![]() | #81 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Portugal
Posts: 422
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all these wheels: ![]() |
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Sponsored Links | |
![]() | #82 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 404
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Grills, engines, opening hoods, dash's, interiors, wheels, receiver boxes, whole comp chassis, axle tubes, axle centres. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk |
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Rock Stacker ![]() Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Raeford
Posts: 83
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RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Calgary - in the Great White North
Posts: 1,370
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![]() | #85 |
Moderator ![]() Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,511
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![]() | #86 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Orem
Posts: 183
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The whole front end on my rig. ![]() ![]() |
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![]() | #87 |
Rock Stacker ![]() Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Raeford
Posts: 83
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Looks nice. What printer are you using?
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![]() | #88 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 404
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Thanks!! For the Tube caged bronco, there is two. Brocky - KOH 4500 class replica Vaugn Gitten Jnr "Brocky" build If you mean the purple comp chassis, its here. Custom 3d printed comp chassis build | |
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![]() | #89 |
Rock Stacker ![]() Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Raeford
Posts: 83
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Try this again, Vw Hubcaps. I've printed some and they turned out pretty good.
Last edited by vwdaveb; 03-13-2021 at 05:56 PM. |
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![]() | #90 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Calgary - in the Great White North
Posts: 1,370
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Those look good! How'd they print?
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![]() | #91 |
Rock Stacker ![]() Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Raeford
Posts: 83
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Pretty Good. Can send you the STL if you'd like. I mounted the others with magnets. Not the best way, but the RC they go on won't see allot of speed.
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![]() | #92 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Calgary - in the Great White North
Posts: 1,370
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Hey that'd be great. I'll PM you my email address. Cheers, Todd |
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![]() | #93 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Calgary - in the Great White North
Posts: 1,370
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What are you putting them on?
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![]() | #94 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 430
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Hey gang. So I've spent a few dozen hours printing a mobile bridge (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028287) and want to now bond the pieces that I need to together. I've got Gorilla Super Glue at the ready as I saw that it works well with PLA (and I've tested it myself indoors) - but now I'm reading that it's not going to be good when used outdoors or in wet conditions. I've got epoxy, but in my recent test (24h+ cure time), my prints failed to bond as strongly as the super glue did, so I really don't think it'll work well in this case. How have you guys been bonding PLA? What will happen if I use the Gorilla Super Glue outdoors? |
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![]() | #95 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 19
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![]() | #96 | |
Tiny Truck Hoarder ![]() Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Humboldt county
Posts: 4,408
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You might look for Loctite's waterproof Super Glue ULTRA Liquid Control from Loctite Adhesives seems like it should work for with wet and freezing conditions, although I noticed they say its waterproof in their video but on the product itself it says water resistant. Anyway thats a fairly small bridge so even if a joint comes unbonded it should be pretty easy to just glue it again. One other factor is that PLA will absorb water too but at any rate I dont think I'd worry too much. | |
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![]() | #97 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 430
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Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I was hoping to have this done in PETG, but I have a hard enough time getting good layer adhesion on a small print with PETG let alone these 9h+ prints.
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![]() | #98 | |
Tiny Truck Hoarder ![]() Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Humboldt county
Posts: 4,408
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I did have issues getting the initial layers to stick with PETG though. I think part of my issue was a dirty or worn out nozzle. I also tweaked my initial layer height making it closer to the print bed, I did this because I thought it had shifted due to a mistake anyway that change seemed to help it. I'll also leave my houses heater turned up to 65-70 hoping that the heat will help it. Now most of my PETG failures are from bridging over support, it does a better job bridging over thin air sadly (so long as it a small-ish bridge). It seems to snag the supports and as it snags more and more it melts and sticks to the nozzle, eventually it builds up a big glob that will start to snag even more. Designing the print so it has a nice flat base to adhere to the print bed as well as keeping things simple for the sake of making it print friendly has helped me to be more successful with PETG. Last edited by HumboldtEF; 03-26-2019 at 05:59 PM. | |
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![]() | #99 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 430
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PETG sticking to the bed has never been an issue, but the globbing and stringing definitely has. I haven't nailed down the perfect settings yet, and PLA has been so easy to print with that I haven't had a break long enough to experiment with.
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![]() | #100 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Hells basement
Posts: 284
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I think I have a addiction... Gonna have to add reinforcement to the back half of the frame on the lwb and maybe some notch blocks for the body to rest on the back of the frame as well just to be on the safe side... oh and... figure out how far I can clock the front axle to get the pinion angle better on the front axle.. or do some test fitting with some WB8 cvd driveshafts. |
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