The Barnyard Buster scale chassis

[badger]

The only thing I dont like is the battery location. I know this is a "scaler" chassis and all but I want my scale rigs to perform the best they can which would mean moving the battery to above the servo and upper front links. It looks like there is enough clearance to move the battery down and still have decent articulation before it hits the frame rails or cross member, is that correct?

Really looking forward to getting my hands on one of those!

[EeePee]

Thin LiPo battery underneath that front tray area would be sweet. Invisible totally.

I can't wait to see this thing in person.

[microgoat]

And that's why I don't include any battery mounting hardware with the chassis. There are plenty of options for those of you who don't want to run a big ol' stick pack. Try a Mini-T pack on the front links, or on the rear electronics plate. Or a lipo, if that's your thing. An RC18T mini side-by-side pack would go nicely either on the front links or up top, and save a lot of weight.

[microgoat]

With a 3300 stick pack on the front links, you lose about 1/8 inch of up-travel before the battery hits the front crossmember. If you used a 2400 pack (smaller cells) you'd probably be okay.

With the battery up high, the truck tips over at about 45 degrees.

[microgoat]

With Bender's SW2 servo/link mounts and the Maxx shocks, there's a bit of funky geometry in the front suspension. I had to install 1/4 inch droop limiters and use the higher shock mount position, or the axle would rotate backwards and the driveshaft would seperate.

This kind of thing is inevitable when you try a mod that changes your geometry so radically. The links I'm using with the SW2 mount are half as long as the ones I designed it for.

So, you can use your own home-brew link mount and have full travel, or sacrifice a little front artic and use the nice finished looking Bender mounts. Or use shorter shocks, which will get the ride height down, too.

[microgoat]

Nothing but fawkin' snow here for the last week, so I painted up a new (yeah, I know, the "old" body was new, too) body for Buster, and tweaked the wheelbase so it fits. Cabin fever is really starting to kick in.

[dezfan]

Love the "new" body!

[Unimoger]

looks good goat, would love to see some pics with NO body on it.

[microgoat]

I know what you're thinkin', Mr. I've got a CNC out there in my shop

Here's some pics anyway

[Unimoger]

I know what you're thinkin', Mr. I've got a CNC out there in my shop

Here's some pics anyway


Nope, just wanted to drool alittle and be jealous. Looks awesome, I love it!

[microgoat]

I got a chance to take it outside (temps above freezing for a change) and give it the thrashing it so richly deserves. The chassis ain't half bad, but I'd forgotten how bad the Swamp Dawgs are on the rocks compared to the Moabs.

With a stick pack up on the frame, yes, it's tippy. Put a Mini-T pack up there and it's much better. The tires still suck, though. I don't want to cut them because they do look sweet and I can always slap the Moabs on there if I want some performance. Or I can drive one of my other crawlers.

On the backyard-bash course (landscaping ties and small rocks) it does just fine.

Overall, it drives like a lifted big-azz 1:1 truck, and that's what I was going for. Mission accomplished. And now it's dirty and scratched up, too

[microgoat]

thought I'd throw the steering servo up onto the chassis for more scaley looks. Of course, the SW2 link mounts kind of take away from that, but not as much as a servo does. The setup works relly well; no chassis movement with the steering at all, and the Mini-T pack fits nicely between the servo and the crossmember. But then, I did design it that way

And yes, I know my pack needs some shrink-wrap

[WRXronald]

Originally Posted by microgoat

Why TLT shocks? Mostly because they came with the kit, and the springs seem about right for this rig. They have a nice look, but they're not the best performing shocks by any stretch of the imagination. Not very smooth, limited travel and no spring selection whatsoever. It happens that the springs they come with work okay, so I left 'em on there.

If you want better performance, a set of Pede fronts (the shorter ones) with Mini LST springs (green front, silver rear) works very well. You have to watch frame clearance in the back, though, with fatter shocks. Even the TLT shocks rub the frame unless they're mounted inboard on the axle like the pic below.

Also, you'll want to single-narrow the backside of your rims so they don't hit the front links at full lock, but you'll probably do that anyway.

Hey all... sorry for this off topic Q in here... but its KILLING me--- where can i find rod mounts like the ones shown in this picture (pic from post #84 on page 5 of this thread). the mounts connecting the lower rods to the axle. i have torn Sears hardware and Lowes APART looking for these darn little things!!! what are they? where are they?

thanks much for you patience.

Awesome CHASSIS btw. makes me REALLY wish i didn't WASTE $$ on a PTI MTT and stretch it (can't get wheelbase beyond 10.5inches due to CVD selection limitations)... this would have been a MUCH cooler starting platform to have and probably wouldn't have cost me much more AT all.

[mikhail]

They come with the TLT kit. Tower hobbies has them separately if you search their site.

[microgoat]

That's it, I'm done screwin' around with this sucka. Back to the as-designed link lengths to get the full articulation back, but I left the servo up top just because it's so damn cool.

Now I've got the industry-standard pop-can articulation and reasonable stability with the Mini-T pack. The Mini LST silver springs are a little soft but the greenies seem to do the job.

I'm thinkin' a Mini-T shock down on the axle would make a nifty scale steering damper

[WRXronald]

Originally Posted by mikhail

They come with the TLT kit. Tower hobbies has them separately if you search their site.

please elaborate

i've already searched everything 'TLT' at tower.... not much comes up. do you know what search words to use? i've tried all kinds of stuff like mount, shock mount, etc.... didn't find them.

didn't see it under 'bracket' either... but there were a good few 'bracket' items with 'no picture available'... otherwise i didn't see it.

this isn't it is it? well at almost $6 i HIGHLY doubt it. but no picture and kinda sounds like the explanation of what it is...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLWC7&P=7

"universal U bracket untapped"

thanks

[microgoat]

Both upper and lower "suspension stays" carry Tamiya part number 9804179. The manual refers to the upper stay (the one we use as the link and shock mount) as BJ1, and the lower stay (the one we use as a center link mount) as BN1. 9804179 should get you a bag with four of each. I haven't ordered them seperately, so I'm not sure, but this ought to be the case.

Now, check out my steering damper

[K_Willis]

Although I'm sure the steering would work a lot better without it, I have to say that damper looks bad a$$. If it's just for looks heck take all the oil out of the shock and it would likely be pretty smooth.

Have to ask though, with the servo on the chassis, how much does it affect the steering as the axle articulates?

You know what's really scary? I think I have seen dodgier steering setups on some of the lifted 1:1s around here...

[JohnRobHolmes]

depending on the weight used, dampers can be great for taking stress off the servo. In a faster vehicle (like a scale rig) you can use a damper and avoid running a servo saver. It takes the big hits off the servo, and doesnt affect the servo at all if the oil is right.

[Unimoger]

I freggin' love it, I am gonna try something like that on the courier. Nice work Goat, always a step ahead, dammit.