RCCrawler Forums

twisted · 10-18-2008, 10:43 PM

so the barrel springs are like a progressive spring ?

EeePee · 10-18-2008, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twisted

so the barrel springs are like a progressive spring ?

Exactly right.

cman_1500w · 10-22-2008, 03:57 PM

EeePee, have you experienced any problems with the tranny taking in water? Every time I run mine in water the bearings rust up.

Have you taken any preventative measures to waterproof it? Seems to me the water enters in through the motor past that cardboard piece. I'm at the point I want to swap in a pede tranny now..

EeePee · 10-22-2008, 07:05 PM

Not really, and not really!

I guess I could assume mine has had water inside it, but I don't seem to be having any problems. I drive the truck for a little while after a water dunk, but I tend to put the thing away still dripping wet. And then the next time I run it the whole thing sounds crunchy for a bit. The wheels are all heavy on the bottom from the old water still inside, and the drivetrain sounds like shit. I use a lightweight oil drop on the bearings pretty often, well on the ones I can see and get to, but I haven't done anything otherwise.

I still have that cardboard piece in there, but I always thought it was something other than cardboard, and I don't want to bend one to find out. It feels ceramic actually.

860Crawler · 10-23-2008, 08:44 AM

The barrell spring set ups are interesting. Should have gotten a set of those when I bought parts last week.

I've just changed mine up to stock reds up front, yellow in the rear with the soft stabi in front/med in rear and it was waaaay too soft. Scraping body everywhere even on the smallest bumps and wobbly as all hell on the rocks. So I've since switched to stock yellows all around with the same stabi as the other set up and put in bent lower links but I haven't gotten out to test it yet.

I'd like to get thicker shock oil as well, maybe that will settle some of the wobbliness.

twisted · 11-07-2008, 02:02 PM

eeepee, have you tried any other bodies on your truck ?im currently messing around with junk bodies i have laying around.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...46#post1415846

EeePee · 11-07-2008, 02:30 PM

While I have a couple of HPI Rubicons, a HPI Bronco, an old Proline C-10, and Proline Courier all sitting in a corner in a pile keeping the dust off my floor, I've never tried sizing them up. I like the FJ40 wanna be Bushwacker enough to not really even want another one on there.

cman_1500w · 11-07-2008, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EeePee

Not really, and not really!

I guess I could assume mine has had water inside it, but I don't seem to be having any problems. I drive the truck for a little while after a water dunk, but I tend to put the thing away still dripping wet. And then the next time I run it the whole thing sounds crunchy for a bit. The wheels are all heavy on the bottom from the old water still inside, and the drivetrain sounds like shit. I use a lightweight oil drop on the bearings pretty often, well on the ones I can see and get to, but I haven't done anything otherwise.

I still have that cardboard piece in there, but I always thought it was something other than cardboard, and I don't want to bend one to find out. It feels ceramic actually.

I've had mine so waterlogged the bearings rusted up enough to keep the wheels from even turning..

I smeared clear silicone all around the case halves and all over the inside of the cardboard motor 'spacer' or whatever it is. I tested it in the water once and it seems ok so far. The axles seem less prone to water entry. I just smeared grease all over the dogbones and the pinion bearing.

Love this truck...It seems to surprise me every time I drive it. I already burned out the stock motor so I threw an old 55t in it for now. But I really think it would benefit from a 45t or even a 35t.

EeePee · 11-07-2008, 03:12 PM

Maybe you just need to drive it more often so it doesn't seize up!

I love this thing too, it's pretty damn fun to drive around, and fits perfectly between my comp truck and ... well whatever. It's great for having fun and not being too serious all the time.

I had a 55 turn in mine for a little while, but it's pretty slow with it. A 35 turn is a great substitute for the stock motor.
Tamiya is going to put out a 35 turn motor soon, and I know I'm getting it.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54114

Guess I can do a spring update while I'm here.

I've put some scale miles on the new springs and things and I gotta say, I like em! I went with the mediums up front, and the softs in the back, like Tamiya sets up the truck, only softer. And since I first got them, they've softened up a little and as a result I only have 2.5 inches of ground clearance under the skid, and that's noticeable, but not too much of a problem as the tires have down travel too. So if it's high centered, the tires droop a little and I can manage to get it free. I use the thick sway bar in back, and medium up front. It's got pretty good flex (for a scaler), but absorbs all those bumps with a good amount of wheel travel cause the springs are so soft. Pretty cool.

twisted · 11-07-2008, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EeePee

While I have a couple of HPI Rubicons, a HPI Bronco, an old Proline C-10, and Proline Courier all sitting in a corner in a pile keeping the dust off my floor, I've never tried sizing them up. I like the FJ40 wanna be Bushwacker enough to not really even want another one on there.

i like my stock body but everyone has got one......

Jeephead · 11-07-2008, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cman_1500w

Love this truck...It seems to surprise me every time I drive it. I already burned out the stock motor so I threw an old 55t in it for now. But I really think it would benefit from a 45t or even a 35t.

could you explain to me the difference between 55,45 & 35t motors? Power? Battery Life? Speed?
Thanks

bac74 · 11-07-2008, 08:25 PM

The number represents the turns on the motor. The higher the number, the more torque, but lower RPM. The lower numbered motors will produce more top end but less torque. They will also burn through the juice quicker. I recently threw a 27 turn Trinity Mystery Stock in mine and that thing is a blast. Seems to have plenty of bottom end too.

EeePee · 11-07-2008, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twisted

i like my stock body but everyone has got one......

Well that's because they're cool.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeephead

could you explain to me the difference between 55,45 & 35t motors? Power? Battery Life? Speed?
Thanks

This is pretty spot on...

Quote:

Originally Posted by bac74

The number represents the turns on the motor. The higher the number, the more torque, but lower RPM. The lower numbered motors will produce more top end but less torque. They will also burn through the juice quicker.

twisted · 11-07-2008, 11:20 PM

i agree they are cool but different is good too.

Unimog · 11-08-2008, 07:55 AM

To continue the topic of the motor a bit:
My car still has the stock motor in, but I also have a used 55t at hand.
I read elsewhere, that the more turns the motor, the slower the car.
But how much slower? It could be everything, from double the turns/half the speed to god-knows-what-ratio. Any hints?
I definitly want to make the car a better crawler and slower, but not as slow as, say, an AX-10. After all, it not supposed to be a crawler like this one.
So my choice is to change the pinion gear for a 18/17/16t or fit the 55t motor instead.
Trouble is, I cant judge beforehand the effect any of these modifications will make.
What would you recommend as a first step, please?

EeePee · 11-08-2008, 08:20 AM

Holmes Hobbies has a great little chart I can refer to:

Motor speeds (taken from random and averaged sample @ zero timing & 3100rpm):

10t = 6526 rpm/volt
15t = 4317 rpm/volt
17t = 3753 rpm/volt
20t = 3216 rpm/volt
21t = 3082 rpm/volt
23t = 2790 rpm/volt
25t = 2588 rpm/volt
35t = 1565 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt
65t = 837 rpm/volt

For every volt you put into the 55 turn motor it will spin ~987 times. So with a 7.2 volt input that's ~7106 rpm. The 25 turn motor (close enough to the stock 27 turn) it will be ~18,633 rpm. Quite a difference.

Unimog · 11-08-2008, 08:53 AM

Thank you very much for this help.
As someone with almost no knowledge in this area I aprecviate your help very much!

EeePee · 11-08-2008, 08:54 AM

vipxj · 11-08-2008, 12:08 PM

I had the standard 27t motor in mine with a 16t pinion and it went ok,good weelspeed but torque was ok,then i put a 55t in with a 20t pinion ,it was slower but torque was better and better slow speed control,and run time with the 55t was longer.
So correct as to what was said above,but i might try a 45t ,and see how that goes.

I think its a bit of trial and error to find what suits you.

Geess i talk crap!

Unimog · 11-08-2008, 01:36 PM

I think its a bit of trial and error to find what suits you.

[/QUOTE]

thanks!
I will probably start by switching to the 55t motor and then try it with several other pinions, higher or lower. that because i alredy have the motor, because the gears are cheap and because that way i will learn really fast to disassemble the gear-box. Something I dont know how to, because I got my CR-01 secondhand
Will keep you posted.
Tomorrow i will try out a different setup of lead in the wheels:
I measured the weight distribution on the axles, came out with a approx
60:40 ratio and subsequently made the rear wheels a bit heavier (200gr front, 150gr rear) to keep it better going downhill.
we will see and you will read.

10-18-2008, 10:43 PM	#101
twisted I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2,386	so the barrel springs are like a progressive spring ?

10-22-2008, 03:57 PM	#103
cman_1500w Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2004 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 662	EeePee, have you experienced any problems with the tranny taking in water? Every time I run mine in water the bearings rust up. Have you taken any preventative measures to waterproof it? Seems to me the water enters in through the motor past that cardboard piece. I'm at the point I want to swap in a pede tranny now..

10-22-2008, 07:05 PM	#104
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	Not really, and not really! I guess I could assume mine has had water inside it, but I don't seem to be having any problems. I drive the truck for a little while after a water dunk, but I tend to put the thing away still dripping wet. And then the next time I run it the whole thing sounds crunchy for a bit. The wheels are all heavy on the bottom from the old water still inside, and the drivetrain sounds like shit. I use a lightweight oil drop on the bearings pretty often, well on the ones I can see and get to, but I haven't done anything otherwise. I still have that cardboard piece in there, but I always thought it was something other than cardboard, and I don't want to bend one to find out. It feels ceramic actually.

10-23-2008, 08:44 AM	#105
860Crawler RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 1,048	The barrell spring set ups are interesting. Should have gotten a set of those when I bought parts last week. I've just changed mine up to stock reds up front, yellow in the rear with the soft stabi in front/med in rear and it was waaaay too soft. Scraping body everywhere even on the smallest bumps and wobbly as all hell on the rocks. So I've since switched to stock yellows all around with the same stabi as the other set up and put in bent lower links but I haven't gotten out to test it yet. I'd like to get thicker shock oil as well, maybe that will settle some of the wobbliness.

11-07-2008, 02:02 PM	#106
twisted I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2,386	eeepee, have you tried any other bodies on your truck ?im currently messing around with junk bodies i have laying around. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...46#post1415846

11-07-2008, 02:30 PM	#107
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	While I have a couple of HPI Rubicons, a HPI Bronco, an old Proline C-10, and Proline Courier all sitting in a corner in a pile keeping the dust off my floor, I've never tried sizing them up. I like the FJ40 wanna be Bushwacker enough to not really even want another one on there.

11-07-2008, 03:12 PM	#109
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	Maybe you just need to drive it more often so it doesn't seize up! I love this thing too, it's pretty damn fun to drive around, and fits perfectly between my comp truck and ... well whatever. It's great for having fun and not being too serious all the time. I had a 55 turn in mine for a little while, but it's pretty slow with it. A 35 turn is a great substitute for the stock motor. Tamiya is going to put out a 35 turn motor soon, and I know I'm getting it. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54114 Guess I can do a spring update while I'm here. I've put some scale miles on the new springs and things and I gotta say, I like em! I went with the mediums up front, and the softs in the back, like Tamiya sets up the truck, only softer. And since I first got them, they've softened up a little and as a result I only have 2.5 inches of ground clearance under the skid, and that's noticeable, but not too much of a problem as the tires have down travel too. So if it's high centered, the tires droop a little and I can manage to get it free. I use the thick sway bar in back, and medium up front. It's got pretty good flex (for a scaler), but absorbs all those bumps with a good amount of wheel travel cause the springs are so soft. Pretty cool.

11-07-2008, 08:25 PM	#112
bac74 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: fort myers Posts: 4	The number represents the turns on the motor. The higher the number, the more torque, but lower RPM. The lower numbered motors will produce more top end but less torque. They will also burn through the juice quicker. I recently threw a 27 turn Trinity Mystery Stock in mine and that thing is a blast. Seems to have plenty of bottom end too.

11-07-2008, 11:20 PM	#114
twisted I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 2,386	i agree they are cool but different is good too.

11-08-2008, 07:55 AM	#115
Unimog Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Germany Posts: 38	To continue the topic of the motor a bit: My car still has the stock motor in, but I also have a used 55t at hand. I read elsewhere, that the more turns the motor, the slower the car. But how much slower? It could be everything, from double the turns/half the speed to god-knows-what-ratio. Any hints? I definitly want to make the car a better crawler and slower, but not as slow as, say, an AX-10. After all, it not supposed to be a crawler like this one. So my choice is to change the pinion gear for a 18/17/16t or fit the 55t motor instead. Trouble is, I cant judge beforehand the effect any of these modifications will make. What would you recommend as a first step, please?

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11-08-2008, 08:20 AM	#116
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	Holmes Hobbies has a great little chart I can refer to: Motor speeds (taken from random and averaged sample @ zero timing & 3100rpm): 10t = 6526 rpm/volt 15t = 4317 rpm/volt 17t = 3753 rpm/volt 20t = 3216 rpm/volt 21t = 3082 rpm/volt 23t = 2790 rpm/volt 25t = 2588 rpm/volt 35t = 1565 rpm/volt 45t = 1210 rpm/volt 55t = 987 rpm/volt 65t = 837 rpm/volt For every volt you put into the 55 turn motor it will spin ~987 times. So with a 7.2 volt input that's ~7106 rpm. The 25 turn motor (close enough to the stock 27 turn) it will be ~18,633 rpm. Quite a difference.

11-08-2008, 08:53 AM	#117
Unimog Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Germany Posts: 38	Thank you very much for this help. As someone with almost no knowledge in this area I aprecviate your help very much!

11-08-2008, 08:54 AM	#118
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928

11-08-2008, 12:08 PM	#119
vipxj RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: tauranga north island new zealand Posts: 1,786	I had the standard 27t motor in mine with a 16t pinion and it went ok,good weelspeed but torque was ok,then i put a 55t in with a 20t pinion ,it was slower but torque was better and better slow speed control,and run time with the 55t was longer. So correct as to what was said above,but i might try a 45t ,and see how that goes. I think its a bit of trial and error to find what suits you. Geess i talk crap!

11-08-2008, 01:36 PM	#120
Unimog Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Germany Posts: 38	I think its a bit of trial and error to find what suits you. [/QUOTE] thanks! I will probably start by switching to the 55t motor and then try it with several other pinions, higher or lower. that because i alredy have the motor, because the gears are cheap and because that way i will learn really fast to disassemble the gear-box. Something I dont know how to, because I got my CR-01 secondhand Will keep you posted. Tomorrow i will try out a different setup of lead in the wheels: I measured the weight distribution on the axles, came out with a approx 60:40 ratio and subsequently made the rear wheels a bit heavier (200gr front, 150gr rear) to keep it better going downhill. we will see and you will read.

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