Stock SCX10 Performance Tech.

[OSRC]

I've been pointing some noobs on other forums to your basic SCX write-up, and it's been very well received. Yes, it's been covered here in the past, but not in a single thread (and the search function doesn't work right) and it's VERY refreshing to see a basic write up that's not just bolting on $$ parts and calling it a build. Lots of new guys just want to learn and tinker, and this is a great way for them to do so. Then later, if they want to start banging away on upgrades, they can.

Well done.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by OSRC

I've been pointing some noobs on other forums to your basic SCX write-up, and it's been very well received. Yes, it's been covered here in the past, but not in a single thread (and the search function doesn't work right) and it's VERY refreshing to see a basic write up that's not just bolting on $$ parts and calling it a build. Lots of new guys just want to learn and tinker, and this is a great way for them to do so. Then later, if they want to start banging away on upgrades, they can.

Well done.

Ty..Thats who this is for...People who want to learn basics with some tips and tricks thrown in..Its nothing some haven't already done or wont do again..I just added my 2 cents and experience..Most experiences will be different but I take pride in the old school fashion in which I learned rc and other things in life and I wouldn't change a thing.

[1tonscout]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

many places carry 16T pinions..Its not an uncommon size.

I still recommend the 16T pinion with the stock or even a better 27T motor.

It will give you a good combination of speed and improved low rpm control.

I purchase most everything off ebay so its easy to search the part.

Type in 16 tooth pinion and you will find one..i promise.

You will want to change the suspension links as they are plastic on the rtr and don't give any support to the axles under power very well...A lot make home made links but you can find links just about anyplace as well..Only buy a set that describes the links as being for the Honcho or the rubicon or "Long wheel base" as they have a larger wheel base and use longer links than the standard kits you see more of advertised for sale. (Dingo)

The steering links are also a must to change..youll see why when you get your kit...lol

To get you started this is what I recommend for a great start.

1.)Aluminum suspension links
2.)Aluminum steering links
3.) bearing upgrade for the stock servo or a decent replacement upgrade such as a Hitec HS645MG
4.) 16T motor pinion
5.) 2S lipo power
6.) Deans battery plug
7.) remove the rubber stoppers on the shock shafts
8.) Install the top of the shocks to the holes leaning them in the direction of the transmission front and rear.
9.) consider a 4 link conversion over the stock 3 link up front as its very weak and pulls apart as well in some cases...will require additional links and hardware to install...the 4 link truss comes in the spare parts bag.
10.) Tighten your slipper clutch tight so it doesn't slip...(This can increase the risk of breaking something in the drivetrain but it gives you maximum power to the wheels)

This covers the main weak points and some improved set-up that will get you going reliably...If you find you are breaking other items then upgrade as needed to solve the issue.

Verry good information Shark! Although I would mention to stay away from aluminum links especially the ones that have pressed in rod ends. Those always fail almost immediatly. A better setup is the DIY brake line/ threaded rod links with traxxas rod ends

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by 1tonscout

Verry good information Shark! Although I would mention to stay away from aluminum links especially the ones that have pressed in rod ends. Those always fail almost immediatly. A better setup is the DIY brake line/ threaded rod links with traxxas rod ends

What brand makes pressed on ends?...haven't seen those to be honest with you...Ive seen the one piece that I wouldn't recommend though as when they wear out you throw them out basicly.

I made my links form 8-32 steel all thread with 1/4 aluminum tubing as sleeves and traxxas revo ends. Im wishing I had used a more thick tubing though as they bend/dent pretty easily...some don't have tools to make them though so some will have to buy links..Used Axial links are pretty affordable if you can find the right lengths...I would suppose the heavier your rig is the easier it would be to bend links as you slam down on a rock something so stronger links could be warranted...steel/titanium depending on budget

[T I N Y]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

What brand makes pressed on ends?...haven't seen those to be honest with you...Ive seen the one piece that I wouldn't recommend though as when they wear out you throw them out basicly.

I think he means the ones like top cad, and integy that are one piece and have a pressed in insert with the ball ends in it.

[Biomedchad]

Thanks. Gonna order 16t 48 p traxxas pinion gear.

[OH6HEMI]

I went to a 15t Robinson 48P pinion and it has a lot of torque but not enough wheel speed for me. So I moved back up to a 17t Robinson 48P haven't got to try it out yet though!

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by OH6HEMI

I went to a 15t Robinson 48P pinion and it has a lot of torque but not enough wheel speed for me. So I moved back up to a 17t Robinson 48P haven't got to try it out yet though!

Yea..i tried a 14T and it took away too much wheel speed needed for climbing tough hills or to help get over obstacle you need wheel speed with ..I personally found the 16T to be a good compromise between the 2 with the 27T motor im using..Gearing will be different with different turn motors in general or stronger batteries.

Not a bad thing to have a few gears with you out on the play ground..if you just want to crawl you can gear down..if you want to mud or climb hills then re gear again...I like the 16T..seems to do everything well enough on my set up as a compromise

[OH6HEMI]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Yea..i tried a 14T and it took away too much wheel speed needed for climbing tough hills or to help get over obstacle you need wheel speed with ..I personally found the 16T to be a good compromise between the 2 with the 27T motor im using..Gearing will be different with different turn motors in general or stronger batteries.



Not a bad thing to have a few gears with you out on the play ground..if you just want to crawl you can gear down..if you want to mud or climb hills then re gear again...I like the 16T..seems to do everything well enough on my set up as a compromise

Yeah we were in some really deep ruts we made at the creek I crawl at and just wasn't enough wheel speed in the mud with my 35t. I was wondering too I know everyone's been on your A$$ about running 2s I run a 2s pack too but have you tried 3s yet? I'm sure you're tired of talking about it though!
That stuff it nasty!

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by OH6HEMI

Yeah we were in some really deep ruts we made at the creek I crawl at and just wasn't enough wheel speed in the mud with my 35t. I was wondering too I know everyone's been on your A$$ about running 2s I run a 2s pack too but have you tried 3s yet? I'm sure you're tired of talking about it though!
That stuff it nasty!

I have not used a 3s for reasons..but I can say what ive learned is you will get the wheel speed of a 27T on a 2s with a 3s using a 35T geared properly..im just personally not going to be more concerned about breaking something.

you will gain more though than just wheel speed..you will get from ive read a lot better low end control as well as more run times in general with with a 3s.

basicly someone with a 3000mah 3s may get well over an hour run time..where I just barely broke 1 hour using a 4000mah 2s I used...So its got benefits to running 3s..just not without needing to invest more to be safe from breaking driveline parts.

Unfortunately for some they cant afford that so I recommend a 2s..Not saying you cant break using a 2s but chances are less likely and to be honest with you I personally have not experienced a 2s not being sufficient enough to do what I see rigs on 3s do...I may not win sled pull contest or a tug a war but I don't care.

[6sharky9]

Not saying your 35T is a bad decision but maybe try a quality 27T and see what I mean by wheel speed...Also, let me know if you do ;if there was anything you couldn't do with a 27T and a 2s you could do with the 35T on a 3s if you try one..

35T is better suited to a 3s if you want wheel speed and the added low end control..cant have both with a 35T on a 2s

A quality 27T on a 2s with proper gearing is pretty similar I would think...speed and control...works for me anyway.

I have a lot more wheel speed than you have with a 27T on a 2s

If you want similar wheel speed you need a 3s with your 35T

Its not expensive for a 3s at all..can buy a brand new one for less than 20 dollars...get one and see...you may love it..just be prepared to make upgrades should it cause you to break things you were less likely to break on 2s power.

Im not against a 3s i just don't think its for everyone.

[HyperMark]

A year ago I was still running 7.2v NmH in both of my comp rigs.
I competed for 3 years wiith them, I had to upgrade to stay competitive.
Now I'm running a HH 35T on 3s in my 2.2 AX10,
and a HH 27T on 2s in my 1.9 SCX10.
The AX10 is much faster and more powerful.

The AX10 has MIP drive shafts and metal transmission gears, I shredded the stock idler gear a few comps after the change from 7.2vNmH.
The 2s was too much for the stock Axial drive shafts in the SCX10(the old type, I've had it for a few years).
Blew out 4 front universals in the last 2 comps.
But that might have been because of the change from the stock tin can to the Holmes Hobbies 27T handwound.
So I ordered MIPs for that today. I think I'll be running 3s before the end of the year.
I'll have to see how I do in the first few comps of the year.
I just need to buy another set of Jazrider gears now.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by HyperMark

A year ago I was still running 7.2v NmH in both of my comp rigs.
I competed for 3 years wiith them, I had to upgrade to stay competitive.
Now I'm running a HH 35T on 3s in my 2.2 AX10,
and a HH 27T on 2s in my 1.9 SCX10.
The AX10 is much faster and more powerful.

The AX10 has MIP drive shafts and metal transmission gears, I shredded the stock idler gear a few comps after the change from 7.2vNmH.
The 2s was too much for the stock Axial drive shafts in the SCX10(the old type, I've had it for a few years).
Blew out 4 front universals in the last 2 comps.
But that might have been because of the change from the stock tin can to the Holmes Hobbies 27T handwound.
So I ordered MIPs for that today. I think I'll be running 3s before the end of the year.
I'll have to see how I do in the first few comps of the year.
I just need to buy another set of Jazrider gears now.

I can recall when racing an Associated T4 before the lipos even come out.

Once they did and people started using them I noticed I could no longer keep up in the straights but still denied wanting to use one...Well once I started doing research on them and learned more about them I found the discharge rate was far superior and didn't fall off near as fast as a Nimh battery did..Meaning I had more voltage for a much longer period of time giving a much higher average of power throughout the race..Well its been history and ive used a lipo ever since..Its always a good thing to research something before just jumping into it..Some burned up ESC,s and had lipo fires because they didn't know about you cant run a lipo down in voltage like you can a NiMh...so many had bad experiences for not doing the homework first.

My research ive done on 3s vs 2s has stopped me from wanting to use a 3s only because ive learned it can be more costly to do so..Not saying I cant upgrade and use one..i just haven't felt ive needed to to do what I do with my truck...Plenty aware of the benefits but also the down sides for someone with a stock scx10 drivetrain,..You can always set the slipper to slip but then you cant take advantage of the power so it makes no sense to me to add more power I cant use.

My slipper is tightened up all the way and still have no breaking issues...Im not sure I would be that lucky with more power without upgrades

[Louisbaby]

I'm running a Hobbywing Juststock 21.5 brushless with a 20 tooth pinion and 87 tooth spur on a 2s 5000 mah LIPO. She runs great, but I want to try a 17 tooth pinion for finer slow control.

[pickled]

Great guide!

I'm about to order a Dingo kit as my first crawler/scaler and your tips and tricks are an excellent source of information.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by Louisbaby

I'm running a Hobbywing Juststock 21.5 brushless with a 20 tooth pinion and 87 tooth spur on a 2s 5000 mah LIPO. She runs great, but I want to try a 17 tooth pinion for finer slow control.

It makes a big difference..If you feel you have plenty of wheel speed already then its not a bad trade off to gear for better low end control...Its not that you make more torque per say but youre basicly shifting the torque curve in favor of lower rpm duty.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by pickled

Great guide!

I'm about to order a Dingo kit as my first crawler/scaler and your tips and tricks are an excellent source of information.

Thank you...Most of it has come from reading this site and learning this style of rc fun and my experience in rc in general....If I can help you with anything just ask..will do the best I can.

[hellbounder]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

What brand makes pressed on ends?...haven't seen those to be honest with you...Ive seen the one piece that I wouldn't recommend though as when they wear out you throw them out basicly.

I made my links form 8-32 steel all thread with 1/4 aluminum tubing as sleeves and traxxas revo ends. Im wishing I had used a more thick tubing though as they bend/dent pretty easily...some don't have tools to make them though so some will have to buy links..Used Axial links are pretty affordable if you can find the right lengths...I would suppose the heavier your rig is the easier it would be to bend links as you slam down on a rock something so stronger links could be warranted...steel/titanium depending on budget

Are you just threading the tube or running the all thread all the way thru ? I usually run all the way thru , depending on the tube , I may have to run a drill bit thru it to get the all thread in . Some times I'll use jb weld on the threads when I put it in the tube to hold it and seems to make it stronger .

[johnnyh66]

the stainless steel allthread works the best... no bendy.

[pickled]

this should be a sticky