EeePee's CR-01

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by 860Crawler

So no more crunchy sandy transmission?

Eh, seems fine.

The 18 tooth pinion gear I put in made a pretty drastic change, went from 40:1 to 45:1.

Put a Crawler Store BM9 brushless motor in it, I think that it's 1100 kV. Kinda slow for a trail truck, but creeps and crawls good at scale speed.

Made changes in the front suspension that made a big difference.

1. The zip tie the cantilever rockers together trick.
   
2. I moved the whole big cantilever rocker thing back a hole.
   
3. Moved the linkage to the outer hole on the rocker arm.
   
4. I moved the upper links at the chassis way down where they should be.
   
5. On the lower links at the chassis I used small spacers to better clear the chassis.
   
6. Moved the shock to a different hole on the rocker.

Here. Pictures.











So now the front end is freaking sweet. Still got the cants, still got the sway bar. Medium spring and soft swaybar. It's so smooth up and down, and flexes so smooth too, you can feel the the rising rate spring and shock action. The linkage move made the shock piston move less making the oil inside seem thinner than before, but it is on the dot! I'm actually bragging about how sweet it is! It's probably perfect!

I am never changing the front end on this thing.

For now.

[infanterene]

+1 if you make a setup sheet with all the changes you have made that would be great.

[cartronicshn]

Looks gay, did you ever get to use the cr-01 fj body? mine is still sitting here collecting dust, but i have a chassis and some tlt axles for it waiting for me to get started on this next project, anyways thanks for the tips, i can now go do them to mine

[drsmith751]

Originally Posted by infanterene

+1 if you make a setup sheet with all the changes you have made that would be great.

ditto!!

[EeePee]

I can do that for ya guys.

Not for cartronicshn Carlos though.

I've not touched the Tamiya FJ body either, still collecting dust, but that's fine by me. One day...

I'll post up again soon with everything I've done in detail.

[cartronicshn]

Originally Posted by EeePee

I can do that for ya guys.

Not for cartronicshn Carlos though.

I've not touched the Tamiya FJ body either, still collecting dust, but that's fine by me. One day...

I'll post up again soon with everything I've done in detail.

[Jeephead]

What??

[EeePee]

Pretty sure this is it.

1. Proline Bushwacker body (little longer than stock)
2. Axial steel yokes and Traxxas Stampede driveshafts
3. 18 tooth Robinson metric pinion
4. Barrel springs - Front medium, rear soft
5. Front soft sway bar, rear stiffer sway bar
6. Losi 40 weight oil
7. Zip tied rocker arms together
8. Moved linkages to outer hole on rocker arm
9. Front upper spring perch moved back one hole
10. Front lower links moved in for shorter wheelbase, and spacer to clear the chassis seen HERE
11. Front shocks and upper links moved to HERE
12. Rear shocks moved on rocker arm to HERE
13. Rear upper links moved to top of link mount plate
    
    

[infanterene]

Thanks! Im starting my build tonight.

[infanterene]

Well I actually started my build this morning. I finished everything but the body. I used your setup except I swapped the front and rear stock springs and it drives great.

I went with the waterproof electronics from my sons slash but with an integy 65 turn. So far the only thing I dont like is the huge turning radius.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by infanterene

I used your setup except I swapped the front and rear stock springs and it drives great.

I started out that way also. Went for a more rear stiff set up. It probably crawls better that way, but for trail truck'n around in the woods I think the front stiffer works better. Better balanced, and more evenly sprung with a big battery in front.

And yeah, the turning radius...

[cyberdog]

Only thing i have in my pocket when i go crawling/trailing is a extra batterypack and a pair of driveshafts.

[860Crawler]

haha, I always bring the little Tamiya wrench because my axle nuts always seem to work loose.

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by 860Crawler

I always bring the little Tamiya wrench

Yep, me too. Pretty much it.

I don't stray too far away from the car.

[krapulax]

Originally Posted by Jingles

One small question.

When going for a day of crawling, what spares would you take with you? Basically I'm asking what's going to be the first thing to break?

Jingles.

If you put the thing together correctly, and the parts don't have fabrication defects (mine did) you won't be breaking anything that easily. As said before, driveshafts twist badly but don't break so you can keep going.
not sure how the wheelnuts or themselves loose, as I did not experience it but there you go. The only thing I carry is some double sided tape for the flyonecam I use to shoot from the top of the truck. Crawling makes for some interesting angle changes and motion sickness inducing footage, hehehehe!

[m&mkrawler]

Hey guys....I'm new to the scaler part of crawlin and am in need of HELP... Are there any pics of the shock assembly...? I want to mount them direct...(axle to chassis)
are there any pics or tips on how to go about it...?
THANKS

[krapulax]

Originally Posted by Jingles

Not to get off topic but... More detail please.

Jingles.

One of my universals had a joint (the ball with four pins) with a shorter pin on one side. That meant the driveshaft would pop out easily under effort. That and the fact that I managed to twist my other driveshaft are the reasons I switched to tamiya's steel driveshafts which would probably outlast the rest of the truck easily.

I still don't think it is nice of Tamiya to put such revolting driveshafts in a crawler where the driveshaft is probably one of the most important bits and not only that but because of the very nature of a crawler it is very likely that huge stress is going to be placed on guess what? The driveshaft!

And I don't buy the "keep the cost down" idea either. Decent driveshafts are easy and cheap to make even if plastic as Traxxas has demonstrated. I actually used one of these to replace my ever popping out driveshaft first (tamiya did not have the steelies out back then), but it had to be modified and the end result is not optimal because of the long joints, so the shaft itself has to angle more having less length between joints.

That's where the steel shafts come in and thankfully, Tamiya has realised they need to be CVD type. I just didn't build them as it is recommended. Instead of their pin locked with a grub for the inner sliding shaft, I used a rollpin from a Yokomo kit I had in the spares box. That way the pin is inserted and can be withdrawn without taking the driveshaft apart or out of the truck. I think that's a small maintenance advantage if you don't want to strip both ends of the driveshaft. The rollpin goes in with a bit of force and can be pushed out with a suitable hex driver and a bit more force.

[ElOriginal]

What springs are you using in the rear (barrel, barrel short, stock)? THX

[EeePee]

Sorry Jingles, missed your post. I can see it though.

ElOriginal, the soft barrel springs in back. And they are soft!

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by Jingles

although I'll probably do Bok's ziptie mod.

That's the most important one if you're going to use the cantilevers.