Open (NO). Pos from the ESC goes to NC Neg from ESC goes to NO Neg from motor also goes to NO Pos from motor goes to C This way when the switch is activated (switched from NC to NO) the power stops at the NC terminal and the motor wires get conneted, but isolated from the ESC. A better way of course would be to have a two pole switch, or two mircoswitches together.

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09-20-2007, 09:21 AM	#97
Dirty Jeepster Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: CT Posts: 77	Tried this on a friends rig with a old esc, worked well until the esc decided to smoke screen my course. Good thing he didn't have a rooster... Just from experience i wouldn't do this to my clod, as someone above already stated this mod is a gamble and asking for something to short. Just my .02

09-21-2007, 03:41 PM	#100
Dirty Jeepster Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: CT Posts: 77	chances are good it was, the clod it was on had some really old electronics, id possibly be willing to set this up on my stick once i get a refrigerator switch!

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