Stock SCX10 Performance Tech.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Louisbaby

It's been said before, but thanks for this thread dude. Great info all in one place.

Question: with regards to weight and COG. In the standard setup, you have your battery on the plate above the front axle mounted on the 3 stand off posts. Now different people have different ideas with regards to switching to saddle packs on the rock sliders, and removing the battery plate over the front axle.

Then others say to add wheel weights to the stock setup.

My question is which is the better option? I have a Dingo that's pretty much stock, except for brushless system, and about 200 grams per front tire.

Thanks for your help...

I currently run saddle packs on the sliders...Some may run smaller Mah batteries but just use one at a time in the same location.

Weight in the wheels is more a traction enhancement even though it does help with weight distribution.

Ill be covering that shortly as the last segment to this particular thread.

The 2 most common places are just in front of the trans or on the sliders...Either is a much better choice to over the axles.

I use 3.5oz of weight in each tire on mine currently.

[6sharky9]

I have to add though I don't care for a lot of weight...this is the main reason I went with a saddle pack to mount on the sliders..im 35g more using a 4800 saddle pack than a 4000mah single 2 cell that I used over the front axle at first.

If I used 2 2s batteries of that capacity I would have double the weight on the springs..Not that its super super heavy but you want to keep it as light as possible.

Weight is better used below the chassis or whats known as un sprung weight.

Ill explain that in the section.

[CBR74]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

What is it you did to gain more travel without changing shocks?

Only thing i can think of maybe is a rear truss that mounts a lot lower in the center and if it had extended bracing like the stock one it would have to be a lot lower as well. or none at all.

But i found the stock truss to hit in 2 places ..The top and the extended bracing...So that was what i come up with to solve that issue without buying parts.

I didn't do anything. I simply do not see the need to increase vertical travel because I've yet to see a situation where the rear suspension is compressed to its limit on both sides at once though I guess it could happen if you fell tail first into a crevasse. I disagree with your solution because I do not believe there is a problem to be solved by it.

[winnerone23]

Ill have to agree with CBR here.

I run a limiting strap from the center of the axle to the center of the crossbrace above it. Its bout half the shock travel.

I still get full articulation and since both shocks Never compress at the same time, up travel isn't a issue.
I thought the same thing when I started tho, even with the servo squeezing up in the front..

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by CBR74

I didn't do anything. I simply do not see the need to increase vertical travel because I've yet to see a situation where the rear suspension is compressed to its limit on both sides at once though I guess it could happen if you fell tail first into a crevasse. I disagree with your solution because I do not believe there is a problem to be solved by it.

I can see your view on that...Its most definitely not a situation where both sides are equally compressed often but it does happen..It was something I experienced though more than once so I decided to resolve what I considered a problem for myself maybe others.

The front was done for some of the same issue as the rear was..In the front when the servo horn gets slammed into the brace when the front is evenly compressed my thoughts are that's not very good for the servo..But more downward travel is given with the change as well as better strength for the end of the chassis rails having moved the brace forward to solve the issue...I see this a 2 benefits in one mod.

Its not a change one would consider a regret for doing on either end.

Id rather my shocks absorb impact when it does happen rather than slam my rear axle into the brace maybe cracking the case or in the front breaking a servo....The farther spaced out bracing again a benefit to the chassis strength on the rear.

But like I say I see where it may not happen often like you say and can accept that..But it does happen and It will happen to others...It happened enough for me that I made the change...So maybe some can decide if its right for them or not to make those changes.

I personally did it more so to gain the travel..but if some feels it doesn't help them with that then maybe do it for the fact you have a stronger chassis...Either way it has a benefit.

[Calderwood]

The bottoming issue really comes down to how you use the truck. My scx10 or my hilux never see both shocks on an axle fully compressed at the same time. My wraith on the other hand often sees all four shocks bottomed out at the same time when landing from a jump. My other scalers never see that situation.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Calderwood

The bottoming issue really comes down to how you use the truck. My scx10 or my hilux never see both shocks on an axle fully compressed at the same time. My wraith on the other hand often sees all four shocks bottomed out at the same time when landing from a jump. My other scalers never see that situation.

Most of my situations were dropping issues off an obstacle. not always by choice.

[6sharky9]

Ive got some marks on my brace where the servo horn up front was hitting it pretty hard....just going down a hill with any sort of speed will compress your front end evenly once you hit bottom as all the weight is on the front....Ive gone down one hill to try to get enough speed to go up another before..so once the front starts going up the rear then gets forced down evenly...Also I may drive myself off a rock by mistake and its taken some hard hits landing flat sometime...My truck is evenly balance so it doesn't go nose first or tail first per say but determines the angle I was on before the drop...Its rare I land and it just compresses one side.

[Richterat83]

Just gave the thread a read. Lots of good info!

Just curious if you consider adding parts from a kit parts tree to the driveshafts? Should help prevent the driveshafts from collapsing under high torque.

It's another free DIY upgrade

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Richterat83

Just gave the thread a read. Lots of good info!

Just curious if you consider adding parts from a kit parts tree to the driveshafts? Should help prevent the driveshafts from collapsing under high torque.

It's another free DIY upgrade

I am considering that..i haven't yet trying to see if I can break them but so far I haven't..Its the parts tree with the 3 link arm on it..It fits pretty snug.

have read that mod can help stock driveshafts survive some 3s power..not in all cases but I can see how it would strengthen the hollow driveshafts...Some have used steel bolts and even tubing inside them.

The free way is to use the parts tree though..

[6sharky9]

This post was moved to another post in the tips and tricks sections.

[Biomedchad]

Sxc10 noob here! I've tore my slash 4x4 up n down and changed countless parts but crawling is new to me. I have the rtr jeep wrangler rubicon coming. Looking at this thread the gearing combo is a question. I have searched various places and cannot find any t gears great then 15-14. The suggested 16t cannot be found. If I plan on trail walking and driving along, what gear should I be looking for?

Also, the aluminum parts recommended are also difficult for me to find. I found some at amainhobbies. Do you have any links for parts that users recommend? Should I use parts that come with the kit? Thanksr

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Biomedchad

Sxc10 noob here! I've tore my slash 4x4 up n down and changed countless parts but crawling is new to me. I have the rtr jeep wrangler rubicon coming. Looking at this thread the gearing combo is a question. I have searched various places and cannot find any t gears great then 15-14. The suggested 16t cannot be found. If I plan on trail walking and driving along, what gear should I be looking for?

Also, the aluminum parts recommended are also difficult for me to find. I found some at amainhobbies. Do you have any links for parts that users recommend? Should I use parts that come with the kit? Thanksr

many places carry 16T pinions..Its not an uncommon size.

I still recommend the 16T pinion with the stock or even a better 27T motor.

It will give you a good combination of speed and improved low rpm control.

I purchase most everything off ebay so its easy to search the part.

Type in 16 tooth pinion and you will find one..i promise.

You will want to change the suspension links as they are plastic on the rtr and don't give any support to the axles under power very well...A lot make home made links but you can find links just about anyplace as well..Only buy a set that describes the links as being for the Honcho or the rubicon or "Long wheel base" as they have a larger wheel base and use longer links than the standard kits you see more of advertised for sale. (Dingo)

The steering links are also a must to change..youll see why when you get your kit...lol

To get you started this is what I recommend for a great start.

1.)Aluminum suspension links
2.)Aluminum steering links
3.) bearing upgrade for the stock servo or a decent replacement upgrade such as a Hitec HS645MG
4.) 16T motor pinion
5.) 2S lipo power
6.) Deans battery plug
7.) remove the rubber stoppers on the shock shafts
8.) Install the top of the shocks to the holes leaning them in the direction of the transmission front and rear.
9.) consider a 4 link conversion over the stock 3 link up front as its very weak and pulls apart as well in some cases...will require additional links and hardware to install...the 4 link truss comes in the spare parts bag.
10.) Tighten your slipper clutch tight so it doesn't slip...(This can increase the risk of breaking something in the drivetrain but it gives you maximum power to the wheels)

This covers the main weak points and some improved set-up that will get you going reliably...If you find you are breaking other items then upgrade as needed to solve the issue.

[Biomedchad]

Cool thanks. I found the axial kit that includes everything to upgrade steering and suspension links.

[Biomedchad]

I have a 16 t pinion gear for my slash. Reckon that would fit. Same shaft size? Don't have the rubicon til Friday. Trying to get a jump.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Biomedchad

I have a 16 t pinion gear for my slash. Reckon that would fit. Same shaft size? Don't have the rubicon til Friday. Trying to get a jump.

I think its a 3mm shaft...im thinking it will work..thats pretty much a standard size for 540 motors if im not mistaken.

[Louisbaby]

Originally Posted by Biomedchad

I have a 16 t pinion gear for my slash. Reckon that would fit. Same shaft size? Don't have the rubicon til Friday. Trying to get a jump.

Just check the pitch.

[Biomedchad]

16t. 32 pitch? Am i in business with this one ?

[Louisbaby]

Originally Posted by Biomedchad

16t. 32 pitch? Am i in business with this one ?

If I'm not mistaken, the stock pitch it 48

[6sharky9]

Yea..sorry..Should've been more informative..the stock gears are 48P