wanting a winner... build thread

[winnerone23]

I have been on here for a while now an think its time, before its too late to get my build on as a thread. Bare with me as I just downloaded Photobucket an haven figured it out yet.. cause there isn't much a point of a build thread without pics of the rig! To start off I traded my tmaxx for the creeper.. a fellow crawler I talked to said I didn't win with this trade but not a bad crawler.. just, that I shouldn't expect too much out of it! I got the creeper stock kit ( built) with a traxxas tx an micro rx. With a cc sidewinder Sct edition esc, and a hitec 645mg servo, everything else stock..

Since then... As it sits..

Still the hitec 645mg.., for now, I have a 209oz servo to go on next time I peel it apart for lube an my paradox parts that are ordered....

Cc sidewinder Sct edition esc , waiting on finding a castle link for it yet.
Any one got one they don't use?

Venom 50t motor, stock gearing

Panther cougar tires with weights, 6 oz up front 3oz in rear, foams are fresh today. They are proline memory foam cut in 1 inch slabs(until my paradox foams get here an my rovers...

Hr lockouts in rear, stock up front.. for now.. the steer link is moved on top the knuckles with a spacer in between the tabs, an the tie rod on top the servo..

Shocks moved down with the lower links and the top hole of the chassis, f/r, front upper links are bent axial aluminum links on the outside of the tabs with a 15mm spacer in between. Rear uppers are on the outside of the tabs with a ball joint spacer between them an the tabs an a 15mm spacer between the tabs.

Rear shaft is a axial shaft with metal yokes(look just like my traxxas shafts an metal yokes),just not on yet... The front shaft is two female shafts, as the pins pulled out of the bell end of both male shafts, with a full piece of male shaft inside the two females.. holding strong! That's why the traxxas shafts aren't on yet, plus the set screw in the one female shaft is red loctite an stripped out from when I got it...

Battery tray is still on but modified... The top an ends are cut off, the sides are cut off the farthest two support screws are cut off(making room for the Shocks to be there)

Lastly... A skid plate, I made out of an old broken piece of 4wheeler fender.. heated an molded to fit then cut down to work with the links an fro t shaft..

Ok, hope the pic is painted well enough in ur minds eye... I Will now attempt to get pics on here..

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

I have been on here for a while now an think its time, before its too late to get my build on as a thread. Bare with me as I just downloaded Photobucket an haven figured it out yet.. cause there isn't much a point of a build thread without pics of the rig! To start off I traded my tmaxx for the creeper.. a fellow crawler I talked to said I didn't win with this trade but not a bad crawler.. just, that I shouldn't expect too much out of it! I got the creeper stock kit ( built) with a traxxas tx an micro rx. With a cc sidewinder Sct edition esc, and a hitec 645mg servo, everything else stock..

Since then... As it sits..

Still the hitec 645mg.., for now, I have a 209oz servo to go on next time I peel it apart for lube an my paradox parts that are ordered....

Cc sidewinder Sct edition esc , waiting on finding a castle link for it yet.
Any one got one they don't use?

Venom 50t motor, stock gearing

Panther cougar tires with weights, 6 oz up front 3oz in rear, foams are fresh today. They are proline memory foam cut in 1 inch slabs(until my paradox foams get here an my rovers...

Hr lockouts in rear, stock up front.. for now.. the steer link is moved on top the knuckles with a spacer in between the tabs, an the tie rod on top the servo..

Shocks moved down with the lower links and the top hole of the chassis, f/r, front upper links are bent axial aluminum links on the outside of the tabs with a 15mm spacer in between. Rear uppers are on the outside of the tabs with a ball joint spacer between them an the tabs an a 15mm spacer between the tabs.

Rear shaft is a axial shaft with metal yokes(look just like my traxxas shafts an metal yokes),just not on yet... The front shaft is two female shafts, as the pins pulled out of the bell end of both male shafts, with a full piece of male shaft inside the two females.. holding strong! That's why the traxxas shafts aren't on yet, plus the set screw in the one female shaft is red loctite an stripped out from when I got it...

Battery tray is still on but modified... The top an ends are cut off, the sides are cut off the farthest two support screws are cut off(making room for the Shocks to be there)

Lastly... A skid plate, I made out of an old broken piece of 4wheeler fender.. heated an molded to fit then cut down to work with the links an fro t shaft..

Ok, hope the pic is painted well enough in ur minds eye... I Will now attempt to get pics on here..

Good detailed first post...I have written a tutorial in my Tips thread for Photobucket. Make sure when you get the link codes that you copy the ones that have [IMG] at both ends and copy the full sized links not the thumbnails. When you post the link codes stack them..dont allow them to follow..that will make the pics come up side by side...you can pick multiple pics then go to the bottom of the PB page and get all of the links in one shot instead of copying each one...

[rmdesignworks]

I would also suggest a Hitec HS7954 servo as it has 400+ oz/in at 7.4vdc.....the 645mg is rated at like 222 oz/in IIRC. Get a good aluminum clamping servo horn too thats about 1" from the center of the servo horn screw to the center of the outer link mounting hole.

For clarification sake....the steering link as you called it is the TIE ROD...the tie rod as you called it is the DRAG LINK.

[winnerone23]

Ok, lol, I knew after I wrote that that I had them wrong.. trying to pump too much info thru my brain at once... I also missed my new tx an rx..


I'm running a .. JRracing xr3i tx an rx, rx is waterproofed. 75mhz...

[winnerone23]

Ok, I'm not sure if it was just a bad day or if my servo is crapping out on me... It didn't even want to turn the wheels while sitting flat on a rock. An it was warm, warmer then I had ever noticed before.. worked great yesterday. The other crawler I was crawling with had the same servo an said bout it bein weak as well. Neither of us have a Bec tho. He was running 2s an me 6 cell ni-mh... I have a Bec on the way. Does it make that much of a diff? Anyone have a idea of how many volts the servo gets without a Bec? .... If the 645mg is 222oz it must be bad, my ae-2 seems to have more power an its like 130oz..

I still can't get pics to work.. ill do more reading an more testing till it does work.. for a little help, is anyone else posting pics from a smart phone with Photobucket?

[winnerone23]

Hitec 645mg servo... 133oz @ 6 volts

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

Ok, I'm not sure if it was just a bad day or if my servo is crapping out on me... It didn't even want to turn the wheels while sitting flat on a rock. An it was warm, warmer then I had ever noticed before.. worked great yesterday. The other crawler I was crawling with had the same servo an said bout it bein weak as well. Neither of us have a Bec tho. He was running 2s an me 6 cell ni-mh... I have a Bec on the way. Does it make that much of a diff? Anyone have a idea of how many volts the servo gets without a Bec? .... If the 645mg is 222oz it must be bad, my ae-2 seems to have more power an its like 130oz..

I still can't get pics to work.. ill do more reading an more testing till it does work.. for a little help, is anyone else posting pics from a smart phone with Photobucket?

My bad bro...I usually dont speak up without verifying numbers first...for some reason I was thinkin the 645 had more power than that...but yeah its 133oz/in at 6vdc...any servo under 300 is going to struggle especially when the front tires are wedged...

Yes the BEC makes that much of a difference but so does the lipo...even though your friends lipo is the same voltage as your nimh the mah and c-rating of his lipo will kill your nimh. Nicads punch hard and drain fast...Nimhs punch softer but last longer...Lipos punch hard and last longer depending on the c-rating.

Now...the servo is only going to work as well as the voltage supply...a 7.4vdc nimh through the esc to the Rx to the servo is giving whatever the max output voltage is of the ESC's onboard BEC...but the bec is also powering the Rx plus current draw is increased as the motor is being used...bog the tires down and make the motor work harder then current draw increases exponentially. The tiny little brushed and brushless motors in servos are generally maxed at about 8vdc before they fail..some will some wont...so you have voltage limits on them. Even though the motors are so small they can still pull between 7 - 10 amps at stall (when the servo cant turn) but as the battery drains and available voltage drops off the servo struggles more which means it has a higher current draw more often which causes it to stall and since the Rx and servo are getting power from the same source..the internal esc bec...the Rx can stall and stutter because the current draw is too high for what the bec provide.

An external BEC like a CCBEC takes power direct from the battery for as long as the battery has enough voltage to do so. The esc powers the Rx and the bec gives the servo every thing it can based on set voltage and available power...up to 10amps. Even a weak servo will work better if it gets more power for a longer period of time.

You need a bigger servo and a bec for a crawler...any servo under 300 oz/in isnt going to give the performance you want in a crawler.

[winnerone23]

Great info! Cc Bec on It's way, hoping I can find someone that makes a connector wire for a Bec, to just plug in An play!... LOL... Lipos an charger on there way as well.. I also figured out how I can mount my losi shocks without binding.. I'm goin to screw a stock creeper shock shaft end onto The losi shock shaft end. There longer, it should work? The spring cup was binding on my link. Also not much articulation goin on, I came across something Thomas wrote bout the drive shaft bottomin out inside its self.. thanks Thomas, I'll be workin on that tomm as my front axle is clicking an ready for a greasing as well.. ill get back to it tomm after work..

[28offroader]

Thomas (Rmdesignworks) makes that plug and play bec connector. Only thing that is'nt plug and play with it is the main power going to the bec.

[venomcrawlerdud]

Originally Posted by 28offroader

Thomas (Rmdesignworks) makes that plug and play bec connector. Only thing that is'nt plug and play with it is the main power going to the bec.

you can make that plug and play also just by adding a cannector to the bec

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by venomcrawlerdud

you can make that plug and play also just by adding a cannector to the bec

If you order a CC BEC through me..I program it to the voltage you want/need and I add an LST male/female connector to the battery leads...you just have to solder the female plug to your battery leads of the esc.

I keep meaning to add this to the website and just dont seem to get to it.

[winnerone23]

Thanks guys, the ,lol, behind it is cause I have been talking to Thomas. He is sold out. So I just thru it on there... Thomas pm getting sent.. I wish I would of know this info two days ago, lol. It's already ordered..

[winnerone23]

I have connectors, have seen ur diagrams on it, I'm just no good at soldering....never works for me The way the videos show... I actually have multiple( six inch wire lengths with female/male ends already on them.. just pull a wire, cap it off an add a wire to the Bec? Just read it over last night... I'll reread an test once the Bec shows up. How does it get programmed? With a computer or?

[28offroader]

The bec gets programmed with a castle link programmer through the computer or a castle field programmer which you can do without a computer. Either of which you will need to buy seperate as it does'nt come with a bec. The bec is set at ...(edit) 5.1v default.

[winnerone23]

Ok so think castle link does both.. the Bec an esc.. ok, I'm in the sale area looking for one that isn't sold! Haha..... Next, is it set at 6v from the factory? Or 5.1v? I only read what was wrote here in a thread. If It's already 6v, ill let it be..

[2500hdon37s]

Originally Posted by winnerone23

Ok so think castle link does both.. the Bec an esc.. ok, I'm in the sale area looking for one that isn't sold! Haha..... Next, is it set at 6v from the factory? Or 5.1v? I only read what was wrote here in a thread. If It's already 6v, ill let it be..

they come set at 5.1v you'll need a castle link to change it to 6v.

just got my castle link hooked up to my BEC's the other day, made a noticeable difference!

[viper6171]

yeah the castle link setup is great you can adjust the voltage for the bec as well as you can make adjustments to the esc to suit your driving style

[rmdesignworks]

I changed the stock status on the BEC JACKS...it wasnt supposed to have a sold out html code...and should be good now...let me know if not though.

[winnerone23]

Ok, I'm no tech guy.... There are only 9 pics then they repeat then all my pics show up. There are only 9 of the creeper... 1-9 not sure how else to do it from my phone, this was just a first attempt.. please bare with me. I'll get it right when I figure it out.. any help on what you see would be helpful, thanks

[28offroader]

Edit your post and then paste the link with the "img" at the beginning and the end instead. Then the pictures will show up in the thread.