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Old 03-09-2012, 05:29 AM   #81
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Rig looks great! I can't wait to get a reply from rmdw bout parts! I also lost a lot of articulation when I mounted my losi shocks, so I'm back to stock before I read vcdud s thread an try an see how he got more out of them with the stock chassis... It crawls great now, I can only imagine what it will do with all the parts from rmdw..! Great video
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:30 AM   #82
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I was also wondering the same thing bout wanting too much out of the rig... Good question, can't wait to see the responses.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:42 PM   #83
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One23..start a build thread..post up some pics...we'll get your shocks right
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:19 AM   #84
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Going to have to add more bracing, hopefully one more at the top will do.

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Old 03-11-2012, 10:21 AM   #85
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Holy crap....how are you guys doing this stuff? Ive been running these chassis' for a couple of years now and have never done the damage that you guys are.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:00 AM   #86
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Simple....we roll over, it hits at the front shock or side of the chassis, and it bends. I have 3 1300mah packs ran through it so far.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:09 AM   #87
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I kind of figured it had to of hit the shock due to the pressure angle necessary to bend the chassis there...was it a pretty hard hit?
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:18 AM   #88
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Damn, that's worse than the Creeper link my wife bent. Good job .



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Going to have to add more bracing, hopefully one more at the top will do.

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Old 03-11-2012, 11:30 AM   #89
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I kind of figured it had to of hit the shock due to the pressure angle necessary to bend the chassis there...was it a pretty hard hit?
Don't know when or which roll over it happened, lol... I do remember one hard hit in particular but it ended back on it's wheels and I kept going, never checked it. I was running it on those rocks in the vid above. That vid was the first run, 2nd and 3rd pack I ran it a lot harder and had it bound up good in some spots, but to my surprise it usually made it out.
Alll in all, besides too much tt for my likings the rig impressed me....I can deal with adding bracing to suit my lack of driving style, lol.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:39 AM   #90
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Recieved the HR hubs and knuckles today. Great looking pieces...



But ran into a snag on install. You have to reuse your spacer sleeve from the stock knuckle. When I went to tighten down the knuckle to hub it would bind like crazy. Ended up having to add 1 shim inbetween the hub and knuckle. Did'nt matter if it was put on the top or bottom side. After that it was silky smooth.




Also started the truss installs. Got the rear finished but have a question on the fronts. The supplied button head screw holding the link stay on pushes the truss away from the axle housing. I'm wondering which way you guys are mounting the truss? Obviously your own supplied spacers are needed for the rears and fronts as well ,but are you guys spacing the truss far enough away from the axle for the button head screw clearance, countersinking the truss, or drilling a hole through the axle housing?
Or some other way I'm not thinking of?
I'm going to countersink the truss unless I hear of a better way of doing it before I install it tomorrow. I figure countersunk keeps from needing a spacer at the hub and keeps the truss closer to the axle for support.

Pic of what I'm talking about and am going to countersink.




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I dont know how I missed this post bro...sorry...one of the thicker 2mm spacers from the Creeper kit will work fine behind the truss at the chubs...countersinking is fine though.

Ive been trying to find a decent 2mm spacer that is uniform in manufacture that can be included in the kit...and when I do find them theyll be added to the truss kit..

The last three sets of HR knuckles and C-hubs that Ive put together have had these same issues...I wind up grinding the c-hub ears down to allow the "top hat" to be put into the knuckle from the inside where it should be.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:54 AM   #91
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I just watched your video from the 8th...your rig seems to handle just like mine...pressure angles are key when thinking TT...how much weight do you have in each front wheel?

Driving tip...when the front end is rocked up high and you want it to settle on the spot...wiggle the steering real fast...this will relieve the pressure angle and allow the axle to settle...the rig seems to be flexing well and getting good traction...and the biggest thing..you kept it on its wheels
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:57 AM   #92
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Yes I have countersunk screws in a couple spots on my trusses as well and works great .
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:17 PM   #93
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I dont know how I missed this post bro...sorry...one of the thicker 2mm spacers from the Creeper kit will work fine behind the truss at the chubs...countersinking is fine though.

Ive been trying to find a decent 2mm spacer that is uniform in manufacture that can be included in the kit...and when I do find them theyll be added to the truss kit..
Would'nt it just be easier to countersink that hole? Or advise to do so? I seen creeperbob grinded on his front truss to allow for more steering clearance. With the truss sitting closer to the axle it would give that little bit more steering rather than being spaced out another 2mm. Or do you not want to do that for structural strength? Or another reason that's flying right over my head, lol.


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The last three sets of HR knuckles and C-hubs that Ive put together have had these same issues...I wind up grinding the c-hub ears down to allow the "top hat" to be put into the knuckle from the inside where it should be.
Quality control over at HR must be nappin...


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I just watched your video from the 8th...your rig seems to handle just like mine...pressure angles are key when thinking TT...how much weight do you have in each front wheel?
That's reassuring then, glad it's not way out of wack. I'll have to do some more fiddling then and see what (if anything) I can do about the tt.

For weights I'm running somewhere around 3-4 ounces in the front. (can't remember exactly how much). I'll check it out when I get a chance. Nothing in the rear.

Good deal on the driving tip...I'll put it to good use.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:51 PM   #94
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Try adding another ounce to each front for a while and see if you like that better..your forward bias should be right about a 1/4" forward of the trans skid plate...front edge of the skid is good too...you may want to add at least a couple ounces to each rear or to the axle housing so you can try the difference on some different lines..

Not everyone has a countersink...I do of course but I am leery of CS each front truss for those two holes that line up on the axle tube...additionally...a spacer between the truss and c-hub only takes away about 1* of the steering..maybe 2* but thats not that much. I have redesigned the front trusses to alleviate these issues. The original design had the spacer in mind and my axle has had spacers from the start. The original design also called for milled link blocks though that would have allowed for CS the trusses without any strength issues.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:09 AM   #95
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Will work on the weights and post up my findings.

Yeah, did'nt think of eveyone having a countersink bit. I'll be watchin your thread for the release of the v-3.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:15 AM   #96
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Ill take care of the guys who have v2's..figure out a special deal or something.
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:45 AM   #97
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Did a little work on the rig. Checked how much weight I had in the front tires and it's right at 4oz. I ended up moving those to the rear and placing 6oz in the front. Rig is alot more balanced now front to rear.
Weighed the rig rtr and it toped at 5lbs 15oz. We'll see how it likes it on the rocks.

Messed with the shock locations and lowered the overall height by about 1/2". That alone let me get back to 60 degrees on the incline board.... (I'm surprised how much that made a difference) But I don't like the loss of ground clearance. I'm determined to have both the clearance and 60+ degress on the board.
I Absolutly Hate the TT!, by the time I'm done it'll either be able to do it with all 4 planted or you'll see me with a moa.

Also installed the new beadlocks while I had the wheels apart. Later on I'll de-anno the inner beadlocks....maybe even spray em black afterwards.



Next thing I'm going to do is re-mount the electronics. I want to get the reciever lower and rid of the clutter.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:56 PM   #98
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Changed all the electronic mounting locations. Moved the esc as low as I could, moved the bec to the other side, and took the rx off of the top and installed to the back of the tranny.
Was going to make some lexan guards but the stuff I have here is too thick....that'll have to wait.





I also straightened out the front of the chassis and added a brace so hopefully it won't happen again. Will I was at it I chopped the front of the chassis off where the front brace is suppose to go. It always got in the way of the btl plate when flexing....problem solved.


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Old 03-19-2012, 11:28 PM   #99
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Are you planning on comping this rig bro?
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:42 AM   #100
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Are you planning on comping this rig bro?
No plans on comping it, but wanted to keep it to comp rules if I ever did decide to try it out.
Your question just got me thinking though and had to look up the rules. I'd have to run a body now if I did ever decide to try a comp out.....ooops.
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