Eyeball Engineering

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by rob_b

I always say that its better to spend all the time and money in the garage rather than down at the pub.

Better for you? Yes.

Better for the pub owner? No.

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

I think I've got it, but what the hell, never hurts to double check.

I'm assuming that every mark is .0005?

you got it!

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by rob_b

Yes sir.

Originally Posted by BigSki

you got it!

Yeppers......

Soooo......are you .003" out, or .0015" out?? If it's .0015" out, you're good.

[braceysdad]

You should make a scale motor and drive train... I bet everyone would pay hundreds down

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Yeppers......

Do you ever offer anything independently helpful, or just back up what other people say?

Originally Posted by braceysdad

You should make a scale motor and drive train... I bet everyone would pay hundreds down

Good idea. I'll take up a collection now for the R&D work....

[braceysdad]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Good idea. I'll take up a collection now for the R&D work....

Taking over RCC $5.00 at a time...

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Do you ever offer anything independently helpful, or just back up what other people say?

Yeah, what he said....

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Do you ever offer anything independently helpful, or just back up what other people say? ....

I really wanted to know how far out the parts were, in the process I "backed up" what others stated.

So, are you .003" out or .0015" out? Since you asked about the reading, I'm guessing there is some doubt on how far out you are (actually, how far the bits are......)

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

I really wanted to know how far out the parts were, in the process I "backed up" what others stated.

So, are you .003" out or .0015" out? Since you asked about the reading, I'm guessing there is some doubt on how far out you are (actually, how far the bits are......)

.003" out. If I had been wrong the first time around I would have made the correction.

[Slowkrawl]

Not trying to hi-jack your thread, but thought I'd post a couple pics of the machines I picked up yesterday.




I still have to get them set up, but I am looking forward to the learning curve. It's funny how all of a sudden EVERYONE has a project they could use a lathe/mill for, but that's awesome because it will give me projects to learn on.

Edit: On christmas day when my family opens up empty boxes, I will include a link to this thread and blame you guys!!

[Duuuuuuuude]

Nice!

That's the same mill I have, just a newer version and with a different name on it.

[CREEPERBOB]

Nice setup , I can't wait to get my Logan lathe up and running so I can use my Smithy as a dedicated mill instead of the 3 in 1 setup I'm using it as now.
Now start making chips .

Originally Posted by Slowkrawl

Not trying to hi-jack your thread, but thought I'd post a couple pics of the machines I picked up yesterday.




I still have to get them set up, but I am looking forward to the learning curve. It's funny how all of a sudden EVERYONE has a project they could use a lathe/mill for, but that's awesome because it will give me projects to learn on.

Edit: On christmas day when my family opens up empty boxes, I will include a link to this thread and blame you guys!!

[Slowkrawl]

Thanks fella's, I was originally looking at the 3 in 1's, because I thought that was all I could fit. I decided to just make it happen in the garage and pulled the pin on those 2 machines. Their "small" in industry standards but I kind of beg to differ, I just about blew an o-ring trying to wiggle that damn mill off a pallet by myself haha. Still getting them set up(and the garage back together, did some major re-organizing haha) but I'll be bustin' tooling in no time.

[docsrcrepair]

Originally Posted by Slowkrawl

Thanks fella's, I was originally looking at the 3 in 1's, because I thought that was all I could fit. I decided to just make it happen in the garage and pulled the pin on those 2 machines. Their "small" in industry standards but I kind of beg to differ, I just about blew an o-ring trying to wiggle that damn mill off a pallet by myself haha. Still getting them set up(and the garage back together, did some major re-organizing haha) but I'll be bustin' tooling in no time.

You don't want to know what I set my mill base on putting it in the back of my dually lets just say I drove home with a cup of ice between my legs and my buddy lhao the whole way home.
As a machine repairman I would strongly suggest checking all your alignments on those mill's. The column on my gearheaded HF mill was out of tram by about .020, I wound up breaking the column loose and reshimming it. Also the spindle bearings are not the best quality in any of these mill's, I would recommend ordering a high quality matched set for when they do. If you start noticing backlash the leadnuts are actually a split brass nut so you can adjust them,but be careful not to over do it. They will lock up..then your sol
Last but not least, you see those funny looking scraping marks on the ways? Better known as flowering..those are to retain lubrication. If you these dry don't expect them to hold tolerance very long, they really are not hardened. Use medium/heavy way lube to keep things moving nicely, I would recommend a thinner oil on the lead screws. Unless you put a centralized automatic lube system on it..LOL but if you do wire so that its on a timer otherwise you'll walk into the shop and find a big puddle on the floor.

[Slowkrawl]

Do you have a link to a how-to on adjusting backlash?

[Duuuuuuuude]

You use a allen wrench to adjust these. Basically you tighten them down to get the slop out of the lead screw. Don't get crazy, you won't get it all out with the stock parts.

Your best bet, once you get familiar with the machine, is to replace them with delrin nuts like I did.

[docsrcrepair]

Originally Posted by Slowkrawl

Do you have a link to a how-to on adjusting backlash?

Sorry I don't, I guess I never really thought about it since I do it as my regular day job everyday..LOL BIGGEST thing is keeping it lubed up. The one we had at work in the maintenance department got thrashed because nobody would lube it. Now its sitting out in the back 40 rusting away.
Duuuuddeee where did you find the delrin leadscrew nut at? That would work much smoother than the brass.

[Duuuuuuuude]

I made them.

Its pretty simple to do, though it becomes quite a process if you are making the parts for the same mill you are making the parts on. Lots of taking apart and putting together.

I'm pretty sure there is something about it in this thread, if not, I'm really sure there is something in the Machinists Corner thread.

It is well worth the effort though. Just for ease of use both nuts run at .003" backlash. I could have gone less but it gets tiresome to crank after a while. All I have to do is spray some WD40 on the lead screws to keep the rust away, otherwise they are silky smooth.

Initially the table nut was at about .001", but once the weather turned cold it tightened up noticeably. I ended up taking it apart and working a bit more clearance in it.

[docsrcrepair]

Ill look for that info, delrin is a breeze to work out. Is the head on your mill keyed to the column? I ran across a article on these style mills that it made a Hugh difference and you can actually add a drive to the column to move the whole head up and down. Plus you don't have to worry about the head swinging around on the column.

I have added a misting system to mine, I do have plans of putting a way lube system like a Bridgeport has. I do have a coolant flood system to install for cutting on steel. Alumn I will just use the mister. A big problem I also ran I ran into on mine was lighting on the backside of the chuck, so i went and picked up one of those flex head desk lamps. I took it apart and installed it on a electrical rigid switch box, mounted it on the side of the mill head. It makes trace milling a breeze now..
Another trick to help control chip problems is to get one of those small 2 gallon shop vacs and mount it up to the base of the stand. Then just take and attach a magnet to the bottom side of the nozzle attachment. Its removable but yet will help catch most of the chips coming off the cutter. Also makes recycling the chips a lot easier.

[Duuuuuuuude]

No key. If I adjust the head height and forget to lock it back down, it jumps to the side pretty good.

Somewhere I found a site where a guy has made all kinds of cool mods on one of these machines. He's got a 4 legged strut assembly that will allow you to go up/down with the head, but won't let it swing.

He's also got a really nice led light that IIRC was originally a halo ring for an automotive headlight. Fits nicely around the quill and throws a butt load of light on your work. He sourced it from eBay for dirt cheap. I'm gonna have to go look for that...

90% of my work is with plastic, so cooling isn't a big deal. The remaining 9.9% is aluminum, and I don't push through too hard. A little lube brushed on goes a long ways.

I've got a shop vac, but I typically wait until there is a pretty good mess before I pull it out. A week or so ago I made a lexan chip shield to keep the mess to the sides and behind the machine, and it does a fair job. At least I'm not slinging swarf 6' out now.